A long time ago - when I were a mere nipper - I bought a Crosman Medalist II Model 1300 in .22 cal. Recently, I've become interested in playin' with all of my old "toys".
The thing is, the Crosman no longer holds pressure. After a quick surf of the 'net, I came across an exploded diagram of the 1322 which, I assume, is similar to the 1300. In any case, while some of it seemed to make sense, I really don't understand how the air is pressurised and how the hammer mechanism works.
So, my questions are:
(a) Can someone point me to an exploded diagram of a 1300 and explain how it all works?
(b) Can anyone tell me how to make the trigger light enough that I can actually *hit* what I'm aiming at? (I seem to remember that later models had a manually cocked hammer. Moral: *never* buy version "one" of anything...)
P.S. My current collection of air guns comprise: Webley Mk III rifle, Original Model 5 pistol, Webley Hurricane (I *think*) pistol and the Crosman Medalist II Model 1300 pistol, all in .22 cal, all bought brand new. Only the two Webleys are still working; the Original and Crosman are, at present, "dead".
The 1322 functions by means of a manually cocked hammer that strikes a release valve, similar to the one in the 150 CO2 pistol, as well as the Sheridan and Benjamin airguns. The 1300 employs a self-cocking blow-off valve system, similar to the one in the 1400 Pumpmaster rifle. I have always loved my Sears/Crosman 1400 w/scope from the 1966 Christmas catalog. (And, yes, Sears was selling the 1400 well before Crosman released it under their own name. Sears has historically gotten major manufacturers to give them temporary exclusives to new products.)
> The 1322 functions by means of
> a manually cocked hammer
> The 1300 employs a self-cocking
> blow-off valve system
You mentioning the manually cocked hammer made me realise that it shouldn't matter *how* the hammer is cocked unless it's via a double-action trigger. I'd always thought that it was the automatic cocking of the gun that resulted in such a heavy trigger.
So, d'you think that this means that there is some way of "fixing" my trigger mechanism in order to make it a bit more "user friendly"? Does the 1322 have an inordinately heavy trigger?
> Try contacting:
Thanks for that infomation.
> I expect Mike can get your 1300
> up and running.
I certainly hope so. As I think I said in my initial post, I've only *recently* become keen to "play" with m'toys again. Since it's a *loooong* time since I bought myself a pure *toy* (as opposed to something that I needed to do a job), I thought it'd buy myself a CO2 pistol.
After surfin' the Internet for user reviews, I'd discarded - for *now* - the BB blow-back (inaccurate) and double-action pellet (heavy triggers) guns and decided to get a replica S&W 586 revolver.
However, I was *just* too late in making my mind up; came the first of October and the UK gun law changed: shops can no longer send air guns though the post. All sales have to be "face-to-face" and, of *course*, I seem to live in an area with a marked lack of "serious" airgun emporiums. Damn. (Also, unaccountably, the prices seem to have gone up...)
The "automatic" cocking of a blow off design has little to do with the trigger pull since there is a spring which simply pushes the valve "cap" back into place allowing the sear to reset. However, most blow off designs (including I think your pistol) load the sear with the pressure from the valve cap. Higher pressure (more pumps) equals more load on the sear and a heavier trigger pull. You should be able to sense the difference between three (lighter) and eight (heavier) pumps. The actual weight of the trigger pull is dependent on the friction in the linkage and amount of sear engagement and can vary between guns. Some have the ability to adjust the sear engagement, but your pistol does not as stock.
A manually cocked air gun has the sear holding back a spring loaded "hammer" which impacts a valve releasing air. Since the spring tension is the same each time, the trigger pull does not vary.
I spent most of my early years with an Crosman 140 with the same "automatic" cocking as your pistol (and I had one of those as well -- long lost). I never felt any issue with the trigger as it was about the same as a later Benjamin with its hammer type valve. I'd suggest simply enjoying the 1322.
> Higher pressure (more pumps)
> equals more load on the sear
> and a heavier trigger pull.
Having read the 1300 "manuals" that I downloaded from the 'net, I've come to the conclusion that - in my youthful enthusiasm - I was too power hungry and had, indeed, been pumping the gun *way* too high. If - and I do stress the word "if" - I remember correctly, I was usually trying to use it with over a dozen pumps. I note that the Owner's Manual merely states that six pumps should be enough for shooting at twenty feet or whatever the cited distance was.
I also note that it states that a service manual was available. It appears that *this* is what I really need.
P.S. I still don't understand how all that gubbings works, by the way.