I know for the most part we dont deal with very many types of Daisy's on this forum,but i see so many post asking for help on repairig these pistols [Mod.200]as they are noted leakers and the seals are just about impossible to come by, even so it would be nice if some one who has worked on rebuilding these pistols would post their experience with some pictures and instructions.I know that at one time WCSG posted a great article on tearing this pistol down and re-building it, along with some nice pictures but the files were on his old computer and lost to the ages.
Sometimes silence is golden,sometimes it's not.
This message has been edited by oldwizzer on Dec 26, 2007 3:17 PM
Hey, got the old computer back to life. Two virgin sheep sacrifices always do the trick. This is a cut and past. I still have not tried it. But, I've been told it works. Good luck.
Daisy recently gave me a schematic but they do not have parts. I have been down every road to attempt to get my 3) 200's (a childhood favorite) up and running again. I have found hope, but have not attempted repair as yet. Daisy turned me onto a fellow in Michigan who had bought up the remaining parts - he is out of them. However, he walked me through how to revive the seals if they are not damaged. If they are damaged or cracked, you've got a dust collector. He described the 200/300 internals as the strangest of strange and most complex (for no reason he could come up with). Anyway, you need a small Phillips head screw driver, flat head screw driver, lighter fluid and q-tips. Remove the rear sight, take out the screw before the trigger guard, unscrew rt. grip, take screw out of grip area you just uncovered, take off trigger spring, hold the barrel, hold the grip (make sure your Co2 is out of gas before this next step) pull back on the grip to slide the top off, if you have bb's in the gun they are now rolling around on your floor!, there is a spring in the "lifter" so pull apart guardedly, it does spring out so hold your hand over the upper area to catch it, remove the lifter, at the end of the receiver (near were you load the bb's, there is a round piece with a extension sticking off - this piece is a screw / THE REST OF THIS IS UNTRIED BY ME - ONLY IN THE INSTRUCTIONS HE GAVE ME/ unscrew this piece, there is a series of seals, the white one is as fragile as a potato chip and if it is chipped or broken YOU'RE Done. Boy was that a run on sentence or what? Now the gun is apart, clean everything with the lighter fluid. Lighter fluid has high evaporation, with slight lubrication properties - 3in 1 oil will EAT your seals! Clean the seals and the chamber, remember, the white disc is VERY FRAGILE. Clean the lifter and the chamber, reassemble the gun.
He said the gun sitting dormant is the worst thing for it - so for it's good health, shoot it often (it could be worse).
I put 40 hours of surfing and phone calls into coming up with this info. If anyone out there has found a solid source for parts for the 200/300 please let me know. My email is firstname.lastname@example.org
Please note the model 1200 that replaced the 200 and looks quite similar has no interchangeable parts. Good luck to all who attempt.
Didn't see any white seal as the article mentions. The 200's inner valve assembly looks much like any other CO2 air pistol with breech seal, piston, and piston seal... but everything looks to be made of hard plastic. Either the rubber stuff has hardened over time, or Daisy successfully used hard plastic in a valve assembly... I don't know.
I'd also be very interested to hear any success stories in rebuilding a 200.
The cutest double-action you will ever see!
The only thing I ever came up with was the fact you could replace the 200's "spike" powerlet piercer with a piercing unit(and seal) from a Daisy Model 1200.I did this mod when 1200 parts were plentiful but I guess no-one has them now?
I DO have the Model 200 Service manual which I can scan for you.It is very useful-let's you know how to use Scotch tape to hold bits together whilst reassembling the gun! Trev
I thought I would put my 2 cents.The 200 has the same internals as the 300.Before I was told parts were not available,I ripped it apart,used rubber seals in place of those hard seals,and she now shoots like a champ.Don't listen to the people who say it can't be done.
I would be very interested to know exactly what you did to reseal your 200. Would you be able to post step by step details? I know a number of people who have tried to repair these pistols with no success. I have a couple that currently do not work but I am reluctant to start repairs until I know what to do, so any help you can give would be much appreciated.
Just goes to show you can't believe every thing you read, i know the mod.200 was to be a trouble free replacement for the mod.100[i don't think so!]I was hoping some one would post on those seals which are impossible to find.In my initial post i recalled that WCSG had worked on one and had a nice breakdown on this model,but it got lost in his old hard drive.i hope he finds time to do another article on this pistol as there are so many are out there in need of repair.
Were looking for knowledge to be shared by members and non members who would like to be able to try and repair the mod.200 on their own., any information you would supply would be appreciated.
Grant,thanks.I'm sure a lot of guys will make good use of the information you provided,you guy's always make an xtra effort to lend a helping hand, its what makes this forum such a great place.
Thanks Trev. It was in with a boxful of bits and pieces i got from Paul Manders ages ago. I have a 1200 here so i guess i should have dismantled it and checked, but as it turns out the piercer will certainly do what you claimed. Its 5 to Midnight now, so Happy New Year 2008!!
Special Tools Needed. A modified pair of Pliers and a strip of rubber or Similar, to get the End Plug Out of the Housing.
The rest is pretty straight Forwards. There was a seal of some sort around the Piercer stem, up inside the Valve, but it had to be picked out in pieces, cause it was perished. The tiny round disc in the Piercer group is a Fine Gauze Filter. All other bits are shown as found.
Ive put mine back together again, cause i havent got time to source seals or make them yet, but if someone manages to get hold of suitable seals to use as replacements, Keep Me in Mind, Lol. We have little down here for any Daisy, so the chances of me finding suitable seals, without making them are very slim.
I just wanted to get an idea of what i was up against. If i can get the right materials locally to make/use as CO2 seals it wont be a problem, but until i can look into it , i thought it would be better back together, before i loose bits or forget where they went. Im not sure where you guys are up to, so maybe im only showing stuff that everyone already knows. Whatever happens, there is only going to be one Person here in Christchurch, N.Z. who is going to have to Seal this One Lol.
I tore into my 200 for reasons bordering on insanity. It has a few differences with Grant's 200 that I thought were interesting.
The box, so as to show the vintage
The shuttle(?) spring, note that mine is wider at the top than Grant's
That seal where the piercing pin goes. I haven't dug it out yet to expose the brass piece as Grant shows, but it's down there.
The main valve component assemblies.
I think you may have some of these deep down inside your gun as well, besides the first seal you show on the exhaust(?) valve, there are two more that have mating radiuses, one thin transparent one and another much longer black one.
From ruralburbian Philomath.
A working 200 seems to be one of the rarest commodities around! Just don't allow any returns! But I've come to hate Daisy since taking up tinkering. Always a pain to fix in my opinion.
You could get rich (ok, maybe not rich) if you came up with a seal solution.
From ruralburbian Philomath.
i was at a neighbors house when he threw a daisy co2 200 in the trash with the comment it's broken. i figured i would have a try at fixing it, if it does not work will it be broker?
the only other air gun i have worked on is a daisy 717. the trigger pulls back on the valve rod releasing the air to send the pellet on it's way.
in the daisy co2 200 gun i can find no link to the valve rod from the trigger it just moves the bb elevator up then lets it drop. since you have a detailed picture of this gun i hope you can clarify this for me.
i have followed nick carters blog to disassemble the gun and i have replaced the odd seal with an o ring. thanks nick. i have no co2 things so i will have to wait until my next trip to town to see if what i have done works.