I need a picture or accurate description of the trigger blade assembly. With the action removed from the gun and the C-clip retained pin removed from the trigger blade assembly. The trigger blade assembly then removed. Mine looks as though a small tab or tang has been broken from the front of this assembly. When assembled this tab should prevent the trigger from flopping forward.
A new piece would be nice but the last one was probably sold 40 years ago. I intend to weld a new tang to this part and then machine it back to spec. just as soon as I can find out what that is. A picture would be wonderful but an accurate description of this tab's size and shape would suffice. I can see where it has broken off just need to know size and shape to repair.
Any help would be appreciated (Matt? Gaines? Anybody?)
Jon F.

I have never attempted to take a FWB apart. I have 2 150's and luckily both work fine but even Paul Watts was looking for parts of fix a 150 and it is hard to imagine a better airgun smith. I have seen 300S trigger asse4mbies come up for sale, albeit rarely but never a 150. They could be interchangeable, I just do not know.

Frank, Jim , Tom and others will know more than I about them.. Good luck.

GB

Searched forever, posted on foreign forums, asked my smith in Germany and many smiths here in the US , even emailed FWB but no parts were available for the 150.
Finally one showed up on a gun someone was parting out.

Sold the rifle awhile back so am unable to get you pics of one undamaged.

If you can repair what you have you are ahead of the game.

"Love them Walthers"
Hell I love them ALL

Tom Strayhorn
Catawissa Missouri

I know that he has done work on 150 triggers.

Tom, for his advice to fix what I have. I figured if Tom couldn't find any parts with all his connections then I would have no chance.(Tom,I bought an eye cup from you at Roanoke last weekend.) This was not that difficult a fix. (I say that because the welds came out right the first time. Which, with parts this small you usually only get one try.)

If anyone wants to attempt this fix, here's how it was done. I used a standard MIG welder with .023 alloy steel wire. The tab was milled (1.5 mm thickness) and notched on a larger piece of quench hardenable steel. Leave it attached to the bar to dissipate the heat when welded. Remove all the pieces from the trigger blade assembly leaving just the piece to be welded. Relieve the joint to be filled when welded. Clamp the pieces to the welding bench or a large steel plate(again, to help dissipate the heat). Cover all areas not to be welded with fiberglass tape or other protective material. This is very important as the tiny pin holes must not be damaged.I welded the inside first (tack) then the outside and filled the relief. While it was still red hot from welding, I quenched it to make it hard.(This inadvertently made it so all finishing had to be done with a Dremel or similar type miniature grinder.)

When grinding to fit, inside and outside profiles must be perfect and flush. There is room to make the tab a little taller to add strength (about 1.0 mm extra). And lastly, when grinding the upper notch,(where the tab engages the cross pin to act as a stop) Proceed very slowly, removing only a few thousandths of an inch at a time and checking the fit frequently. This surface controls the return position of the trigger and should be positioned such that when the cocking lever is opened the anti-beartrap pawl just clears the trigger blade notch to lock the trigger against accidental discharge when cocking. The difference between getting this right and having excess trigger slop is about 5 thousandths of an inch. I got it right the first try, better to be lucky than good. I am very satisfied with the repair. It both looks and works as good as new.

All of this was made possible with the plan of the Feinwerkbau 150 which I enlarged and added to my print file, thank you. Jon F.

That had to be a very delicate job mig welding thet tiny piece of metal. If I ever have another show up broken I will know who to get a hold of.

The 150 is my favorite of all the recoiless FWB offerings.

"Love them Walthers"
Hell I love them ALL

Tom Strayhorn
Catawissa Missouri

For those of you that don't know, this rifle has been nothing but a pain in the a** since the day she arrived here. I had wanted an FWB 150 for a while and when a Tyrolean stocked version presented itself I seized the opportunity. When she got here everything seemed alright. After test firing about a hundred shots (all the while looking at the gun and trying to decide if I wanted to try to re-finish the stock which I suspected was a beautiful walnut under 40 odd years of "patina"). When I went to lay the rifle down after shooting, the stock snapped clean in half at the wrist. Problem solved, clearly a re finish was needed. A week of stock repair, glue, 3 inch wood screw, sand paper, linseed and Tung oil, 0000 steel wool; beautiful, as suspected.

Now the trigger, it always flopped forward which I didn't think was right but the only thing I have to compare it to is my FWB 300. I had read that the trigger mechanisms for these two are different but to what extent was not explained in detail. I took it apart and discovered that the trigger only worked with the action in the stock(the trigger guard was acting as a stop and allowing the sear to catch, barely). That's when careful inspection showed maybe a tab was missing, maybe.

More experimentation showed that if the trigger sear didn't latch properly the cocking lever would slam forward and chop off a chunk of the stock, which was absolutely no F***ing problem for the master stock repairman that I had become last week. Did I say SLAM? Now here's the happy ending; honestly, to look at this rifle, it's beautiful. Visually, there is no indication that it was ever broken and functionally it fires perfectly at around 600-630 FPS. I just hope she is done breaking my........heart. Jon F.

Sounds like you have great skills and your post will be encouraging to others.

GB

is what it was meant to be. These old guns and the lack of available parts coupled with their age and long service can be challenging. Their beauty and build quality will never be seen again and they are worth the time and effort to repair and restore.

I am relatively new to the internet but not to airguns. I will post pictures as soon as I have time to figure out how to. (Probably need help from the wife and kids.) Jon F.

Jon. I also purchased a FWB 150 Tyro 2 years ago and had similar problems. Very fragile trigger. Do you plan to fix other's guns? If so let me know.

duplicating this repair for others as a service to the community. Let's wait until I post the pictures of this repair so you can see the results. I think it looks great, but I may be biased.

I wouldn't say the mechanism is exactly fragile. I think the problem occurs when the action is removed from the stock. That exposes the trigger blade(which on the 150 is made of formed steel and quite strong) allowing any bump or bang to strike the protruding trigger blade and thus breaking off the stop tang.

I think an easy solution to this(at least when shipping the gun disassembled) would be to remove the trigger blade assembly by just removing the C-clip and pivot pin. Easy installation and no springs or ball bearings fly out when this is removed, as long as cocking the gun is not attempted with this assembly removed. On the other hand, some may not be comfortable with this level of dis-assembly. Jon F.

The trigger requires special attention whenever this (and the later FWB300) is shipped. My Once the action is removed from the stock, I've found (so far) removing the trigger guard from the stock and using that as a shield for the trigger bar/shoe assembly has proven (so far) a reasonable method to prevent breakage.

with the text of this thread. I finally got around to getting some help with the whole photo thing. These first ones are of the trigger weld repair with the screwdriver pointing to the critical upper ground surface that determines the trigger backlash.

Jon, that trigger repair looks great. Maybe we can meet in Roanoke next year and discuss. My talent is not in a repair like this. Nice to know someone has that talent! Good job! What a great forum to help others solve such problems.Thanks.

the stock,(repaired) and the whole rifle re-assembled. These next pictures are of the break in the stock. It was broken clean in two right along the lines shown.(I have marked the break with a piece of yarn.) Sorry, I do not have any actual photos of the stock broken in two, but at the time, I was not much in the mood to take photos of what had just happened.





Next are pictures of the stock repaired, right and left sides, full view and closeups of the repaired area.(It is worth noting at this point that although the crack is jagged and circumnavigates the entire wrist of the rifle, a large portion of it follows the lines and contours of the checkering which conceals it almost completely.










This is the 3 inch brass wood screw countersunk into the inlet area to strengthen the wrist.



Lastly, the completely repaired and refinished rifle. Including the fore stock weight, freshly repainted with hammer finish paint.





Hopefully this will encourage others to press on with their projects and repairs. Jon F.

Looks super,no hint of repair I can see.
I was hoping to do the same with a bluing touchup job on a RWS75.
I gave up and put my rifle away.
I just cant get it right and it keeps frustrating me(not the exact words!).
I will dig it out and continue to work on it.
Thanks for the inspiration