Hi. I just received a rocker saftey 'dan with a little bit of separation just forward of the rear sight. My plan is to remove said sight eliminating that pressure and install a peep, which the gun is drilled for. The small separation condition was disclosed, and I think the price reflected that, however it appears there was much more separation at one time and it has been roughly repaired, either with an epoxy or a very ugly solder job. I guess I would like to smooth this up a little. That effort will tell if it is solder or glue. Any suggestions here?? Also, anyone know what these were painted with? This one was definitely touched up after the "repair", as there is a prominent paint drip on coming from the breech. Bought a pig in a poke this time, but not enough money to be too upset about. Thankyou all, tomas in san diego

Since posting, I removed the rear sight and installed a peep that was waiting in the wings; this gun shoots hard and seems accurate so far w/ jsb diablo match. I like it, but hope I can rectify the cosmetics between the barrel and tube. Then a stock refinish and this will be a nice one, tk

I don't believe any of them were painted originally. It was supposed to be a chemical process. Reattaching the barrel (re-soldering) would destroy the finish and then you just paint the gun and try not to think about what you just did.

Hi, I have done a few of these, !
It needs the barrel to be taken off & cleaned up & Re-soldered ,
Here is a Sheridan (converted to PCP because the inlet valve was damaged ) With a .22 calibre " Setra " Barrel.

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It is of course capable of outputs Sheridan never dreamed of ! Its .22 & 2000Psi & Makes !!! Better not say as I live in the UK, ?
Its regulated to 12 Fpe by the hammer spring.

Back to the barrel & Solder !
Solder is generally 60% lead & 40% Tin, Lead melts at 327C & Tin at 232c,

The reason this is important is that Solder is an amalgam of the 2, Melting temp is ( Well you work it out ) Ha ha,

The valve body in the Sheridan is soldered in,Its crimped to hold it but Care has to be taken not to melt this & let the solder run in to the Inlet valve threads ?
I do this by standing the action in a " Particular " position & using Tin ( Which has a lower melting temperature than solder at 232C ) Hence less heat input.
Hope this helps, Ged.

not just the solder of the barrel can loosen the internal solder holding in the compression chamber, but you have to take out all of the valve components before applying heat or you end up with a gooey mess thats hard to clean out

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