there is a great film about folks like woody brown, rabbit kekai, fred van dyke, etc. it focuses on surfing as a "clean livin'" perspective on aging i believe it is done by david brown. (im not sure if there is a connection to bruce or not. check it out.
Dr. Paskowitz lives in Hawaii. He practiced medicine and fixed surfboards in Honolulu and raised six children, surfed the world and writes what he lives. I always remember this tidbit. Never eat anything with more than 6% fat in it. Doc Paskowitz's book is something that every surfer who wants to live and surf long should read.
If anyone is interested I can get you Doctor Paskowitz's address. I very highly recommmend his book as a MUST read.
