Do you sense the souls the manna of those surfers who have gone before you? We are an ancient tribe... when Rome thought it had conquered the known world in the most remote part of the earth, alone in Hawaii... our tribe surfed... rome fell... but our tribe rises every morning still to surf we speak our own language, we sing our own songs, deep in every surfers psyches the ancient hawaiian chant still sounds
- Bear Woznick (tandem surfer, waterman, pirate)
Came across this passage this am
Ryan
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