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"West of Jesus-Surfing, Science, and the Origins of Belief by Steven Kotler"

September 7 2007 at 1:06 AM
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Magilla Schaus  (Login MagillaSchaus)
ESA - GREAT LAKES DISTRICT CO-DIRECTOR
from IP address 64.12.117.7






"West of Jesus" peals the onion right down to the molecule. Kotler might not surf like Slater, Irons and Fanning but he writes with the authority of Stephen Hawking, Richard Feynman, and with the adventure of Jack Kerouac and Earnest Hemingway. Straight up the writing is advanced and fascinating. This is not the pap that we usually encounter when a writer shows up without a clue at the beach. Kotler is a surfer and a professional heavy weight writer. If you want to learn something than you read a book like this because it does more than entertain but enlightens.

I'm not going to give away the story but it has a strong beginning, middle, and end. Concepts that are introduced are mined and explored and than concluded with the finesse of a perfectly landed airial. The ride goes on and advances as does the chapters. This author is exceptionally well read and has strong and compelling material like Jaws has water. A drop of water might seam ordinary and ephemeral and a static commonality but as an inquisitive surfer/writer finds out there is a heritage of belief in the riding of waves. Kotler quotes Rabbi Nachum Shifren, "I don't take anyone seriously who doesn't surf." Likewise we can't take writers of surfing seriously who don't surf. The book is all that with suffering and pain that might be comparable to Adriana de Sousa at El Gringo getting the porcupine treatment from a group of sea urchins or being blind sided by life. The human condition is amazing in what it can do to us and what we as thinking beings can learn in the process of searching for answers. There will be lots of surprises for the average reader and satisfaction for those with more literary mileage. One must be patient and curious to reach the summit of a lofty peak but this is not to imply my journey through the pages was either tedious or boring. On the contrary I spent many entertaining and engaging hours turning the pages. The experience is unifying


Ingmar Bergman said about writing that, "by and large, however, art is free, shameless, irresponsible and, as I said, the movement is intense, almost feverish; it resembles, it seems to me, a snakeskin full of ants. The snake itself is long since dead, eaten out from within, deprived of its poison; but the skin moves, filled with busy life."

As for myself I find that surfing can be that same long silent snake but the skin always keeps twitching as all energy is always dynamic. "West of Jesus" is writing that has become more than art and mystery and science but the glue that holds our universe together. Read this book if you can. Zen is perfection. Self advancement comes by paddling one hand in front of the other and exploring the wildness of waves and words.


Literature is like surfing it takes a while to get past the shore break and get outside where the waves break bigger. "West of Jesus" is overhead perfection on that exceptional and unforgettable day that doesn't come along like a planned election commercial or the snack food isle. It tells a good story. Those who seek knowledge will find it and embrace it and understand.


One of the revelations is where Steven Kotler comes from.




    
This message has been edited by MagillaSchaus from IP address 205.188.117.7 on Sep 9, 2007 12:01 AM
This message has been edited by MagillaSchaus from IP address 64.12.117.7 on Sep 7, 2007 1:31 AM
This message has been edited by MagillaSchaus from IP address 64.12.117.7 on Sep 7, 2007 1:12 AM


 
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Adam S
(Login Adam_Szp)
ESA Member
99.243.254.17

Re: "West of Jesus-Surfing, Science, and the Origins of Belief by Steven Kotler"

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September 7 2007, 8:30 PM 

Hey Magilla I read that book well over a year ago. It's a good read and definitely not what I expected it to be..nice review.

 
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M. Schaus
(Login MagillaSchaus)
ESA - GREAT LAKES DISTRICT CO-DIRECTOR
205.188.117.7

Hey Adam thanks.

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September 8 2007, 1:50 AM 

I don't think the review I did does the book justice. For some crazy reason I decided not to read "on The Road" again after I read "West of Jesus." As of recent I became aware that Kerouac was a French Canadian. Instead my next read was a Nobel Prize winner called "Snow." Man the world is crazy mad in "Snow." It has nothing to do with surfing and everything to do with current and past events in Turkey.


"West of Jesus" puts surfing in a new context. I have been to some of the places in this book and felt some strange vibrations when I was there. Now I know why. One is that road that goes from asphalt, to dirt, to lava rock with tire tracks that remind me of the chariot ruts in ancient Roman city streets that I have walked on. There is story that goes under the everyday radar screen and into the cosmic consciousness. Surf and books like Kotlers gets us there.


Have you read "Bone Games - One Man's Search for the Ultimate Athletic High by Rob Schultheis?" It is about pushing the envelope.


I just noticed that I used pealing onion metaphors twice in two different reviews on this forum. Well it was an organic read.


After riding this afternoon in Lake Erie another side of my mind was nourished and tuned back up. West of here today the blessings of Jesus were upon the lakes. Man they went off. I was just drifting back in time and thinking about Paradise a place in Upper Michigan that has shot gun shell, Christmas lights over the bar. Did my one eye see almost 16 feet up there today? You bet!






    
This message has been edited by MagillaSchaus from IP address 205.188.117.7 on Sep 8, 2007 2:05 AM


 
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Adam S
(Login Adam_Szp)
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99.243.254.17

Re: Hey Adam thanks.

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September 8 2007, 1:07 PM 

No, I haven't read Bone Games.

Erie looked like it would have been last night, and I think my homebreak would have offered something. Looks like PC went offshore this morning for DP.

 
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Magilla Schaus
(Login MagillaSchaus)
ESA - GREAT LAKES DISTRICT CO-DIRECTOR
205.188.117.7

I missed it.

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September 8 2007, 2:16 PM 

Thats what I get for watching the Guess Who on a PBS television beg-a-thon while waiting and hoping that the wind would come up in the early morning hours. At about two a.m. I turned off the computer and went to sleep and then the wind came back up.

The PC surfing we had yesterday was decent but not exceptional.


It hit just over a metre at dawn according to the buoy in PC.

I think "Bone Games" was mentioned in "West of Jesus."

Here is a description of, "Bone Games One Man's Search for the Ultimate Athletic High by Rob Schultheis:"

From Publishers Weekly
While hovering near death after a 1964 mountain-climbing accident, the author claims he had a semimystical experience. Seeking similar sensations (although without the pain), Schultheis then went on hikes around the world, ranging from visits to shamans in Nepal to treks up Mexican peaks. He also relates the accounts of others including Charles Lindbergh, John Muir and runner Rick Trujillo who have reported similar feelings attained on adventures and during athletic events. PW praised the book's "disciplined, crafted style that usually keeps the mystical fervor under control."
Copyright 1986 Reed Business Information, Inc


Distributed without profit to ESA Great Lakes members and Great Lakes surfers interested in buying "Bone Games by Rob Schultheis."

It missed it. That's what I originally posted here. I have corrected that at the top of the page to I missed it. This image below is some self deprecating humor playing on my writing error. To error is to be human. To make an error on the InTernet is to be cousin It.

It missed it.



    
This message has been edited by MagillaSchaus from IP address 205.188.117.7 on Sep 10, 2007 1:55 PM
This message has been edited by MagillaSchaus from IP address 205.188.117.7 on Sep 10, 2007 1:54 PM
This message has been edited by MagillaSchaus from IP address 64.12.117.7 on Sep 10, 2007 1:39 AM
This message has been edited by MagillaSchaus from IP address 205.188.117.7 on Sep 9, 2007 1:38 AM
This message has been edited by MagillaSchaus from IP address 205.188.117.7 on Sep 9, 2007 1:36 AM


 
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