Decal Softener ...

'Lo, Peter -

First thing, since this is yr. first time around, practice the following on a scrap plastic part that has been painted w/the same paint you used on the ship model & use an extra decal from the decal sheet you plan to use.

1. Paint / Surface must be shiny smooth for proper decal adhesion. This can be obtained by using gloss (vice "flat") paints, or by coating a flat paint/surface w/a clear gloss finish. Most commonly used product for this nowadays is "Future" Floor Wax (I think it's sold as "Clear" or somesuch Down Under). It's an acrylic Johnson's Wax product & good stuff, & can be brushed or blown on. (Go to the HS "Reference" Section to see an article by Swanny, i believe, on using Future.)

2. Once clear gloss has completely dried, (overnite for my work) apply decal. Cut out the decal as close as possible to the printed area to eliminate any clear backing. This clear backing can cause a ridge in the final finish, and also cause the dreaded "Silvering" effect, whereby minute air particles are trapped under the clear & become very visible on the finished product. Dip decal for several seconds in warm water, let it sit off to the side of your work top in a drop of warm water until the decal starts to move easily on the backing paper. Put a good-sized drop of water on spot where decal will reside. Slide decal off backing paper using a water-wetted small paintbrush, using same to gently push decal to proper position by pushing on decal's edge.

3. Let decal setup / dry for 15 or so mins. If it snugs down naturally, a softener may not be needed. If there are areas where the decal is "lumpy" or hasn't settled completly down over ridges, into recesses, etc., then use a paint brush to apply a drop of the softener over the entire decal (to ensure it settles evenly). Some softeners will affect the decal by causing it to wrinkle up almost immediately. This is not a bad thing. The hard part when this happens it to maintian yr. cool & DO NOT TOUCH the decal. Let it sit, & if things are working as advertised, it will settle/smooth itself down in a couple of hours or so. If there are still slight wrinkles in the decal, apply another drop over same. If it wrinkles up badly & will not smooth itself out on the first application, than the solution used was too strong for this decal & the solution will have to be diluted w/water. If there's a small air bubble or two trapped under the decal (not unusual), take the finest-pointed needle you can acquire & poke each air bubble a couple of times, re-apply the setting solution, and back off again.

4. When the decal has (hopefully) snugged down to the model to your satisifaction, put the model under a box or other dust protector & let the decal dry out for at least 24 hours, maybe more if the monsoon is in season. When fully dried, the decal & possibly the entire surface area, should receive another coat of Future / Clear as a sealant. Again, let this overcoat fully dry out.

5. Apply a flat / or semi-flat / or whatever, final clear coat to yr. model. You're almost finished.

6. Last step: Step back, look upwards, & say, "Thanks Boss, couldn't have done it without You!"

:>)

This is just my take on the subject - Like just about everything in life, there's different ways to approach things.

HtH!
Regards,
Tomt.