Update on Port Engine CoolingSeptember 20 2005 at 11:55 PM
Curt in PDX (Login Commander1)
Response to Raw water pump information
Hi, here is an update on our port engine cooling problem.
But first: Paul, I want to say thanks so much for the good words of advice on this cooling problem you have provided and all your other help too (which has not only been helpful, but has also got us by some really hard spots we were stuck at). You mentioned debris stuck in various parts of the cooling system. Yes, I have been very concerned about the same thing -- that pieces of impeller rubber and other debris could be stuck in the engine oil cooler and/or the transmission oil cooler. Consequently, we recently did a back flush both of those coolers individually with a garden hose (with water at a high 70 psi) and they appeared to flow unrestricted and we got no debris in our catch-bucket. But I was still worried stuff could still be jamed in the passages of those coolers. Additionally, we had the transmission oil cooler off a few weeks ago (when we overhauled the transmission) and the shop checked it out and pressure tested it as OK.
So here is our update as of today: We put the port raw water pump back together after I chiseled out the old lop-sided bearing in the end-plate, and pressed in a new graphite bearing. I also re-surfaced the end-plate on a 6" belt-sander so it is smooth and flat (it had some minor grooving worn into it from the rubber impeller rotation). I lubed everything with silicone grease, stuck the impeller back in and using a new gasket put the pump back together. We then reinstalled it on the port engine and crossed our fingers on both hands as we fired the engine up and waited for it to heat up.
Yahoo! After 30 minutes at 1500 RPM, the expansion tank temperature never exceeded 150 degrees F. Before it was hitting 210 degrees F! So we are thinking that we have fixed the overheating problem on the port engine.
And also today we traced all the wiring on the port engine alternator which was not putting out any charging power before. We found a broken wire, fixed it, and now the alternator is working. On a fast idle the battery voltage goes from 12.6 volts up to 14.4 volts.
I think we are just about FINALLY ready to be able to start the engines, cruise for an hour, and have confidence that we can make it back to the dock under power. We are both very excited!!!!! Gosh, it will sure be good to get out of the bilge and start working above-deck.
1967 fiberglass 38' Chris Craft Commander Sportfisher with twin 427 CID 300 HP engines.