We extend to you a cordial "WELCOME ABOARD !" Come on in, make yourself at home, we are a friendly group of enthusiasts, and we also appreciate the classic Chris Craft Roamer, Corsair, and Lancer boats too , as they are all on the same family tree and share much in common !
I wouldn't use acetone on mahogany, nor would I use it on plywood. The only reason to use it on teak is to go after that top layer of natural (or applied) oil, and get the oily film off the part of the wood that is going to provide the "tooth" for the varnish to bond to.
Thinner would, in my mind anyway, soak into the wood and remain there to cause problems with the delamination of the finish at a later date. Acetone, to my experience, is "wet" long enough to be a solvent and pick up oil while you are rubbing the wood down, and then it's hot enough that it evaporates out quickly. This allows you to varnish shortly after the wipe down, which if you are a week-end warrior, makes a difference. I suppose you could use thinner, but I worry about thinner mixing with natural teak oils and remaining in the wood.
Hope that answers your question. Warning, you'll need special gloves when working with acetone, use the black chemical gloves, not sure where I got mine, but they will not burn up or leave residue with acetone.
This message has been edited by FEfinaticP on Oct 4, 2005 1:18 PM