I think I've mentioned this before, and I think Tom is also on this track........"the ignition switch".
Before you go out and buy parts, you should get a six foot long wire and hotwire that coil directly to the battery, and take the ignition switch out of the circuit. Go ahead and energize the system directly, and THEN go try to start the motor. See what happens.
I would do it, because I've had the switch blues in the past. Those darn things do malfunction, and they most certainly can get corroded wire and faulty wire between the switch and the coil. Look at the referenced thread above to see where to hook the jumper, it's the same location as if it was coming from the ignition part of your switch. If the switch is bad, the jumper will have jumped the problem and you'll know. In the past I had an issue where the darn wire had flexed so much it was pulling itself off the switch. There was no way to tell because I couldn't see it, and I had not done a close visual inspection up there in the electrical box where my switches on my 38 Express are visible. You take the switch out of the equation, then you know there are only a few other things it could be. I like the thought of the grounding out at the distributor housing too, since I've had the grounded out distributor blues too, in the past.
We're pulling for you, good going on the determination factor and GOOD LUCK. Naturally, the Pertronix modules have a shelf life too, and they have been known to fail, but it's an exception to the rule. Compared to old style ignition points, they're a Godsend.
Regards, Paul
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