We extend to you a cordial "WELCOME ABOARD !" Come on in, make yourself at home, we are a friendly group of enthusiasts, and we also appreciate the classic Chris Craft Roamer, Corsair, and Lancer boats too , as they are all on the same family tree and share much in common !
Paul, Kevins, and All:
One other very important point in the ride of a boat, (or maybe two if I get started) is the MASS of the vessel. Old wooden boats tended to be heavy because of the solid planking. Then the plywoods of WWII and some new glues and much better framing techniques made for lighter wood craft. These lighter weight craft found a niche wthh the power vs weight sailors. But lighter did not mean stronger in all cases, so when fiberglass made its appearance, we got relatively lighter and faster boats without the maintenance problems noted in prior posts. Our earlier 38's were overbuilt and that is why we are so ennamored with them. Greater MASS in these overbuilt boats make them ride similar to woodenboats (seperate of hull design charactoristics, i.e. flatness of hull bottom from fore to aft.). A very good test is to paddle a wooden strip plank canoe all day and a plastic canoe. You will soon learn to value one over the other, and remember, you have to paddle back!
Kevin brought up a really good point on the chemicals. And I would add that some woods cause reactions. Rosewood gives me hives. I simply cannot work with the dust that comes off of it. In either case, prudent protection is a rational behavior. Remember to put a couple or three layers of plastic sacrafice sheets down first, because epoxy will not stick to plastic, but it loves concrete (and your wife will hate the messy floor that you left in the garage, MORE than she will like the beautiful boat you built.).
Again, experiement with the different techniques first before investing 2,000 boat credits this is going to cost you!