Okay now you're talking my language.
Years ago I actually purchased two complete Glenwood systems for my 38 Express. Upon delivery of these beautiful castings it was evident that I had purchased something that would take more of a custom application than I was prepared for at the time. The aft end of the riser was in physical contact with a motor mount, it was not necessarily as high of a lift as the stock iron 427 risers, and the flow ports were VASTLY smaller and only one-way. Tt would have taken a complete re-engineering of the system to make those work on the cruiser.
Now 10 or more years later I finally found a use for one set of the logs, and I'm using them on a 427-powered Lancer project.
I can give you some pointers about the Glenwood system, and first off the bat is the fact that it is a one way system, not a "down and back" system like the iron Chris Craft systems. Water flow is also VERY REDUCED from the CC system which relies on velocity to keep from seeing spikes in temp.
Also, with the Glenwood, be sure you are feeding from the lowest point of the exhaust log to assure you are not creating an air bubble (that would be on the discharge end of the exhaust and not the front side). An air bubble in an aluminum exhaust can lead to melt-down.
I have taken specific measures to open up the system for higher flow for this very reason. Also, the use of the standard PRV (pressure regulator valve) is still recommended, because that valve servwes a purpose with the closed and standard systems, similar but not identical, one big issue being the priority feed to areas where air bubbles are not wanted. Your heat exchanger side will need a pressure bleed off capability to dump overpressure.
Ideally you will be modeling your aluminum system to a stock iron closed system, using some of the old components like the PRV. If not, then you will need to find some on ebay and still follow the concept. The Glenwood risers (if you are, in fact, even using risers and not down-pipe discharge ends) have multiple points of opportunity for that final pass through the system before it is dumped out the tailpipes.
Study the standard system diagrams carefully. I seriously do not think you are going to be able to run "all" the water through the exhaust logs so there may need to be some way of splitting up the flow. I'm interested in seeing what you come up with.
Now not to hijack the thread, back to your Q conversion. The routing of plumbing lines is a challenge when using all the stock iron components, but it is much bigger if you are going with the Glenwood exhaust. Never-the-less, it is doable. The Q intake is cast so a Chris-Craft Q type thermostat housing bolts to it. You will need an older style F-type thermostat housing to bolt to your aluminum intake.
Sounds like a fun project and a very cool motor you are working on.
Looking forward to seeing the photos and all.