CHRIS CRAFT COMMANDER FORUM ® .......A photo-intensive technical reference file and ongoing newsletter regarding the original fiberglass Chris-Craft Commander series. This is an independent not-for-profit and non-commercial web site, not affiliated with the Chris Craft Commander Club ~~ or ~~ Chris-Craft Corporation. Our mission here is to "have fun and share information" about the Commander series (and those associated fiberglass boats on the Chris-Craft family tree) for your individual personal use, and by doing so help promote the good name of Chris-Craft, and help preserve, restore, and appreciate Chris-Craft boats. The main reference feature is the ever expanding MASTER INDEX File which contains what we believe to be the world's largest collection of documentation photos and technical information on the Chris-Craft Commander line of boats, (like these original brochure scans, featuring the iconic first 38 Commander styled by Fred Hudson, and many of the great Dick Avery renditions that followed) , (a huge collection of Chris-Craft 427 tuning and specification information), and a few words about how to use the forum.

We extend to you a cordial "WELCOME ABOARD !" Come on in, make yourself at home, we are a friendly group of enthusiasts, and we also appreciate the classic Chris Craft Roamer, Corsair, and Lancer boats too , as they are all on the same family tree and share much in common !

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Original Message
  • Acetone clears itself out fast by evaporation
      • Paul (Premier Login FEfinaticP)
      Forum Owner
      Posted Oct 4, 2005 1:16 PM

      I wouldn't use acetone on mahogany, nor would I use it on plywood. The only reason to use it on teak is to go after that top layer of natural (or applied) oil, and get the oily film off the part of the wood that is going to provide the "tooth" for the varnish to bond to.

      Thinner would, in my mind anyway, soak into the wood and remain there to cause problems with the delamination of the finish at a later date. Acetone, to my experience, is "wet" long enough to be a solvent and pick up oil while you are rubbing the wood down, and then it's hot enough that it evaporates out quickly. This allows you to varnish shortly after the wipe down, which if you are a week-end warrior, makes a difference. I suppose you could use thinner, but I worry about thinner mixing with natural teak oils and remaining in the wood.

      Hope that answers your question. Warning, you'll need special gloves when working with acetone, use the black chemical gloves, not sure where I got mine, but they will not burn up or leave residue with acetone.

      regards, Paul
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