We extend to you a cordial "WELCOME ABOARD !" Come on in, make yourself at home, we are a friendly group of enthusiasts, and we also appreciate the classic Chris Craft Roamer, Corsair, and Lancer boats too , as they are all on the same family tree and share much in common !
I'm in the early stages of "considering" a particular 35 Sport Cruiser that "may be" available. I'm a bit rusty on deciphering the hull #, as it has been a while since I've actually "owned" a commander! The # is:
FDA 3520 17 H. I know it's a Holland boat, but after that, I'm lost. I anyone can help, I would truly appreciate it...
Also... The fuel tanks are bad. Can they be replaced through the lazarette in this model, or do they have to go forward??
Now, for my "Big Plans"...
I would like to de-bridge this boat and take out the sliding glass doors and have a big honkin day boat. With no bridge, do you think I would have to add support for the top, like an upright pole on either sie?
Any and all input, even from the Lendzion Boys, is greatl appreciated!!
FDA-35-001 to FDA-35-090 were built in 1969
FDA-35-2001 to FDA-35-2074 were built in 1970, 1971, and 1972, with no differentiation as to year.
Since this is number 17 out of 74 hulls built, it is probably a 1970 boat, especially since they produced 90 boats in 1969.
That's my guess! Don't know about the tanks.
Regarding the comment about debridging the boat, I don't understand the concept of removing the (flying bridge) and adding support. It would appear if you removed the bridge, the roof of the boat would be plenty strong. Maybe I'm just not understanding what you are intending. In any case, hey things are looking up if you're getting back in a real boat!
Well, my intent would be to also remove the glass sliding door to salon aswell, leaving salon wide open to cockpit. Wondering if sliding door frame provides any support for top, and if I would somehow need to add additional support upon removing the door... My guess would be NO, but I thought I would throw it out there for discussion...
I own a 1971 SC which has a pole centered inside the sliding doors to add additional support to the center of the roo but if your removing the bridge and dont intend to be up the I suppose it would work?
I'd think "no" is the correct answer too, since that top is reinforced so heavily now, just removal of the sliding glass assembly would most likely not remove anything needed to just hold the roof up, especially if you're not going to have five or six people up there any more.
What have you done to my yacht? Blasphemous! You're going to start rumors. hahahaha btw, I don't think there's any way the fuel tanks would come out through the cockpit hatch. Cutting the cockpit out is the only way I can figure those things could be removed - going forward could be a possibility, but I tend to doubt it.
Drove it to the Goodells Town Hall Meeting. Almost sucked the doors off some poor local's Dodge Ram truck as we both accelerated from about 5mph at the worst railroad crossing on Taylor Rd near Sparling in Kimball Twp up to 200KPH or so. I slowed it down to more legal speeds when I got on I-69 for the one mile ride back to Wadhams and back to the garage. I plan to drive it some more too as I want last year's gas gone so I can fill-er up with fresh Shell premium.
Our boat, FDA350001H, also has the center pole support. I have pulled this out when pulling engines and it is supporting weight. To get it out or in I have either used a piston jack or someone big and tall enough to push up. The jack works best. It does sag a little bit even as solid as it is. Maybe it is just because it is hull number one and they figured some things out later. I would also suggest you look at the beam below the doors at the step. Mine has been repaired at one time from water getting in and rotting the beam. I've avoided looking too deep.
On the inside of our cockpit there is an aluminum trim piece about a foot down and under that are screws. The step into the salon also has screws. My assumption is that the removal of these would allow the "tub" to come out in one piece exposing the gas and water tanks. If later models don't have this or it does not come out I could only imagine cutting would be needed.
As far as removing the bridge. Blaspheme! Best place on the whole boat.
Paul, John and All:
I would hate to see you cut up any fiberglass to get the tanks out. Just cut the tanks up with a saws all, the metal is not that thick. Yes I know about the gas fumes. Certainly You would fill the tanks with water and ammonia, and a detergent like Palmalive first and slosh or let it slosh all around then pump out before cutting. This would get rid of the gas residue in the tanks. Sparks are the problem but ventilate the area well, lay duct tape down and cut through it. You may find some bronze saw's all blades or hacksaw blades for this.
If the tanks have holes in them, then more than likely the gas fumes have already evaporated. You can also hook up a vacume pump and pump out the fumes. I had a beautiful aluminum gas tank once that I wanted to put another fitting on. I hooked it up to a vacume pump and it pumped everything out and did such a good job that the tank collasped like a coke can under your foot, right before our eyes! That was pretty cool! Ventilation is the key thing here. Of course, I am more of a risk taker than most, but still alive.
There is a big danger and of course Eric's notion about pumping C02 into the tank would most likely eliminate the problem of explosion from residual fumes. It seems like the old tanks should be removed intact, because new tanks will have to go back in. Of course new tanks could be smaller. From some of the projects like Dave Varnadore's MISS LILLY, engines were removed and the tanks were brought forward and then out.
We all know how wonderfull a bridge is, but as you know John, I'm making my 36' bridgeless also.
Even without the bridge, they have a great look.
I of course don't know how much my 36 is different than a 35. My door was located in the center, and the walls on both sides supported a lot of the racking of the top. When I removed them, I had to put supports columns on both side. The top did sag a little, but with my bridge already removed, it was not enough to be concerned about, plus I did put a support beam across the top as well. Remember, I leaving the salon and cock pit open.
The bottom of my wall was rotted and so was the cross beam behind it, one of the reasons for removing them.
My tanks would not go far enough forward (with the engines out) to lift out, but cut the front of the cock pit floor back about a foot. This will give me a foot longer salon floor.
I am also moving the galley down into the bunk birth.
I know a lot of you guys hate to hear me/us modifing these greats boats, but because they are such greats boats is the reason I'm building a boat of my dream.
Working with fuel tanks are more dangerous than you may think. Fuel gets in the pours of the metal and you can not clean it all out no matter what you do. You need to fill it with a product that will not burn, water, co2 or even exaust fumes from a small gas engine will work. I can see how pulling a vacuum might work, but I personlly would not do it that way.
In my younger, dumber days, I had a tank blow on me, it broke and cracked a lot of body parts and it hurt.
Here is what CAN BE DONE !! ( The perfect blank canvas for total restoration ) PHOTOS !
October 13 2010, 10:06 AM
This 36 needs to be saved. The previous owner lost the upper flybridge and helm station, pooh pooooh on him. Brian got the boat, is using the motors as spares, so now the boat is a clean canvas for someone with a personal touch like Philippe Boulanger, whose 42' Sports Cruiser is shown below.
This 36' TF is the perfect boat for adding the new power like Jay Meyerson did with his 35, adding a pair of new GM big blocks. New power, with some nice custom interior work, wiring up a couple of V8 motors, and this boat would be able to live another 40 years with ease. The hulls seem to have an indefinate life span.
Now here's another example, Warren Pateman took a really ratted out 1964 Commander hull, pulled EVERYTHING out, found some contraband in the process, and essentially started over by adding new power, and installing a new custom interior. This 36 that Brian has is already good and solid inside, so the work will involve adding a hydraulic steering system (pretty simple actually), gauges, some nice cowling and woodwork of which we have excellent examples of "how to" here on The forum, by glassing and filling over marine plywood, installing gauges, and rockin and rolling classic style in a pretty rare and very good looking hull.
Here is what Warren started with
Do you guys see what I'm saying here? Just because the 36 TF has no helm station,
Warren Pateman would not consider that a problem. Neither would Philippe Boulanger!
This boat can and should be saved!
When this boat hit the water in Australia, it became world famous through many
sources of media exposure, including here on THE FORUM. Warren Pateman personally
sent me all the images you see here. I was in a bar in Huntsville for a wedding one day,
sat next to a couple guys from Australia who were here in the US for a big antique
truck show. They didn't know Warren, but as soon as I said BAMBI, they both lit
up like a light bulb with big smiles. They knew the boat.
Here is what Glenn Feilhauer is doing with a 356 TF now, Glenn is essentially "doing the job" it will
take to restore the 36 Brian has now.
So Yes, Warren Pateman with this 38, Philippe Boulanger with his 42 SC, Jay Meyerson and Greg Gagcak
with their stunning 35 Sports Cruiser projects, Al Langlois with his awesome Roamer project, Glenn Feilhauer
with his 36TF all took on projects equal or bigger than this one will be. So guys, if anyone out there is
needing "how to" advice, there are Forum Members here who can help, who have done it already,
and can give you excellent tips and a helping hand. With many older boats out there now with old motors
with lots of hours on them, limping around in stages of semi-repair or semi-disrepair, this 36 already
has the motors removed and it's ready! The boat is looking for SOMEONE who cares!
I care, by the way, but I don't have the location or resources to do the deed, and one other thing,
I already have a 38 that needs some work. How about you? Do you know anyone who should be doing
this restoration? I think Brian will make you (or them) a good deal.
This message has been edited by FEfinaticP on Oct 13, 2010 10:08 AM
There is a lot of truth in what you are saying. Projects like this are not for everyone, but for the money (basically for the price of motors) you can get into a classic boat with "new" performance and relibility. The cosmetic work is doable and the hydraulic steering issues are simple too. I hope someone saves this boat.
You should go into sales, after reading your notes I was tempted, broke into a cold sweat.
She's I South Jersey. Just hauled to my shop. Hull and entire exterior I great shape. Needs bottom paint and detail. Tanks new by previous owner. Will post interior shots this week. Have no number in mind. Taking reasonable offers.
Came across this thread and was wondering if the boat was still available? Is the boat fairly complete, except engines? Lake Erie Boater from Ohio looking for my retirement boat to use in the Carolinas.
I recently heard someone talking about polishing tanks in the boat... I didn't ask at the time, but now am curious. Has anyone heard of, or know of this process? Does one end up with "The Emperor's Polished Fuel Tanks"?
There are systems that continually pump diesel fuel through filters and dump the fuel back into the main tanks to keep the oveall supply clean. I suspect the tanks were associated with this type of system. I suppose the "fuel polishing" can also be done with gasoline systems too, although it is mostly associated with diesel because stuff can grow in diesel fuel.
Paul and All:
I have always thought that one strength of diesel over gas was that it kept longer without breaking down at the molecular level. (Volitility, evaporation and all the other stuff not withstanding.) I belive gas can break down much sooner than diesel. Old gas cannot be made new, but diesel lasts a lot longer, hence its greater use around the world and in 3rd world countries. Kerosene, parafin and some jet fuels are brothers to it. Some equipment can use any of the above but not gas.
I thought diesel could attract water molecules while gas does not. Then there is the factor of condensation inside the tank itself. The two liquids being different in density contribute to this in different ways. I have always used an additive in my diesel tanks to rid them of H2O. I know there are the same additives for gas, but I thought that this was just a way to sell stuff to worried drivers.
Old diesel tanks just do not have the varnish left-overs that old gas tanks have. I have taken 5 gallons of varnish goo out of a 125 gal gas tank before. I usually, if I can, empty my gas tanks at the end of the season, but just put an additive in my diesel tanks on the few boats I have.
It used to be that diesel was much cheaper than gas because supposedly it took less manufactoring (distilling) to produce it. It supposedly ran hotter than gas hence its use in machines that produced torque, tractors, craines, 18 wheelers, subs, etc. Now, of course the petrol industry has us by both hanging down things and now we pay through both nostrils.
Fuel polishing uses high pressure fuel to clean the tanks
October 19 2010, 5:35 PM
Its like pressure washing the inside of the fuel tanks but uses your fuel instead of water saving the expense to drain the tanks, clean with water then refill. Your fuel is continually filtered during this process and is actually cleaner when its done then before.
Its mostly associated with diesels because most fuel polishers do not want to do this with gas due to the explosion dangers... diesel fumes are not nearly as volatile as gas fumes are.
I've done that a few times Roy, it works very well. One time I let it run for 3 days, running 24 hrs a day, every time I walked by the boat I shook it real hard ( it was on a trailer and was 25' long, so it was safe). I also ran compressed air through a small hose to the bottom to stir it up. I ran the fuel through 2 spin on fuel filter assemblies, checking/ changing the filters every day.