(Login koschrei) Registered Users from IP address 76.173.65.244
Picking up were I left off, I now have a MUCH better camera, so I hope these images are more illustrative. Following Lu's advice I have begun to accumulate some Vallejo colors, and the hair as well as the lining on these Commonwealth chaps for the M4A4 build was done with it, as was the lining using the "Smoke" stain. The rest of the uniforms were painted with Tamiya acrylics rendered brushable with a drop of Liquitex Slo-Dri, and as before the flesh is Humbrol enamels. The flat coat is Future with about 15-20% Tamiya flat base. Still working on the 'light from above' effect, but I my figures are improving.
For the record, here is the Russian guy again, but hopefully you can see the improvements more easily in this better image.
Yes, the improvement is evident on those new images, and I am glad to hear you started using Vallejo because that means you are one the rigth way for figure painting, in my opinion.
Regarding Vallejo paints, you do not need many bottles indeed, because with only one docen of basic colors you will be able to paint almost anything/everything, so take your time to pick the main colors you need and your range will increase in the passing of painting. By the way, Vallejo has some very convenient shades for specific uniforms that will help you to avoid some big headaches too.
As for your figs, as soon as you start using Vallejo you will stop using Tamiya and enamels surely. Vallejo paint is particularly usefull for flesh color so do not hesitate to try it as soon as you can because you will not regret it.
As for your uniforms -again- I must encourage you to paint stronger contrast so no fear to add lighter shade to base color in the same grade you do not hesitate to add that very dark shadow too, because if not the figs look too dark and a bit unbalance in that meaning. Finally please do NOT forget lights and shadows are not all same intensity because natural light falls off gradually over 3D objects, so keep that in mind to reproduce the "light from above" effect convincingly.
I scratchbuilt that Firefly crew with standard infantry uniform one year ago and I hope they will help you to see what I mean about stronger contarst and light & shadows for yours commonwealth chaps. See how some areas are lighter or darker and the lights and shadows are not the same light and dark all the time.
At the moment I am painting the Desert Rats, so I will post more pics as soon as I complete them.
I did pick up about 10 Vallejo colors to start, so I will be adding some more after I figure out how to use them - interestingly several were those "uniform" colors you mentioned which definitely looked like exactly the solution needed for that color problem. Haven't gotten any flesh colors yet, as I am still working up my technique using the enamels (honest, I have a technique in mind there ), but we will see
I will try to add a lighter highlights to the upward facing surfaces of my next efforts, I think you are defenitely right about that ! Not sure if I am going to do any more painting on these two, since I have boxes and boxes of these Tamiya figs and I am happy with where they are at this point. I must admit I am concerned I will spoil them if I work them over since they are clear-coated. May just declare victory and march off the field But then . . .
I have to say again, good work Konrad! I usually work in oils for greater flexibilty and tones/shadows are more subtler. Ever tried them? Hmmm, am overdue to do a few myself!
Bob
Bob and Steve
Top Gun Military/IRON DIVISON Resins
www.topgunmilitary.com
Firstly, you've both done wonderful work on your respective miniatures.
I have painted a lot of miniatures over the years but only with enamels. They are difficuct to work with but I am comfortable with them. However, I have heard so much about Vallejo paints that I recently went out and bought a starter set. My question for Lu is how do you keep the Vallejo paints from drying so fast? Is there a product I can add to extend the working time of these paints so they can be blended, similar to working with oils?
Beleive me I think you are on the right way because (1) you do not fear to try and mistake and (2) I think it is a very good and positive thing to not be down if results are not plenty satisfactory for now, so I agree with you and also consider you must finish those chaps asap and save your energy and experiences for following figures. It does not make sense to have expectations everything will go well at first attempt and that usually only causes frustration if not.
Dave,
Hmmmm... it is good you want to try Vallejo but if you are satisfied with the enamels then no reason to change actually. Anyway, yes, the working system is quite different between mediums (oils, enamels, acrylics) and think all of them need some adaptation and training, so do nto be dissapointed if you discover soon there are things you made with enamels you cannot make with acrylics and vice versa.
I do not use any kind of retarder to extend the drying time but there are modellers who use that kind of products. Yes, the Vallejo acrylics dry fast, but that is not a big problem once you get use to paint with them and I guess that is a bit traumatic for one enamel painter because I also was so in the past .
Anyway, Vallejo paints are very opaque and normally covers very well so I always add water to paint and NEVER use them from the bottle directly because that allows you to take advantage of its covering properties even with very thin coating. I guess that is enought to extend the drying time reaonably, but if you expect to mix/blend the colours on the surface directly as you can make with enamels, I am sorry to say that will be hard to make with this kind of paint. Painting with acrylics will demand a more controlled paint aplication but final results can be so good as with any other medium/paint.
I think there is no universal rule and everyone has its personal style, so I only can advice ytou to try and learn from your own experience. Anyway do not hesitate to coment here your opinions and let see if we can help or not.
One of the keys to working with ANY acrylic is too keep it wet. A retarder delays it setting up....something you don't want. You want to put some on....it dries...layer on the next shade....it dries...and so on. Artist supply places sell what is called a "wet palette". It is a snap top, flat, rectangular box with a sponge and semi-permeable paper on top. You follow the directions to soak the dry sponge..to get out the whatever that made it stay squished up. Then you run a piece of the paper under hot water until it is semi-clear. Put it on the sponge...in the box. Put out your Vallejo, or whatever, in small amounts as on an oil palette. You can then take dabs and mix them on another open area of the palette. The sponge supplies moisture that wicks through the paper and keeps the paint from drying out. The set I bought was from VLS- a big box- about 14" by 16"....WAAAAAY too big for me. So, I took out the paper and sponge...cut them to fit into one of those air tight sandwich storage packages you can buy in three packs at any grocery/Wallyworld store. This makes a working area about 6" square...idea for what I do. Snap the top on when done...it stays "fresh" for a long time. I'm on over a week with my flesh colors on it......still plenty of useable paint to work with. The replacement papers are available at HobbyLobby and Michael's over here in the US.The sponge MIGHT be replaceable with a regular type...dry sponge...the type that is thin and hard when you buy it...and it swells up when you wet it. This sponge seems to be about half the thickness of a cheap kitchen one.
I used regular tap water to follow their directions....but ONLY use DISTILLED water to thin, mix, make washes, filters, etc. with Vallejo. I bought a gallon at Wallyworld for about $1.50. I use it to rinse my brushes...and thin out the Vallejo for washes. Use a #1 or #0 sable brush....keep it wet. I've been getting lessons on using the Vallejo. I'm still pretty heavy handed...used to oils....but once you get the knack...it is a super way to go.
The process is: mix the colors to the shade you need. Rinse brush...roll and pull it back over a soft cloth rag(old teeshirt or sheets are great) to remove most of the water.....touch the tip of the brush to the paint...just a little bit-maybe 1/8th".....brush it on the model...spreading it out where you want it.....rinse brush...pull and roll to remove most of the water(always do this-even if you are going back for more of the exact same color.You don't want ANY staying on the brush to start drying out). Touch brush to next shade...by the time you get to the figure...the first layer is dry....just that fast. You just keep going....blow on it first if you think it needs it. Use a hairdryer to "set" those colors, if you are in a hurry.....change mixes or colors....and keep on painting. If you think the demarcations between shades are too stark....make up a thin wash from the base color and distilled water. Overcoat the whole area...it blends and mellows out the colors....just like a filter on a tank does.
When the paper starts to dry out, or curl...toss it!! Cut and rinse another piece and begin again. If the sponge starts to dry out...add DISTILLED water to re-moisten it.
Phewww!! THAT took longer to describe than to actually DO!!! If anyone has any questions, feel free to post them. I hope this gives you the encouragement to try them...and maybe some "Hey, I didn't know THAT!" for folks already using Vallejo or Andrea type acrylics.
BTW, using TUBE acrylics-the intended use for these palattes- the silly stuff stays useable for DAYS, if not WEEKS!!!!!
Thirty five years ago I won a bunch using Polly-S and denatured alcohol. Same TECHNIQUE today...different mediums...and MORE control. You CAN teach an old dog new tricks. And DON"T quit...persevere. My first figure...I went , "Omigod, it looks like I ran into Tammie Faye at the Mall"....An OLD teeshirt I once had. Anyone OLD will know who Tammie Faye Baker was.....almost made me quit painting!! But it got easier...third figure I was comfortable...re-did the first two....and I just keep saying, "Subtle...light coats...easier to add more than subtract". My new Mantra....
HTH, Dave
Excellent responses, gentlemen. Thank you for taking the time and writing such detailed explanations. I'm definitely going experiment more with the Vallejo paints.
