Building Steve's M4A2 conversion using the Tamiya kit as a base, I recall using a small chisel to scrape a little resin off the mating surfaces to improve the fit so the part would seat evenly along both mounting surfaces on the lower hull casting. From the image of your build it looks like you are using the Hobby Boss kit as a base and that the rear plate your Faxon conversion is a tad thicker at the bottom, causing a bit of a fit issue. The main part of the backplate should definitely contact the rear edge of the sideplates all along the joint, e.g. evenly from top to bottom. If you force the bottom in and fill the gap at the top you will definitely give the main portion of the rear plate more inward angle than it should have. To correct this I would scrape the back of the main part of the rear plate to fit as evenly as possible and do any filling at the bottom edge. Hope this is both helpful and understandable. If not, you could compare the fit of the original kit parts to the conversion part and at least you should see how Hobby Boss intended the rear plate to fit º
Hi Steve, I still have to cut that rear part in half to get the solid upper hull to sit on top of the lower hull. One more question - what are those 2 horizontal notches above the exhaust for ? (when looking at the rear plate from the rear)???
Steve's kits are cast solid, but I have found it is pretty easy to take the Dremel tool and hog out the exhaust area under the rear overhang to let the rear plate stick up inside - remember to leave the areas extending back from the track runs intact, as that was the floor of the grouser boxes. That seemed to be the best way to deal with the fit and to recreate the undercut there on the real tank.
![[linked image]](http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p63/GregHessig/DSCF0004-3.jpg)
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