It is my understanding that the kit comes with little metal zimmeritt modeling tools. Which leads me to believe that the kit can't be modelled OTB in an accurate form? Or are they just bonus items, for when you are working on other kits? Anyone know if you have to add additonal zimmeritt to make this Sturmtiger "accurate"??
since they had a late model Tiger I kit with nice zimmerit replicated. Why wouldn't they base the Sturmtiger on it? And I'm not saying that they have not done exactly that, just seems weird to include those tools if the kit doesn't need them...........
If I remember correctly from an image that was shown of the parts not long back the Chassis has the Zimeritt moulded on just like (or may in fact be) their Tiger (Late). The upper superstructure was zimeritt free just like the box art shows.
Did some Sturmtigers carry Zimeritt on their upper superstructure? If so that could be the reason behind the rumoured Zimmeritt tools.
all the lower chassie parts have zim but the upper hull also has the side and these do not have zim molded into it. I belive that many had zim atleast to the box structure and some even a small amount on that so you will need to zim the sides and possibly the box structure or take an early tiger hull with no zim and use that for the bottom so you have an unzimmed sturmtiger.
Hi Ken , I can confirm that the special parts are indeed a set of 4 zimmerit tools to make the zimmerit.
As for the kit the zimmerit appears molded on in the following places.
Front hull , Rear hull , Front upper hull ( mg/radio op and drivers positions )
That means you have to add zimmerit with putty and the tools along the upper hull side.
The big surprise and most welcome one at that is the rear engine deck. AFV Club have tooled a new deck that is separate and includes the correct rear left grating that is a clone of the right side ( with the hinge in the correct place ).
This means its now possible to model correctly the later Tigers with the symmetric rear grate grills. It just entails you making a straight cut on the engine deck and popping in the new engine deck. It even has a small part of the turret ring race to match up with the kit part.
Other feature is that it has the triangular panel on the engine rear top ( don't know its designation )
"The big surprise and most welcome one at that is the rear engine deck. AFV Club have tooled a new deck that is separate and includes the correct rear left grating that is a clone of the right side ( with the hinge in the correct place ).
This means its now possible to model correctly the later Tigers with the symmetric rear grate grills. It just entails you making a straight cut on the engine deck and popping in the new engine deck. It even has a small part of the turret ring race to match up with the kit part.
Other feature is that it has the triangular panel on the engine rear top ( don't know its designation)"
Could you mark this up on the image. I think I know what you mean, but want to be sure. What triangular panel do you mean? The one on the rear cover plate on engine compartment isn't new, but was already on the Tiger I late kit.
Also there's also something missing judging from your image. The raised are around the hinges of the engine hatch where it is mounted on the rear cover plate on engine compartment is no longer present on the new engine deck. It is reproduced on the early and late Tiger kits but obviously has been removed on the Sturmtiger which is somewhat odd. Need to check back if this is right or a bigger mistake.
As is I have not explained myself properly. Indeed yes the Tiger I late by AFV Club/Skybow hahve the symmetric grates. This is marked in the red box of the pix below.
?t=1240496467
What I failed to explain clearly was that I was excited that now we have a single piece ( new separate engine deck ) that can be used to modify the Tiger I Early when the switchover from asymmetric to symmetric rear grill grates was made. I had always wanted a AM producer to come to my rescue but now I have the easier option. The triangular plate will also help in this I believe. So . now I have the option of either trying to buy spare parts off AFV Club or try to get one of my club buds to do a few castings
I am comparing the new engine deck with the late version Frank. I am unable to see what you are describing as missing - can you give me more pointers please? The only thinh that jumps oit at me is th elack of a rectangular piece on the right rear casting. Its at the 4-10 O'clock position on the Later Tiger.
I'm sorry if I got a bit excited and not fully checked the kit out in comparison to the other two - did not mean to mislead anybody
BTW Frank , would it be possible for you to email me off line please?
The engine access hatch is mounted to the rear engine cover plate with 2 hinges. The area where the 2 hinges are "hinged" to the non-moving rear cover plate are raised (see image). It is present on both the late and early Tiger I kits and the 1/35th scale Sturmtiger by AFV Club BUT it is missing from the 1/48th scale engine deck, which is sonmewhat odd. I don't think that this is correct. Yet it is stupid if one has to correct this.
I just looked it over again and don't have a clue why
this has happened. Okay, they wanted to make a "later"
version deck out of the early and even changed some of
the smaller detail on the rear engine cover plate and
the snorkel cover. Yet, the story with the hinge is a
big XXX.
The Tiger I late had some smaller issues, too, which
mostly have been corrected (I was in the lucky position
to talk them - then the Skybow staff - into doing some
corrections) before the kit was released, but something
like this should be noted before a kit is released.
Especially as the correction isn't very difficult.
I suspect that is what we in CAD/CAMland call a 'supressed feature'.......
They could machine out the missing area on the mould, in an injection mould you can always add plastic byt cutting away the metal, but if they think it is worth it to scrap thousands of kits already produced, I doubt it. Maybe they might do a replacement part as a single item, rather like the Academy bogies on the M3 Lee/Grant recently. But it would be an easy fix for a resin replacement part. Or, frankly, to drop in some scrap plastic and shape up the hinge yourself.
On a seperate note, I got my Wingnuts Bristol F2b today. I was really disappointed. The guns don't work, and it doesn't smell of cellulose dope....