This post is directed to Ron D. who, as far as I know, is the only well-trained watch maker in our circle. Ron spent a lot of time over the years in the company of one or more expert watch makers in the Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, USA area. I'm posting this for everyone to see since I'd like to make a record of this project for the Forum participants for future reference.
Here's the only reference I can find to the Timex 70-6 Movement in this "U.S. Timex - Japan" marked 17-Jewels movement. It's a life-sized drawing of the movement showing both the dial side and the bottom views. The major differences between the 70-4 (first version) and the 70-4 are shown by the numbers 4 at the top and 8 at 7 o'clock positions. The #4 revision was very helpful to me in that I only had to press a spring-loaded Push Pin to release the stem/crown. Very Nice Indeed. The tiny screws on the earlier models were difficult for me.
So, here's what I have:
The model I have is 60841 in Yellow (Gold-Toned) case at the bottom of this scanned page. It was made in 1961. The Timex History Book (TIMEX, A COMPANY AND IT'S COMMUNITY 1854 - 1998) states that (pg 158) Timex purchased the 17-J movements from Hattori (Seiko) in 1959 for 75% less than comparable Swiss-made movements. Timex developed and introduced it's 21-Jewel versions in 1961 in connection with their purchase of a German watch manufacturer and establishing manufacturing operations in Taiwan.
The Movement is #70-6 in the middle of the page. The earliest versions are marked "U.S. Time" and "Japan" on the movement and "Japan" at the bottom edge of the dial. There are no Timex manufacturing/model numbers on the dial.
The movement runs when gently prodded or shaken and can run for as long as an hour or two or as short a time as 5 minutes. As you can observe, this is a Swiss-style movement with bridges which is totally unlike any standard Timex-made movement which utilizes the upper and lower "sandwich" plate design. I'm NOT well-versed or confident in working on these Swiss-style movements. So, what I have been doing is attempting to perform various amateurish type maneuvers in an effort to avoid taking the movement apart and risking ruining it. Rather than do that I'll send the movement to you, Ron, for expert cleaning/servicing. Unfortunately I can't find any step-by-step Timex Service Instructions such as those that exist for the standard Timex movements.
So, here's what I have done so far without removing the hands or dial:
1. Releasing the tension on the mainspring and re-winding it several times.
2. Using a bulb-type squeeze air blower, attempting to blow out any loose grit forcing the air into the sides and exposed underside of the movement.
3. Placing tiny drops of high quality watch oil on a few of the exposed teeth on the visible parts of the several wheels.
4. Placing a tiny drop of oil under the exposed part of the main spring and housing which is accessible from the 5 - 6 o'clock side of the movement.
5. Re-starting the movement dozens of times, hoping that what I have done might be successful.
As stated above, I have not removed the hands and dial. Since there are no tabs on the edges of the dial, it is undoubtedly affixed to the movement by posts sunk into recesses in the dial side of the movement plates. When I get the movement running, it seems to be running very freely and keeping very accurate time over the course of an hour or two.
Any suggestions about where I can go from here would be much appreciated. I'm hesitant to even remove the hands and dial since I've been known to bend dials in the past in attempting to loosen the posts from a movement. Anyone else on the Forum who has experience successfully working with this type of movement will be greatly appreciated.
I have a cosmetically Excellent Condition vintage and very rare Timex watch in which I am confident I can bring any external blemishes up to Like New condition. I've only owned one of these watches previously, about 15 years ago, and sold it to a watch maker friend much to my eventual regret.
All Suggestions/Observations will be greatly appreciated. If all else fails I'll put it in the mail to my Watch Maker Forum Buddy in Philadelphia.