whats with all of the numbers on the side wheel and the elevation knobs. I think I might have a good idea but I need a better explanation how it works. Close up pictures would give me a better idea. Sorry so ignorant on fieldtargets. It just looks like it would be alot of fun and it looks cool. Just new at this stuff.
Thanks

The sidewheel #'s are distance in yards. Turn the sidewheel until the target is focused, and then read of the yardage from the wheel. One needs to know the distance to a target in order to hit it.

The scope knob #'s are yards as well, and correspond to the elevation setting needed to hit a target at any particular distance. Once you focus, read off the distance on the sidewheel, then turn the scope knob to the same number. Now the elevation is correct for the distance.

Of course, you have to ensure that the gun is zeroed to all yardages in order for this to work....

You use the large sidewheel to focus the A/O to find the clearest image of the target at whatever distance it may be placed. After that you get your reading from the sidewheel say 47 yards, you rotate the elevation knob to the coresponding number that you have already worked up as being the direct point of impact for that distance using direct point of aim.

So basically you start at 10 yards and focus the sidewheel till the image is crisp and well defined infocus and mark the side wheel as your 10 yard mark. Then you dial your elevation up till you are shooting to point of aim IE hitting the bull at 10 yards and mark the elevation knob. Then you repeat this for each and every yard out to 55 yards each time marking the sidewheel and then the scope knob.

So when you rangefind to your satisfaction that your right on with the A/O all you have to do it turn the knob to the matching number you have already determined is the amount of elevation required to hold center and be directly on target.

Hope that helps. The reason for the large side wheel is to give you more room to get an exact reading as the smaller the diameter of the wheel will allow less area to put markings and distinguish exactly where you are.


Dee

Looks like I need to get busy on getting a sidewheel and marking off some yards. I have about 50 yard to play with in my backyard.
So thanks for taking the time.
Bret

Don't you believe any of the stuff those guys are telling you. The whole idea of marking yardages, etc. is meerly a ploy to get you to shoot more pellets!! I understand the Beeman and JSB have formed an unholy alliance in order to get shooters to sit at a bench for countless hours, mindlessly shooting pellet after pellet in order to somehow figure out what the "true" settings are for that particular yardage.

Then when you change ranges, say from 200 ft above sea-level to 4000 feet above sea-level, the makings become meaningless and you get to start all over again with another tin of pellets., etc.
The same goes with changes of atmospheric pressure after a rain or even a temperature change. It is a quest for perfection that can never be realized.

Now excuse me while I blow another 200 rounds down range in order to finally determine my "come-ups" for next weeks match. - sigh -
John

John,

I used about 1 tin (500) of JSB heavies last week while changing all my elevation settings to 30X and again this week when not satisfied with what I ended up with. Yesterday and today, I used another tin to change to 35X. So what you have to say is not too far off. But, ain't it fun! I've still got to set up from 35yds to 50yds to finish in time to throw another couple of hundred downrange at the GOB's next weekend. Wouldn't change it for the world. What I do know from all of this is that my setup is dead on from 10yds to 55yds from a bench, since I followed everything up by shooting a knockdown target with a KZ of 1/2" at each yardage setting. I do it the only way I know and thats by shooting horizontal lines at each yardage marker for elevation after first shooting a vertical line to get my windage correct with no wind blowing. I also used about 4 hrs each day.

Now, after all that, Mother nature still has to be dealt with and all of my problems that are to be added to the problem.

Are we crazy or not? 

Pat

Crazy (maybe) Disorder (maybe) Its exactly what I need to keep me from going sane. The more lead pills I can take the better off I'll be. Sorry I don't scare that easy. Thanks for taking the time. You guys are to funny
Bret

Bret,

And this is one of our better days!!!

Pat

When you change the power settng on your scope (50x to 35x), how close are your wheel marks to the previous setting? Shouldn't they be the same once determined no matter what power you have it set at unless you change pellet or fps?

Scott

I did have some changes on the large AZ wheel for range finding and there was quite a difference on the elevation settings going from 50X to 30X. I was using 50X from 30yds to 55 yds and 30X from 30 yds down to 10 yds. And, I had to do it all over again when I finally decided to change again to 35X. When I quit, the USFT was right on at 35X (1/2" KZ at all distances), but I had to use the mil-dots on the Nikko scope from 10 yds to 14 yds. for one revolution of the AZ elevation knob. Now I will work on screwing everything up in the FT positions and Mother Nature will throw in a few curves. 

Pat