I just got this a few days ago and I am really thrilled with it so far!

It's the KASPA series model number 849820

http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/weaver-3-12x44-mm-combat-tactical-scope-black-matte.aspx?a=881932

cheaper than dirt has them for $200

http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/product/80467

or at SWFA

http://swfa.com/Weaver-3-12x44-Kaspa-Extreme-Tactical-30mm-Rifle-Scope-P51366.aspx

SERIOUSLY nice glass - very clear and sharp.

Tactical turrets with nice clicks and no slop.

Side focus (very smooth) - and I was amazed to find this scope focused right down to 8 yds on X12 magnification
with absolutely no optical distortion or fuzziness.

At 55 yds a 1" kill zone is also perfectly sharp and in focus.

Glass etched fine reticule - Christmas tree style which also illuminates in red for those hard to see black on black kill zones.

It's almost half the size and weight of my Hawke Eclipse SF 30mm which I was previously using.

The Weaver is $206 on sale at the Sportsmansquide with free shipping. So if you are in the market for a dedicated Hunter x12 power scope I highly recommend this one + you get a lifetime warranty from Weaver.

When I get a chance I'll post some pics of it on my Whiscombe and through the lens at some near and far targets.

Compared to the VORTEX x10 power scope at $300 or Vector Optics (Viper) ones from the UK also in the $300 - $400 range this scope is one heck of a bargain.

Continued safe shooting.

James

Kaspa mentioned here a little while back. Sounds like others feel the same way - very nice scope for the price.

http://www.network54.com/Forum/451309/thread/1343080641/Good+Scope+recemdation+for+Hunter+class

******************************************
CASA Member - California Airgun Shooters Association: http://socasa.org

brought the same Kaspa to one of our shoots at the beginning of the summer. Because of this, there are at least two more shooters in the club that have purchased one for Hunter Class, one of which is me. Can't wait to get my rifle back from A.Z. and set it up.....

I'll take some through the lens pics in the morning to show off the optical clarity.

Cheers'

james

It is my understanding that cheap scopes don't last long on them but for that price I guess you could carry a backup.

Actually, cheap scopes can indeed hold up to a springer. My old $60 Leapers held up on a BSA Lightning, when other more expensive scopes would not.

I think that price is not the determining factor as to whether or not a scope will hold up on a springer, but instead it is whether or not the scope was designed for springer use to begin with.

As for the Kaspa -- I've not read or heard either way, so I won't be using one on a springer until someone else has let us know of their experience with this situation...

.

A springer? LOL! How does a dude that has to outfit 3 or 4 kids with airguns afford a Whizzer? We were not all created equal! Although looking back 30 years I had four daughters that all had bows. Thank the Lord the wife was working too.

They simply 'ARE' the best at what they do ..... simple as that !

And since when does 4 springs and 2 pistons = a PCP ?

Just kidding

Cheers

James

There was some discussion on another forum about making a springer with a valve that would delay the air charge until after the piston stopped. I told them that would be a PCP charged by a spring pump. The Whiscombe has no valves. It is strictly a spring/piston gun.

Would love to try one myself and if I win the lottery I'm looking forward to owning a couple.

Being a second focal plane scope, you will have to conduct your own measurements as there is no guarantee of where it will be exactly.

The vertical subtensions are in MOA's (at 9X, again):

2
5
8½
13

Why? it was designed for the SS-109 0.223" cartridge.

If your scope is typical, then at 12X, the mils will be 3/4 mils and the subtensions will be:

1.5
3.75
6.375
9.75

Assuming a JSB Heavy (10.3 grs.) at 875 fps with a 27 yard zero, the aimpoints (going from zero downwards) would coincide approximately with:

0
16 and 41 yards
12½ and 52
10
8

Of course you can interpolate the mid-point between the first and second hashmarks to mean about 46½ yards.

Any more precise rangeing will have no immediate and direct relation to the reticule. Still, much better than a Duplex.

Have you tried rangeing with it in low light conditions?

Keep us posted!



Un Abrazo!




H�ctor

my centerpoint's mildots are accurate at 10, but i shoot it at 12. in fact, the markings on the scope's magnification ring are a little off, and for my 12x, i set the marker on the "1" in the "12" so that it's actuallly yielding 12x. if i set it on the center of the 12, it might give me 12.2x

all my rangefinding notes are based on having it set that way.

it's not that anyone would accuse me of cheating, but i need all the consistency i can get, so i check all the settings for consistency pretty often.

this little $70 scope is good, though. i used the mildots at 10x to range a pickup truck and shed across the highway in a field, at "a little over 800 yards." the topo map shows the shed at 824 yards.

hard to beat that $70 scope, though i'm curious about the $200 weaver.

-bp

use this target to measure what is happening:

http://www.mediafire.com/view/?f3tn3k688qin8ju

Print it with the "actual size" setting of your .PDF printing system. ENSURE that the small squares are 1/2" across, the whole chart should be 7.2" across from one thick line edge to the opposite one.

From one point of the large orange diamond to the opposite point there are 137 mm's (5.4") which, at 25 yards (from target to turrets) translates to 6 miliradians.

If your scope is true at highest magnification, then when you set it to whatever that is, it will calibrate with the chart on the horizontal "wire".

If not, then move the magnification till the large orange diamond spans 6 hashmarks at 25 yards and you will know that at that magnification, your horizontal marks are "true mils" and the marks on the vertical "wire" are 2, 5, 8½ and 13 MOA's. Mark the point in the mag ring.

As Bill Price says, it is not a big problem. But life is so much simpler when you can start from solid information and at least an initial trajectory proposal from a good software.

If you KNOW at what magnification your scope is true, then you can use the second focal plane characteristic to your advantage by making the marks whatever is most useful to YOUR trajectory.
You can have another "DOPE" sheet for standing shots and reduce the magnification to allow you to take your shots with less stress.

IMHO, ignorance is not bliss; but I emphasize: it is just my humble opinion.

Hope you go through the exercise and keep us posted!





Un Abrazo!




H�ctor