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(Login djnick66) Missing-Lynx members 184.108.40.206
I liked it
July 30 2012, 7:51 AM
IIRC it is semi workable. You glue the front and back torsion bars and those take the weight of the sitting tank and track tension. The middle torsion bars are loose and can lift up and down. Some people complained about the screw heads that are kinda sorta semi visible. I didn't find them to be a big issue myself. You have to look to see them.
Sorry but these things "semi workable suspension" and springs to make gun "recoil like real thing" are just toy like options and of no real use in a static model or diorama. Giving one the option of moveable suspension is a good idea but one that works would only be good if you plan on pushing it around the floor or pushing the barrel back and forth and saying "BOOM".
As for the Tamiya M26 I do not like the way they did it. I prefer to have my shock absorbers look the part instead of made to simulate the part so the suspension works.
Again sorry just my opinion. If you like it use it, its your model.
Rick Cummelin (Login RickCummelin) Missing-Lynx members 220.127.116.11
I agree--too toy like & gimmicky
July 30 2012, 9:49 AM
I actually built my Tamiya M26 with the suspension movable. But when I installed the tracks, the front & rear road wheels moved upward due to the tension of the track & would not return to a "normal" position. So I pulled the tracks off, glued the suspension in place so the road wheels wouldn't move & then re-installed the tracks. Others may have had different experiences, but IMHO, this spring-loaded movable suspension just adds unnecessary costs to an already expensive kit.
The only real advantage is the front idler and roadwheel geometry relationship....
July 30 2012, 1:22 PM
The front idler and road wheel are interconnected so that when the front roadwheel moves the idler also moves, in order to keep a constant tension on the track. The Tamiya kit, because it is functional, preserves this relationship.
The Dragon/DML kits do not compensate like this, so it is up to the modeller to figure out how they work. Having a workable Tamiya on hand can serve as a guide.
Having said that, the Tamiya front idler parts are very fragile.
The only real purpose I can see of the workable Tamiya suspension is if a modeller wants to display an M26 on a diorama with the suspension in articulation, but also wants to later put it on a shelf. With a Dragon/DML M26, you're stuck with the glued articulation. Even so, I don't see this as a significant reason to pick a Tamiya M26 over a Dragon/DML M26.
There are subtle differences in the two kits. I've always felt that any advantages of one are offset by advantages of the other. When it comes right down to it I was able to pick up piles of the Dragon/DML kits cheaper than the Tamiya, and the cost difference offset any advantages.
I will look into the hatch issue. If the Tamiya hatches are really that much better a mold could be made of them.
You have to replace the front of the upper hull too. The holes for the hatches are not the correct shape either. One of these days I will get around to the fit issues and see if these might make a good master to sell to Tiger Models. By the way there is a set of detailed Pershing hatches availale now through TM that with a little work and left open will work for the Dragon kits. Sorry had to throw that pitch in there.