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Hi all this is my almost complete Grille based on the UM kit with replacement 5 thou superstructure as the kit ones were too thick. The interior is the Part set which is made for the Attack kit so requires a small amount of work to fit. The Part set actually provides you with replacement etched super structure, which sadly lacks rivets; I did not fancy gluing all those rivets on to etch so I made plastic sides.
carlos pitteri (Login carlospitteri) Missing-Lynx members
AMAZING!!!
May 16 2006, 8:54 AM
A incredible work in improvement and superdetailing.
Nice.
I like specially the rivets.
Congrats, is a excellent model.
Hope you will send pictures when finished.
Carlos
have you fixed the gun in place or will you remove it to paint the interior, I generally leave the gun out when painting an SP, once again masterful work, thanks for the pics
The rivets were taken off an old Ehmar WWI. I built and painted it a number of years back and instead of it going in the bin I used oven cleaner to strip of the paint and for the last two or three years it has been the source of all my 1:72 rivets. I shave them carefully off with a scalpel and glue them in place with a little bit of Revell contacta fluid, it is a thick, slow drying glue so you have a good minute or so to correctly position each rivet, I then use plastic weld to fuse them in place as I have some drop off in the past with the contacta fluid alone. As for the gun it can be pulled out to allow for painting however I don’t know how well the lower interior will come out as even with the gun out its still hard to reach.
The rivets were taken off an old Ehmar WWI. I built and painted it a number of years back and instead of it going in the bin I used oven cleaner to strip of the paint and for the last two or three years it has been the source of all my 1:72 rivets. I shave them carefully off with a scalpel and glue them in place with a little bit of Revell contacta fluid, it is a thick, slow drying glue so you have a good minute or so to correctly position each rivet, I then use plastic weld to fuse them in place as I have some drop off in the past with the contacta fluid alone. As for the gun it can be pulled out to allow for painting however I don’t know how well the lower interior will come out as even with the gun out its still hard to reach.
Great Job Calum!
All those rivets to.
When I do revits, drill through, and put .015 thous.
styrene rod though the hole. This way I have a corresponding revit on the other side. Then I shave it to the right hight.
Can't wait to see this monster painted.
BTW, welcome to the group.
-Ken
Sometimes a build almost inspires tears. Thanks for making me humble. That is a great build. I hope you posted it on the Constructive Comments page as well so all the 1/35 hyperdetailer AMPS guys can cry even harder than I did
Nice job of scratching and detailing! I like the idea of using thin styrene to better replicate the sides of the fighting compartment...have you done this before with .005" plastic sheet? If I may I'll share a brief experience I had doing this same improvement on a different model: I used liquid plastic cement (Weld-On) to glue together all the styrene parts (side seams, shelves, etc.) - gave me more "wiggle room" than CA. Anyhow, everything looked great for several days; then, for some reason or another, the plastic seemed to almost imperceptibly shrink toward the glued welds - in the process it warped the side panels and knocked everything else askew. I experimented with various thickness of sheet styrene and found the same thing occurred up to .015"; however, CA didn't seem to adversely affect the plastic in this manner. I hope this doesn't happen to your show-stopper! P.S. maybe you can sneak a tool in there and remove the flash down the center of the gunsight.
Hi Doug,
I have had the exact same problem!....
liquid plastic cement is a very strong corrosive that melts the plastic together and when you are working with something as thin as 5 thou plastic card if you glue something on one side of it with any thing more than a drop of plastic weld within a day or so the reverse side had a depression where the glue has eaten into it. Because of this problem all the interior was super glued in place and the rivet were secured with the thick slow setting Contacta fluid, I tried plastic weld a few years ago and it tended to melt the tiny rivets. However with out the plastic weld they fall off with handling so carefully I apply a very sparing amount of plastic weld over them to lock them in place.
