Hi All,
Thanks for all the previous information on how to fix the Mirage Panzer IV, in the end it seemed simpler to start with the Revell kit and back date it, which proved to be great fun. I have taken the early pattern parts from the Mirage kit and added them to the Revell tank to end up with a great pair of wee tanks. I was pleasantly surprised with the rubber tracks, which are very soft and have taken the track sag well. The only parts I had to make were the side engine air intake louvers for the Ausf C as the Revell kit comes with late ones and the Mirage ones are incorrect and very chunky.

Calum,
looks really good. Are there any pitfalls we might need to watch out for ?
With the difference in color it is easy to tell which part comes from what kit, and it seems to me that - untill the ultimate Ausf D comes along - this might be the easiest option in plastic.
Although it might be interesting to see how I could mate a Cpl Overby PzKpfw IV ausf D with bits and pieces from these kits.

Thanks for convincing me !
Rob

Hi Rob,
The only Pitfall I came across was you have to really pay attention to what version you are building. It was not until I glue the late pattern engine intakes on to my C that I realised the Ausf D was the first to feature the late style intakes, so I had to pull it apart. The only part I really had to work on was the front plates, as you have to remove the inaccurate bottom from the mirage parts as I mentioned in my last thread. If you are building the C you have to add 1mm of plastic to each side as the Mirage kit is too narrow and the Ausf D needs this plus you have to cut a recess from the roof and side of the Revell hull to accommodate the stepped front plate. I fitted the Revell road wheels on the inside and the mirage ones glued straight on top without any issues, the Idlers glue straight on and the drive sprocket needed a new wider centre pin glues in as the Revell one is too small, I could have done better with the tracks but they look ok and glue well. The upper hull needs a bit of back dating with the engine deck and tools see the pictures, if you really want to go to town fit the etches fenders as no matter how much I tried I cannot replace the detail where the Revell tools were, all I could do was cover them up. The Mirage kit has all the back dating parts as separate items which means to back date the top hull is a simple case of adding the parts straight from the sprue as per the Mirage instructions. After that you drop the Mirage turret on to the hull, I choose to use the Revell front plate and the turret ring so the turret does not drop off but that was my choice and the Mirage parts have nothing wrong with them.

Calum

Steve Zaloga did a 1/72 scale desert Pz Kpfw IV ausf D in the January 27, 2006 issue of Military Modelling magazine (Volume 36/1), using the the Mirage kit with extensive modifications and Revell track. There were also many photos of the Aberdeen APG real life example in the magazine article.

Hi Albert, I dont have it in front of me, But I think he mixed some details up on this one as I think the APG PIV was a later or had a later upgrade (tunsia?)
So his 8th company PIV he was doing should have had the rear idler from the kit not the later one he used.
But I think he discoveries it late & mentions something like that in the article any.
So its not that good for accuracy, unless you want to model a later upgraded PIV,but as always worth it for all the tips
Best to find pics of "800" "801" & "813" which are around on the net.
Cheers Elliott

I like it so much that I tried to print your pics for reference, but it didn't work.
When do you think you'll have them painted up for us to see?
Keep'm coming.
-Ken

dam Internet connection....I have an on line stutter

can't see your email address in your post so I'll ask here.

Would it be possible to use your photos showing your (substantial) rebuilding of the Mirage kits on my www.72review.org site? It's things like this that are really the reason for creating the site, so we can build an archive of information and tips that doesn't get lost in the impossible-to-search backpages of Network54.

Jolyon

Congratulations to your tanks and thank you for modelling tips
But in your case I would change one detail:
You should cut off the cupola and turn that one visor is at 12h. I raised the low cupola a little bit and used therefor the idler wheel late Pz4 from Mirage.

I think I also will start my old WSW Panzer4, it has definitely nicer shape then Mirage.



Regards from Vienna/ Austria
Robert

30.9/1.10 Modelling show "Go Modelling" in Vienna/Austria
www.ipms.at

Looks like a "Secret limited" Hasegawa kit?
whos WSW?
Cheers Elliott

WSW is a German Company which offers Resin kits in 1/48/72/87. Take a look at
http://www.wsw-modellbau.de/
I guess there are more kits still available then shown on hp.
Also available at tracks & troops

I bought from them in 1/72 some years ago
Panzer 4 A,C and D
Nice moldings from hull and turret (except driving gear from late 4, but after glueing gear wheel nearly invisible)
The problem are the running wheels and return rollers.
Their details are often excentric, but wheels have nice early hub caps. Now I started cutting the hub caps off, glueing it to the back(backside is in centre) and drill new bore for suspension at frontside.
For WSW Pz 4E is the option to use Revell Nashorn wheels.

Panzer 35t, based on Esci shape ,gear wheel and idler wheel mixed. ( see pic on homepage in 1/87)
Regards from Vienna/ Austria
Robert

30.9/1.10 Modelling show "Go Modelling" in Vienna/Austria
www.ipms.at

All look good, I would never have guess your PIV was resin.
Thanks for the info
Cheers Elliott

Very useful pics on your progress
Keep up the good work.
Cheers Elliott

Thanks everyone for the feed back and advice, I don't think I will chnage the rear ideler on the Uparmoured D but I will move the cupolas

Calum