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Unfortunately I have been fully occupied finishing my Group Build items to be able to post anything new. However going through my Photobucket account I have found some interesting restored vehicles that I photographed at the Festival of History in 2010. I hope they will be of interest to someone.
Hopefully I will be able to show some of my work next week,
Well you seem to be well and truly bitten by the 'Braille Bug', you are off to a flying start and all the builds are of excellent quality. I think the decal problem is one we all encounter, what would be ok on a bigger model can appear slightly too thick on a braille model. I would like to try dry print transfers if I could locate any, I think they would be more scale and produce a better finish. Well done with all your builds, look forward to further updates with interest.
your 'scaled down' painting skills hit the mark on these builds, the Mark IV Female tank is a standout to my eyes, I hope the effect of the "Braille Bug" thats bitten you doesn't wear off anytime soon.
Those are interesting tanks you have shown us, I like the look of the Pegasus BT7, I might be investigating that one further. The 'What if?' stuff is funny and very quirky. I am not that interested in this sort of thing, but I know that it has a big following out there and there seems an inexhaustible supply of paper projects to keep them happy. The Tiger is interesting and I will be interested to see how it turns out after painting and detailing. I look forward to your next update.
I enjoyed it so much, that I dug around in my stash to see what other GAZ kits I had - and found the MW GAZ-AA armoured truck and the PST/Zebrano GAZ AAA with 61k AA gun, and the MW Ba-27M (OK this one is an armoured car, but its built on a GAZ-AAA chassis).
Somehow I managed to create 2 - 3 hours spare time every evening during the past week, so cracked on with getting these built.
By the weekend I had the GAZ-AA Armoured truck and the GAZ AAA built and ready for their initial coat of paint (along with last weeks GAZ 42 & mortar).
Pics are below.
They now need to be checked for further careful filling & sanding, before another lighter spray of paint.
The Ba-27M needs lot of rivets before further assembly (to allow good access to panel lines). I have Archer transfers for this. I'll put pictures of the progress in next weeks update.
More details of all the above are in progress builds in my blog, below,
This message has been edited by neilyall on Jul 29, 2012 7:31 PM This message has been edited by neilyall on Jul 29, 2012 5:50 PM This message has been edited by neilyall on Jul 29, 2012 5:09 PM This message has been edited by neilyall on Jul 29, 2012 5:01 PM
I found time to try some Archer Decal rivets on the turret of the Ba-27M.
The rivets I used are the second smallest, and are very subtle, and will barely be seen when painted, which should create quite a realistic effect, provided only thin layers of paint are applied. These vehicles had quite small bolt heads so should look about right.
I'll update my blog with further progress on this vehicle soon, turret not finished yet, also needs rivets on the top plate and 'cupola'.
The body will be harder than the turret to decal. And for the proverbial 'rivet counters' I won't place the exact number of rivets in all the excact right places, there are literally hundreds to put on, if I get within 90% of the correct figure I'll be happy enough
A real cornucopia of green machines, well done, especially finding the time to do all this lovely stuff. Are these Military Wheels models easy to get together? I have heard that PST are sometimes a bit tricky to put together too, was this the case here? I look forward to seeing these being finished, is this going to be the Russian version of your German convoy?
thanks, Military Wheels are not easy builds at all, lots of cast lines to scrape off, and lack of locating marks on parts, coupled with not always clear instructional diagrams, can make them a bit difficult. PST are actually a bit easier, the UM kits are better again.
Paul you are nor far off the money with your query, I'm not going to replicate the late war convoy and BP-44 train diorama, as that would be a bit lame, but the next big diorama will have a russian armoured train, and some russian wheeled and tracked vehicles, probably a more rural setting, its still in planning, and these vehicles will populate it.
Due to the fact that trains are long skinny objects, a square or close to square would be of impractical size and difficult to display.
I will again have to plan and mount the diorama on a long shelf, which does limit creativity and diversity for the diorama, but concessions & compromises are always part of the game in modelling, so the limitations of board size inevitably means it will still in some ways be similar to the BP-44, late war convoy diorama.
This message has been edited by neilyall on Jul 30, 2012 9:55 PM
You seem to be making steady progress with this build, the detailing is very nice and you are producing a first rate model. Have you good references for the interior of the vehicle? I ask, because there are some nice websites out there with colour photos of restored vehicles and have full interior shots to work from. I shall be looking forward to your next update, you seem to be getting along really well with this build.
I have made some prgress of the Dragon 232 Radio Armoured Car. After some research I came down to two options for marking - a 1st SS (LSSAH) Panzer Div vehicle used in Greece in 1941, or a Grossdeutschland one from Russia 1941. I went for the latter because I liked the tactical sign for the motorcycle/reconaissance battalion on the front.
It still needs some additional stowage, then a spray of dull coat and dust.
Arnaud Cascal (Login duanra67) Missing-Lynx members
July 30 2012, 10:45 AM
I left the M10 in his box for a new project. It's the Minitracks kit of the Somua Sau40, à french assaut gun built in 1940.
Mine will depict a version "wath-if". Some of the tanks had to be fitted with a 47mm AT in place of the 75mm.
In fact, one Sau 40 was built before june 1940 (and maybe fought in the last days of the campaign). Production was planed to began in july 1940 with 2 different guns, the 75mm and a 47mm (not enough 75mm).
The first tank on my group picture is a S35 with a better Alby turret.
Interesting selection of early war stuff, nice to see something a bit different. I want to build a Somua, is the one in the foreground the Heller one that you have detailed? I will follow your progress with interest as I am hoping to build more stuff from the early days of WWII.
They are preiser figs, they look pretty good to me...
Glad to be here
I have several complicated 1/35 builds and wanted to do something simple, as in no conversions/etc
Digging these little kits, so much detail for such a small thing!
Welcome to the wonderful world of Braille Scale modelling. The model looks really good on its base and I think a load of tank riders will really make for an interesting little diorama. I noticed the DS tracks so I assume this is the Dragon offering, how do you rate it as a kit? I ask because I want to build some Russian stuff and would like to know which are the best models to get. Keep up the good work.
this is my third 1/72 attempt, my others where a little panzer 3 and sherman that have not been completed (just kind of playing around with them)
I was pleasantly surprised by how much detail dragon packed into these little guys, its a great little kit!
So, thumbs up from me, with the caveat i don't have the experience to compare.
if you want to make some russian armor i highly recommend these little guys
Here's where I am on the Russian Armored Train: painting is done, decals are on. I have several little machine gun barrels to replace that got lost. Then I'm gonna put one more gloss coat on before I flatten this, then I need to weather it.
I haven't room in my Hobby Room to lay it out on the track, so this is how it is displayed for now:
Man that finished train looks good - you appear to have varied the depth or shade of green, and the result looks great.
I have this kit, hopefully soon to be started - I'm hoping it turns out as nice looking as yours !
Anything I need to look out for in the build ??
With weathering, its not so different to any vehicle, except no mud, unless you have it maybe derailed.
The wagons get soot from the locomotive chimney (and from every passing locomotive),as well as dust blown by the wind from the surrounding landscape, and rain can cause that to streak downwards. As with anything made of ferrous metal, rust is possible, as is chipping on heavy use areas, though these are best kept to a minimum unless you want the train to look very old or abandoned.
The loco could have streaks around the inspection & access hatches, as parts behind these hatches need to be oiled and can also have water leaks.
The wagon axle box hatches (for each wheel) may also have streaks, (probably no sealed roller bearings in those days), the axle boxes needed to be regularly packed with grease (or maybe use oil) which can melt and leak when the axle boxes get very hot, which they could do, even in very cold temperatures. In railway days gone past a hot enough axle box could be seen glowing red at night, & could cause the axle/wheel to fracture, derailing the wagon and train.
hope that helps
This message has been edited by neilyall on Jul 31, 2012 2:36 AM This message has been edited by neilyall on Jul 31, 2012 2:32 AM
Yeah, the color variation was a technique explained to me by Jim Wechsler, an AMPS Master. I decided to try it here on this train given all the nice flat panels I had to practice on. I hope to use that same technique on the Dora I'm building.
Things to look out for, my apologies of some of this is too obvious to you:
On the engine tub; it is a bit wider (half a millimeter or so) than the upper works on the engine. Need to sand to smooth things out. As I recall, there are no locating pins to help keep this lined up so you may want to try adding some strip styrene inside to help make sure the join is smooth. Unfortunately, I didn't think of this until after I'd fought the thing in place.
Some of the turreted cars have a similar issue; make sure that everything is lined up very well when you glue them down.
The Photo etch is massive and plentiful; take some time to put it all on, especially the hatch hinges. Also, some of the large photo-etch panels that go on the engine are slightly larger than the surface you are gluing to. I needed to take a file and rasp them down to even up a couple of them. Be sure to have enough CA or Gator Grip Glue (gotten at gatorsmasks.com) very close to the edges of these panels or they'll snag and pull up and that's a real pain to fix!
The P/E panels next to the bumpers are delicate and bend real easy. So far I'm lucky none have broken off at this point with all the handling I've been doing. (knock on wood!)
The holes on the smaller turrets need a notch cut into them for the turrets to go into. This is best done before you assemble the train cars. Also, I recommend leaving the machine gun barrels off the turrets till the last.
One thing I didn't do was to remove all the turrets from the cars before painting. I highly recommend doing that so that everything gets painted right and the little turrets don't get paint in the joints causing them to stick to the car. (I actually had Future holding these little buggers down.) This also allows paint to get to the places adjacent to the turrets; something that doesn't happen when they are installed.
That's all I can think of for now on this.
Thanks for the recommendations on how to weather this. I think I have a few ideas on how to make this look good now. I'll also be looking at real pics of trains to see if my mental images will work in well on my model.
thanks for the description of things to watch out for in the train build. (these comments are a help to all, not just me)
I last built a UMMT armoured (train) car, more than a year ago (different variant to these) and the same issues were also present - the most annoying one being that the lower tub (or hull) was a different width to the upper part, thanks for the reminder.
I too snapped off at least one of those etch armoured plates that protect the buffers, luckily I found CA glue will fix a mishap like that.
Looking forward to seeing how you finish this off, please post update pictrures when you do.
This message has been edited by neilyall on Jul 31, 2012 7:32 PM This message has been edited by neilyall on Jul 31, 2012 7:32 PM
Yeah, I guess those are some off the universal things we have to watch out for on these UM trains. I do want to get the other Russian Armored Train out there. I think it's called the OB-3 or something like that. It has the flatcar with gun mount and a couple other different cars.
Man, the IPMS Nationals in Colorado will have a large collection of armored rail subjects on display next year!
Yeah, I can shoot some closeups. Otherwise, those four turreted cars would all look the same! I'm almost finished with this beastie; I have dull-coated and 'dusted' this train, now I have to add some streaks and drips. I'm almost afraid to do that; I don't want to mess this up.
Yeah, I shot a black undercoat first and then applied the Dark Green over it with an airbrush. After that, I added some Olive Drab to the centers of the panels; again with an airbrush, and also added some Olive Drab to the raised details. That was kind of practice for using the same technique on my Dora Rail Gun.