Kit, DML 6289, Pz.Kpfw.I Ausf.A Early Production “Smart Kit”

DRAGON MODELS LIMITED


Product Specifications.

6289, Pz.Kpfw.I Ausf.A Early Production “Smart Kit”. 1/35th-scale styrene/multimedia kit containing 188 styrene parts (including 46 clear), one bag of “Magic Tracks”, one photo-etched brass fret, two water-slide decal marking schemes and eight pages of instructions in 11 steps.


Introduction.

When DML recently released their Flakpanzer I, it was noted that there were parts on the sprues that suggested the standard version of this tiny Panzer would not be far behind. Well, we modelers did not have to wait very long at all, so let’s see what they have given us.


Tracks.

These “Magic Track” individual links are all-new; unlike those on the previous Flakpanzer I, they are loose and are given in a separate bag attached to the now-usual DML parts card. They capture quite well the smaller, triangular appearance of the guide horns as seen on these earlier Panzer. The tedious cutting and cleaning that was necessary to use the tracks from the Flakpanzer I kit is not necessary here, but since the links fit together quite positively but very loosely, glue will be required to keep them under control during final fitting.


Suspension System.

The suspension system is essentially what is given in the Flakpanzer I kit and features some parts that can remain movable after careful assembly; the wheels will rotate and the main bogies will pivot. I recommend that the modeler fix the units in place after everything is in its proper location. If desiring to put the model on a base, plan ahead so the suspension system will properly follow the contours of your ground-work. One nice feature is a multi-part idler wheel that will properly represent the way the spokes intersect with the rim along with the channel that results on the inner rim surface. Another feature is the separate coil spring, which is the proper diameter according to drawings in the cited references.


The modeler should exercise care in assembling the bogie units since the road-wheels have specific sides that must face outwards, while the idler wheels must also be attached in a certain way. The instructions are clear showing the road-wheels, but less so when showing the idler wheels. Hint: the hub of the idler with the thin lip around the edge faces in towards the hull. The girder that runs from the forward to the aft bogie unit has a hex-shaped hub-cap molded where the axles enter it, but for a proper appearance, the axles should protrude slightly above the surface. I recommend that when the modeler has the suspension where he wants it, the hole gets filled with styrene rod for the proper appearance.


Hull.

The lower hull is a one-piece tub with integral side panels, which makes for ease of assembly. A separate bow plate/transmission housing is attached to the front, while a separate stern plate is attached in the rear. These parts represent the actual configuration of the prototype quite well. The rear plate is properly curved, while the front plate has weld detail as well as the flattened areas under the final drive housings, where they meet the belly plate. While I had no fit problems with the previous Flakpanzer I kit, on this kit I had to use some styrene strip to improve the fit of the bow plate (D-10) where it met the front edge of the belly plate (X). The belly plate and hull side walls feature crisply-molded rivets, panel lines, access plates and suspension system mounting points. The rear plate will receive several fittings, a tail-lamp, jack block and rack, and finally, the tow pintle.


Superstructure.

The separate fender units are bare of tool and OVM locating holes on the upper surface, and have no knock-out pin marks on the lower surface. The instructions show which locating holes to open for this version, from underneath, so pay attention! The tools are nicely-done and have mounts and clamps molded on. Marker lamps are provided, but there is no option for any Notek blackout driving head- or tail-lamp, which would quite probably have been seen on the Panzer with markings from the 5.leichte-Division in Libya. The jack features separate mounting hardware and a choice of two different types of jointly-mounted wire cutters; the jack block has a separate lower rack and since a slide-mold is used, a nicely detailed grab handle is rendered on one surface. In addition, the fire extinguisher has a separate mounting plate. The exhaust mufflers have fine “accordion” pipe detail (correctly angled downwards) as well as opened ends, due to the use of slide molds; they are capped off by etched brass mounting brackets and perforated heat shields. The front and rear mud-flaps are separate, while the tiny devices that hold the forward set to the fenders are separate parts, a rather nice bit of detail engineering.


The upper superstructure is based on an inner shell that is molded with part of the glacis plate. To this, the front, side, rear and roof panels are attached; careful clean-up of the parts allowed them to fit nearly flawlessly. The engine deck and side walls is a separate part (with etched grills for the rear corner vents), but there is no bolted flange detail between it and the upper lip of the hull’s rear plate. Up front, the forward glacis plate is fitted with a separate transmission access hatch panel that has bolt openings on the inner flange; there is also a head-lamp with clear lens and a slide-molded horn. The engine deck hatch lids, as well as the two fuel filler caps are separate parts as are the split hatch lids on the superstructure roof plate; the latter has fine separate levers and are devoid of ejector pin marks. All view port lids are supplied as separate clear parts, with separate glass blocks, except for the small port on the superstructure rear. That one is solid styrene and cannot be depicted opened up.


Throughout, there is exquisitely delicate molded-in counter-sunk screw head detail as well as various other things such as weld beads, hinges and bolts. Separate lift hooks, tow mounts, transmission cooling air exhaust pipe, rod antenna, mount and stowage trough complete this assembly.


Turret.

The turret also has counter-sunk screw head detail on its roof plate as well as the side walls; there’s also some very nice, understated weld bead details where appropriate. Like the superstructure, all view port flaps are given as clear parts with separate inner glass blocks; they can all be modeled opened or closed. The hatch lid is nicely-detailed with separate levers for the inner surface, and, like all other visible surfaces of this kit, is completely devoid of ejector pin marks. Naturally, it can be modeled opened or closed. The twin MG13k armament is mounted in a movable mantlet, which also includes the tiny, centrally-located aperture for the gunner’s optical sight. While the guns have the proper perforations on the barrel jacket (as well as the correct “off-set” configuration), DML has chosen not to use a slide mold to pre-open the bore ends, which considering their extensive use of the technique for most of their recent vehicle and figure kits, has this reviewer scratching his head. Regardless, a few turns of a fine drill bit in a pin vise will settle this “issue”. A rudimentary geared turret race ring is provided on the turret base, but the gear teeth are far too large.


Molding, Fit and Engineering.

Overall, the fit was good-to-excellent, except where noted. All details were crisply-rendered and there were no ejector pin marks to be seen on any visible surface, including the inner faces of hatch lids.


Accuracy.

Overall, the model scales quite well with drawings from the references listed below. The model most resembles the 3.Serie/La.S., since it mounts a brake lamp on the rear plate, has ribs on the rims of the road-wheels, a wire cutter co-mounted with the 3-ton jack, and only two fuel filler caps on the engine deck. However, it lacks the small tab on the front edge of the transmission access hatch lid as well as the reinforcing armor strips mounted on the superstructure sides. According to cited references, these should also be there. Although not an accuracy issue, the following items would have been nice to have in order to provide a wider scope for vehicle configurations:


• Notek head-and tail-lamp.
• Armor guards for the engine cooling and exhaust vents.
• Nebelkerzenabwurfvorrichtung (rack for the deployment of smoke candles) for the rear plate.


In addition, later tracks with the larger solid guide horns could be fitted, depending on the time frame the Panzer will represent.


Instructions.

These are typical for DML and are clearly-rendered line drawings. This is a relatively simple model and the instructions reflect this; I had no problems with them whatsoever. Colors are, as usual, coded to match Gunze and Testors paints.


Decals and Markings Information.

The water-slide decals are from Cartograf and are rather simple, but as usual, they are crisp and well-saturated. As each design is only one color, registration is not an issue. Carrier film is thin and cropped close to the edges of the designs. Although three color schemes are given, only two have markings provided. These are for:


• White 833, Panzer-Regiment5, 5.leichte-Division, Libya 1941. The base color is “Field Grey”, covered in “Panzer Yellow”.
• White 13, 3./Panzer-Abteilung z.b.V.40, Norway 1940. Overall “Field Grey”.
• Unidentified Unit, Nuremburg 1935. This is given as the pre-war three-tone scheme of “Field Grey, Red Brown and Khaki Green”.


While I have no quarrel with the markings themselves, I find it hard to believe that DML is still not providing the proper information regarding the colors these early Panzer should be painted. Modelers should note the following:


• “833” should be finished in Dunkelgrau RAL 7021 base with an over-coat of either (or both) Gelbbraun RAL 8000, with patches of Graugrün RAL 7008 covering the remaining 1/3 of the item.
• “13” should be finished in Dunkelgrau Nr.46 (later the code was changed to RAL 7021). This was over-sprayed with Dunkelbraun Nr.45 (later RAL 7017) in patches, so it covered roughly 1/3 of the item being painted.
• The Nuremburg Panzer should be finished in the pre-war “feuersicherem Buntfarbenanstrich” three-tone system of Nr.17 Erdgelb-matt, Nr.28 Grün-matt and Nr.18 Braun-matt sprayed on in a soft-edge pattern.


In addition, easily available references show that there were some very interesting markings applied to pre-war Pz.Kpfw.Is; DML missed a golden opportunity by not including some of them.


Conclusion.

With the exception of the tracks (which are rather tiny and “fiddly”) this kit will go together very easily, and will exhibit a very high level of detail right out of the box. With a bit more effort, the modeler will be able to construct quite a fine display piece; it’s a shame that DML did not put that extra effort in themselves by including some additional parts, more markings options and proper color instructions.


Recommended.


Frank V. De Sisto


References consulted for this review included, but were not limited to:


• “Panzerkampfwagen I”, Panzer Tracts1-1, by T. Jentz & H. Doyle.
• “Panzerkampfwagen I”, Panzer Tracts1-2, by T. Jentz & H. Doyle.
• “Pz.Kpfw.I/Pz.Kpfw.II Series and Variants”, Achtung Panzer No.7, by M. Bitoh.


Reviewer’s note: Since May of 2005, I have been working on books for Concord Publications, a sister company to DML. The reader may wish to take this into consideration. For my part, I will attempt to maintain an objective viewpoint when writing these reviews.


DML kits are available from retail and on-line shops; for details visit their web site at: www.dragonmodelsltd.com.


Delete bytemebyteme from email.