(Login zappa93) MODERATORS ONLY - Time on Target from IP address 162.83.170.158
DRAGON MODELS LIMITED
Product Specifications.
6354, Sherman M4A3 (105mm) HVSS. 1/35th-scale styrene/multimedia kit containing 670 styrene parts (including18 clear parts), 18 metal parts, one turned aluminum gun tube, one photo-etched brass fret with 28 parts, two DS-100 track lengths, four water-slide decal marking schemes and eight pages of instructions in 11 steps.
Introduction.
Over the past couple of years, DML has released a bevy of partly- or completely-new Sherman medium tank kits. These have included an M4A1 76mm, M4A2 76mm, M4A2 75mm, Sherman III, M4A3 76mm VVSS and M4A3 76mm HVSS. The latest item is a nearly all-new M4A3 105mm HVSS kit, based for the most part on parts from the last year and a completely new turret sprue.
For Shermanaholics, this is all great news. What’s more, there are more new (or re-worked) M4s in the pipe-line from this manufacturer. Who says Allied subjects are being ignored!?
Tracks.
These consist of newly-molded T80 steel chevron double-pin tracks in single lengths of DS-100 soft styrene, one for each side. These are beautifully-rendered and have complete details including the openings on the sides of the end connectors for the track pins, as well as distinct bolt heads on the inner surfaces of the end connectors. Separate, individual conventional styrene guide horns with complete details are provided and must be glued in place. These will require some clean-up of mold pips and separate ejector pin nodes; this will be quite a chore, but the end result will be tracks with extremely intricate details.
Suspension System.
The Horizontal Volute Suspension System (HVSS) is very well done. To begin with, the wheels and tires are separate parts, which will make painting the tires much easier; it also allows for a realistic seam on the tire’s outer surfaces. The idler wheels are configured the same way; all wheels have details on both faces. The suspension units are designed so that they will articulate; metal springs and brass tubing is provided to facilitate the process. To get an idea of how complex the break-down of the units really are, one only needs to know that each consists of almost 30 parts. Detail is extensive and includes Ordnance Department parts numbers cast on where appropriate.
The return rollers are broken down into inner and outer halves (where needed) and have the sprue points situated at their rims. This will ease clean-up considerably. There are separate mounts for them, but they are not for use since the new hull pan has them molded in place. The idler wheel mounts have separate axles to help in properly fitting the tracks; don’t fix them in place until you are satisfied with the look of your tracks. There are new final drive parts as well as multi-part drive sprockets; a choice of “solid” or “open” drive tooth rings are given.
Hull.
The hull pan consists of the belly plate, both sides, and the sponson floors molded as a single unit, from a slide-mold. As mentioned above, the mounts for the return rollers are molded in place as is the detail on the belly plate. The latter includes the escape hatch, various ribs, drain plugs, engine access plate and other details. The side walls to which the final drive housings are attached are also molded in place. This area then receives a nicely textured cast “sharp-nose” transmission cover, complete with separate tow shackle attachment points. For the first time ever, the exhaust pipe for the “Little Joe” auxiliary motor is given for fitting under the sponson.
The rear plate is a separate item (there are two of these, not counting the extra un-used parts for the previously released M4A2 76mm), to which two-part fish-tail exhaust pipes are then attached. The early style exhaust baffle/deflector unit is a multi-part affair and the later type is also included, but marked as not for use. If your references indicate the vehicle you wish to model mounted the later type, feel free to use it! The usual tow hook and its mount, “U”-shaped tow clevises and their mounts, and idler wheel axle housings are all provided as separate parts.
Superstructure.
The superstructure, like all of the most recent DML M4-series kits, has the weld seams properly raised above the armor plate surfaces; there are no more trenches to be laboriously re-worked. The area around the crew hatch lids is a casting, so it does have foundry numbers but no texture; this can be added using the method of choice. The superstructure assembly has a number of separate parts, including: engine deck plate, access hatch lids and vent covers; gas, oil and water filler caps (with detailed filler points); driver and co driver’s hatch lids (with separate clear periscope blocks, rotator plates, lids and brush guards) and various fittings (lift rings, head-and tail-lamps, horn, brush guards, gun travel lock). The bow-mounted .30 cal. machine gun is from a slide mold and includes nice perforated barrel cooling jacket and a pre-opened bore. The external gun travel lock is given along with new pivot points for it. The instructions show that the pivots molded on to the glacis plate are to be removed, and replaced by new separate parts.
Note that although the rear plate is slotted to carry spare track block holders for the VVSS suspension system, these are not appropriate for this tank. Keep the links and racks as spares and fill the four slots back there. The instructions list these parts as “not for use” which is fine, but they don’t tell the modeler to fill the slots. You have been warned. On the other hand, the modeler is properly instructed to remove the protrusions inside the rear plate, so the superstructure will fit the hull pan. The spare T80 track blocks, usually seen on either side of the superstructure plates above the fenders, are not provided.
Nicely-rendered tools (the modeler must open up the appropriate mounting holes on the superstructure part, as shown in the instructions) and the stowage rack for the rear plate finish up the basic assembly. New gun tube bore swab staffs and their racks are provided. Wound wire cable, etched brass clamps and styrene ends allow for the construction of a very convincing tow cable. A new superstructure side-mounted first aid box is provided in three parts for maximum detail. The final item that is attached to the superstructure sides are the etched brass fender sections and their styrene stiffeners. The styrene stiffening ribs have no specific locations given on the fenders or superstructure side plates, although the instructions do show (approximately) where they should be fitted; the overhead drawings in the painting section will also be of help in properly placing these parts. Suffice to say that, in this respect, the instructions are not entirely adequate.
The external “stops” for the engine access hatch lids are now included, while the small lift handles on the lids themselves are molded in place. Likewise, the lift handles for the two crewmen’s hatch lids are also molded in place. This is the 21st-Century; these should be separate parts.
Turret.
The upper turret shell comes from a slide mold and therefore has the pistol port opening molded in place. There is a mold seam in that area which must be removed. A separate lid for the port, as well as the actuation rod is provided. The gunner’s side of the turret features the cast-in thickened cheek armor, with the lower edge blended in to the remaining surface. References indicate the lower edge of the enhanced cheek armor should be sharp, not faired in as shown on the kit part. This is an easy fix with file and knife; on the other hand, perhaps this is an actual variation? The turret has a nice cast texture but there are no foundry numbers or symbols given. When fixing the upper and lower turret shells, it must be remembered that the resulting seam should simulate a casting seam, NOT a weld bead.
Nearly all of the turret fittings are separate parts. These include gunner’s sight and periscope mounting plates, lids and brush guards with separate clear ‘scope heads. Both mushroom vents are provided, with the rear one being a separate part so the turret can be used to create the type that did not mount the 105mm howitzer. The rear vent also has the unique pintle for the .50 cal. M2 HMG. Unfortunately, the M2 itself is not provided. Other details include an excellent search-light and base, US antenna mount and base plates, as well as various MG stowage brackets and lift rings.
The commander’s vision cupola has clear styrene parts for the view ports and periscope head, as well as separate lid and lift handle (why are the handles separate here and not on the driver’s and co-driver’s hatch lids?). The optional split hatch cupola (there are two of them) is complete with separate periscope mounting plates, clear styrene ‘scope heads, and hatch lids with foundry parts numbers molded in place (along with the lift handle!). The separate loader’s hatch lid also has a separate lift handle, internal detail and no ejector pin marks.
The 105mm main gun tube can be built up from a slide-molded styrene part, or a turned aluminum part. The mantlet and rotor shield parts are nicely textured and include foundry casting numbers; when complete the gun can elevate. The mounting strips for the dust cover are provided as five separate parts, all with distinctly-rendered studs.
Molding, Fit and Engineering.
The suspension bogies are the most complex items in this kit, but these guys went together without any problem whatsoever. Just be careful with the springs, since if “launch” is initiated, they WILL achieve orbital velocity. The glitch in the instructions seen on the previous “Thunderbolt VII” kit is also present here: part Q-14 mounts opposite Q-13, NOT where shown being attached to Q-1. There are three places the modeler can stick a part, Q-13 and -14 go in the middle place (they are also “keyed”) and will fit in only in that spot.
The remainder of the main parts fit very well, with no real surprises. Overall, detail is crisp, if in some places simplified (those pesky grab handles come to mind). There are no ejector pin marks on any visible surfaces and there was no parts shrinkage anywhere to be seen.
Accuracy.
I have no scale plans to compare this kit against, so I cannot comment on dimensional accuracy. The main bits are in the proper places and have the proper “look”. Photos reveal that the suspension bogies are almost spot-on, with the volute spring units being compromised slightly; this is an extremely easy fix since it only requires a bit of sanding. It also appears that the road-wheel rim bolts are a bit undersized.
There are some missing bits such as the .50 cal. machine-gun and the T?? spare track links. Their absence limits what can be done with what’s provided in the box, but in all probability, the veteran modeler will have these items in his spares bin. However, these should have been given by the manufacturer.
Instructions.
The instructions are short and busy, and are presented in the usual drawn style. I mentioned one glitch in step one, as well as the fact that some filling needs to be done to the superstructure rear plate.
Decals and Markings Information.
Water-slide decals by Cartograf of Italy are provided for four different tanks. As usual, they are crisply printed, have sharp edges and thin, closely cropped carrier film. The markings depict:
I can find photos of only two of these tanks; “Andy” and “White 6”. “Andy” shows only the bumper code HQ-24 (the other is obscured or cropped out) and one can also see the name on the turret side. “White 6” has a camouflage of local mud applied over the stars and some turret and hull surfaces. So, these two as provided for in the kit are substantially correct. Note that according to photos, “White 6” wore the bottom section of the wading trunks and also had T66 single pin tracks (neither of which are provided in the kit).
There is a problem with how the 10th and 13th Armored Division tanks are identified in the instructions, at least from a “text-book” point of view. Simply stated, Armored Infantry Battalions did not have “organic” tanks of any sort. A typical post-1943 Medium Tank Battalion had three 105mm-armed medium tanks in the Battalion’s Headquarters Company, and one assigned to each Company’s Headquarters. So, the first block of bumper codes should read 13▲ (for the division) followed by 24▲, 45▲, or 46▲ (for the tank battalion), or 10▲ followed by 3▲, 11▲, or 21▲. In their case (bearing in mind this is the “proper” sequence), the second block of “HQ” codes are all OK to use.
Conclusion.
Although there are some problems with the instructions, some questionable markings and parts/features combinations as well as some omissions, this is still an excellent kit. It can easily be made to depict a late WW2 or Korean War tank with what’s in the box. The bottom line is that with a little bit of TLC, an excellent and very accurate replica will be the result.
Highly recommended.
Frank V. De Sisto
References consulted for this review included, but were not limited to:
1. “Sherman: A History of the US Medium Tank”, Taurus, by R.P. Hunnicutt.
2. “The Sherman at War”, Concord 7001, by S. Zaloga.
3. “The Sherman at War (2)”, Concord 7036, by S. Zaloga.
4. “US Tank Battles in Germany 1944-45”, Concord 7046, by S. Zaloga.
5. “The Battle of the Bulge”, Concord 7045, by S. Zaloga.
6. “The Sherman in US and Allied Service”, Osprey Vanguard 26, by S. Zaloga.
7. “US Armour Camouflage and Markings 1917-45”, Osprey Vanguard 39, by S. Zaloga.
8. “M4 (76mm) Sherman Medium Tank 1943-65”, Osprey New Vanguard 73, by S. Zaloga.
9. “Sherman in Action”, Squadron 2016, by B. Culver.
10. “Walk Around M4 Sherman”, Squadron 5701, by J. Mesko.
11. “M4 Medium (Sherman)”, AFV Weapons Profile #29, by P. Chamberlain & C. Ellis.
12. “US Armored Divisions, the European Theater of Operations 1944-45”, Osprey Battle Orders 3, by S. Zaloga.
13. “US Armored Units in the North African and Italian Campaogns 1942-45”, Osprey Battle Orders 21, by S. Zaloga.
14. “US Tank and tank Destroyer Battalions in the ETO 1944-45”, Osprey Battle Orders 10, by S. Zaloga.
15. “Tank Battles of the Pacific War 1941-1945”, Concord 7004, by S. Zaloga.
16. “Modelling the US Army M4 (75mm) Sherman Medium Tank”, Osprey Modelling 35, by S. Zaloga.
17. “Modeler’s Guide to the Sherman”, Ampersand, by P. Harlem.
Reviewer’s note: Since May of 2005, I have been working on books for Concord Publications, a sister company to DML. The reader may wish to take this into consideration. For my part, I will attempt to maintain an objective viewpoint when writing these reviews.
DML kits are available from retail and on-line shops; for details visit their web site at: www.dragonmodelsltd.com.
