Kit, Tristar 35028, German Panzer I Ausf.A Sd.Kfz.101 (Early/Late Version)

MRC/ TRISTAR


Product Specifications.

35028, German Panzer I Ausf.A Sd.Kfz.101 (Early/Late Version). 1/35th-scale styrene/multimedia kit. Contains: 536 styrene parts (including six clear and 192 individual-link track parts), one etched brass fret, water-slide decals and painting guide for six tanks; 12 pages of instructions in 13 steps. Price: $45.00 USD.


Introduction.

There are very few manufacturers that improve their kits using modeler feed-back and the findings of well-informed consultants; Tristar is one such entity as can be seen in this latest version of their venerable Pz.Kpfw.I Ausf.A. In fact, so there is no confusion for the consumer as to which version a particular issue of a kit contains, both of the previous releases of this early German Panzer have been withdrawn from the market. So, as far as this manufacturer is concerned, this is IT!


And for the most part, the product of this years-long gestation period is well worth acquiring.


Tracks.

The tracks are newly-tooled and are no longer workable after assembly. They are “handed”, meaning that each side of the vehicle has specific tracks assigned to it in order to portray the edges of the links in the proper fashion; the links are therefore labeled as “L” and “R” for their corresponding sides. The tracks also seem to be of the type with the larger guide horns. They do not clip together or stay together using friction, so after cleaning three sprue points from each link, they must be glued together into sections and then draped over the completed suspension system before the adhesive hardens completely.


Suspension System.

The suspension system is identical to the original kits and can be articulated. It is accurate for the most part, but still appears to feature a slightly undersized coil spring on the first axle, part D-11. The road-wheels and idler wheels are all completely new; they each feature separate rings for their rims, giving them the proper appearance. All of the road-wheels are of the later type with reinforced inner rims, so if the modeler wants to create a replica of an earlier Panzer where the rims are not of this type, some surgery will be required; this will be relatively easy, but remember to do it before attaching the outer ring parts! The return rollers are separate parts featuring crisp and delicate details; in addition their three mounting axles are properly represented as a line sloping downwards towards the rear of the vehicle. The drive sprockets sit in separate final drive housings.


The main bogie units can be articulated, so if needed the modeler can have the replica conform to the terrain on a display base. However, since the tracks are of the individual-link type, careful planning will be needed for the proper result. In this case it might be prudent to acquire an after-market workable individual-link track set such as that from Friulmodel.


Hull.

The lower hull is in several parts, which is something I am normally not happy to see. However, in the case of this kit, there was a real reason for this since there is a nearly complete interior provided for this Panzer. So, there is full detail on the inner walls of the hull side plates and not a sink mark or ejector pin mark to be seen. Although the means of attachment to the hull belly plate are through the use of angled butt joints, the fit was excellent; likewise the rear plate also fit perfectly. After clean up and with a bit of sanding, the curved aspect of this part will be properly apparent. The belly plate is exquisitely detailed inside and out. This part has three ejector pin marks in the back on the inside surface; they will not be seen as they will be covered by the engine compartment’s fuel tanks or other assemblies.


Superstructure.

The main forward superstructure part is nicely, if incompletely, detailed. While it does have weld beads, it does not have any of the recessed screw-heads seen in photos or drawings, especially on the front and side plates. Two different glacis plates, each with separate and differently-sized transmission access hatch lids are given as are two different engine deck parts; the latter have either two or four filler ports (also with separate lids). The type with two filler lids is a 3.Serie/La.S. engine deck, while that with four filler caps is a 4.Serie/La.S. engine deck.


The new rear plate for the engine deck has a cut-out to accommodate the goings-on in the engine compartment and has the mesh-work molded in place. The instructions say the modeler must cut out the molded-on mesh to use the four etched brass parts that replace it. I wonder why that part was newly-tooled to accommodate the engine but not the etched details?


Either deck type can also have the extra armored guard seen on the superstructure side plates, the added armor plates over the air intake and exhaust grills, or the smoke candle discharger rack seen at the rear. So, as always, check your references for the configuration of the Panzer you wish to replicate.


All access hatch lids are separate parts, with each of them detailed inside and out. None have any visible ejector pin marks and the ones that cover the engine deck have parts that allow them to be fixed in various opened positions for engine cooling. While the various view-port flaps are separate, they have no support details that would allow them to be properly posed in the open position. Various tow hooks and lift hooks are distributed around the outer surfaces of these parts, while an exhaust pipe and head-lamp with clear lens finishes up the glacis plate. In addition, with care in fitting, the main superstructure parts can be completely removed in much the same way as the prototype, to show the Panzer’s interior detail. So, the modeler might consider refraining from permanently attaching some, or all, of these main structures.


The two main fenders are separate parts and have a separate “thinned” styrene part to replicate their outer edges. Front and rear mud-flaps are separate multi-part affairs that include etched brass latches; any or all can be left off the finished model as was often the case on vehicles seen in service. The fenders also receive the exhaust muffler assemblies, complete with their etched brass heat shields; the pipe openings are solid and it will be quite a chore to open up the slots on these delicate parts. Putting these parts on the edge of a sprue and using a slide-mold to open the slots would have been a good idea. The usual tools, vehicle jack, jack block, marker lamps (in clear styrene) radio antenna with storage trough, and a fire extinguisher dress up the fenders. There are a number of etched brass parts used here to replicate the various clamps and clips, all of which provide for a fine level of detail. There are options here as well; this includes two styles of horn, two styles of tail-lamp (but the earliest type is not given) and the option of adding the Notek black-out driving head-lamp. Modelers should note that in general, this last item did not appear on German vehicles until after the end of the French Campaign in 1940.


Turret.

The turret is conventionally molded to include a bayonet-style opening to secure the assembly to the superstructure roof; it will need careful clean-up to fit the hole and then freely rotate. The mantlet is designed so the two MG13s can elevate; these are the shorter, later types as used on most of the series production vehicles and they will need their muzzle ends to be opened for a proper appearance. The hatch lid is separate and detailed on both sides, while the turret roof plate has the proper recessed screw head details. The remainder of the main part is completely devoid of any details to include weld beads and recessed screw heads, especially on the side-walls. Although all view-ports are separate parts, there are no supporting parts to hold them in an open position.


Interior.

The interior bits for the for the driving and fighting compartments consist of axles for the suspension, floor panels, various boxes and batteries; driver’s seat, hand and foot controls and instrument panel; transmission/final drive and drive shaft; rear firewall and transmission-to-engine couplings. A fine radio and multi-part rack along with several other separate detail parts dress up the front end. In addition, various bins and boxes, signal flag holders, MG spare barrel case, MG ammunition magazine stowage racks and some bulkheads are also provided to make up an almost completely detailed interior.


Some bits that are not given such as gas mask containers can be sourced from the spares box. Other items that are lacking, including internal view-port details, will require some fine scratch-building by the interested modeler. Some clear styrene parts for the glass blocks for some of the superstructure view-ports are supplied in the kit. They are designated as not for use and are ignored in the instructions. I would have no problem using them.


The engine compartment is really a tiny masterpiece. It features a multi-part block with fully-detailed panels and piping, separate air filter cylinders, many separate small detail parts, separate fuel tanks, various covers and shrouds and even a separate radiator. This can all be seen through the various ports and hatches, or, like the prototype, the entire deck can be lifted off to show the compartment. This area is almost worth the price of admission on its own!


The turret interior also has some nice details, including the receiver bodies and hand grips of the pair of MG13s, their spent shell catcher boxes, separate magazines, gun sight with eye pad, and weapon mount travel lock. There are also turret control wheels and an exquisite multi-part commander’s seat assembly. This includes the electrical conduit that runs from the floor-mounted electric power slip-ring to the turret. As mentioned elsewhere, there is no internal detail for the various view-port lids. Also, the relatively massive size of the turret ring bayonet mount precludes much detail from being added in the proper places, including the MG13s ammunition magazine ready rack, seen below the guns.


Molding, Fit and Engineering.

For such a complex kit, I found nothing to complain about regarding molding and fit. Some of the engineering is not too modeler-friendly, especially where some sizable sprue connections are situated extremely close to a part, without enough room to insert the Xuron clippers to carefully detach it. This was notable on the two hull side panels and in a few other less-critical places. The solution here is to use a micro-saw blade to detach the parts.


Accuracy and Details.

Drawings in the cited references indicate there are no major or minor accuracy problems. As mentioned, there are some vexing detail simplifications or omissions, especially regarding the turret outer shell and the main superstructure parts. In both cases this includes lack of weld detail, screw head detail on the exterior and also internal details for all of the separate view port lids. The way in which the turret is designed to attach to the superstructure also precludes the addition of some details in the interior.


None of this is really anything to get crazy about, but now that you know…


Instructions.

The instructions are well-drawn but oddly-presented, especially since they consist of two separate parts that when slipped together may only confuse the modeler further! There is also no assembly step numbered “4” (it jumps from 3 to 5), but what is given is obvious. While the instructions also properly remind the modeler that the tracks are “handed”, they are a bit obscure when it comes to the proper placement of other parts such as I-33 and I-34, as well as I-43. And, once again, the modeler is reminded to check his reference sources before committing to any particular parts combination for the specific vehicle type desired.


Decals and Markings Information.

Markings by Cartograf are included for six Panzer. The water-slide decals are well-produced, feature sharp edges, have excellent registration and good color saturation. In addition the carrier film is thin and closely cropped to the designs, obviating any trimming by the modeler. The markings depict the following:


• White 313, 3 Company, 2 Battalion Agrupacion de Carros, Spanish Civil War.
• White 13, Pz.Abt. zBV40, Norway 1940.
• White 526, Polish Campaign.
• White 534, Polish Campaign.
• White-outline 833, 5.Leichte-Division, North Africa.
• White Palm Tree/Swastika, North African Campaign.


Using photos I was able to confirm “White 13” and “White 534”; drawings seem to confirm “White 313”. The remaining vehicles are un-confirmed using the cited references. “White 13” should have the partially obscured segmented Panzer rhomboid from the parent Panzer-Regiment from which the vehicle came; this is probably a vehicle formerly belonging to 5.Panzer-Division. It is also possible that the Balkenkreuze supplied for “White 525” were “subdued” with a color other than yellow as has traditionally been thought; on this subject, there is still room for debate.


I find it perplexing that Tristar is still not providing the proper information regarding the colors these early Panzer should be painted, especially since Tom Jentz is often listed as a consultant. Modelers should note that the following is based on findings published by him and Hilary Doyle years prior to the release of this particular kit.


• “833” and the un-numbered Panzer should PROBABLY be finished in Dunkelgrau RAL 7021 base with an over-coat of Gelbbraun RAL 8000, with patches of Graugrün RAL 7008 covering the remaining 1/3 of the item.
• “13”, “525”, and “534” should be finished in Dunkelgrau Nr.46 (later the code was changed to RAL 7021). This was over-sprayed with Dunkelbraun Nr.45 (later RAL 7017) in patches, so it covered roughly 1/3 of the item being painted.
• The Spanish Civil War Panzer, “313”, should be finished in the pre-war “feuersicherem Buntfarbenanstrich” three-tone system of Nr.17 Erdgelb-matt, Nr.28 Grün-matt and Nr.18 Braun-matt either in a sprayed on in a soft-edge, or hand-brushed hard-edge pattern.


In addition, easily available references show that there were some very interesting markings applied to pre-war Pz.Kpfw.Is; Tristar missed a golden opportunity by not including some of them in what could be called the ultimate Pz.Kpfw.I Ausf.A kit.


Conclusion.

Overall, this kit is a little gem. It contains an outstanding level of options, and includes an almost complete interior. While there are a couple of detail glitches on the styrene parts and some “traditional” mistakes in the painting guide, any modeler worth the name, armed with good references, will in the end have an outstanding replica in his collection.


Highly recommended.


Frank V. “Curly Stooge” De Sisto


References consulted for this review included, but were not limited to:


1. “Encyclopedia of German Tanks of World War Two, Revised Edition”, Arms and Armour Press, by P. Chamberlain, H. Doyle & T. Jentz.
2. “Panzerkampfwagen I”, Panzer Tracts 1-1, by T. Jentz & H. Doyle.
3. “Panzerkampfwagen I”, Panzer Tracts 1-2, by T. Jentz & H. Doyle.
4. “Panzertruppen I”, Schiffer, by T. Jentz.
5. “Pz.Kpfw.I/Pz.Kpfw.II Series and Variants”, Achtung Panzer No.7, by M. Bitoh.
6. “Panzerkampfwagen I & II”, AFV Profile 15, by Maj.Gen. N.W. Duncan.
7. “German Light Panzers 1932-42”, Osprey Vanguard 33, by B. Perret.
8. “Blitzkrieg 1936-1940 Malowanie I Oznakowanie”, Wydawnictwo Militaria 22, by J. Ledwoch.
9. “Blitzkrieg Armor Camouflage & Markings 1939-40”, Squadron 6101, by S. Zaloga.
10. “Leichte Panzers in Action”, Squadron Armor 10, by U. Feist & M. Dario.
11. “An Illustrated Guide to German Panzers 1935-1945”, Schiffer, by W. Fleischer.
12. “Blitzkrieg in the West”, After the Battle, by J.P. Pallud.
13. “The Condor Legion, German Troops in the Spanish Civil War”, Osprey Elite 131, by C. Jurado & R. Bujeiro.
14. “Hitler’s Panzers, the Years of Aggression”, Tanks Illustrated 27, by B. Perrett.


Model Rectifier Corp. is the North American distributor of Tristar kits. Available from retail and mail order shops.


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