Kit, DML/Cyberhobby 6436, Ferdinand Fahrgestell Nr.150100 Final Production Vehicle

DML/ CYBERHOBBY


6436, Ferdinand Fahrgestell Nr.150100 Final Production Vehicle. 1/35th-scale injection molded styrene/multimedia kit. Contains: 271 styrene parts (including 12 clear), two bags of individual-link “Magic Tracks”, 10 metal parts, one turned aluminum gun tube, three turned brass 8.8cm rounds, one length of brass chain, three photo-etched brass frets, one piece of braided metal wire, one decal marking scheme and eight pages of instructions in 22 steps.


Introduction.


Following up on their “Premium Edition” releases of the Panzerjäger Elefant and Ferdinand, DML has just released a variation in the Cyberhobby line that contains markings for the last Ferdinand produced. The twist here is that when this schwere Panzerjäger was awaiting the application of its base camouflage color, factory employees scrawled various bits of graffiti all over the vehicle’s primer-painted surface. This makes for an interesting bit of history and will be of help to a diorama modeler who may wish to depict a factory scene.


Tracks.

The Magic Tracks have four faint pin marks on each link, with an additional pip on the connector, or “bridge” link; my advice is to ignore them or get a set from Friulmodel. Masochists can clean them up, which since they are quite faint, should be easy; it’ll just take quite a bit of time to get ‘em all! The tracks also require glue as they will not stay together using friction, even to get them in place. Also remember that there are two bags and that the links in each are not the same. One has a guide tooth and the other is flat; they should be fitted together in an alternating pattern, somewhat like a Soviet T-34’s tracks.


Suspension.

The torsion bar arms are fully detailed and include separate end caps, while the wheel hubs properly represent both types, one of which protruded further than the other; be careful when you fix them in place. Also, these were all-steel, so don’t go and paint the rims in your favorite rubber color! The suspension will articulate to a certain degree after assembly and the idler sprocket can be adjusted, which will help when installing the individual-link tracks; this means that the modeler won’t come up with too many or too few links at the last moment.


Hull.

The hull molding comes from a slide-mold and has complete details on the sides and belly plate. This includes weld beads, access plates, drain plugs, panels and various rivets. Aside from the suspension components, various mud scrapers are added. The lower glacis plate is also integral with this part and includes interlocked armor plate joints with weld details. The rear plate is a separate part, to which separate exhaust shrouds are added. There are choices of etched brass or styrene deflector plates and screens, as well as styrene or metal “U”-shaped tow clevises.


As an alternative, a styrene of etched brass tool box can be fitted to the starboard side of the hull. The etched brass one is unique in that it includes all of the tools and maintenance items (in styrene), as well as their brackets (in etched brass), that were seen inside of it; leaving it open will create a nice point of interest. It should be noted that shortly after Kursk or possibly during the battle, the tool box was relocated to the hull rear, so check photos before you attach yours, if building an in-service Ferdinand.


The modeler has the option of using the original single-piece styrene fender/mud-flap units, or an etched brass and metal wire multi-part unit; for this a dedicated etched brass bending tool will be needed. To the starboard side is added a styrene spare antenna storage cylinder. Spare track racks are also provided as styrene or etched brass parts.


Superstructure.

Parts of the superstructure side plates are located on the hull molding; this will help in alignment. Separate front plates and separate rear quarter plates must all be carefully aligned so things don’t go amiss later on. The engine deck plate can then be added along with the various hatch lids (with separate clear periscope heads, detailed with etched brass parts), antenna mount, gun travel lock and vent covers. Up front, a pair of Bosch head-lamps, and a multi-part etched brass and styrene jack and jack block can be used; there is also a choice of styrene or metal “U”-shaped tow clevises. The starboard side gats either a closed styrene tool box or an opened etched brass version, complete with styrene tools and etched brass clamps. Styrene end loops, wound metal wire and etched brass brackets will allow the modeler to produce an excellent tow cable, while there is a station-keeping tail-lamp at the rear.


Casemate.

This is a single main part coming from a slide-mold. So, there is complete detail on all sides to include various plate interlocks, weld beads, attachment bolts, hatch lid openings, periscope lid openings, hinges and gun sight cover. The fume extractor vent cover, as well as the hatch lids are separate, with the latter detailed on all sides, while the periscopes are provided as clear parts. The large round removable plate on the rear face of the casemate has a separate shell-ejection port lid and all MP-Stopfen (pistol ports) can be depicted hanging in the opened position with the provided chain.


The 8.8cm PaK43/2 L/71 gun tube is given in its original two-piece styrene form or as a turned brass composite item with a three-part, slide-molded muzzle brake. The mantlet will allow for some articulation and there is a choice of etched brass or styrene rain guards for the casemate face. There is a basic gun breech and mount for the interior, as well as three turned brass 8.8cm rounds; the latter are provided with etched brass base plates with primer and data in place.


Molding, Fit and Engineering.

The fit of the main parts is quite good overall, just take care when aligning the left and right side superstructure extensions, parts B6 and B7, along with the rear plate, part B5. It is not as if there’s problem here, it’s simply that you will want these straight and true so that the casemate will fit properly. The same goes for the front end; there are parts that fit over one another (one will require trimming by the modeler as shown in the instructions), so be careful and go slow.


Molding is very crisp and there is virtually no flash; seams are minimal and will respond to a swipe with a hobby knife or fine sanding media. Knock-out pins are minimal; this is an older kit so they are present on the inner surfaces of all hatch lids. They are extremely faint and easily removed with a light sanding; no details will be harmed.


Accuracy and Details.

Hilary Doyle’s drawings in Panzer Tracts No.9 were the references I used to check the kits parts for accuracy. The casemate roof matches Doyle in most areas except the following: the shape of the sliding sight cover is too long on the side nearest the commander’s hatch lids; the commander’s split hatch lids are smaller than depicted by Doyle, but have cut corners (according to photos), which Doyle’s drawings ignore. This begs the question “Where did he get it wrong and where did he get it right?” The fuel tank filler caps on the kits engine deck are hinged at the front, opposite to what is seen in Doyle’s drawing (in this instance his drawing is corroborated by photographic evidence). Other main components match within more than acceptable tolerances. For the sticklers among you, it must be remembered that these early, pre-CAD Panzer Tracts books had their plans drawn in 1/24th-scale and reduced 69% to approximately 1/35th-scale, as stated at the beginning of each book so produced. This should be kept in mind when using them as references.


Instructions.

The instructions are in the usually busy, drawn style associated with DML.


Decals and Markings Information.

The decals are crisply printed by Cartograf and are in perfect registration, which should not be a surprise since all are in one color! As shown on the box and in the instructions, they can mark the last production Ferdinand with factory-applied graffiti. While the included markings are the kits main selling point, it would not have hurt if others were included for an in-service Panzerjäger.


Conclusion.

This is a fine rendition of the Ferdinand and is chock full of refinements and other goodies that usually come from the after-market industry; in that regard this kit is excellent value for money spent. The decals can be viewed as either an excellent idea, or as a limitation; I guess it depends on the point-of-view of the consumer.


Highly recommended.


Frank V. “Curley Stooge” De Sisto


References consulted included, but were not limited to:


1. “Combat History of Schwere Panzerjäger Abteilung 653”, J.J. Fedorowicz, by K. Münch.
2. “Combat History of Schwere Panzerjäger Abteilung 654”, J.J. Fedorowicz, by K. Münch.
3. “Elefant and Maus (+E-100)”, AFV Weapons Profile 61, by W. Spielberger & J. Milsom.
4. “Ferdinand, Elefant Vol.1”, AJ Press Gun Power 22, by T. Melleman.
5. “Panzerkampfwagen Tiger”, Achtung Panzer No.6, by M. Bitoh, H. Kitamura & M. Udsuki.
6. “Jagdpanzer”, Panzer Tracts No.9, by T. Jentz & H. Doyle.
7. “Kursk 1943, the Tide Turns in the East”, Osprey Campaign 16, by M. Healy.


Reviewer’s note: Since May of 2005, I have been working on books for Concord Publications, a sister company to DML and Cyberhobby. The reader may wish to take this into consideration. For my part, I will attempt to maintain an objective viewpoint when writing these reviews.


Cyberhobby kits are available from them at: www.cyber-hobby.com, and from DragonUSA at: www.DragonUSAonline.com.


Delete abwehrabwehr from email