MINIART
Product Specifications.
35036, SU-76M Soviet Self-Propelled Gun w/Crew. 1/35th-scale styrene kit containing 607 styrene parts, five water-slide decal schemes, four-page markings/painting leaflet with figure assembly guide and eight pages of instructions in 37 steps.
Introduction.
In terms of sheer numbers produced, the Soviet WW2-era SU-76 series of self-propelled guns was second only to the legendary T-34, with 17,258 of the main version, the SU-76M, being manufactured beginning in August 1943. The vehicle was based on automotive components of the T-70 light tank, married to the 76mm Zis-3 field/anti-tank gun, and was designed to be used as a direct support weapon for infantry units in the offense and defense. A sound design, it soldiered on after 1945, notably in the service of the North Korean People’s Army during their attempt to forcefully reunify the Korean peninsula in June 1950, and during the aborted 1956 Hungarian Revolution.
An angled front view shows the main components dry-fitted to the hull; the only things fixed in place with cement are the suspension swing-arms and road-wheels and the upper glacis plate.
First released by Alan in the early 1990s and re-boxed for wider distribution by DML, this offering from MiniArt is completely new. While this new release is a vast improvement over the Alan kit, there are a number of fit, molding and engineering issues that prevent what is essentially a decent kit from realizing its full potential. Yet, with patience and some basic modeling skills, a more than acceptable finished model will result. If there are any doubts in that regard, the modeler only has to visit ML’s gallery and have a look at what Steve Zaloga has done with the kit.
Tracks.
The model includes individual link injection-molded tracks that have crisp detail, an accurate pattern and are nicely molded. They fit together very well after clean-up of the two sprue attachment points, which are located one on each side of each link. The fit is not “friction tight”, so the links will need to be glued together prior to fitting over the suspension system. It is probably wise to let them “set up” for a time for ease of use; I also find that he process is eased if the final join is done on the drive sprocket with the help of one of the teeth. Personally, I have obtained a set of Friulmodel tracks (T-60/T-70, ATL-55, from Chesapeake Model Designs, www.chesapeakemodels.com) that come with a pair of sprockets, which are readily adapted to this kit. They are also far easier to use in this instance.
Suspension System.
Individual torsion-bar swing-arms are fitted into openings on the hull side wall; the tabs are keyed for proper alignment, but there is far too much slop in every axis (see below). The road-wheels look OK at first glance, until one notices that the rim separating the tire from the wheel hub, as prominently seen in photos, is far too subtle. In fact, it is barely discernable. The idler wheels’ (which are the same as the road-wheels) axles are not adjustable, so extra care will be needed when closing-up the track links in order to ensure that the final two will meet each other properly. The drive sprockets have the proper lighting holes around the rim and are attached to separate final drive housings, which themselves are detailed on all visible surfaces. The drive sprocket axles will not fit into the holes in the final drive housings; the openings need to be widened. The return rollers are mounted on to separate axles.
Hull.
One thing that sets this kit apart from most eastern European kits is that the lower hull tub is a single, slide-molded part incorporating the side walls, belly, lower bow and lower stern plates. The side walls are nicely molded to include panel lines, bolts and swing-arm mounts, but no weld beads are seen anywhere.
The hull also has several problems, mostly related to molding techniques and engineering. The openings for the swing arms are rather rough and are far too large for the swing arms themselves to fit into with any degree of precision. As recommended by Steve Zaloga on this web site, I constructed a jig, 7.6mm high, on which the hull was placed. I used Fun-Tac to attach the jig to a work surface and the hull simultaneously. I inserted the swing arms with the road wheels already in place into the openings. Use a ruler and carefully ensure that the wheels are at the same height and are all aligned parallel to the hull side walls and each other, before applying the glue. Separate two-part bump-stops finish the area. On the lower front and rear plates, separate access plate, hammerhead tow shackles and their mounts, as well as finely detailed two-part cable keepers are installed.
On my sample the hull part was very roughly treated when it was withdrawn from the mold, resulting in some dings here and there; fortunately, this was easily rectified.
Very nicely-rendered separate track-guards are provided using slide-molds; this means that the mounting hardware can be properly rendered while keeping assembly simple. They also feature separate side supports, and are keyed for very positive fit into the upper hull side plate. Other separate items fitted to this area is a pair of tool boxes (on the port side), a multi-part engine air intake structure and twin exhaust muffler/pipe assemblies (on the starboard side; don’t forget to drill out the pipe’s ends), tiny wing-nuts, horn and head-lamp (with clear lens). A small rack for spare track links, some very tiny wing-nut assemblies a two-handed saw, accessory containers and other small detail parts dress up the area.
Superstructure.
The glacis plate has a separate access hatch lid and a separate driver’s hatch lid (with clear styrene internal periscope detail). A styrene tow cable is provided to be fitted to the separate tiny brackets; it is straight and must be bent to shape, without being broken. The engine deck part is separate and has molded on screens; the modeler may wish to carefully cut these away and add etched brass, or wait for a dedicated set to be released by the after-market folks. Various tools and a gun tube travel lock get fitted to this area as well. The main part needs some work to fit properly to the opening and there are several mold ejector pin marks on the visible surface that will need to be filled.
This angled rear view shows the engine cooling air slots mounted aft of the track-guards; the casemate and rear hull plates are not fixed in place.
The side plates for the gun compartment have pistol port details molded on where appropriate, while the front plate is treated in a similar manner. The fit of the front plate to the engine deck plate will need some work as the part has some rough edges that need to be cleaned up. The side plates have ejector pin marks on the inner surfaces that will need attention. The rear plate fits quite well and has a separate access door; the inner padding is there but it lacks any cloth feel and actually looks more like wood slats. On the outside, the screen is molded in place and should be replaced with an appropriate etched part. Separate tarpaulin frames and a rolled tarp (not very well done), plus an antenna and its armored guard complete the area.
Gun and Mount.
Perhaps the most disappointing area of the kit is the actual gun. Several tubular items that should circular in cross section are in fact oval shapes. This includes the two-part muzzle brake and the piston that fits into the recuperator cylinder. The muzzle brake is difficult to rectify, while the piston should simply be cut away and the parts assembled in the “in battery” position. The recuperator cylinder is roughly molded and will need a bit of work. The gun tube will need care in assembly and cleaning to maintain proper shape and to keep its proper round cross section. The entire assembly fits poorly to the recoil slide, so again, it is recommended that all is glued in place so the gun does not recoil. The separate breech block has sink marks that will need filling. The pin at the bottom of the cradle, which allows the gun to move in azimuth, will not fit into its corresponding opening; the latter must be carefully drilled out to fit.
The external armored sleeve that covers the gun has some mold-induced distortion and will need careful clean-up as well as some filler. Comparing the sleeve to drawings in reference 4, below, reveals that it is too short. However, I have no dimensions to compare it to so do not know which is correct: the kit or the scale drawings. The inner shields do not fit well together or to the outer shield. This is largely a result of the delicacy of their frames as well as to the softness of the styrene used; lots of tweaking will be in order.
The 76.2mm Zis-3 has many issues as described in the text; note how the recuperator cylinder was hacked off so the gun will fit inside the armored sleeve.
Perhaps the biggest issue is that when assembled, the gun itself will not fit into the sleeve/shield assembly. Stave Zaloga simply suggests that the modeler hack off the parts of the gun that do not fit, since once in place, much of what is provided will never be seen any way. In addition, he suggests using the old Italeri/Zvesda Zis-3 gun to replace the muzzle brake and gun tube. For this review I followed his advice regarding the former, and am now hunting for an Italeri kit to address the latter.
Fighting Compartment.
The open fighting compartment is a highlight of this type of vehicle; it would appear that the kit captures the look and features of this area quite well. Various bulkheads, panels and trunking are installed, as are ammo racks with separate 76mm rounds. Two types of ammunition are supplied, all with clips molded in place. The base of each round must be trimmed flush with the side of the cartridge case, as the rim will prevent the round from lining up properly within its rack. The radio fit is given as are various seats, small arms ammo racks and cans, PPsh sub-machine guns, clear styrene periscopes, frames, stowage boxes and bins. Naturally, some fine details can be added particularly where the radios are concerned.
Figures.
A total of five full figures are included in the box, depicting a Red Army crew. Two are wearing greatcoats; the remainder wears quilted uniforms. All are depicted serving the gun with a gunner and loader inside the vehicle, while the two ammunition handlers and the commander are standing outside. Several 76.2mm rounds are given; these are without clamps and are suitable for use with the figures. These guys are nicely-animated and are fairly well-molded; they certainly stand up well compared to most styrene figures on the market with the exception of the latest DML Gen2 figures. Heads are separate and are topped by three-piece padded helmets; other separate items include the commander’s holstered side-arm and his map case. Each figure is made up of five main parts (right and left arms, right and left legs, and torso) with separate heads and hands, which allows for a high degree of detail. The figures wearing greatcoats have separate coat tails so the proper undercuts can be replicated. Add some resin replacement heads and with care in painting, these figures will look quite presentable.
The figures are broken down in a conventional manner and are up to current standards for molding and detail. Note the 76.2mm rounds for use of the gun crew.
Molding, Fit and Engineering.
Overall, the molding, fit and engineering of some parts in this kit are not up to today’s standards. In other places, the standard is more than acceptable; some assemblies are downright outstanding. Basically this translates into some extra work for the modeler; his skills will indeed be tested. The clear sprue that contains periscopes and head-lamp lens was absent from my review sample.
Accuracy and Details.
I have noted a few issues such as incorrect road-wheels (and by extension the idler wheels, which are identical) and possibly an armored gun sleeve that is too short. As for the details, whatever etched brass set will be offered for this kit will certainly include various mesh screening, which is certainly an area ripe for improvement.
Instructions.
The instructions contain clearly-rendered construction steps, while a separate leaflet contains full-color profile views of the painting and markings schemes. The five crew figures also have full-color painting instructions with a large, clear depiction of each one of them. Colors are keyed to Humbrol, Revell, Testors and Tamiya paints, while the text is bi-lingual (English and Russian/Ukranian). The box-top art is also rather attractive and the packaging is well-done and robust.
The water-slide decals are accompanied by nicely-rendered, full-color painting instructions.
Decals and Markings Information.
Water-slide decals are supplied for five assault guns. They are sharply-printed, perfectly in register and have very good color saturation; carrier film is thin and matte, and surrounds the individual design. The guns depicted are:
1. White A-514/2, 11th Guards Army, East Prussia 1944.
2. White 2/314/11, unidentified unit, East Prussia 1945.
3. White 1659, 1238th SPG Regiment, Poland 1945.
4. White 31, 1448th SPG Regiment, Poland 1944.
5. White 14/2, 1223rd SPG Regiment, Lithuania 1944.
All guns are painted overall Dark Green Shade 4BO, while references verify schemes 1, 2 and 5. The chosen schemes are all rather interesting, with number 2 being the most colorful of the lot.
Conclusion.
There is an excess amount of molding and fit problems in this kit, which together take a great subject and place it into the realm of the mediocre. Unfortunately this may put off some modelers, especially those accustomed to the more sophisticated kits coming out of Asia. Fortunately, nearly all of these issues can be remedied using modeling skill, patience and determination.
Recommended with reservations.
Frank V. Curley Stooge De Sisto
References consulted for this review included, but were not limited to:
1. Polish Armoured Forces at the Eastern Front 1943-1945; Pegaz-Bis, by Z. Lalak.
2. Wozy Bojowy LWP; WMON, by J. Magnuski.
3. Sowietcka Artyleria Samobiezna 1941-1945; Wydawnictwo Militaria 171, by M. Kolomiyets & M. Makarow.
4. SU-76; Wydawnictwo Militaria 260, by A. Czubaczin.
5. Camouflage of the Tanks of the Red Army 1930-1945; Armada Press, by M. Kolomiyets & I. Moshchanskiy.
6. Soviet Tanks and Combat Vehicles of World War 2; Arms & Armour Press, by S. Zaloga & J. Grandsen.
7. The Eastern Front, Armor Camouflage and Markings 1941 to 1945; Squadron 6102, by S. Zaloga & J. Grandsen.
8. The Red Army of the Great Patriotic War 1941-45; Osprey Men-at-Arms 216, by S. Zaloga.
9. Russian Tanks 1900-1970; Galahad Books, by J. Milsom.
10. Samokhodnaya Ustanovka 76, the Soviet SU-76 Self-Propelled Gun Variants; Bellona Military Vehicle Prints Series 35, by D.P. Dyer.
11. Plany Modelarskie 23; Scale plans and detail drawing set edited by J. Magnuski.
Delete abwehrabwehr from email.
