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WIP of Hasegawa 1/48 F-4J to an early F-4B (again).

June 8 2012 at 1:28 PM

  (Login Bravosierra001)
HyperScale Forums
from IP address 75.52.71.167

I originally started this project for the CONA group build over at Zone 5 and got it to the point of glossing it up for decals. However I noticed that the port wing was warped. At first I thought I could live with it, but it just kept bugging me. So one day I decided to try and fix it with a little heat. I am sure you guys know how this one will play out.I will not go into details, but let's just say that all that remains of that build is the starboard wing which I kept as a scribing reference, and the few parts I will need to build the next attempt. Besides the next attempt will be better anyway, or that is what I had in my mind as I took the hammer to the old one!!! On to the next attempt!! Here is Stage I had the last attempt up to.
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I started this out as I do most of my builds, and that would be with the cockpit. I opted again to use the Aires F-4B/N resin offering, spiced up with some spare Eduard PE. I cut a small section of th Eduard PE for the rear IP, and cut and tweaked the front IP PE for the front pit. I know it is a little oversized, but I like the looks of it, and with the seats in and windscreen on I think it will look ok. Sorry fellas but I did not take any pics of the painting process, but here are some shots of it just loose in the fuselage. As you can see the Aires pit really fits nice with a little work.

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After I got the pit done I began to modify the kit parts. I began with the bottom of the wing by removing the bulges with a file and then sanding smooth. This is a really simple process, and is done in about 30 minutes. I also at this point modified the horiz stab fin cap.
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Now to the tops of the wings. I begin this by scraping off with a razor the wheel well bulges.I also removed the fairings that are over the trunion, for the paticular F-4B I am doing did not yet have them.

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To smooth out the transition of the area where I removed the bulge to the straight area I taped off and generously applied Tamiya 2 part modeling putty. This putty is more or less like bondo. I use it over conventional putties for the fact that after it dries and is sanded very smooth will scribe like plastic.

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While waiting for the putty to cure I moved onto the seamless intakes. I decided to give the D-mold set I had a try. I chined derilled the intake area and opened up the intake area for the installation of the intakes. The D-Mold offerings slipped right in with no need for sanding or modifying unlike the CE and Rhino sets I have. As you can see the fit in the second picture as the intake is in place with no glue.
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After the putty cured up on the upper wing surfaces I sanded it down to a really smooth surface final grit was 3000 wet sanded.
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After it was said and done it was pretty flat and looked the part.
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I now started to rescribe the upper wing surfaces to match the B's more closely. It went alot smoother this time, for I took the surviving wing and photocopied it to make a pattern. This cut out all of the measuring and guess work. I then used a scribing template that I had made for my first attempt, and scribed the lines with a Tamiya scriber for nice light slag free lines.

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I now glued in the pit, which also fit very nicely, with minimal gap around the edges.

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Glued the fuselage together, and temp installed the wings.

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So far I like what I see with the wing modifications and to me they look the part. While working on the seams on the fuselage, and dry fitting the bottom wing my attention drew the aux doors on the belly. Getting the idea from Andrew Perren's awesome Greek F-4 build I wanted to do something with that area to liven it up a bit, but I wanted to do something a little more visiable if at all possible. While flipping through my reference book I ran across this pic that showed a actuator and a placard that was semi visiable. So that was it, that is wht I would do to my aux doors.
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So I bent me up some actuator attach fittings using some spare PE fret. Then I turned some alum. tubing to thin it down and I beveled the end to more represnt an actuator. I made the actuator arms from some small diameter plastic rod. I flattened the end some and rounded off the edges so that they would fit between the little fittings I had made
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I then painted them up and installed them, along with two spare placards I got out of the PE spares box.
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they came out ok, and spiced uop the doors a little. You will not be able to see as much as these macro pics show, but they give the general idea.

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Now to start the fuselage and nose section.

Brandon





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This message has been edited by Bravosierra001 from IP address 75.52.71.167 on Jun 8, 2012 1:56 PM
This message has been edited by Bravosierra001 from IP address 75.52.71.167 on Jun 8, 2012 1:34 PM


 
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