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Click here for how to make a seat pan from a shovel!

Using off the shelf paint in touch-up spray gun . . .

by suddley (Login Ishmash47)
Horsemen

Any one do that successfully? Such as Rustoleum in the pint cans, etc. I did some airbrushing in the seventies, and have some familiarity with thinning paint for air guns, etc. I just got a little touch-up gun and plan to paint me tank and fenders on Chop Sooooweeee. I did buy the gun from the local automotive finishes supply house, they can custom mix colors down to 8 ounces, which would be my choice if not too expensive (unemployed). Any helpful advice would be appreciated, thanks.

Here's a tank that I did with aerosol cans about 10 years ago.

[linked image]

"Life Is Short, Make It Enjoyable"

Posted on Dec 11, 2009, 1:45 PM
from IP address 166.203.15.58


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Pipes

by SHOP RAT (Login rookie-80)
Horsemen

Can pipes be powder coated? Looking to fab up some new ones, have had luck with vht paint but tired of doing it every year or so. Looking for a more permanent route.

YOU ARE FREE BECAUSE OF THEE

Posted on Dec 11, 2009, 1:21 PM
from IP address 74.37.221.72


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my powdercoater

by Scott McKelvey (Login velvets)
Horsemen

said they have some good hi-temp powders now, but he wasn't comfortable enough to recommend using one on exhaust last time I had stuff done (last spring). I've done ceramicoat 3 times and dig the results, but it's not cheap.

Scott McKelvey smckelvey@velvetcustoms.com
www.velvetcustoms.com
http://community.webshots.com/user/shovel084

Posted on Dec 11, 2009, 1:52 PM
from IP address 67.129.115.13


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Drag Specialties Tach

by H (Login Gascap)

Picked up a used tach yesterday. It's a Drag Specialties 2 1/2 inch with two cables coming out the back. One cable has red-green-black-blue wires inside and the other has red-green-black. Both cables connect to a small box that looks to be handlebar mounted with a red pushbutton on it. Any idea what this setup is?

Posted on Dec 11, 2009, 10:14 AM
from IP address 99.12.79.104


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tach

by (Login 62pan-nut)
Horsemen

Just a guess but points would take a different hookup than electronic ignition. Also would account for extra wires

Posted on Dec 11, 2009, 10:49 AM
from IP address 216.178.50.215


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tach

by Bluto (Login Bluto-001)
Horsemen

the little control box is for changing the color of the back light in the tach - its a fucking dumb thing to add to a tach but I guess its come kind of sales gimmick - get the back light color you want and just leave it

Posted on Dec 11, 2009, 2:11 PM
from IP address 150.176.96.3


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tach

by (Login Bluto-001)
Horsemen

you can find these tachs on eaby - just look them up and they will have a description of the tach - any numbers and a short explanation of what the little red button is for - changing colors for the back lighting - "oh how cool"

Posted on Dec 11, 2009, 2:14 PM
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Thanks Bluto

by H (Login Heckrazor)
Horsemen

A lot of extra wiring for something so stupid.

Posted on Dec 11, 2009, 2:32 PM
from IP address 99.12.79.104


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Electrical problem no spark then spark

by (Login harderfasterchoppers)
Horsemen

I have an 84 shovel its getting no spark when turning over but when you turn the switch to the on position the spark plug will fire then and only then. ran fine a year ago whats up with that bad switch or what I hate electrical most time consuming thing there is on a bike any help will be greatly app. thanks SA

Posted on Dec 11, 2009, 9:48 AM
from IP address 24.208.160.247


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Ignition?

by 62pan-nut (Login 62pan-nut)
Horsemen

You running electronic ignition or points. If power stays at switch[use tester to check] I would check coil 1st then the module.

Posted on Dec 11, 2009, 10:35 AM
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It has electronic ing. has a new coil

by (Login harderfasterchoppers)
Horsemen

no miles on the coil the bike had been sitting 5 years but did start fine this past spring.

Posted on Dec 11, 2009, 10:58 AM
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If it has an electronic ignition module from the factory

by John A (Login fxrt)
Horsemen

Like on my 84 EVO. There is a built in delay for when you "push the button and when the module will give spark.
This circut can go bad and the rest of the module can be OK.

In my case the bike would sometimes start when you "released" the started button. When you release the button the circut will give spark. I could get the bike started withy a few tries. I replace the module and all is OK.
I don't know if the shovels used the same system as the EVO's
It it is the module you will have to buy a install kit for the new module.
The old ones are hard wired and the new ones are plug in.

Good luck



Posted on Dec 11, 2009, 10:39 AM
from IP address 75.225.118.184


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getting no spark hitting the button just when you turn the switch on

by (Login harderfasterchoppers)
Horsemen



Posted on Dec 11, 2009, 10:59 AM
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Any power to the coil while turning over? If not its the

by John A (Login fxrt)
Horsemen

Module.
If you can push start it and it fire up and runs. Its the module.


Posted on Dec 11, 2009, 12:36 PM
from IP address 75.225.118.184


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i tahnk everyone who reply I will try what you all told me to thanks SA

by (Login harderfasterchoppers)
Horsemen



Posted on Dec 11, 2009, 4:21 PM
from IP address 24.208.160.247


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Thats suppose to say Thanks SA

by (Login harderfasterchoppers)
Horsemen



Posted on Dec 11, 2009, 4:22 PM
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Little advice on tranny

by Shovit Man (Login greg5003)
Horsemen

Hi, newbie here. Just got a 77 lowrider. Son and I are starting to chop it.I wanted to pull the tranny out in one piece. was told that would be a good idea.The whole thing is loose,except right at the lower primary. Were the clutch is. I don't see or feel a bolt but there has to be one some were.I'm building off of the floor like alot of guys, so it is a little hard to get my fat head under there.Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Greg

Posted on Dec 10, 2009, 7:44 PM
from IP address 76.97.116.84


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If what I'm reading is correct,,,

by Steve Taylor (Login TaylorMadeVtwins)
Horsemen

You need to remove the inner primary. Prolly oil tank also.

Posted on Dec 10, 2009, 7:50 PM
from IP address 75.219.106.55


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Tranny

by Shovit Man (Login greg5003)
Horsemen

The only thing left on the frame is the tranny and motor.Chain is off, wires are all discoed. I can lift up on the tranny but something I can not see witch seems to be on or near rear of clutch basket. I just can not seem to see or feel anything. Thanks greg

Posted on Dec 10, 2009, 8:56 PM
from IP address 76.97.116.84


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You DO realize,

by (Login TaylorMadeVtwins)
Horsemen

That the trans. mount plate HAS TO come off with the trans. as one unit. You cannot remove trans without the plate attached to the trans. Hope this helps, Steve.

Posted on Dec 10, 2009, 9:06 PM
from IP address 75.219.106.55


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Thanks.

by Shovit Man (Login greg5003)
Horsemen



Posted on Dec 10, 2009, 10:04 PM
from IP address 76.97.116.84


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Need Advice: I got an FXWG 80-83 front wheel and 41 mm wide glide forks...

by (Login SoCalRedNeck)
Horsemen

I plan on running an Evo single-cyl. front brake only with the setup. Now, I need a front axle. There are two, I figure, to chose from--the 80-83 FXWG type and the 84-99 FXST type. What should I do?

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You don't like my bike? YOU aren't supposed to like my bike!

Posted on Dec 10, 2009, 10:40 AM
from IP address 165.24.253.150


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Sent the answer on the wrong forum right there with you...

by (Login Nick-O)
Horsemen

but it should get to you.....!

Posted on Dec 10, 2009, 12:35 PM
from IP address 71.54.155.5


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So, I'm thinking...

by (Login SoCalRedNeck)
Horsemen

that if the sliders are originally set up for Evo FXST--then that is the axle I should get and to space and shim the wheel from there.

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You don't like my bike? YOU aren't supposed to like my bike!

Posted on Dec 10, 2009, 1:50 PM
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Yep, that is what I was thinking too

by (Login Nick-O)
Horsemen

if you have any pictures of the sliders, might be able to confirm year if any question. Trying to think of the machining on 80-83 lowers...

Posted on Dec 10, 2009, 3:06 PM
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Well the 80-83 FXWG had those little dual rotor brakes...

by Axle (Login SoCalRedNeck)
Horsemen

which were not that affective, I understand--a different mount than the single-pot Evo type, I'm pretty sure. Can't think of too much that wouldn't be taken care of by spacing.

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You don't like my bike? YOU aren't supposed to like my bike!

Posted on Dec 10, 2009, 4:09 PM
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ive run the stock dual disc 1980 -1982 setup for

by (Login hdshovel82)
Horsemen

over 20 yrs and never had a problem with the 10 in rotors.used them on both 35mm and 41 mm.use them if youve got them already

Posted on Dec 10, 2009, 4:45 PM
from IP address 69.113.71.122


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Depends on the sliders, FXST slider mounts might not match up to 10" rotors....

by (Login Nick-O)
Horsemen

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Posted on Dec 10, 2009, 5:55 PM
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Using an 11.5" rotor*

by Axle (Login SoCalRedNeck)
Horsemen

*

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You don't like my bike? YOU aren't supposed to like my bike!

Posted on Dec 10, 2009, 8:07 PM
from IP address 207.200.116.130


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clutch plates

by steeltoedsneakers (Login steeltoedsneakers)
Horsemen

i'm planning on getting rid of the primary cover on my HD its a 74 flh and i'm just wondering how long will the wet clutches last running open i do plan on getting a dry clutch but i've been wondering about this for a while

Posted on Dec 10, 2009, 12:30 AM
from IP address 75.92.15.3


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It's not the clutch I'd worry about,

by Steve Taylor (Login TaylorMadeVtwins)
Horsemen

It's the chain tensioner.

Posted on Dec 10, 2009, 8:17 AM
from IP address 75.219.184.139


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Re: It's not the clutch I'd worry about,

by (Login steeltoedsneakers)
Horsemen

i think i have the chain tensioner figured out i just gotta get me a fabkevin torque plate and a skateboard wheel

Posted on Dec 10, 2009, 6:59 PM
from IP address 75.92.15.3


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That chain still likes a bit of oil

by (Login 8082)
Horsemen

if it's a distance rider.

707

[linked image]

Posted on Dec 10, 2009, 7:06 PM
from IP address 76.5.170.97


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starter clutch replacement

by (Login Bluto-001)
Horsemen

have to replace the starter clutch in my evo starter (89 to 93 primary) stock starter (Ultima) any thing I should know before I start this - any special tools needed - any advice that I should know before starting the job - never replaced one before so any advice is helpful - anything I whould watch out for - do's or don'ts - thanks for any advice

Posted on Dec 9, 2009, 3:34 PM
from IP address 75.145.62.105


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there is a bb inside the jackshaft

by Scot229 (Login Scot229)
Horsemen

don't loose it and make sure to transfer it to the new part if you get the kit that includes a new shaft (hd kits have the new shaft and clutch) The bb is behind the long spring that goes into the starter solenoid.

Posted on Dec 10, 2009, 12:09 AM
from IP address 96.24.85.99


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5 speed XL1200 belt to chain

by (Login h.tom)
Horsemen

What size sprockets would be best? Not going drag racing but want to keep up.
Pretty much stock engine and frame.

Posted on Dec 9, 2009, 12:16 PM
from IP address 74.227.99.228


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I think if you log onto Bakers site......

by (Login wilbertsmith)
Horsemen

they have a calculator for figuring out rpm and speed for various gearing options. Without knowing exactly what you are looking for, that should give you the best idea.

"There are three -and only three- kinds of people in this world: those who don't know they're damaged and blame others; those who realize they're damaged and blame others; and then people like you and me, who wear damage like comfortable pajamas."

Posted on Dec 9, 2009, 1:31 PM
from IP address 68.26.99.178


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I like 21 front and 48 rear...

by (Login 007rjb)
Horsemen

for a good all around ratio myself.


007



Posted on Dec 9, 2009, 11:19 PM
from IP address 24.245.87.46


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I'm running a 22/26 but have a tall 18" rear tire

by woodhawg (Login woodhawg)
Horsemen

and only 400 pound bike, but my lard ass is 250. Mine will cruise at 75 or so pretty comfortably, Gets buzzy at 80. Will pull 110 and still climbing when I let off. Motor is sporty 1200 bottom and Buell top.

Posted on Dec 10, 2009, 2:32 PM
from IP address 65.6.150.237


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Thanks for the replies

by (Login h.tom)
Horsemen

No one mentioned the 23T sprocket I keep seeing so many of.
When installing it do you just use the same spacer that was behind the belt sprocket/pulley?
I'm ignorant about this late model stuff,but its fun messin' with it. Kinda like getting some strange....

Posted on Dec 11, 2009, 10:42 AM
from IP address 74.227.99.228


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old tank sealer

by (Login 80Ironhead)

This is my first post here, but i read the tech board all the time. I think one of you can help me, i got some used fatbob tanks with some sealer in them, and its peeling off in the left tank. Doe's anyone here know how to get that stuff out? Thanks

Posted on Dec 9, 2009, 2:48 AM
from IP address 98.30.76.119


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Several techniques have been discussed here....

by (Login wilbertsmith)
Horsemen

do a search for tank sealer, and you should have several posts come up with techniques to get rid of it. I haven't had to deal with it myself, but I do remember reading numerous posts on here about it.

"There are three -and only three- kinds of people in this world: those who don't know they're damaged and blame others; those who realize they're damaged and blame others; and then people like you and me, who wear damage like comfortable pajamas."

Posted on Dec 9, 2009, 6:02 AM
from IP address 68.26.82.119


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Acetone and

by (Premier Login ripperproductions)
Horsemen

fish tank gravel or nuts and bolts. Plug all holes except the gas cap (put your hand over that, in a solvent-proof glove) and shake, shake, shake....... Repeat as necessary (it may take awhile). Rinse with clear acetone, then gas (make sure all of your "cleaning agents" are removed). Check for leaks. If none, fill up and go...... If you choose to re-line, post back.


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Posted on Dec 9, 2009, 12:00 PM

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Link here...

by (Premier Login ripperproductions)
Horsemen

More info and safety tips......

http://www.ripper1.com/tech/rusty_tanks.php

 




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Posted on Dec 9, 2009, 12:01 PM

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Thanks

by 80Ironhead (Login 80Ironhead)

i'll give it a try. I actually have your link bookmarked, but i didn't think that would work for sealer. Thanks for the help.

Posted on Dec 9, 2009, 4:06 PM
from IP address 98.30.76.119


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Whatever you do....

by (Login choppadude)
Horsemen

Dont try to burn it out!
I tried to do that in my powdercoating oven in the shop and about killed myself with the fumes. Had to let it air out for a couple hours afterwards even with the overhead door open.
That is some toxic shit!

Posted on Dec 11, 2009, 5:20 PM
from IP address 69.205.137.206


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Wheel Swap Help Needed - '02 Fatboy - '76 FLH

by (Login Toby78)
Horsemen


Want to put a set of '02 Fatboy wheels and brakes on my 76 FLH to replace the old wheels and the rotten banana's

The front wheel and brake is no prob as I'm changing the front end, its the rear wheel swap Im concerned about.

The rear brake should be fairly easy to set-up and I know I'll have to get the FLH sprocket hole enlarged to mount it on the 02 Fatboy wheel but other than that, does anyone know if the wheel will be centered in the swingarm and have the sprocket line up??

Figure'd I would ask for help just in case I rip it all apart only to find out I cant do it unless I get a bunch of machine shop work done. I'm sure someone out there has figured this out already and hopefully wont mind sharing the info.

Thanks!!

Posted on Dec 9, 2009, 1:51 AM
from IP address 69.159.218.203


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As far as the wheel being centered and the....

by (Login wilbertsmith)
Horsemen

sprocket lining up, worst case you may have to change, or make your own wheel spacers. Not real difficult or time consuming. For the sprocket, if it does not line up perfectly, you can get shims to space the pulley/ sprocket from the wheel in different widths. My big concern would be that they changed to the sealed type wheel bearings for the 02, and you want to make sure that the axles are the same diameter. As long as the axles are the same diameter, you should be able to easily make it work.

"There are three -and only three- kinds of people in this world: those who don't know they're damaged and blame others; those who realize they're damaged and blame others; and then people like you and me, who wear damage like comfortable pajamas."

Posted on Dec 9, 2009, 6:09 AM
from IP address 68.26.82.119


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Fat Boy was still 3/4" at that time

by (Premier Login ripperproductions)
Horsemen

Alignment should be the only issue, and you covered that already.


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Posted on Dec 9, 2009, 12:04 PM

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I did that on mine..

by Markmax (Login markmax)
Horsemen

And other than enlarging the rotor,it was fairly painless. I did make new wheel spacers,because I didn't want to dick around, trying to find something that would work. Easy swap..good luck!

Posted on Dec 9, 2009, 2:25 PM
from IP address 74.65.64.47


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Need some help getting a bearing race off...

by (Login hogluvr)
Horsemen

Pulled apart the Joe Hunt mag I'm putting on the Shovel, it didn't feel smooth when I turned it by hand. Bearings were shot, decided to replace them. Pulled the points plate off and the inner race is stuck to the rotor. Is this supposed to be pressed on, or should the bearing slip on to the rotor? And how the hell do I get this thing off? I put the rotor in a soft-jawed vice and was able to turn the race with a pair of vise-grips, but that's all it does is turn, I have no good way to pull it. Suggestions??


[IMG][linked image][/IMG]

Posted on Dec 8, 2009, 5:03 PM
from IP address 71.74.224.231


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bearing race

by (Login harderfasterchoppers)
Horsemen

do you have any type of press or a buddy that has one you could weld tabs on the race block it up and press the rest of the mag off or out of the race thats what I would do. But I do have all the equipment in my shop hope this helps SA

Posted on Dec 8, 2009, 6:00 PM
from IP address 24.208.160.247


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Would heat affect the rotor?

by (Login hogluvr)
Horsemen

Didn't think about welding, but thought about putting a little heat on the race to expand it, have had to do stuff like that to get them off of spent wheel bearings on cars. Dunno if any kind of heat would mess up the rotor though, and those things ain't cheap...

Posted on Dec 8, 2009, 7:23 PM
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rotor

by (Login harderfasterchoppers)
Horsemen

you could wrap the rotor in a damp rag with some ice in it. I would tig weld if you have the machine it wont take much to weld thats probably only .002 press fit if that much SA

Posted on Dec 8, 2009, 11:11 PM
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TRY.................

by (Login LARGEJAMES)
Horsemen

Running a bead along the race with a TIG welder, the heat should expand the race and it should slide right off.
TIG welding, the heat will be concentrated at the weld, no need to worry about damage.

If this fails, a Dremel tool with a cut off wheel, will split the side fairly easily.

DO YOU LISTEN TO BIKER RADIO MAGAZINE?[linked image]
http://www.bikerradiomagazine.com

Posted on Dec 9, 2009, 12:08 AM
from IP address 69.209.53.17


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danger...

by dan r (Login danr)
Horsemen

if you weld around a race it will SHRINK. that's a fun way to remove neck, wheel, and any other race that's pressed into a bore. they shrink.

don't whack it with a hammer either, screws with the magnets.

careful work with a whiz wheel carving the race will heat it as it gets thin where your carving. once it's thin and warming up it should slide off.

some of the older guys here may have seen bearing race removal from a shaft with a carbon ark torch. it works very fast but good look finding one these days.

'stupid signature words go here'

Posted on Dec 9, 2009, 1:00 AM
from IP address 70.210.35.245


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When........................

by (Login LARGEJAMES)
Horsemen

The race is pressed onto a shaft, heating the race will expand it causing it to slide off.

Pressed into a bore, weld and let cool, race will shrink and fall out.

DO YOU LISTEN TO BIKER RADIO MAGAZINE?[linked image]
http://www.bikerradiomagazine.com

Posted on Dec 9, 2009, 1:06 AM
from IP address 69.209.53.17


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Small Bearing Splitter

by (Login Elvirasguy)
Horsemen

should do it. It will get in that crack between the brg. and the rotor, and give you sumpin' that you can get a bite on.

Posted on Dec 9, 2009, 6:47 AM
from IP address 70.113.193.254


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Tack weld....

by Dennis..73sho (Login ..73sho)
Horsemen

a small piece of metal to the race. Put your rotor in a vice, with it able to spin on the shaft you're half way there now. When you tack that piece of metal to the race you will expand the race enough for it to slide off and that little piece of metal will give you something to "peck" on to git it moving. Try to move fast before the heat goes to the shaft and swells it up too. When you put the bearing back on, "warm" the inner race with a propane torch or a welding tip on an oxy/acet. Put the rotor in the vice, make sure it's cool, stand the bearing on edge and "warm" the inside race to about 150 degrees. It should just drop on to the shaft. When it cools and shrinks, it should be tight. You don't want to over heat the bearing and cook the grease out of it. Good luck.

Posted on Dec 9, 2009, 12:08 PM
from IP address 70.245.178.119


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Thanks for the ideas guys...

by (Login hogluvr)
Horsemen

I'll give 'em a try!

Posted on Dec 9, 2009, 6:45 PM
from IP address 71.74.224.231


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DON'T WELD

by (Login Elvirasguy)
Horsemen

anything on the rotor. If you weld with any type of electric welder, it will instantly de-magnetize the part!!!!!!

Been there.

Posted on Dec 10, 2009, 6:50 AM
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Supplier for air filter elements?

by Grady (Login Gradyhd)
Horsemen

Does anyone have or know of a supplier for a special size air filter element? I need a round element, 3 1/16 od x 2 1/4 id x 1 7/8 tall. I could even use a part no. that would match that size. I've tried to google for a supplier and all the parts stores around here are helpless without a part no.

*If you're not living on the edge, you're just taking up space*

Posted on Dec 8, 2009, 1:46 PM
from IP address 155.130.107.41


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look on K&N website they have special sized ones***

by (Login woodhawg)
Horsemen

*

Posted on Dec 8, 2009, 3:53 PM
from IP address 65.6.150.237


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Sprocket offset?

by feets (Login feets)
Horsemen

I need an offset back sprocket. The sprocket looks like it is offset to the tranny sprocket by the width of the sprocket, appx. 1/4". Not sure what degree offset i need.
Thanks.

Posted on Dec 8, 2009, 1:03 PM
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Actually, there is a spacer they used.....

by (Login wilbertsmith)
Horsemen

on some models that is about that width. Just a small round piece that goes between the wheel and the sprocket. Might be what you need. They also sell them to compensate for transmission offsets, I think.

"There are three -and only three- kinds of people in this world: those who don't know they're damaged and blame others; those who realize they're damaged and blame others; and then people like you and me, who wear damage like comfortable pajamas."

Posted on Dec 8, 2009, 1:32 PM
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Thought about that.

by feets (Login feets)
Horsemen

The 2" flanged center is not wide enough. The sprocket would run off the center.
Thanks

Posted on Dec 8, 2009, 2:40 PM
from IP address 24.74.119.45


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Oh shit

by feets (Login feets)
Horsemen

I see what u are talking about now. I found a 1/4" offset spacer, but it fits a 84 to 99 model. It has the 2" center just don't know if the bolt hole pattern is the same.

Posted on Dec 8, 2009, 5:29 PM
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Just looked in an old Drag catalog.....

by (Login wilbertsmith)
Horsemen

and they have the units I was talking about, the stock type steel spacer shims. They are listed in five different widths; .045", .200", .250", and .300" and are listed as fitting 76- 99 models. Part #'s are as follows: .045" (oem # 41814-76) drag #DS-325450, .200" (oem # 40932-81) drag # DS-199458, .250 (no oem # listed) Drag # 199459, .300" (no oem # listed) Drag # DS-199464. For an offset of approximately 1/4" as you mentioned you are looking for. These #'s are from the 2005 Drag Specialties catalog. Hope this helps.

"There are three -and only three- kinds of people in this world: those who don't know they're damaged and blame others; those who realize they're damaged and blame others; and then people like you and me, who wear damage like comfortable pajamas."

Posted on Dec 8, 2009, 10:03 PM
from IP address 72.57.3.221


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All i can find

by feets (Login feets)
Horsemen

so far is a .530 offset sprocket.

Posted on Dec 8, 2009, 5:10 PM
from IP address 24.74.119.45


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I will look in the mornig I had a .250 spacer I used on my bike

by (Login harderfasterchoppers)
Horsemen

if I still have it I will mail it to you it was a arlen ness spacer SA
I have a .437 right next to my comp. dont know why its in the house.

Posted on Dec 8, 2009, 11:16 PM
from IP address 24.208.160.247


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Thanks

by feets (Login feets)
Horsemen

Thanks for all the info Will. Sa if u have the spacer i will buy it from u.
People helping people. Doesn't get any better than that.

Posted on Dec 9, 2009, 3:00 AM
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HEY FEETS I FOUND IT

by (Login harderfasterchoppers)
Horsemen

give me your address and I will get it in the mail thanks Scott SA morris

Posted on Dec 9, 2009, 1:02 PM
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E/mail sent

by feets (Login feets)
Horsemen

Thanks again man. Put a note in with shipping amount, and price. Everything is worth something.
feets

Posted on Dec 9, 2009, 3:22 PM
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Police bike tires

by (Login Sporty57)

I'm looking at possibly buying a used ex-police bike. Iwas told that I should avoid these things because of
the fact that they use special tires and wheels. Apparently, if I was to put a normal tire on the bike without
changing the wheels too, the shop doing it could lose their license. I was told this has something to do with
some legal crap from Harley. Is this true, or is this just some kind of rumour? These bikes seem to be a real
good deal. Anybody ever heard this? Ron

Posted on Dec 8, 2009, 11:18 AM
from IP address 174.118.136.7


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No

by (Login crazypan)
Horsemen

The deal is the tires are run flats. Somewhere on the net there is a good article about it.

Posted on Dec 8, 2009, 11:30 AM
from IP address 72.43.63.28


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Nope, the wheels are like any other bike..........

by BadMonkeyMW (Login BadMonkeyMW)
Horsemen

The tires are so-called 'run flats' because they have a very thick/stiff sidewall so they can withstand a puncture without causing you to lose control as badly as you would with a regular tire. The wheels are stock like any other bike though, so I wouldn't let that stop you from getting the bike.

Baggers: Choppers for Pussies

Posted on Dec 8, 2009, 12:59 PM
from IP address 70.155.162.55


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My wifes had one since 03

by jpbama16 (Login jpbama16)
Horsemen

Bought my wife a 03 road king police model. bike had 1000 miles on it when she got it. She's put about 26k on it since then. Been a good bike,no problems. The original rear tire lasted about 14k before it was gone. Its a pack mule. Anytime we go anywhere I load all my crap on her bike! jpbama

Posted on Dec 8, 2009, 1:14 PM
from IP address 216.109.10.194


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And don't use snythetic oil in a HD motor,

by (Login woodhawg)
Horsemen

the bearings will spin! Have 02 FLHPI and have run both normal and police tires on wheels. Don't worry about this. YOu can get a good price on a well taken care of bike if you look around.

Posted on Dec 8, 2009, 3:56 PM
from IP address 65.6.150.237


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Re: And don't use snythetic oil in a HD motor,

by (Login LARGEJAMES)
Horsemen

The factory released a directive on the oil issue back in 1990 for Evo's.

DO YOU LISTEN TO BIKER RADIO MAGAZINE?[linked image]
http://www.bikerradiomagazine.com

Posted on Dec 9, 2009, 12:12 AM
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Re: And don't use snythetic oil in a HD motor,

by Barstool (Login barstool61)

Been using synteticoil for 35000 miles, never a problem. Also got over 30000 miles on the front police tire. Why can't they be bought?

Posted on Dec 9, 2009, 9:00 AM
from IP address 64.20.156.104


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It was a lame attempt at a joke, dealers have police tires....

by (Login woodhawg)
Horsemen

for sale. My police front lasted a long time, but I did not like the way if felt, changed to Metzler and am much happier with handling and stopping than before. Do have to change more often.

Posted on Dec 9, 2009, 9:05 AM
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Re: It was a lame attempt at a joke, dealers have police tires....

by Barstool (Login barstool61)

Was told pd's were the only ones the could buy them. Had the rear go out on me doing 65 and as anyone knows it's no fun ol went flying over my head Etc. no broken bones and got a chance to do the bike over. All was good.

Posted on Dec 9, 2009, 2:22 PM
from IP address 67.216.154.88


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Listen to the boys

by Bachus (Login bachus57)
Horsemen

Shop WILLnot intall pegs or rear seat on the bike w/runflats, thay are not rated for two up. When the tires wear, install reg. tires, they will not sell run flats to the public.

I've got an 02 FLHPI that I plan on owning for a LONG time. It's a great bike, glad I bought it, wou;d buy another if I had $$$$. They went to 103ci in 07 w/six speed. New chassis for 09.

Dan B.
Central Ks.



Posted on Dec 9, 2009, 7:18 PM
from IP address 208.4.188.67


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Re: Listen to the boys

by Barstool (Login barstool61)

Thank you, That's what I've been told. Got an '03 and like you wish had the $ would but new one. Guess have to keep this one.

Posted on Dec 10, 2009, 8:44 AM
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Not sure about other places, but

by (Premier Login ripperproductions)
Horsemen

here in NYC, the Police bikes are very well maintained and they are unloaded while still in the prime of their lives. They are "fixed" for the most minor reasons possible and new parts are used whenever they are repaired. Oil changes are done religiously. Anyone that I know that ever bought one has had nothing but good luck with them, as opposed to people I know who bought bikes off the street that went to hell not long after they got them.


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Posted on Dec 10, 2009, 4:00 PM

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Police Bike Tires

by (Login m.o.ther)
Horsemen

I'm on my 2nd ex police bike ('98 Road King, '01 Electraglide) both came with police tires which I kept 'til the rear wore out, then replaced the pair. Wheels are standard HD.

One dealer where I worked used to civilianize and accessorize police bikes before they'd put them on the floor. They'd use the take-off paint sets from putting custom paint sets on other bikes, and change out the seats, handlebar switches, and tires. Technically, if a dealer were to sell you an ex police bike with the police tires and a two up seat, he'd be liable if you blew a tire and had an accident. The police tires are not weight rated for two up riding. Whether or not you chose to ride on them would depend on how big you and your OL are and how heavy you load your bike.



Posted on Dec 10, 2009, 9:45 PM
from IP address 76.236.83.243


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Self etching primer?

by Jessechop (Login crazypan)
Horsemen

How would self etching primer work on chrome? We paint alot of car stuff with it and it is the shit, just wondering if it would make paint stay on chrome better? Figured I would ask if anyone tried it first.

Posted on Dec 8, 2009, 10:30 AM
from IP address 72.43.63.28


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Yup

by (Premier Login ripperproductions)
Horsemen

works great for chrome. You know the deal, rough it up first....


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Posted on Dec 8, 2009, 11:58 AM

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Thanks Ripper!*

by (Login crazypan)
Horsemen

nc

Posted on Dec 8, 2009, 12:28 PM
from IP address 72.43.63.28


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Homade springer

by (Login rapture505)
Horsemen

I was wondering if there were any web links/sites that anyne knows about on how to build your own springer front end? I am interested in learning more about it and posibly building my own for a project that I am planing to build for the wife.

Posted on Dec 7, 2009, 11:03 PM
from IP address 74.65.10.134


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Chopper handbook

by (Login cautioninc)
Horsemen

http://www.chopperhandbook.com



jred
caution, inc.
I'm not a real mechanic but I play one in my garage.
th_pic120706_8.jpg

Posted on Dec 8, 2009, 12:43 AM
from IP address 75.66.248.20


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Re: Chopper handbook

by (Login LARGEJAMES)
Horsemen

The main site has a builders CD for springers, I recommend it highly.
Sugerbear sells front ends, but he's real, he will answer any questions you may have.

Bitter end sells the fixin's.

DO YOU LISTEN TO BIKER RADIO MAGAZINE?[linked image]
http://www.bikerradiomagazine.com

Posted on Dec 9, 2009, 12:28 AM
from IP address 69.209.53.17


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sugar bear

by (Login hd4674)
Horsemen

In my view suger bear alredy figured out all there is to know about the
springer front end. you might want to try him.



Posted on Dec 8, 2009, 12:46 AM
from IP address 66.41.113.54


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Clutch plate question below.

by (Login hog4u)
Horsemen

I can't tell you if plates are the same or not. But the '71 and up were wet. earlier were dry.

The way I lock my clutch hub is by using a strap on the trans sprocket. See Pic 1 below. Only draw back is you have to remove your chain.

Using a locking plate in the clutch hub locks the clutch to the motor. It can still turn. So I don't think that will hold it like you want . It is needed to get the engine sprocket off however.

If you use both of the locks pictured below you can remove the Trans, Clutch and motor sprockets.

The final 2 pics show how I remove the clutch pressure plate.

Pat

Note; The pics are not of he same bike.



Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket


Posted on Dec 7, 2009, 10:29 PM
from IP address 24.162.235.32


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Thanks Pat, that helps me a LOT...

by (Login hogluvr)
Horsemen

Appreciate your input, very useful. How does that strap set-up work in the first pic? Did you make those tools yourself?

Posted on Dec 8, 2009, 4:54 PM
from IP address 71.74.224.231


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Not much to it....

by (Login hog4u)
Horsemen

Just drill 2 holes in the steel and us a piece of chain with master link on the end. Flip it to tighten. Actually I think the way it is in the photo is for tightening. (just in case someone calls me on it) wink.gif

Pat

Posted on Dec 8, 2009, 7:15 PM
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Gotcha now

by (Login hogluvr)
Horsemen

Took another look, didn't see that the piece of steel was bolted to the case, it all makes sense now! Sometimes I can be a little slow...

Posted on Dec 8, 2009, 7:21 PM
from IP address 71.74.224.231


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Pat, what do you use to pull the clutch hub?

by (Login hogluvr)
Horsemen

Service manual calls for special puller?

Posted on Dec 9, 2009, 8:15 PM
from IP address 71.74.224.231


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Sorry I don't check here every day.....

by (Login hog4u)
Horsemen

I don't remember needing a puller but it's been 2 or 3 years since I last pulled the hub.

I use a steering wheel puller it worked for everything I came across on a '72 XLCH. Transmission and engine sprock, etc. Less than $10 at any auto parts store.


[IMG][linked image][/IMG]


Posted on Dec 11, 2009, 6:40 AM
from IP address 24.162.235.32


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Is there a link or advice about how to measure the length of fork I need

by (Login SoCalRedNeck)
Horsemen

Got a softail-style frame, wheels and a triple tree. I seem to remember something about using a broom stick? Am using 16s in the front and back. Was told by a guy how vaguely remembered the needs for the frame (it was NOS), that it took a stock FXST or 2 over wide glide front end with a 21" rim. Would appreciate any help.

.
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.
.
.
.
.
.
You don't like my bike? YOU aren't supposed to like my bike!

Posted on Dec 7, 2009, 9:04 PM
from IP address 165.24.253.150


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frame

by (Login harderfasterchoppers)
Horsemen

if its a stock frame you can go 2 in under or 2 over will put the front end up a little high 2 in under will set the frame level with the ground

Posted on Dec 7, 2009, 9:21 PM
from IP address 24.208.160.247


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Even with the 16" front?*

by (Login SoCalRedNeck)
Horsemen

*

.
.
.
.
.
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.
You don't like my bike? YOU aren't supposed to like my bike!

Posted on Dec 7, 2009, 11:29 PM
from IP address 207.200.116.130


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Believe it or not

by (Premier Login ripperproductions)
Horsemen

There is very little difference in overall height between a 16" a 19" and a 21" tire in stock sizes.


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Posted on Dec 7, 2009, 11:31 PM

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Re: Is there a link or advice about how to measure the length of fork I need

by (Premier Login ripperproductions)
Horsemen

http://www.terry-zone.com/tech/fork_length.php


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Posted on Dec 7, 2009, 11:29 PM

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Thank ya, Rip. I appreciate it!*

by (Login SoCalRedNeck)
Horsemen

*

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.
.
.
.
.
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.
You don't like my bike? YOU aren't supposed to like my bike!

Posted on Dec 8, 2009, 1:51 PM
from IP address 165.24.253.150


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springer springs

by bryan (Login goddamner)
Horsemen

Im making a springer and i dont know what rate to look for in the springs. its a typical springer, two lower and two upper springs. does anyone have this information? i found a spring kit for 85 bucks but im sure i can order them direct and save. i dont need the chrome.

Posted on Dec 7, 2009, 3:11 PM
from IP address 68.65.181.84


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SPRINGER SPRINGS

by (Login FX84)
Horsemen

when i made mine,i used big diesel valve springs on the bottem and ford small block springs on top,worked fine,still does.

Posted on Dec 7, 2009, 5:04 PM
from IP address 64.143.220.132


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Here ya go.........................

by (Login LARGEJAMES)
Horsemen

Complete set 8 piece inner outer tops and bottoms chrome or parkerized, $100.00
Best to use the right parts.

http://www.45restoration.com/45restoration/product_index/springer_rebuilding.asp

DO YOU LISTEN TO BIKER RADIO MAGAZINE?[linked image]
http://www.bikerradiomagazine.com

Posted on Dec 9, 2009, 12:20 AM
from IP address 69.209.53.17


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thanks big jim

by (Login FX84)
Horsemen

thanks for the link,when i built mine in 86,none were available so i ran what i could get.

it was like that when i got here.

Posted on Dec 11, 2009, 7:51 AM
from IP address 64.143.220.132


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cv carb ?

by Bluto (Login Bluto-001)
Horsemen

got a California CV carb take-off (2003 Model) it has a voes port and a "I think a pollution vent or recirculation" port on the carb right behind the where the choke cable enters the carb - these ports have to be blocked off - My question is what is the best way to permanently block off these ports - don't need any extra air seeping into the carb

Posted on Dec 7, 2009, 2:11 PM
from IP address 150.176.96.3


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For myself, not sure if I'd want to block off anything on a carb premanently but some

by C.W. (Login C-UU)
Horsemen

possibilities include using 2-part epoxy, or a devcon (tm)type cement or a liquid alumninum/hardener product or some kind or if possible a machined and threaded in plug. All this assumes you will be using the carb on a non-evo mill of some kind/year and don't particularly need the voes. Good non permanent plugs include those heavy rubber/vinyl items used on auto carbs to plug off un-needed vacuum ports. Holley makes a kit of various sizes for that purpose-available at any good 4-wheel indie speed shop or likely through Summit Racing.

Posted on Dec 7, 2009, 4:22 PM
from IP address 216.211.15.175


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I cut the VOES fitting flush...

by RussW (Login RussW)
Horsemen

then tapped the hole for a set screw, with a dab of red Loctite. I tried just a vacuum cap, then filling the fitting with RTV sealer. If you have a spit back thru the carb, it will blow off the cap or the sealer right out of the fitting. Not the set screw, though.....

Posted on Dec 7, 2009, 7:11 PM
from IP address 96.33.161.134


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thanks for the ideas

by Bluto (Login Bluto-001)
Horsemen

*

Posted on Dec 8, 2009, 11:32 AM
from IP address 150.176.96.3


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Old HD internal throttle with SU carb

by (Login laconiatic)
Horsemen

Found an old SU carb on line and before I buy it, does anyone know if it will work with late 60's sportster internal throttle cable. It is a pull cable. I know some big twin ones with Linkert were push cables. Thanks, JA.

Posted on Dec 7, 2009, 10:51 AM
from IP address 165.123.243.168


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All the SU's I've seen......

by (Login sixball)
Horsemen

Are pull throttle, so you should be OK


Sixball

Posted on Dec 7, 2009, 11:46 AM
from IP address 205.188.117.71


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thanks

by (Login laconiatic)
Horsemen



Posted on Dec 7, 2009, 1:51 PM
from IP address 165.123.243.168


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powder coat alternatives?

by (Login dflracing)
Horsemen

i need to paint a frame. i can't use spray bomb, cant afford powder coat and dont care about looks. are there any brush-on paints that are super tough?was thinking about bed-liner or undercoat. opinions please

Coconut Customs: re-inventing the wheel one side at a time.

Posted on Dec 6, 2009, 8:28 PM
from IP address 71.162.89.158


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Eastwood Products has you covered.

by Trevor (Login Ironheadtrev)
Horsemen

Google Eastwood Products and order away. I've never had a bad experience with anything they sell.

Trevor

Posted on Dec 6, 2009, 8:58 PM
from IP address 217.163.18.2


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I'll Ditto Trevor On That

by (Login ExJaded)
Horsemen

Painted a frame (in fact the whole bike) with Eastwoods' Black Satin ChassisCoat years ago. It still looks like new. It's for restoring vintage (or any) frames to give an original looking finish. My tin has never been clearcoated. I just throw some wax at it once in a while & it still looks great.

I've used a lot of POR stuff also over the years & it's good stuff, too. You MUST follow the instructions to the letter. It's not like working with paint.

Old, worn down & still Jaded

Posted on Dec 7, 2009, 11:35 AM
from IP address 68.1.167.13


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You might look for appliance enamel

by (Login cautioninc)
Horsemen

Seems like I've heard good things about that.



jred
caution, inc.
I'm not a real mechanic but I play one in my garage.
th_pic120706_8.jpg

Posted on Dec 7, 2009, 1:03 AM
from IP address 75.66.248.20


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Re: You might look for appliance enamel

by Dennis..73sho (Login ..73sho)
Horsemen

I believe that appliance enamel is epoxy. Epoxy is tough but will not hold up to the elements and UV rays.

Posted on Dec 9, 2009, 12:23 PM
from IP address 70.245.178.119


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VHT rollbar paint

by (Login mpchopper)
Horsemen

works great and is really hard. Its in a spray can though.....

"In the teeth of all winds blowing"

Posted on Dec 7, 2009, 6:51 AM
from IP address 98.243.63.50


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Go to Agri supply

by tom whitfield (Login h.tom)
Horsemen

And check out tractor paint.It comes in cans in any tractor color. They also have thinner and hardner. Best value,if not the cheapest. Get a good fine brissle brush and paint.When you thin the paint right it won't leave brush marks.

Posted on Dec 7, 2009, 12:06 PM
from IP address 74.227.99.228


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Tractor Supply

by (Login Jimbo73)
Horsemen

thats what I used on my frame an it came out real nice!

Posted on Dec 7, 2009, 8:57 PM
from IP address 64.222.85.242


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I plan on using Tractor paint from agri supply. but I

by (Login hog4u)
Horsemen

may use rechargeable paint bombs.

Love Agri supply but there are only 7 of them. Tractor supply is close but not the same.


http://www.agrisupply.com/agri-supply-store-locations/a/80/


Pat

Posted on Dec 7, 2009, 9:26 PM
from IP address 24.162.235.32


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70's narrow springer question

by Trevor (Login Ironheadtrev)
Horsemen

My springer has always ridden well, but seems soft on bumps. I don't get the famous pogo, but it does kind of hop a little. I've seen other newer springers that had inner and outer springs. Mine has 2 small springs on top and 2 large on the bottom. Are these supposed to have inner springs? If not, is it advisable to install a set?

Thanks,

Trevor

Posted on Dec 6, 2009, 1:51 PM
from IP address 217.163.18.2


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Here ya go

by (Login LARGEJAMES)
Horsemen

Helper springs...............
http://www.45restoration.com/45restoration/product_index/springer_rebuilding.asp

DO YOU LISTEN TO BIKER RADIO MAGAZINE?[linked image]
http://www.bikerradiomagazine.com

Posted on Dec 6, 2009, 10:46 PM
from IP address 75.3.120.85


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Thank you sir!!

by Trevor (Login Ironheadtrev)
Horsemen



Posted on Dec 7, 2009, 5:53 AM
from IP address 217.163.18.2


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also

by (Select Login tizard)
Horsemen

do the springers with the shock on it handle better? i saw some television shows and man do some of them things bounce.

Posted on Dec 7, 2009, 12:40 PM
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to better get an idea of what you have, post a pic......

by LightninMike (Login LightninMike)
Horsemen

trying to tell you whether or not to add or take anything away on the description of "a springer" is not helpful to you.........
now you say it feels soft, but then it hops....... IMO, those are opposites of the same thing, so i guess i am not understanding what is going on with it.....
before you add of subtract anything on un-informed advice, let us really help you....what kind of springer?....length??.... type of bike and rake of frame???....type of front wheel tire combo????

these will all contribute to what you need to have in your setup..... and yes, it can be that time consuming to go through that many things to get it set up correctly

Keep on Keepin ON!!!!
Lightnin Mike

Posted on Dec 8, 2009, 8:35 AM
from IP address 71.57.189.120


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What he said.....................+

by (Login LARGEJAMES)
Horsemen

Go here for some great info.
http://chopperhandbook.com/

DO YOU LISTEN TO BIKER RADIO MAGAZINE?[linked image]
http://www.bikerradiomagazine.com

Posted on Dec 9, 2009, 12:24 AM
from IP address 69.209.53.17


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Does anyone know if I can use a Brake Proportioning Valve on my Bike

by (Login hunter27362)
Horsemen

I've had a stroke and lost partial use of my right leg, I want to run both my brakes off of the front master Cyl. Can this be done. Hunter

Posted on Dec 6, 2009, 1:35 PM
from IP address 208.96.116.183


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Ya

by (Select Login DustyShovel)
Horsemen

yes you can. Ive done it. be carefull until you get it were you want it. I got mine at summit racing equipment.

Posted on Dec 6, 2009, 1:43 PM
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Thanks

by (Login hunter27362)
Horsemen

I really appreciate it

Posted on Dec 6, 2009, 4:56 PM
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Was it adustable , like Wilwoods

by (Login hunter27362)
Horsemen



Posted on Dec 6, 2009, 5:21 PM
from IP address 208.96.116.183


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Wilwood makes em too***

by (Login woodhawg)
Horsemen



Posted on Dec 6, 2009, 1:53 PM
from IP address 65.6.150.237


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Not a problem

by (Premier Login MilkmanDan)
Horsemen

Moto Guzzi runs linked brakes on their bikes right from the factory, So has Yamaha, Honda, BMW, and pretty much everyone else in the last few years. Are you running a single disc front end right now? When you set upt teh valve, be sure to run a lot more brake to the front than the back, and be SURE to remember that they are linked when riding on gravel.

" "

Posted on Dec 6, 2009, 2:18 PM
from IP address 24.220.248.59


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Thank you very much

by (Login hunter27362)
Horsemen



Posted on Dec 6, 2009, 4:58 PM
from IP address 208.96.116.183


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I might have a new one

by (Login velvets)
Horsemen

that I bought from speedway for a project that I didn't use. if you are interested email me and I'll dig it up. Probably $25 shipped or so.

Scott McKelvey smckelvey@velvetcustoms.com
www.velvetcustoms.com
http://community.webshots.com/user/shovel084

Posted on Dec 7, 2009, 2:18 PM
from IP address 67.129.115.13


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ironhead porting

by (Login kellyk724)
Horsemen

is there a good tech in southwestern PA. for porting 1976 ironhead? please email me back thanks.

Posted on Dec 6, 2009, 12:44 PM
from IP address 72.95.249.145


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Yes there is.....

by Trevor (Login Ironheadtrev)
Horsemen

YOU!!! It's not that hard or expensive to do. You can go to Harbor Freight or Big Lots and get a drum sander assortment and a cheapo drill. The thing with Ironheads is that the ports are already big. You really just want to clean them up and take out the flashing from the casting process and smooth out the rough spots. Don't concentrate too much on on area or you'll wind up with port irregularities. These heads aren't perfect. Cast iron is softer than you might think and works out fast. Assuming the valves are out, you can put a set of junk valves in to protect the seat. Start with a 150 or so grit and smooth out the rough spots. Save the used sanding drums. Smooth out the areas under the valve seat radius and as much as you can reach with the dremel and sanding drums. Hand sand what you couldn't reach and smooth out the surface. Put a 180 grit clean up on the intake ports and stop. Now with the used sand paper and sanding drums , soak them in chrome polish and start lightly sanding again. You'll want a chrome like finish in the combustion chambers and exhaust ports. You can trade up with 300-800 grit, but keep wet sanding it with metal polish. Clean the heads thoruoghly and reinspect. Re-install if satisfied and enjoy. I've done three sets this way and had positive results.

Happy Holidays,

Trevor

Posted on Dec 6, 2009, 1:44 PM
from IP address 217.163.18.2


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ok

by (Login kellyk724)
Horsemen

Thanks i'll give it a try and see what happens! Kelly

Posted on Dec 6, 2009, 2:32 PM
from IP address 72.95.249.145


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Careful,

by (Login TaylorMadeVtwins)
Horsemen

Although it sounds good and easy. BE CAREFUL !!!! Many of heads have been ruined by amateur porters. My advice is if you are going to do it yourself, be conservative. Do NOT remove any excess material. The closer you work towards the valve/seat, the bigger the payoff. In other words, GOOD HIGH FLOW valves, with a multi-angle seat yields the biggest payoff. I always cut a five angle seat and relieve the surrounding area in the chamber, Only lap if you have to, . You'll love it. Oh, I read a long time ago,,,, "Don't play Jerry Branch unless you ARE Jerry Branch".

Posted on Dec 6, 2009, 2:43 PM
from IP address 70.217.154.13


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Check this out

by Mike (Login Mike_1969_cb450)
Horsemen

I have seen this shop, but never stopped in to chat. It looks like a gem. Located near Butler PA. Little shop next door to house, loaded with good technology and machine tools.

http://www.mega-flo.com/

Let us know how it goes. Mike






Posted on Dec 6, 2009, 2:46 PM
from IP address 174.130.195.196


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Anyone work on sleds? Need Wiring diagram...

by (Login Cybersurfingalien)
Horsemen

for an '88 Yamaha SRV 540.

Thanks

Sportsters- RSD before RSD was cool

Posted on Dec 5, 2009, 9:02 PM
from IP address 68.115.111.145


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Try asking here...

by (Premier Login ripperproductions)
Horsemen

http://www.network54.com/Forum/152868/

A few guys over there work on other stuff.....

Or, you can try Terry's. Same group, usually, but you need a login other than N54

http://www.terry-zone.com/forum

 




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Posted on Dec 6, 2009, 11:20 AM

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Done, Thanks.***

by Cybersurfingalien (Login Cybersurfingalien)
Horsemen



Posted on Dec 6, 2009, 8:08 PM
from IP address 68.115.111.145


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May I use any 3 ohm dual fire coil for a Dyna S ignition?

by (Login SoCalRedNeck)
Horsemen

Electronic type on an Evo.

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You don't like my bike? YOU aren't supposed to like my bike!

Posted on Dec 5, 2009, 7:53 PM
from IP address 207.200.116.130


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for race only...

by dan r (Login danr)
Horsemen

for street use, a normal 4-5 ohm points type coil is best.

the 3 ohm coil will throw hot sparks for a short while but overheats pretty quick with street use.

'stupid signature words go here'

Posted on Dec 5, 2009, 8:13 PM
from IP address 75.219.1.95


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true, true...

by (Login FrozenBiker)
Horsemen

I burned up a 3 ohm in 15 minutes, would not start after, stick w/ the 3 ohm.

Posted on Dec 5, 2009, 8:22 PM
from IP address 166.203.234.246


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So, I don't need to use a Dyna coil? (I'm stupid on electronics)

by (Login SoCalRedNeck)
Horsemen

Thought there might be some compatability issue.

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You don't like my bike? YOU aren't supposed to like my bike!

Posted on Dec 5, 2009, 8:44 PM
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nope...

by dan r (Login danr)
Horsemen

any brand of 4-5 ohm dual tower coil will work fine with a Dyna S ignition.
use any replacement coil made for a points type ignition.

'stupid signature words go here'

Posted on Dec 5, 2009, 8:50 PM
from IP address 75.219.1.95


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That...

by (Login SoCalRedNeck)
Horsemen

makes me happy--and will save money--thanks!

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You don't like my bike? YOU aren't supposed to like my bike!

Posted on Dec 5, 2009, 9:04 PM
from IP address 207.200.116.130


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link...

by stick93 (Login stick93)
Horsemen

to Dyna FAQs http://www.dynaonline.com/skins/support/dynatek_faq.aspx stick

Posted on Dec 6, 2009, 7:56 AM
from IP address 98.70.51.68


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Well.....

by (Login BlacksmithCycles)
Horsemen

It's not recommended but...

The Dyna-S is just like points. It replaces the points and condensor with a solid state switch(no moving parts). The reason why you are not supposed to use a 3 Ohm coil is because the Dyna-S is not a true electronic ignition with "Dwell control" or a processor that controls how long the coil is hot or powered up before it fires. The idea is that the coil can be powered up too long between firings and overheat. Similar to leaving the key switch on and melting the coil. The 5 Ohm coil, having a higher internal resistance, limits the amount of current the coil sees and keeps it from overheating. Being able to electronically limit the amount of current flowing to the coil, after it is saturated or "fully charged", is the reason why some higher end electronic ignitions can get away with a coil rated as low as .5 Ohms


Now...to contradict my self I have converted a bunch of bikes from stock electronic ignition to points. Mostly for me or cash poor friends. LOL A points conversion is just cheaper than repacing the electronic ignition module.


I myself ran my 88 Sporty years ago when I was in school with points and the stock 3 Ohm electronic ignition coil. I was flat broke and figured I would change out the coil when it went bad. It never did. I went about 30K miles with that coil and one of my friends is still using it now.

Now....as a side note..don't try to use one of the "mini" coils. They have very fine windings to fit in a small package. They are more sensitive to overheating and will cook in short order.

To sum it up..if you have a coil already I would run it. It is up to you though. Don't forget that technically you are doing something you are not supposed to. If you need to buy a coil then get the right one.



Nick Pastore
Blacksmith Cycles
973-702-8900
www.BlacksmithCycles.com
[IMG][linked image][/IMG]
[IMG][linked image][/IMG]

Posted on Dec 7, 2009, 8:40 AM
from IP address 65.40.120.6


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Hydraulic Clutch on a Shovel (stock frame)

by pappyvanwinkle (Login pappyvanwinkle)
Horsemen

The bike is a hand shifted 83 FXWG. I am thinking about going with a hydraulic clutch. I looked at the JayBrake site but it looks like the only options for mounting are Evos. I'm sure there are other options out there and I know that anything can be modified, but I am wondering what other people have done?

Buy the ticket-take the ride!

pappyvanwinkle

Posted on Dec 5, 2009, 7:06 PM
from IP address 71.211.139.46


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Here's what Fab Kevin rigged for me...

by (Login Englishman)
Terminator

Used the basic parts of the stock brake. He put the reservoir on top like that, but you can use a short hose or anything. I think he still has some of those master cylinders, give him a call.
586-291-4798


[linked image]

[linked image]

Posted on Dec 7, 2009, 7:11 PM
from IP address 68.62.96.247


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Thanks Englishman*

by pappyvanwinkle (Login pappyvanwinkle)
Horsemen



Buy the ticket-take the ride!

pappyvanwinkle

Posted on Dec 7, 2009, 8:03 PM
from IP address 71.211.139.46


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On my Pan for about 5 years now...

by (Login Lojack72)
Horsemen

and outside of changing the fluid once haven't really touched it.

Accutronix foot clutch, old ART hydraulic kicker cover. You likely won't find the Accutronic on their website, just give them a call. Pricey, but they use Wilwood master cylinders which are as reliable as I've found. ART is no more, but the Baker kicker cover looks to be as good if not better. Don't try to save a few bucks with Custom Chrome or another foreign POS, it'll fail or leak.

Make sure to route the hydraulic line to minimize heat, I initially ran it too close to my exhaust and the "sweet spot" of engagement would move as the motor heated up. Braided line is a good idea, no need to worry about adjustment or breakage but I do carry a small bottle (travel shampoo size) of DOT5 in my saddlebag should I ever need to do a side of the road repair to brakes or clutch.

Posted on Dec 8, 2009, 11:19 AM
from IP address 65.13.76.24


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Looking for tires

by pan-shovel (Login pan-shovel)
Horsemen

I was going to buy some Avon gangster wide white walls but heard that they have a tendency to wander in cracks and grooves. Can anyone suggest another wheel that has 2 3/4" white walls that are safer?

Posted on Dec 5, 2009, 5:16 PM
from IP address 24.21.208.224


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Every tire ..

by (Login FrozenBiker)
Horsemen

I have ever riden wanders in cracks an grooves, except knobbies.

Posted on Dec 5, 2009, 8:24 PM
from IP address 166.203.234.246


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which tire?

by Randy (Login knucklepanshovel)
Horsemen

My experience are same, all tires will follow groves, however some seem to be worse than others. rib treads have been worst for me. a tire without straight lines but has a ziggy pattern has always performed best for grooved roads. but usually handles worse in snow & ice. lol

I have run the Avons Gangsters & black wall version of same maybe the road runner? & I didnt have any real problems. a wide tire has been better for me than the skinny tires. dual 16's seem better than a 16 rear & a 19 or 21 front, for being jerked by road groves. no matter what tread design. but skinner tires give bike a quicker handling usually.


my problems usually come from wet riding & cold weather, I have more trouble finding tires that like snow, that dont mind below freezing temps, nothing more fun than start sliding on cold dry pavement at low speeds! 1 tire I had broke loose at 30 to 35 MPH & I messed with pressure to no avail, & just had to throw on another set of cheap tires on some spare wheels until warm weather came.

Later,
Randy

Posted on Dec 7, 2009, 5:35 PM
from IP address 4.248.252.33


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brad

by (Login smfree)
Horsemen

have you figured out what is wrong with you trans yet?

Ahh Fuck-it I won't feel it till tomarrow


Posted on Dec 5, 2009, 1:08 PM
from IP address 24.119.187.109


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Re: brad

by Brad (Login 2slowjo)
Horsemen

I haven't dug into yet. Not to sound dumb, but when I do how will I know if my shift fork is bent? Thanks!

Posted on Dec 5, 2009, 5:34 PM
from IP address 174.59.105.30


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you can tell

by (Login smfree)
Horsemen

you may just be out of adjustment. I really havn't been in a sportster trans. If you have a manual look in the trans section and it can give you some hints. I don't think its your clutch because it would have the symtoms in all gears not just 2nd. I know with my 4 speed it would only jump under a hard throttle at first. This all happend because I had some back problems and could't feel my left leg worth a shit. I couldn't tell how hard I was shifting, and nocked it out of adjustment.

Ahh Fuck-it I won't feel it till tomarrow


Posted on Dec 6, 2009, 1:21 AM
from IP address 24.119.187.109


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take a look at

by (Login smfree)
Horsemen

Quad cam bastards web site. They are dedicated to sporties and will be able to help you out more than I can.

Ahh Fuck-it I won't feel it till tomarrow


Posted on Dec 6, 2009, 1:25 AM
from IP address 24.119.187.109


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ironhead rebuild

by (Login ty2kleiner)
Horsemen

I am attempting to rebuild my engine from a 1980 sportster. I live in S.W. Wisconsin and I am looking for recommendation for a quality shop that is within a few hours drive of my house that is expierenced in building a hotrod ironhead. Any replies are greatly appreciated.

Posted on Dec 5, 2009, 11:29 AM
from IP address 75.100.218.106


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I'll do it,

by (Login TaylorMadeVtwins)
Horsemen

Plenty of references. www.taylormadevtwins.net

Posted on Dec 6, 2009, 4:27 PM
from IP address 70.217.154.13


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Re: I'll do it,

by ty kleiner (Login ty2kleiner)
Horsemen

I sent you a e-mail to the adress on your website. Thanks for the reply!

Posted on Dec 6, 2009, 5:47 PM
from IP address 75.100.218.106


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hello,

by (Select Login tizard)
Horsemen

where at in sw wisconsin? i still have disfunctional family in s.w. wisconsin. e me if you want to chat and do your homework afore you hire anybody; references etc. but even then they could be made up. yeah i know from

Posted on Dec 7, 2009, 12:45 PM
from IP address 198.215.16.154


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oops

by tizard (Select Login tizard)
Horsemen

tricksarfur@yahoo.com

Posted on Dec 7, 2009, 2:06 PM
from IP address 198.215.16.154


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Re: hello,

by ty kleiner (Login ty2kleiner)
Horsemen

I am in the dickeyville area.Are you close by?

Posted on Dec 7, 2009, 7:36 PM
from IP address 75.100.218.106


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man

by (Select Login tizard)
Horsemen

i'm in ft.worth texas right now. trick ass parole. i grew up in benton. why not use wilwerts. at least it'll be guaranteed, sorry but i had a very expensive bad experience useing somebody who used to be here. the boy from hartsville tennesee, when i went there after he didn't show what he said he could do, he claim to be mafia. they finally run him off here, but still i lost 2 grand plus whatever else i woulde of came up with on the ghost

Posted on Dec 11, 2009, 3:14 PM
from IP address 198.215.16.154


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Need a flat fender looks right on a 16" wheel

by (Login Lastrideleather)
Horsemen

I want a flat fender that sets like this old spare tire cover does, anyone know where I can get one?

[linked image]

Thanks for the help!
Adam

Posted on Dec 5, 2009, 9:59 AM
from IP address 67.173.34.55


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Try pulling the wheel and tire off.....

by (Login wilbertsmith)
Horsemen

and taking it to a trailer supply place. They usually have flat fenders in a variety of diameters and widths. You might have to modify it to your tastes, but you should most likely be able to find one that sits the way you want it to without a lot of work to it.

"There are three -and only three- kinds of people in this world: those who don't know they're damaged and blame others; those who realize they're damaged and blame others; and then people like you and me, who wear damage like comfortable pajamas."

Posted on Dec 5, 2009, 2:10 PM
from IP address 174.144.207.74


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Fender

by (Login Lastrideleather)
Horsemen

Thanks man, I will check the yellow pages, never thought of that.

Posted on Dec 5, 2009, 4:12 PM
from IP address 67.173.34.55


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got one

by (Login rocknturtle)

hey got a fender with a small flip up tail. flat 6 inches wide. I'll take 25 plus shipping if you want drop me an email fawrick@yahoo.com

Posted on Dec 6, 2009, 7:55 AM
from IP address 184.0.11.192


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Right on

by (Login Lastrideleather)
Horsemen

Do you have a paypal link?

Posted on Dec 6, 2009, 2:24 PM
from IP address 67.173.34.55


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yes send it to

by (Login rocknturtle)

fawrick@yahoo.com make sure and give me your shipping info so I can get it to you.

Posted on Dec 6, 2009, 5:30 PM
from IP address 184.0.11.192


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Fender

by Dave B (Login Dave_o93710)
Horsemen

Try Northern tool and equipment if there's one in your area. I bought a 7" wide trailer fender there last week for my bike for $15.

Dave B

Posted on Dec 5, 2009, 3:09 PM
from IP address 69.59.6.73


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fender

by (Login Lastrideleather)
Horsemen

Did the one from Northern tool fits perfect? I dont have a metal shrinker and would have no way of modifying it. Unless there are other ways I dont know about.

Thanks for the response
Adam

Posted on Dec 5, 2009, 4:11 PM
from IP address 67.173.34.55


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final belt drive-info 4 jw

by 8bawl (Login fxrchop)

ok here we have it-front sprocket 32t, rear 70t, distance from trans output shaft to axle is 20". hope this helps.....thanks in advance!

Posted on Dec 5, 2009, 6:17 AM
from IP address 68.239.255.231


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not jw, but here's some info...

by 85fxruppr (Login 85fxruppr)
Horsemen

this is what i used when i ran into the same problem with belt length. hope it helps

http://beltdrives.com/guides-rt.htm

"Cause there's a big difference between RUBbish and white trash"

Posted on Dec 5, 2009, 10:06 AM
from IP address 65.87.53.144


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final belt drive

by Bob8bawl (Login fxrchop)

did it evenyualy work or did you end up with a chain?.....thanks.

Posted on Dec 6, 2009, 3:56 PM
from IP address 68.239.255.231


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yep...

by (Login 85fxruppr)
Horsemen

My 85 came with 32/70 pullys, just wanted to re-use everything I could. Rear section got shortened up a bit, my center to center was about 22 1/4" (if I remember right.) Local shop loaned me a 132t, but my luck, it was just a bit too short. I ended up getting a 133t, and that one was still a pretty tight fit. If and when I have to replace it I'll probably use a 135t to make it easier to get on. Hope it works out for ya.

"Cause there's a big difference between RUBbish and white trash"

Posted on Dec 6, 2009, 10:23 PM
from IP address 65.87.53.144


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just saw your post

by jw (Premier Login jmwlr)
Horsemen

i still need the pitch



Posted on Dec 11, 2009, 4:30 PM
from IP address 205.246.179.35


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Gas Welding Question

by Mike (Login Mike_1969_cb450)
Horsemen

I have a general question for you metal heads out there. Lets say I trying to weld two rods together. I heat up the rod and a small puddle forms, I start to lay some filler material into the puddle. If the piece gets too hot, I have been pulling my torch away from the piece, moving the flame a few inches further from the puddle. Sometimes the steel will appear to boil, although from what I have read, steel should not boil.

Can you tell me what this is? Is this slag generation? Or even the alteration of metal?

Thanks, Mike

Posted on Dec 5, 2009, 1:16 AM
from IP address 174.130.195.196


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It's porosity

by ed (Login small_e_900)
Horsemen

Impuritues in the weld puddle bubbling to the surface. Grind the mill scale form the weld area and remove oils/grease before welding.

Posted on Dec 5, 2009, 4:37 AM
from IP address 24.93.136.165


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One more question

by DUDE! I totally forgot my name (Login Mike_1969_cb450)
Horsemen



With your keyword porosity I looked into one of my welding references

http://www.metalwebnews.org/ftp/welding-theory.pdf


and found this:

g. Functions of Shielded Arc or Heavy Coated Electrodes.
(1) These electrodes produce a reducing gas shield around the arc which prevents atmospheric oxygen or nitrogen from contaminating the weld metal. The oxygen would readily combine with the molten metal, removing alloying elements and causing porosity. The nitrogen would cause brittleness, low ductility, and in some cases, low strength and poor resistance to corrosion.



So, after reading about porosity, I think I have a few factors, to large of a puddle (to much heat), did not remove paint from surounding area (oils), and ...
per the above, possibly holding torch too far away from puddle losing shilding properties and flooding atmospheric Oxygen and nitrogen into the weld? I would not mind your comments on this one.

I'm still trying to dial in the proper heat level and need to know if this can be adjusted with distance between the torch and the puddle (within reason), or must the flame cone be held close to the puddle to maintain shilding. I usually start the puddle with the cone in close proximity, then back it off as required (1.5 inch max). Is this too far, or should I be adjusting my flame.


Thanks for your help.

Mike



Posted on Dec 5, 2009, 9:14 AM
from IP address 174.130.195.196


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tip size

by (Login Scot229)
Horsemen

if you have to hold the flame that far away i'd try a smaller tip size on the torch to see if you can keep it closer

Posted on Dec 5, 2009, 10:04 AM
from IP address 96.24.85.99


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settings

by james (Login free59mod)
Horsemen

actylene 7#/oxygen 10# and rest of what was said,light the torch with actylene 1/4 turn open oxygen 1/8 turn open , adjust flame from there

Posted on Dec 6, 2009, 12:49 PM
from IP address 206.174.60.9


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Re: Gas Welding Question

by Dennis..73sho (Login ..73sho)
Horsemen

If you're trying to weld rebar forget about it. The metal is full of crap.

Posted on Dec 9, 2009, 12:35 PM
from IP address 70.245.178.119


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Grip glue?

by (Login Jinxie29)
Horsemen

I am running a softail with no handle bar contols and cant keep my left grip on the bar. I tried 1 or 2 differnt glues. Is there something that works? Will glue stick to chrome handle bars? Is there a small clamp that would take the place of the controls and help keep it secure?

Thanks

Posted on Dec 4, 2009, 10:37 PM
from IP address 142.161.169.103


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Try

by (Login LARGEJAMES)
Horsemen

3M weather strip cement.

DO YOU LISTEN TO BIKER RADIO MAGAZINE?[linked image]
http://www.bikerradiomagazine.com

Posted on Dec 4, 2009, 10:52 PM
from IP address 69.209.52.74


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There's also

by (Premier Login ripperproductions)
Horsemen

a glue called (not kidding) Gorilla Snot. It looks exactly like it sounds, but it works.


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Posted on Dec 4, 2009, 11:10 PM

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That's what I always use too **

by (Login jmcelroy)
Horsemen

*

Posted on Dec 5, 2009, 5:47 PM
from IP address 72.94.79.181


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I've always used soap

by (Login cautioninc)
Horsemen

dishwashing soap. A thin coat helps slide the grip on, then dries to glue it on. When the time comes to take it off, use a thin wooden rod to slide underneath and spray water in it. Turns it back to soap & slides off.



jred
caution, inc.
I'm not a real mechanic but I play one in my garage.
th_pic120706_8.jpg

Posted on Dec 5, 2009, 2:14 AM
from IP address 75.66.248.20


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Thats the ticket

by GREENE (Login Slow2u)
Horsemen

and cheap and available

Posted on Dec 6, 2009, 3:47 PM
from IP address 130.219.8.252


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Hair spray...*

by (Login small_e_900)
Horsemen

*

Posted on Dec 5, 2009, 4:38 AM
from IP address 24.93.136.165


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I have good luck with it also*

by ratbastard_us (Login ratbastard_us)
Horsemen



Posted on Dec 6, 2009, 12:24 PM
from IP address 209.30.181.65


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I've used good old Superglue many times......

by BadMonkeyMW (Login BadMonkeyMW)
Horsemen

and had good results.

Baggers: Choppers for Pussies

Posted on Dec 5, 2009, 9:45 AM
from IP address 68.154.144.36


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same here

by (Login Scot229)
Horsemen

emery cloth the chrome where the glue goes on and be quick when you slide the grip on

Posted on Dec 5, 2009, 10:05 AM
from IP address 96.24.85.99


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$1 enamel paint, a little shot will do it

by (Login pissedoffrider)
Horsemen

has worked for me for many years.

Posted on Dec 6, 2009, 3:11 PM
from IP address 72.90.41.124


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Golf club grips ...

by Dennis..73sho (Login ..73sho)
Horsemen

are put on with double sided tape. Put down a couple of lengths of double sided tape, pour a little thinner or lighter fluid in your grip, slosch it around, pour it out over the tape, it will make the tape real slick. Slide your grip on. If you have to take your grip off, Get a syringe, fill it with thinner, squirt it under the grip and it will loosen the glue, twist it off.

Posted on Dec 9, 2009, 12:45 PM
from IP address 70.245.178.119


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Mag and timing question

by John (Login tagglewing)
Horsemen

I have a 62 sporty, I have followed the manual to set the timing. however it says that when the line is lined up in the viewing hole the small lobe on the magnito should be counter clockwise from the follower on the points. it appears to me that the mag is set 180 degrees out because the large lobe is in this position. Here are my questions.

1. should the cam lobe be just touching the follower (this is what the manual shows)

2. if in fact the mag is this far off would it still run? if so would it pop and spit through the carb?

I am hesetant to pull the mag. I have not had much experience and am trying to teach myself to work on this with the help of you all.

the bike does start up pretty easily now I have put a CV carb on it. When I bought the bike it had a different carb and would pop and spit out the carb like it does now. I assumed it was the carb but now I am not so sure.



Posted on Dec 4, 2009, 8:28 PM
from IP address 98.203.204.16


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You sure you're

by (Login small_e_900)
Horsemen

coming up on the compression stroke on the FRONT cylinder?

Posted on Dec 5, 2009, 4:40 AM
from IP address 24.93.136.165


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method used

by John (Login tagglewing)
Horsemen

the manual says to rotate motor till front intake valve closes and the piston is coming up on the compression stroke. so what I did is watch the tappet as I was rotating the motor until it was up then I continued to rotate the motor till the tappet was all the way down. at that point I continued to rotate the motor till the timing line was alligned in the viewing hole as described by the manual. am I missing something in determining when the motor is on the compression stroke?

Posted on Dec 5, 2009, 8:14 AM
from IP address 98.203.204.16


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john

by (Login jbfrmca)
Horsemen

as far as the compression stroke your doing it right. now if the small lobe is not where it's supposed to be don't be scared and pull the mag out and put it where it should be. you might have to stab it a few times and rotate the mag to get it right but it's not that hard. and as far as the carb is concerned it sounds like it might be running lean.coud be a intake leak or a jetting problem. judging by the popping out of the carb. hope this helps.

a biker rides anything because life is simply unaccepatable otherwhise

Posted on Dec 5, 2009, 12:11 PM
from IP address 69.62.133.203


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I bet,,,

by (Login TaylorMadeVtwins)
Horsemen

If he times it correctly, it will not spit/backfire out carb anymore.

Posted on Dec 6, 2009, 3:01 PM
from IP address 70.217.154.13


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if timed correctly it might not hit you in the face with your foot

by (Login pissedoffrider)
Horsemen

when it coughs back when kickin and snappin your ankle. Or trashin your electric start parts.

Posted on Dec 6, 2009, 3:15 PM
from IP address 72.90.41.124


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Need advise on de-carboning an engine...if that is a word....

by (Login Nick-O)
Horsemen

working on a TC HD that has been running SUPER rich for about 1000 miles, has some serious carbon in the chambers. Can't get authorization to tear it down, recommendations? Anyone ever use ZMax on a HD? What is out there to clean valves and chambers...? This is too nice a mill to be covered in soot. Appreciate some other opinions........

Thanks Nicko

Posted on Dec 4, 2009, 3:05 PM
from IP address 71.54.147.64


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If no one else chimes in...

by Jessechop (Login crazypan)
Horsemen

I will go out to the shop in a bit and grab the can of stuff I have and tell you the name. It works pretty good.

Posted on Dec 4, 2009, 5:08 PM
from IP address 74.75.206.233


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I'd appreciate it...

by (Login Nick-O)
Horsemen

thanks

Posted on Dec 4, 2009, 5:12 PM
from IP address 71.54.147.64


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Sea foam

by (Login crazypan)
Horsemen

Sea Foam is what I have used. It makes it smoke pretty damm good for a while but it cleans it out pretty well

Posted on Dec 4, 2009, 5:36 PM
from IP address 74.75.206.233


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I'll be dipped...

by (Login Nick-O)
Horsemen

that was what my boss suggested...but wasn't sure. That is cool. I thought maybe there was a next best thing, but whatever works. Thanks for taking the time to look that up for me.

Regards,
Nicko

Posted on Dec 4, 2009, 5:39 PM
from IP address 71.54.147.64


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stupid newbie question

by (Login ziggycash)
Horsemen

I see people making engraved points covers. i would like to change the one on my sporty. however it looks like there are rivets holding it in. what do i need to do to properly take it off and mount an engraved one on there?

it's a 2001 1200xls

Posted on Dec 4, 2009, 2:15 PM
from IP address 72.207.22.89


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get a small drill bit, just bigger than the center hole on the

by (Login LightninMike)
Horsemen

rivet..... drill the rivet out.... you can now disassemble it all and install a new cover...... yes it is as simple as it sounds

Keep on Keepin ON!!!!
Lightnin Mike

Posted on Dec 4, 2009, 4:12 PM
from IP address 71.57.189.120


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cool

by (Login ziggycash)
Horsemen

thanks. now the next question is do i have to tap the holes where the rivets were? or are they all ready threaded.

Posted on Dec 4, 2009, 4:19 PM
from IP address 72.207.22.89


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they are riveted to the inner palte which covers the pickup..

by (Login LightninMike)
Horsemen

this should be attatched to the nosecone by screws which go into standoffs that keep the timing plate (or whatever it's called) in adjustment

Keep on Keepin ON!!!!
Lightnin Mike

Posted on Dec 6, 2009, 12:38 PM
from IP address 71.57.189.120


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making mid mount controls

by (Login FX84)
Horsemen

i'm in the process of fabbing mid mount controls for my 65 pan,it has kick only belt drive,wondering if i should use 3/16 or 1/4" steel for brackets?anyone out there have any templates for mids,sure would help,thanks.

Posted on Dec 4, 2009, 7:19 AM
from IP address 64.143.220.132


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mid controls

by SA (Login harderfasterchoppers)
Horsemen

depends on your shape and size 5/16 would be even better. after you put a foot peg on and stand on it 1/4 you wound get a lot of flex most stock harley controls are big and ugly but they do have a lot of gussets and are most 5/16 thats just my opinion hope it help SA

Posted on Dec 4, 2009, 8:34 AM
from IP address 24.208.160.247


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mids

by (Login FX84)
Horsemen

i plan on using the brake side from my old shovel and modifying it,shift side bracket will mount to original pan inner primary bolt holes.appreciate any ideas.

Posted on Dec 4, 2009, 8:47 AM
from IP address 64.143.220.132


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clear over spray bomb

by (Login Edlyn73)
Horsemen

Ok, so I've done a halfway decent (IMHO) spray can paint job. What's the best clear that I can spray over it to protect it from the inevitable gas that will drip on it someday? It's gloss paint, by the way, Krylon and Testors (yeah, the ones who made those models you put together in 7th grade.)

Thanks in advance,
Ed

"Righteousness guards the man of Integrity."
(didn't say it, but I buy it.)

-Ed


Posted on Dec 3, 2009, 8:28 PM
from IP address 76.111.68.95


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Best clear

by John Mc (Login ruger45)
Horsemen

I've been painting my bike with Rustoleum for years and it holds up to almost anything.If ya buy the quart cans and cut it with acetone,it's almost bulletproof.

Posted on Dec 3, 2009, 10:38 PM
from IP address 99.154.121.166


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rustoleum rocks!

by (Login ajvague)
Horsemen

I used automotive rustoleum rattle can just to get up and when I went down for repair I took the tank and fender to the painter and he asked me later what the hell that stuff was! He had to sand it all off cause paint stripper wouldn't touch it

Posted on Dec 4, 2009, 12:52 AM
from IP address 69.12.183.149


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Spraymaxx

by (Login sixball)
Horsemen

Spraymax 2 part clear is the best. It's about 24 bucks a can, but it is a 2 part clear in a can. It will hold up to gas with no problems. Eastwood, or any major autobody shop should have it. Google it and read up on it.

Sixball

Posted on Dec 4, 2009, 3:30 AM
from IP address 98.213.13.213


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Second that...

by (Login Lojack72)
Horsemen

This is Spraymax over Duplicolor & Seymour rattle can, been on for about 2 years now and I dump gas on it every time I fill up.
[linked image]

Posted on Dec 4, 2009, 8:24 AM
from IP address 65.13.76.24


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Just remember To

by Jimbo73 (Login Jimbo73)
Horsemen

wear the proper mask when spraying that stuff (not a dust mask)!!

Posted on Dec 4, 2009, 5:44 PM
from IP address 64.222.85.242


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xs650 low compression

by thayer (Login smarge420)
Horsemen

i have a pretty much stock 75 xs 650 that seems to have lost compression tests out at about 80psi per cyl. only things done to it are elec. ignition, and 36mm mikuni carbs. what could be my prob or what should i check. i am not to familuar with working on these engins. thanks for any help.

FTF!!!

Posted on Dec 3, 2009, 1:59 PM
from IP address 67.249.197.224


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Did you check

by (Login cautioninc)
Horsemen

Over at the XS650 Garage?http://xs650temp.proboards.com/index.cgi?

No offense to the guys here, but those guys live & breathe the XSs.



jred
caution, inc.
I'm not a real mechanic but I play one in my garage.
th_pic120706_8.jpg

Posted on Dec 3, 2009, 2:12 PM
from IP address 75.66.248.20


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just tryed and.....

by thayer (Login smarge420)
Horsemen

for some reason i cant log in there. so any help i can get here would be great. thanks

FTF!!!

Posted on Dec 3, 2009, 5:08 PM
from IP address 67.249.197.224


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Set your valves

by (Premier Login MilkmanDan)
Horsemen

FIRST set your valve lash before checking your compression.
Then report back what your find. AND, be sure to hold your carb WIDE open when checkng compression. Better yet to take the carbs off.

" "

Posted on Dec 3, 2009, 6:24 PM
from IP address 24.220.248.59


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Do this...

by hugh (Login Punkskalar)
Horsemen

Adjust valves first. Makes all the difference, and hold the throttle open while checking it. I don't know what stock is supposed to be, but mine is right at 185 on both cylinders... 80 seems super weak? But then again, I see guys kicking these things while sitting on the bike, I get tossed off of mine... Good luck...

Posted on Dec 4, 2009, 8:54 PM
from IP address 97.82.203.97


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wireing up switch

by (Login rocknturtle)

well got the oil tank straigtened out. now I am using the old wireing harness. and everything is marked pretty straight forward. but it has a 3 pole ignition switch. I want to use the 6 pole in the fatbob tank dash. can anyone tell me how to wire it up? I am going to make sure it runs before I attempt to change the switches. Looks like I could just use 3 of the six...but which 3? thanks guys

Posted on Dec 3, 2009, 2:17 AM
from IP address 184.0.11.192


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Several options open to you. Check Ripper's site for wiring diagrams that

by C.W. (Login C-UU)
Horsemen

he has posted and which could offer you a what goes where for your switch. Check a manual for a ride which uses the centre mount 6 term switch.
Or try this.
Using a multimeter set to ohms, first orient the key so the tumblers are in the "lock' position and the key can come out. Flip the switch over so you can see the terminals and the plate(s) to which they are attached. Then using the leads, check for resistance- you should have "0" between any of the joined terminals but infinity between the two unconnected sets as a whole. Okay, here you get to choose, which of the sets of three you wish to use as "in"--that is power coming into the switch and which will be "out"--that is power going out to the various circuits you will be using. Typically, the terminal which appears at about the 4 o'clock position with the switch right side up and installed usually becomes the power in from the battery/breaker. Attach a wire from the ohm-meter to that, turn the switch to the first position "on" and check to see which terminal of the opposing set now has zero resistance- you may be able to see it visually when you flip the switch upside down again but check it anyway. That is your power to the starter button-running circuits such as horn and signals. One more click will bring you to the circuit for your lights if you plan to run them separately. Again test for resistance. With the 6 pole you may find you will have to install a jumper between the 4 o'clock power in terminal and the next terminal over-about 5 o'clock, as they are not attached and you need power into that terminal in order to get lights on the other side--the older 5 terminal switches did not have that to contend with. You may also have to do the same for your power out terminals at 12 o'clock and 1 o'clock as they may be divorced as well. From there run your wires according to where/what they are supposed to work, bundle them in heat shrink if you dig pretty, and attach your wire ends using the method of your choice, crimp or solder both work well if done right. For the sake of checking and possible issues in the future, using different colors for the various circuits is useful. Show bikes often use a single color to match the paint and can be a stone bitch to trace if a short occurs. Breakers as opposed to fuses is also a personal choice. Hope this helps. JUst me

Posted on Dec 3, 2009, 2:55 PM
from IP address 216.211.15.17


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I should draw up a diagram

by (Premier Login ripperproductions)
Horsemen

for that 6 pole switch. I've wired up several and I ALWAYS have to look at the last one I wired to wire the next one.... I'm losing the little I have left in there....


spinbrush.gif
Ripper®


sticky.gifNetwork54 Forum Tech Tips
sticky.gifSwap and Tech Forums


Posted on Dec 4, 2009, 11:11 PM

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Link here...

by (Premier Login ripperproductions)
Horsemen

http://www.ripper1.com/tech/wiring.php

 




spinbrush.gif
Ripper®


sticky.gifNetwork54 Forum Tech Tips
sticky.gifSwap and Tech Forums


Posted on Dec 4, 2009, 11:12 PM

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wow thanks

by (Login smfree)
Horsemen

you have a ton of good info on your site

Ahh Fuck-it I won't feel it till tomarrow


Posted on Dec 5, 2009, 1:28 PM
from IP address 24.119.187.109


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thanks

by (Login rocknturtle)

thanks sometimes wiring gives my mind an overload.

Posted on Dec 6, 2009, 8:09 AM
from IP address 184.0.11.192


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changing F.I. to carb on Buell engine

by tom whitfield (Login h.tom)
Horsemen

Whats invovled to replace fuel injection with a carb on a '04 Buell engine?
Found a deal on an engine,but don't know anything about something that new.

Posted on Dec 2, 2009, 7:22 PM
from IP address 99.194.24.88


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Re: changing F.I. to carb on Buell engine

by (Login ruger45)
Horsemen

I'm not an expert on this but if it's just the motor you're starting out with,the carb will probably bolt on with a new intake.After all, It's a Sportster motor on steroids from what I know about them.

Posted on Dec 3, 2009, 10:44 PM
from IP address 99.154.121.166


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I've got a sporty bottom with Buell..

by (Login woodhawg)
Horsemen

top but it is the old style Buell. Is yours the XB style motor with the two big ugly square boxes to hold the push rods or do you have 4 round tubes with 1 pushrod in each. I can help you with the later.

Posted on Dec 4, 2009, 10:44 AM
from IP address 65.6.150.237


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Its not mine yet

by tom whitfield (Login h.tom)
Horsemen

I'm second in line to buy it. Its the XB with the boxy pushrod covers.
On another site I read where someone with a XB replaced the F.I. with a CV and it ran better.

Posted on Dec 4, 2009, 3:32 PM
from IP address 99.194.24.88


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Cheap tech tip

by (Login hdshack)
Horsemen

You all may know this one already. but the easest way to dissasemble your pushrod tubes is with a length of 3/8 cotton rope. loop it around the tube, twist it up to tighten the noose, pull it down, pop the clip out. You don`t mess up the tubes and its easy to carry in you tool roll. Shack
[linked image]
[linked image]
[linked image]

Posted on Dec 2, 2009, 10:33 AM
from IP address 173.21.15.38


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Friggin' awesome....

by (Login wilbertsmith)
Horsemen

hadn't heard that one before, and that has always been one of my least favorite chores on a motor, getting those pain in the ass clips loose. Have to try that next time.

"There are three -and only three- kinds of people in this world: those who don't know they're damaged and blame others; those who realize they're damaged and blame others; and then people like you and me, who wear damage like comfortable pajamas."

Posted on Dec 2, 2009, 3:54 PM
from IP address 70.6.72.175


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Cool

by (Login hogluvr)
Horsemen

Will have to try that when I swap cams in the slabside, thanks!

Posted on Dec 2, 2009, 6:08 PM
from IP address 71.74.224.231


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Excellent Idea - Thanks

by (Login ExJaded)
Horsemen

As these old hands & wrists hurt worse & worse year after year, any trick like this helps. I've hurt myself & got pissed not just a few times getting these damn things out & back in. And it's funny; sometimes all goes well. Other times one will be a bitch to get back in. I think how you hold your face has a lot to do with it ;>)

Old, worn down & still Jaded

Posted on Dec 3, 2009, 9:29 AM
from IP address 68.1.167.13


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Now show us...

by Dennis..73sho (Login ..73sho)
Horsemen

A real easy way to install those rascals without prying on the fins. (NO fancy tool) a big thanks if you have an idea.

Posted on Dec 4, 2009, 5:29 PM
from IP address 70.245.178.119


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Reinstalling the clips

by (Login hdshack)
Horsemen

Well reinstalling the clip are a little hard but not that bad. I always get the top tube in the head.Then setup my rope to pull the collar down. Then set your clip into the top of the tube and use you thumb to hold it up or you could use a pair of pliers. ( the upper tube likes to come down when you are pulling on the rope). Then pull down on the rope and collar and snap the clip in. works like a charm for me. Shack

Posted on Dec 4, 2009, 6:20 PM
from IP address 173.21.15.38


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beer flat

by Ironhead420 (Login Ironhead420)

push inner tube into seal in head, tear a piece of a cardboard beer flat or an empty match book and place behind collar so it doesn't catch on cylinder fin, push down collar with long flatblade screw stick, push top of clip up on the lip of inner tube, slide the bottom of the clip down the blade of the screw stick, and lift the stick handle while pushing bottom of clip, sounds like a lot but it becomes second nature.

Posted on Dec 7, 2009, 10:39 PM
from IP address 71.200.15.99


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simple trueing stand trick...

by (Login dflracing)
Horsemen

take the chain off before you start but this worked really well. probably old news to most guys but i felt like a genius.


[linked image]?t=1259758837

Coconut Customs: re-inventing the wheel one side at a time.

Posted on Dec 2, 2009, 8:03 AM
from IP address 71.162.89.158


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belt size

by (Login fxrchop)

good evening all. this is my 1st post here as a friend suggested that this is a good place to go if you're stuck on something, so here goes. 1st of all please have mercy as i am commiting blasphemy by installing a belt as a final drive on my new rigid shovel. my question is how do i determine belt size (# of teeth)? is it as simple as tying a piece of string around both installed pulleys' and using that as a starting point? ANY help would be GRE ATLY appreciated. thanks in advance.....8bawl (hello to El Potro if you see this)

Posted on Dec 1, 2009, 8:47 PM
from IP address 68.239.255.113


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Math time

by (Login LARGEJAMES)
Horsemen

pulley center to pulley center x 2=?
small pulley diameter x pie/2=?
large pulley diameter x pie/2=?

Add up all 3, this is your total belt circumference.

DO YOU LISTEN TO BIKER RADIO MAGAZINE?[linked image]
http://www.bikerradiomagazine.com

Posted on Dec 2, 2009, 5:37 AM
from IP address 69.209.78.54


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i hate to disagree

by jw (Premier Login jmwlr)
Horsemen

with anyone named 'large james', but that's only really true if both pullies are the same diameter.


Posted on Dec 2, 2009, 4:44 PM
from IP address 74.235.109.144


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calculating the length of a toothed belt

by jw (Premier Login jmwlr)
Horsemen

(same as calculating length of a chain)

is done by using the following equation:

2
L= 2C + (N + n) + (N - n)
-------- --------
2
2 4 pi C

where L = length of belt in number of pitches (or number of teeth)

C = center distance in pitches

N = number teeth on big sprocket

n = number teeth on small sprocket


example... so say it's an 5/8" pitch chain, the front sprocket has 23 teeth, the rear sprocket has 51 teeth, and the center distance between sprockets is 26"


C = 26"/.625 = 41.6 (pitches)

N = 51

n = 23

so

L = (2 x 41.6) + (51 + 23)/2 + [(51-23)^2]/(4 pi^2 C)

simplifying the above gives us

L = 83.2 + 37 + 784/2273.9

120.6, so

L = 120 links (chain) or 120 teeth (belt)






Posted on Dec 2, 2009, 5:58 PM
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formatting problem

by jw (Premier Login jmwlr)
Horsemen

my exponents shifted

so in scientific notation,

L = 2C + (N + n)/2 + (N - n)^2 / 4 pi^2 C

(x^2 means x squared)




Posted on Dec 2, 2009, 6:02 PM
from IP address 74.235.109.144


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belt length

by Bob (Login fxrchop)

jw....i'm a math loser and that equation scared the shit outta me! front sprocket has 23 teeth, rear 48....work your magic PLEASE!.....thanks a heap.

Posted on Dec 2, 2009, 7:14 PM
from IP address 68.239.255.113


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not enough info

by jw (Premier Login jmwlr)
Horsemen

i need the distance between the pully centers and the belt pitch

actually, on a final drive where you have adjustment, it's not as critical as long as you get it within a tooth one way or the other.

in a fixed system like a primary, it's crucial that you know the exact tooth count.


give me the missing info and i'll figure it for you


Posted on Dec 2, 2009, 7:27 PM
from IP address 74.235.109.144


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info

by (Login fxrchop)

center to center is 20" and pitch is 9/16"(using my superglide as a guide).

Posted on Dec 2, 2009, 7:36 PM
from IP address 68.239.255.113


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belt pitch is normally in mm

by jw (Premier Login jmwlr)
Horsemen

9/16" is close to 14mm, so i'll assume it's a 14mm belt.






Posted on Dec 2, 2009, 7:46 PM
from IP address 74.235.109.144


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looks like

by jw (Premier Login jmwlr)
Horsemen

a 109 or 110 tooth belt would work, given the info you provided.

you really need to measure the center to center distance from the bike you're putting the belt on though, and measure it with the rear axle in the center of the adjustment slot.





Posted on Dec 2, 2009, 8:09 PM
from IP address 74.235.109.144


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dude

by jw (Premier Login jmwlr)
Horsemen

i'm looking at a catalog and i see nothing that looks like 23/48 ratios in belt drive pulleys.

i think you must be counting teeth on chain sprockets? that aint gonna help you.

you'd better go back and make sure you know what you have before you buy any belts.


Posted on Dec 2, 2009, 8:22 PM
from IP address 74.235.109.144


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yeah-i'm SOL

by (Login fxrchop)

yeah as soon as i measured the 20" distance i figured i was in trouble....chain drive it is!....thanks

Posted on Dec 2, 2009, 8:26 PM
from IP address 68.239.255.113


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garbage in, garbage out

by jw (Premier Login jmwlr)
Horsemen

you need the tooth counts of the pulleys you are going to use and the measurement from the bike you're putting the belt on, as well as the tooth pitch.

otherwise you're just wasting your time and mine.


Posted on Dec 2, 2009, 8:29 PM
from IP address 74.235.109.144


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belt length

by (Login fxrchop)

the measurement for the belt(ie the 20") is from the shovel, the belt tooth to tooth center is from my superglide and i am assuming(oh no) that measurement is pretty much the same for all belts......THANKS A HEAP!!!!

Posted on Dec 2, 2009, 8:23 PM
from IP address 68.239.255.113


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WOULD'NT IT BE EASIER TO JUST RUN A CHAIN

by SA (Login harderfasterchoppers)
Horsemen



Posted on Dec 2, 2009, 10:27 PM
from IP address 24.208.160.247


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Chain and belt calculators

by (Login LARGEJAMES)
Horsemen

http://www.gearingcommander.com/

http://www.micromagicsystems.com/#/timing-belt/4523812799

DO YOU LISTEN TO BIKER RADIO MAGAZINE?[linked image]
http://www.bikerradiomagazine.com

Posted on Dec 2, 2009, 11:22 PM
from IP address 69.209.66.247


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Storage buildings

by feets (Login feets)
Horsemen

I have an issue with water condensing on my motorcycles while stored in cold weather. I havevents in the gables. I was told that there had to be airflow beneath the building. It is underpenned but had 6 ffow thru vent areas. Is there anything i can do besides heat the building? Already ruined some parts on my 98 model cruiser.
feets

Posted on Dec 1, 2009, 5:50 PM
from IP address 24.74.119.45


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condensation

by (Login rocknturtle)

I have had that problem and my building isn't even underpinned but I have not had any trouble with damage or ruining anything. what did it ruin?

Posted on Dec 1, 2009, 8:13 PM
from IP address 184.0.11.192


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fans

by SA (Login harderfasterchoppers)
Horsemen

I have 2 box fans like you get at wall mart in my building 60x80 12' ceilings that keeps the condensation out SA

Posted on Dec 1, 2009, 8:47 PM
from IP address 24.208.160.247


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Feets, its due to our being in Florida..... remember that the

by (Login LightninMike)
Horsemen

first 7 miles inland will get salt air...... as well, even tho it gets "cold" to us, the amount of heat exchanged in a day is what causes the condensation..... its is humid here on a dry day....... wax the crap outta things before you store them, and use an automotive engine "brightener" to protect that which you dont polish........spray it on heavy....... the down side of this stuff is that it can eat through old gaskets, although it shouldn't......it doesn't really eat the gaskets but help to dry them out and they lose their flexibility, crack and in turn leak......

Keep on Keepin ON!!!!
Lightnin Mike

Posted on Dec 2, 2009, 9:05 AM
from IP address 71.57.189.120


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Damp rid

by (Login loungelizzard)
Horsemen

I always use a couple buckets of damp rid. I put a bucket under the dust cover, just under the motor. You should be able to find it at wal mart. Also some carpet on the floor seems to help...Mule...

DON"T BLAME ME I VOTED FOR THE AMERICAN !!!

Posted on Dec 2, 2009, 10:05 AM
from IP address 207.69.139.133


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you know

by jbfrmca (Login jbfrmca)
Horsemen

i kinda remember a guy in a old easyreader mag that used pledge furniture polish on his bike. he lived in hawaii and had his chrome for about 20 years with no problems. he also used some kind of cover and a wand that heated up to keep everything dry. if i ever run across it i'll post it.

a biker rides anything because life is simply unaccepatable otherwhise

Posted on Dec 2, 2009, 11:14 AM
from IP address 69.62.133.203


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Couple of things I've been wondering about....

by (Login sixball)
Horsemen

I moved my shop this summer, my old place was 24 x 24 stick built with concrete floor, 12 foot open rafters, roof leaked in afew places and it go kinda damp, but I was carefull where I put tools etc.. So the leaks wouldn't f anything up.

Condensation was a bitch there, the floor was so oil soaked from years of the stuff I worked on leaking. after a summer rain and humidity, the WHOLE floor would be wet.

The place I have now is double the space, but half block and half stick, no leaky roof, BUT I've seen a problem with flash rust ????

EXAMPLE: I cut an old chrome headlight mount to make an L-bracket mount one night, the very next day I went to the shop to finish it and noticed all around the edges wher I cut were orange with flash rust. Didn't rain that night, normal 60 degree late summer night in Indiana.

As I looked around the shop, nails from construction I'd been working on, were orange too, it rubs right off, but in my old shop that was wet 40% of the time, I never had flash rust at all ????

I don't have any vents, gonna install some before next summer, but anyone got any ideas on the flash rust?

I even had some old waferstyle throwought bearing oil slingers laying on the bench and noticed afew places were orange. These things sat in the old shop for years with NO flash rust. WTF ???


Sixball

Posted on Dec 2, 2009, 3:53 PM
from IP address 98.213.13.213


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how about..................

by (Login LARGEJAMES)
Horsemen

A small dehumidifier?

DO YOU LISTEN TO BIKER RADIO MAGAZINE?[linked image]
http://www.bikerradiomagazine.com

Posted on Dec 3, 2009, 4:05 AM
from IP address 69.209.66.247


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I was thinking about that

by (Login sixball)
Horsemen

But I'm just confused as to "why" the flash rust occurs when it's dry in there, and no rust in the old shop with it being wet at times ???

This will be my first winter in there, so maybe with the furnace kicking on and off that will dry the air, then run the dehumidifier in the summer ???


Thanks
Sixball

Posted on Dec 3, 2009, 12:20 PM
from IP address 64.12.117.71


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it is the moisture in the air that is causing the flash rust a dehumidifier would help

by (Login carll1886)
Horsemen



Posted on Dec 3, 2009, 4:37 PM
from IP address 207.179.73.24


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JUST A THOUGHT.

by (Login LARGEJAMES)
Horsemen

Salt absorbs water, how's about a couple of salt blocks?
Any farm supply store should have them.

DO YOU LISTEN TO BIKER RADIO MAGAZINE?[linked image]
http://www.bikerradiomagazine.com

Posted on Dec 4, 2009, 6:07 AM
from IP address 68.255.100.141


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Yeah, I'll try ........

by (Login sixball)
Horsemen

To wire up a de-humidifier I bought at a garage sale awhile back, and I might as well pick up afew salt blocks at the farm store. Thanks, good tips, even though I hijacked the thread ......

I still just can't get my head around where the moisture is comming from. It was actually a drier summer than normal around here, and I never noticed any condensation. I've been working on the shop and added some insulation here and there, replaced two garage doors, and it's sealed pretty tight

Sixball

Posted on Dec 4, 2009, 11:06 AM
from IP address 205.188.117.71


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Airflow underneath is crucial in my book...

by (Login laconiatic)
Horsemen

But the guy who said "were in Florida" has a point , too. So maybe salt air, not air flow it is not your issue. But that being said, I had a cedar wood shed that sat on a blacktop driveway. I paid extra for the heavy duty floor and it was up on bricks/4x4's and had a ramp to ride in as well as 2 gable vents. This made a huge difference over the old cheap ass metal shed with plywood floor on the grass with no room underneath. I now have a garage, and this was all in a PA climate, but helped a lot.

Posted on Dec 5, 2009, 1:25 PM
from IP address 165.123.243.168


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Hotrodders use a thing called "Goldenrod"

by (Login pissedoffrider)
Horsemen

it's a plug in heater type dehumidifyer that you put under/in your vechicle and a tarp-non waterproof, over it. It's designed for just that problem.

Posted on Dec 6, 2009, 3:22 PM
from IP address 72.90.41.124


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Shovel cutting out???

by Jay (Login jayzchopp)
Horsemen

starts great idles fine starts cutting out under a load??? acts like starving for fuel or a short some where? just rewired this summer and fuel looks clean WTF

Jay

...O~`o

Posted on Dec 1, 2009, 3:29 PM
from IP address 129.230.248.1


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start with the easy stuff

by jbfrmca (Login jbfrmca)
Horsemen

points,plugs,condenser, fuel,gas cap, fuel filter,battery,air filter,advance unit,wiring. just cause it's new doesn't mean it's good. one time buttcracks bike started breaking up on the freeway. so we did a little looking. come to find out his battery was dry. put water in it and it got us home. BTW this was in north Carolina. so you never know until you check.

a biker rides anything because life is simply unaccepatable otherwhise

Posted on Dec 2, 2009, 12:03 AM
from IP address 69.62.133.203


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after checking above..

by stick93 (Login stick93)
Horsemen

if it still breaks up under load try a new/different coil, they can act like that too. Stick

Posted on Dec 2, 2009, 5:54 AM
from IP address 98.70.44.223


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mecanical advance

by (Login sprcycle)
Horsemen

if you run a mecanical advance I would have a look at it.......

Posted on Dec 3, 2009, 7:58 AM
from IP address 24.200.90.145


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Can anyone tell me difference in clutch plates between '70-earlier and '71-up Ironheads??

by (Login hogluvr)
Horsemen

Doing a rebuild on my '66, need to make some tools, want to make one out of a clutch plate to hold my clutch hub so I can loosen the sprocket, what is the difference between a 900 clutch plate and a 1000?

Posted on Dec 1, 2009, 1:21 AM
from IP address 71.74.224.231


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Actually '72 was the first of the 1000's....

by (Login wilbertsmith)
Horsemen

from what I can see in the catalogs I have here, it looks like they changed the clutch basket. A buddy of mine has a 1971, and it seems like they did a lot of changing around and experimenting from 70-72.

"There are three -and only three- kinds of people in this world: those who don't know they're damaged and blame others; those who realize they're damaged and blame others; and then people like you and me, who wear damage like comfortable pajamas."

Posted on Dec 1, 2009, 4:18 AM
from IP address 173.127.175.245


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Primary difference is wet clutch vrs. dry

by ed (Login small_e_900)
Horsemen

pre-'71 are wet clutches.
Use Barnett plates, they work wet or dry.

Posted on Dec 1, 2009, 5:01 AM
from IP address 24.93.136.165


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Ed, I think you have that back wards.

by (Login hog4u)
Horsemen

I have had several '72 all with wet clutches.

Pat

Posted on Dec 7, 2009, 9:51 PM
from IP address 24.162.235.32


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I'm just wondering if the splines would line up...

by (Login hogluvr)
Horsemen

If the newer clutch plate would physically fit in an older clutch shell. A friend offered up a newer-style clutch plate so I can make a tool and wonder if it would work in the older shell...

Posted on Dec 1, 2009, 9:38 AM
from IP address 71.74.224.231


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Have him come by with it.....

by (Login wilbertsmith)
Horsemen

and see if it lines up, if so use it, if not, you aren't out anything but a little bit of time.

"There are three -and only three- kinds of people in this world: those who don't know they're damaged and blame others; those who realize they're damaged and blame others; and then people like you and me, who wear damage like comfortable pajamas."

Posted on Dec 1, 2009, 11:49 PM
from IP address 99.204.196.155


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Well, that'd work out just fine...

by (Login hogluvr)
Horsemen

if he wasn't in WA state and I wasn't in Cleveland Ohio...

Posted on Dec 1, 2009, 11:58 PM
from IP address 71.74.224.231


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