Hey guys, any input would be appreciated, Last nite coming home from a bar my 1988 Flt suddenly lost air in the back tire. Left bike overnite at the curb. Next mornig I showed up with my jack and lo and behold, no nail, no tear, no hole, nothing. Tried to air up with my portable tank but bead was broke on both sides. 125.00 towing charge. My question is when I take the tubeless tire off the cast rim can I put a tube in it so this doesnt happen again?. Thanks, Tom
Posted on Nov 15, 2009, 10:43 PM from IP address 70.253.175.0
as long as the valve stem hole lines up with the valve stem on the tube and it is long enough to get through.
"There are three -and only three- kinds of people in this world: those who don't know they're damaged and blame others; those who realize they're damaged and blame others; and then people like you and me, who wear damage like comfortable pajamas."
Posted on Nov 16, 2009, 5:17 AM from IP address 174.144.57.227
Just got an 01 Buell , with a power commander on it . Iam a points and carb guy my second newest bike is a 76 , so I am trying to feel my way out around this thing . Its damn sure the fastest thing i have ever ridden but it does idle high and run a little rich idles at 1000 cold and about 1500 once its warmed up i tried pushing the little buttons on the module but it didnt do anything , I dont have the usb cable and if i did i wouldnt know what to do with it . any help is always appreacited
Posted on Nov 15, 2009, 5:43 PM from IP address 64.12.117.71
is the pump made for generator cases?
is it oil pump assembly part number 31-6200
does the pump body have the number 31-6048 on it?
if those numbers don't ring a bell on what you have, you might have the wrong pump.
the problem i see coming on is just what hole are you talking about?
if you drill the hole like is needed on 73-80 cases you will screw up and you will pass through the tappet screen bore... big time pressure leak that's going to suck rocks to fix.
just last week i did a 66 and converted it to to an end oiling pinion shaft. the drilling there is only needed if you convert the pinion oiling system.
if you just mount up the S&S pump without converting to end oiling, no drilling is needed, just bolt it on and go...
http://www.network54.com/Forum/47850/message/1257643225/end+oiling+a+generator+shovel...
if your talking drilling on the angle like this in generator cases you will regret it many times over...
I would like to put a set of rider floorboards on my 83 wideglide. Since I don't want the typical chrome bolt on stuff, I am thinking about making a set in the garage. What ideas do you guys have for the mounting?
Thanks,
Buy the ticket-take the ride!
pappyvanwinkle
Posted on Nov 15, 2009, 10:28 AM from IP address 71.211.167.115
i fukin got it!!!! thanks for all the help guys,, after having the battery load tested,, found out it was a dud.. go figure,, i was a little reluctant to swap it because it was tucked under the oil bag and between the rear fender tight fit,, but well worth the fight....
also after starting it,, oil ran every where from the oil lines feeding the heads,, seem the tubes are about a quarter inch too short,, anybody got ma remedy for this one??? or where can i get tubing too make new lines custom fit?? thanks again guys,, whata headache
Posted on Nov 14, 2009, 9:18 PM from IP address 174.101.85.1
The left turn signals on my 2002 Sportster are not working.When I hit the switch the front goes out and rear glows dim and slow.I've swapted bulbs around and changed the turn signal module.After I changed the module they worked for a short while but have stopped for the past few years.I've checked all the grounds I know.Don't care about the signals but want to change the rear lights to LEDs.
Posted on Nov 14, 2009, 1:26 PM from IP address 64.138.238.68
wire to ground. Like it is pinched and grounding but not making a good ground because of the insulation. If it was a solid ground it would pop the breaker. Check the wires running thru the fender and struts...Good luck in your hunt...Mule...
DON"T BLAME ME I VOTED FOR THE AMERICAN !!!
Posted on Nov 15, 2009, 3:46 PM from IP address 207.69.137.11
Ignition side and charging side. With a mag you leave out the entire ign side save the plugs.
Then you have the charging system, whether stock components or aftermarket "box".
The aftermarket is the simplest, two wires come out of your primary go into the 'box', 2 coming out of the 'box' go to ground and battery (or capacitor) 'hot'.
whats it take to make this not happen. new seal didnt work, maybe heavy axle grease. i know on some engine shafts one can put a seal saver on. i know were talking 40 year old technology tring to keep from minor drools. thanks james
Posted on Nov 13, 2009, 6:25 PM from IP address 209.183.55.115
Here's the prob. 1982 FXR, basically stock. Thought the starter (prestolite) bad. Replaced it and still sounds like its locking up. I removed the starter, and removed the housing off the back of the inner primary that the starter bolts to. I found the gear that goes on the splined shaft is loose. Does this gear get pressed on the shaft? is it supposed to move back and forth on the shaft? this seems like a very complicated design. solenoid mounts next to the starter housing, kicks the shaft into the primary to turn the ring gear, starter at the same time is supposed to turn this drive gear, but it seems that because it is loose on the shaft it is getting bound up and the starter sounds like it is getting locked too. Man what the hell was Harley smoking when they came up with this starter design. its a total clusterfuck. Anyone got any ideas how I gotta fix this thing? Thanks in advance for the advice.
If it works for ya..........use it till it breaks.
Posted on Nov 13, 2009, 4:25 PM from IP address 68.230.253.22
just slides on the shaft. It is not supposed to be real sloppy on the shaft, but it is no hard fit. It is just a simple gear reduction.Early rubber mounts were noted for bad ground problems, and if you still have original cables they might not be able to deliver the load. Check your gear and shaft for wear and if worn replace the worn parts. I have seen a lot of rubber mounts fry armatures,and burn out new starters because of cable problems. Good luck...Mule...
DON"T BLAME ME I VOTED FOR THE AMERICAN !!!
Posted on Nov 13, 2009, 7:42 PM from IP address 207.69.139.142
i've got an 82 fxr, got it bone stock from the original owner, had same problem, went through the wiring [as i nixed all the gauges, signals etc], re wired what i was keeping and put in a new battery. nomore problem.
Posted on Nov 13, 2009, 9:38 PM from IP address 69.12.183.149
bike is under the transmission and goes from the frame to the back side of the inner primary . Very dirty spot with a chain . Then the battery ground goes to the frame from the negative post . With a poor connection on the primary and ss braided cables guess what it uses for ground ! So then I needed cables too!
Posted on Nov 14, 2009, 6:58 PM from IP address 69.8.40.44
i replaced the short cable under the tranny, it was that stock braided one and was just about completely shredded up. still connected, but not a good connection.
Posted on Nov 14, 2009, 9:31 PM from IP address 69.12.183.149
Looking to see if anybody would make a kit to fit a 19" rim on a WG front with dual disk front? Rim came from an FXR and I would like to make it fit my bike. Is there a way to do this?
ScottyR
Posted on Nov 13, 2009, 3:59 PM from IP address 75.57.208.202
there is a kit avalible it includes spacers to go inbetween the hub and the brake rotors and an axel ans well as a few other tid bits....it is a bit pricy in my opinion.....or you could have a 19" rim laced to a wideglide hub, which would look nicer I think.
Posted on Nov 13, 2009, 8:06 PM from IP address 74.65.10.134
on my Pan years ago to mount a Sportster drum brake. I turned down a wide glide axle to fit the bearings, left enough of the original dia on the right side and made a spacer on the other side to center the wheel. It worked - ran it a few years
Posted on Nov 13, 2009, 9:36 PM from IP address 71.203.53.65
front end..... here's the website i got my spacers from for the disks...... lined right up and no problems..... just take accurate measurements and you will get it
We have success! After asking around here a while ago and picking up a couple more ideas on the net I put this thing together. My welding still sucks but that will improve (hopefully) with practice. I love makin' things...
[IMG][/IMG]
Posted on Nov 13, 2009, 2:29 PM from IP address 71.74.224.231
My bruh has a late model fuel injected Softail. He has freshly painted tin, and is leary of switching the fuel pump out of the old tank into the new one. The manual says to loosen the pump, and break it loose from its mount,then slide out.
It looks like this could easily fuck up sump'n expensive. Any o' you Harley wrench guys have any wisdom to offer?
Posted on Nov 13, 2009, 6:54 AM from IP address 70.113.193.254
My bud has changed mine twice 1st time it was a bitch 2nd looked at the book it was easiy. By the way does anyone know if the controls from a softail 95? or 96 interchange with 03 RK injected. Softail's got apes I can get for FREE and put in my RK
Posted on Nov 13, 2009, 8:25 AM from IP address 64.20.158.245
It's not a big deal once you get the little clip on the bottom side of the pump located. You need to do that in order to get the whole assembly out. When it goes back in be careful with the float as you can easily tweak it and throw your guage off. A little tape around the upening wouldnt be a bad idea
Posted on Nov 13, 2009, 11:24 AM from IP address 63.241.148.2
hey guys does anyone have tips on the best way to make sure your weld-on hardtail stays straight whithout access to a jig? im choppin an xs650 and im worried that when i go to weld up the hardtail it will get off center and will throw off the way it rolls down the road, which is not good. any tips on this and any other xs tips are more then welcome. thanks.
Rusty
Posted on Nov 13, 2009, 1:04 AM from IP address 98.231.10.226
...insert a straight piece of rod, all-thread, copper pipe or whatever through the axle blocks clamping it tight to one side (front or back) of the axle block holes. This pipe should be about 4 feet long and set into the hardtail so that the left side just clears the axle block, leaving the rest of it's length hanging out the right side.
Measure and mark the rod in 2 places. First make a mark in the exact center between the two legs of your hardtail section. The second mark will be from that mark outward exactly 36" on the part of the rod hanging out.
Connect a string line to the frame's neck and send it down the center of the backbone to intersect with the rod. Now measure up the string starting at the rod and place a mark at 48" from the rod. Now to get the tail square with the backbone, your measurement should be 60" from the mark you made on the string to the 36" mark you made on the rod (hanging outside the tail). This is the mathematical quirk of the 3-4-5 triangle.
If you need to offset your tail to accommodate any mechanical issues (trans, sprocket, etc) and you move it say, 1-1/2" to the left, then that mark you made at 36" need to now be 37-1/2"...and so forth.
Good luck.
.
.
Posted on Nov 13, 2009, 9:27 AM from IP address 24.56.45.29
I put a 3/4" rod on the axle plates. Then strapped a piece of angle iron across the front down tubes. And I measured from the tip of the rod to the angle iron on both ends. when they were equal that where I welded it.
Tom "Fusc"
Posted on Nov 13, 2009, 9:05 PM from IP address 70.101.164.249
Because I can't get my bike idle properly, I strongly suspect that I have an intake leak. Now, I have'nt
taken the time to really get at this thing and try to put it back together so as to stop the leak, but I
was wondering. Are there any tricks to put it back together so it does'nt leak? Are there any options out
there for a replacement manifold that is one piece without those pain in the ass rubber seals? Any ideas?
Thanks guys. Ron
Posted on Nov 12, 2009, 7:25 PM from IP address 174.118.136.7
with the o ring type seal you can wrap the seals with friction tape .....i've done that on sporties and shovels with some success......also....when you're rebuilding the top end next time leave the heads just a bit loose....put the intake manifold up where it goes and twist the heads a bit to get the best fit....then finish torqueing them down
steve
www.nomadmachineworks.com
Posted on Nov 12, 2009, 7:37 PM from IP address 174.18.66.96
are you talking about the tape like you would put on a baseball bat or something different? also would a head gasket leak cause a lean condition as well as the manifold
Posted on Nov 14, 2009, 9:21 AM from IP address 98.203.204.16
I picked up some old headlamps from Chopper Larry here, and one of the three I got from him I am planning to use on my current Triumph build. Problem is, the chrome portion of the reflector is corroded. What can I do to recon the reflector? Send it out for rechroming? is there an alternative?
Skint
Posted on Nov 12, 2009, 4:53 PM from IP address 199.209.144.211
likely take the services of a re-silvering company. Try Rod and Custom magazine or Street Rodder magazine, or their websites for car type outfits that deal in that kind of work. 'Nother source would be the Antique Car Club of America, or the Antique Motorcyle Club of America, or Paul Wheeler at his museum and rehab shop. Hope this helps
Posted on Nov 12, 2009, 7:22 PM from IP address 216.211.15.92
there are repops for mose sizes if you look around.
if there is an old tractor parts place near by they may have them on the shelf.
old tractor work or head lights can be a gold mine of light parts. i have used the shell of oliver tractor headlights on bikes that had those reflectors in them. i converted mine to use H-4 lamps inside. the one i used was the normal 5 3/4" diameter. seems like there are 4", 4 1/2", 5 3/4" maybe 6" and pretty sure there are 7" lights around.
'stupid signature words go here'
Posted on Nov 12, 2009, 11:46 PM from IP address 75.218.173.190
I put them all back in the box they were shipped in while I am reworking my garage. I am gonna guess at something like 5 3/4" but not positive. Got a few tractor places around here, and appreciate the tips from all of you.
On a side note.....fiberglass is a mutherfucker! that spray expanding foam is some nasty stuff too....sticky....bleh. So now, I am itchy, and if I scratch it I embed more of the shit in my arms..... At least I will have a nice warm place to work this winter though.
Posted on Nov 13, 2009, 9:58 AM from IP address 199.209.144.211
ok i figured out the battery is dead, thanks for alll the input from last weeek, but still having starter problems,, all this has happened since i removed the rocker boxes for polishing so it has too be something im doing..
is it possible to have adjusted the pushrods tooo much and now its causeing unneeded stress on the engine at the point of ignition, and wont allow it to
turn over putting everything in a bind,, i tried to jump it with a truck battery,, and that will turn it over once until it begins to peter out,,
i think i have an incorrect adjustment,, and a weak battery as well....
any ideas????
Posted on Nov 12, 2009, 2:31 PM from IP address 174.101.85.1
i have re-adjusted the valves/pushrods,, and tried to jump the bike w/an
automotive 12 volt battery,,, it still wont turn over more than once,,,
if i take out the spark plugs it turns over fine, almost like the compression'is keeping it from making more than one revolution,,,
any suggestions?? thanks
Posted on Nov 12, 2009, 4:24 PM from IP address 174.101.85.1
First, see if your battery cables are good or if there is a break (use a VOM with a continuity test on it). If that is ok, have the battery load tested. Also, make sure your battery connections are secure. Just a couple of ideas for you to check. Make sure you have a good ground as well. I was stranded on the side of the road once a while back because the negative cable had broken, and by the time I noticed it the battery was toast. Could be the starter is weak, too. Not a real expert, but thought I would give you a couple of options based on some of my experiences. Best of luck to you.
"There are three -and only three- kinds of people in this world: those who don't know they're damaged and blame others; those who realize they're damaged and blame others; and then people like you and me, who wear damage like comfortable pajamas."
Posted on Nov 12, 2009, 9:58 PM from IP address 173.116.60.155
Open all four pushrod tubes. Rotate the engine until the FRONT intake valve is fully open and adjust the REAR intake valve. Open the FRONT exhaust valve fully and adjust the REAR exhaust valve. Then adjust the front cylinder valves by opening the corresponding rear cylinder valves.
With the opposite cylinder's valve fully open, you can be certain that the valve on the cylinder that you're adjusting is fully seated.
Posted on Nov 13, 2009, 5:08 AM from IP address 24.93.136.165
It seems as if you will need to actually get a few parts. Your mention is of jumping the battery. Why not actually get the batt tested and replace it if needed. Find an auto electrical repair shop and get the STARTER tested.
I have a 72 and went thru the same problems your going thru.
I replaced the battery, I cleaned VERY GOOD, batt terminals, cable terminals at batt, grnd terminal at grnd point on frame, clean frame at contact point, clean batt cable where it goes on the solenoid, clean cable from solenoid at solenoid and where it connects to starter. Just because they look clean they may not be clean. BE SURE to leave one end of the grnd cable off while cleaning the cables.
For the hell of it replace the starter relay. If you have the old mechanical type change it to the later type which is incased in plastic. When I replaced mine the indy dealer drew me a diagrmham of where to put wires. You will need to crimp terminal ends on the wires.
Take the starter and have it rebuilt just for the hell of it.
Take the solenoid off and very gently remove the plastic cap. Inside is a shaft, washers, spring, check and see if they are burnt or pitted. You can disassembly these and turn over the washer. If both sides are pitted lay a piece of fine emery cloth or paper on a flat surface and lay washer flat and clean it up, both sides. Be gentle and watch which small and large posts come out of which hole and be sure to get back in correct holes.
Now your starting system should be good to go.
I do not know your mechanical ability. Maybe take to an indy shop and get repaired.
Perviously I told you these are a money pit and I was not shitting you.
Other members if I missed anything please add what I missed.
Elevators smell like ass to midgets
Posted on Nov 13, 2009, 11:44 AM from IP address 208.102.124.197
My name is Jason I'm new to the board but I work at a shop in Dallas called Strokers Dallas my old shovel did that to me and it was the starter relay if you have the plastic kind the cap may be cracked and that will cause it not to function correctly.Unless your made of money don't just toss parts at the problem you need to start and the simplest thing first the battery then wiring then the relay then the starter. Test everything before you replace it if it isn't broke don't fix it I hope that helps.
Posted on Nov 13, 2009, 1:31 PM from IP address 208.189.74.214
The starter relay on these are seperate from the starter and or solenoid. I think the plastic cap your refering too is on the solenoid. Relay in stock location is just under and slightly rearward of batt box on left side.
Elevators smell like ass to midgets
Posted on Nov 13, 2009, 2:37 PM from IP address 208.102.124.197
I'M SORRY IM A LIL TIRED BUT YES I WAS TALKING ABOUT THE SOLENOID BEEN WORKING ON MY OLD SHOVEL ALL NIGHT TODAY IS MY OFF DAY FROM WORK TRYING TO MOCK UP NEW FLYRITE FRAME TO ACCECPT 79 SHOVEL WITH 99 SOFTAIL TRANS. BUT LIKE I SAID GET A WIRING DIAGRAM IF YOU DON'T HAVE ONE I CAN GET ONE FROM WORK IN THE MORNING AND EMAIL IT TO YOU AND START AND THE BEGINING AND GO TO THE END TESTING EVERYTHING YOU WILL FIND THE PROBLEM EVENUALLY.
Posted on Nov 13, 2009, 3:25 PM from IP address 208.189.74.214
Be sure timing is as dead on as possible, especially with points. If running points give very serious thought to a dynas "S" ignition system with a 5 ohm " black in color" coil. A little pricey but one of the best improvements I ever made.
Nothing on these old beasts is cheap. If costs is a problem maybe a later model in better condition.
Quite a few ironheads are similar to raceing bikes, racers you work on all week so you can race on weekends. Others you work on all week to ride on the weekend.
Elevators smell like ass to midgets
Posted on Nov 13, 2009, 11:52 AM from IP address 208.102.124.197
dead battery still in the bike and hooked up ? And your using booster cables from the truck battery ? If so and the dead battery is actually shorted internally it won't matter how big your booster battery is it will get dead from the internal short . Try hooking your truck battery direct to the cables on the m/c without the dead battery in it . Red
Posted on Nov 14, 2009, 6:55 PM from IP address 69.8.40.44
in order for me to use a early 70s 4 speed trans with my 53 pan what doi need to do as far as spacing? can i just space the motor sprocket out the amount of length in main shaft or what? thanks for any input going in a 69 swing arm frame.
Posted on Nov 11, 2009, 4:36 PM from IP address 74.172.207.253
I believe the shaft from a stock pan is tapered with a keyway, rather than splined like later (ie shovel) sprocket shafts. Best bet would probably be to make an offset tranny plate with an offset sprocket. I don't think anyone makes an offset motor sprocket for the tapered shafts.
"There are three -and only three- kinds of people in this world: those who don't know they're damaged and blame others; those who realize they're damaged and blame others; and then people like you and me, who wear damage like comfortable pajamas."
Posted on Nov 12, 2009, 12:45 AM from IP address 173.126.255.19
I'm putting a slabside gennie motor with a tapered sprocket shaft into an old Jammer stock frame with a '70's ratchet-top tranny, didn't realize there would be problems. Looks like I'll be doing the same thing. Mainshafts on the trannies will switch right out?
Posted on Nov 12, 2009, 11:43 AM from IP address 71.74.224.231
only difference is length. Theres three shafts, one for up to '64,one for 65-69 and one for '70 up to early '77.
Sort of along the same solutions,I ran a '68 with a early tranny by flipping a solid motor sproket.
Posted on Nov 12, 2009, 6:50 PM from IP address 99.194.24.88
The motor's only 88 inches, but I want a good strong starter that won't wear out for a long time. Is a Tech starter the way to go?
Thanks -
''Let not him who is houseless pull down the house of another, but let him work diligently and build one for himself, thus by example assuring that his own shall be safe from violence when built.'' - Abraham Lincoln
Posted on Nov 11, 2009, 12:06 PM from IP address 67.65.103.34
that the stocker is usually the easiest to install without worrying about sourcing compatible reduction housings and all the other issues involved in fitting aftermarket to a presumably stock inner primary. For a hot mill, a big starter like the Tech or similar you suggest might prove to be what's needed. Thing is if you install the heavy starter, you should look at upgrading your bike's starter circuit wiring to something heavier and possibly your battery as well. The heavier starter may demand mor zots to do its job properly
Posted on Nov 11, 2009, 4:27 PM from IP address 216.211.15.91
...and I'm looking for a replacement with a little more "oomph". "Wood" on Backtalk suggested an All Balls starter. Looked into them, and they look well made, and although a little expensive, not outta the park. Do you know anything about them or any other brands that are reputed to be reliable and long-lasting?
Thanks -
''Let not him who is houseless pull down the house of another, but let him work diligently and build one for himself, thus by example assuring that his own shall be safe from violence when built.'' - Abraham Lincoln
Posted on Nov 11, 2009, 4:42 PM from IP address 67.65.103.34
starters supposedly come with a good rep. Cost seems in line with what they are hyped as being capable of. The best units from any american made source seem to rated around 2.0 kwh? (hope I got that rating spec correct) or higher. You'd probably need an electric motor techie to break the term down into whiteman's speak but that should be about enough to hump your 88 over methinks.
Posted on Nov 12, 2009, 7:17 PM from IP address 216.211.15.92
It's the newer ones with the metal inside coated on both sides.
I got it from a shop up the street from me.
I am not sure of the brand name. I think Cometic makes them.
First time I have had this sealed primary really hold oil with no spots under it.
It was not cheap. I really was grumbling about the price that day when I needed it and it was the only one I could get in a hurry, but the Fucker works.
It ain't a chopper if you ain't chopped it!
Posted on Nov 11, 2009, 10:58 AM from IP address 208.118.24.85
their "MLS" head gaskets are the only ones my 96" shovel doesn't go through almost instantly. They have lasted quite a while (actually until I took it apart this last time) with no problems. Most of the others were nearly worthless.
"There are three -and only three- kinds of people in this world: those who don't know they're damaged and blame others; those who realize they're damaged and blame others; and then people like you and me, who wear damage like comfortable pajamas."
Posted on Nov 11, 2009, 12:07 PM from IP address 68.24.104.255
i have always used the gasket with the red silicon impregnated into it....there's a trick to it.....first make sure your outer cover is flat...the way i do that is by using a scotch brite on an angle grinder...be careful not to break the edge of the chrome....then when you've installed the gasket and the outer cover torque the bolts to 125 in lbs....starting in the front and going in a circle....when you're done....go around again....if even one of the bolts moves....go around again.....keep going around and around until none of the bolts move.....i know that a lot of you are gonna laugh at this but i have a 81 shovel with a chrome outer that i've been useing that method on for over 10 years and i've never seen a drop of oil come out of it....and i use that same method on customers bikes and they don't leak......works for evo's too by the way....ok now.....let's see what kind of an argument i've started here
steve
oddball cycles / nomad machineworks
www.nomadmachineworks.com
Posted on Nov 11, 2009, 1:08 PM from IP address 174.18.66.96
actually what i use is a small angled die grinder with a roloc disc ...and i gotta be REAL careful.....if you look at a chrome outer cover you'll see that during the chroming process it puddles up on the gasket surface and you have to knock that down without breaking the edge.......cometic makes a GREAT gasket but the simple fact of life is that as a small shop owner i simply can't afford to keep them in stock.....so i've come up with ways to make the cheaper ones work.....it takes a little longer but in the end my customer is happy
Posted on Nov 12, 2009, 1:27 PM from IP address 174.18.66.96
Well, it's getting to be that time of the year, going forward with the winter projects. First up is my '66 Sporty, which will need a total rebuild. I am trying to lighten it up as much as I can before I pull the motor out of the frame, the heads/jugs etc. were already stripped of by the previous owner. I'd like to get the clutch assembly and transmission out of it before trying to lift this thing out. The tranny removal seems pretty simple and straight-forward, but looking at the clutch assembly it looks like I need special tools to remove it? I am going by a Clymer book 'cause my experience with the HD manuals is special tool this, special tool that, usually a screwdriver and a hammer will do the same thing
My question is, do I need special tools to pull the clutch hub and sprockets? I'm seeing a special tool to put between the clutch sprocket & engine sprocket (would think a piece of wood would suffice), a "Grabbit" tool to hold the clutch hub while the nut is removed, a special puller to remove the clutch hub, and a special wrench to remove the compensating sprocket shaft nut. Any way to get this stuff off without all the special tools? I will now open the floor to the more experienced here among us...
Posted on Nov 10, 2009, 9:56 PM from IP address 71.74.224.231
which isn't as vast as some on here, there are options to buying the special tools for the most part.
For the first tool, you are basically on the right track. You should be able to use a block of wood the proper size.
For the tool to hold the clutch hub, you can make one by welding a handle onto an old clutch plate.
The puller for the clutch hub, I don't know of any options for you and this is one I wouldn't take any chances with. It would be too easy to fuck up your clutch hub by improvising and putting stress on the wrong part of it.
Finally, for the compensator sprocket nut, what I have done is as follows. Take either a couple of reasonably long (1 1/2 to 2 inches should be fine) bolts or a couple of drift pins/ punches and put them into holes in opposite sides of the compensator sprocket nut and put a bar or rod of some kind of length between them and turn it to release the nut. I have done this a few times with no problems.
I hope all this helps, and best of luck to you.
"There are three -and only three- kinds of people in this world: those who don't know they're damaged and blame others; those who realize they're damaged and blame others; and then people like you and me, who wear damage like comfortable pajamas."
Posted on Nov 11, 2009, 3:39 AM from IP address 173.127.128.183
Those are all good ideas, I will have to try them. It looks like I could make the compensating sprocket nut wrench too, looks pretty simple. Thanks for the advice...
Posted on Nov 11, 2009, 9:47 AM from IP address 71.74.224.231
This is definitely a good start, thanks for sharing. Seeing as this is my first Sporty, I guess I'll have to find someone who has an old clutch plate laying around, all I have are the ones that came with it. Do you know if that puller is the same one I see all over the place for 3/5 finger clutch hubs, or is that a Big Twin-only puller, and I need something else for the Sporty?
Posted on Nov 11, 2009, 9:44 AM from IP address 71.74.224.231
What I do instead of trying to lift the motor out is lay a bunch of moving blankets on the ground, the lay the whole bike down on it. Unbolt the motor, lift the frame & the motor is out. Reverse to put back in (a little more tricky).
jred
caution, inc.
I'm not a real mechanic but I play one in my garage.
Posted on Nov 11, 2009, 9:26 AM from IP address 74.93.149.121
Think I saw it on here but forgot about it, definitely doable since I took the tins off to paint them, might actually save my back. Thanks for the reminder.
Posted on Nov 11, 2009, 9:48 AM from IP address 71.74.224.231
Motor had seized up. There were rags stuffed in the cam chest where he had taken the cams out, they fell out when I layed it on it's side, happened to take a look and there is a LOT of metal filings by the oil pump, I'm REALLY gonna have to go through this puppy...
Posted on Nov 13, 2009, 1:26 AM from IP address 71.74.224.231
Somebody suggested a "cheap tech tip Tuesday" a few weeks back. I posted one week before last. Sounded like a cool idea. Like to see it take off, so how about it. Anyone?
"There are three -and only three- kinds of people in this world: those who don't know they're damaged and blame others; those who realize they're damaged and blame others; and then people like you and me, who wear damage like comfortable pajamas."
Posted on Nov 10, 2009, 4:17 PM from IP address 173.127.188.86
go to your local quicky mart and get one of those poppers that the kids like so much. you know the ones that are made out of plastic and you have to pull the string to get it to pop. well after the kids have there fun grab it from them and then tape it to your throttle and or clutch cable.you see it's a perfect little funnel. fill it with your favorite lube then let gravity doo the rest. you might have to heat it up and modify it for some clutch cables but it'll work. been using the same one for years now. photobucket is messing with me or i'd post pics.
a biker rides anything because life is simply unaccepatable otherwhise
Posted on Nov 10, 2009, 6:41 PM from IP address 69.62.133.203
When you're getting that motor/trans lined up in that rigid frame and then find out something is "rocking", most people will reach for a thin washer and just hope they get the right thickness.
Two ways to do it right:
1) Take a beer can, cut some right-size circles out of it with tin snips. Take a leather punch or similar and make a hole in the middle of it. Make several and shim away, until it ain't rockin' no more.
Advantages: They won't rust and bleed orange down the side of the frame/motor mounts and they are cheap.
Disadvantage: They tend to wear or flatten as time passes, so you need to keep an eye on them.
2) Go to the local parts house (Checkers, Advance, etc) and ask for Chevy starter motor shims, used on every small block since 1954. They are still available and they come in several different thicknesses. Punch a hole, well, two holes, or cut 'em in half and punch one hole, and shim away.
Advantages: Cheap and they are in different sizes.
Disadvantages: They will rust eventually and bleed orange onto your pretty powder coating and some asshole may see them and make fun of you.
Most frames (after market) are made so well nowadays that a shim isn't needed for the motor mount, but you should always check.
But, every damn tranny I've ever worked on, in every rigid frame I've seen, that fifth mount that bolts to the tab on the right side frame rail must be shimmed.
I know some folks (I ain't never done it, uh, uh, not me, I've never done it) that ignore that and just torque it down.
I'm willing to bet that they end up cracking an inner primary or the tranny case, sooner or later or breaking the weld on the tab on the frame rail.
Just my .02 cents worth.
Posted on Nov 10, 2009, 8:01 PM from IP address 96.61.100.103
No screw driver Idle adjuster. Ace hardware has brass hardware for lamps, the part that screws into the switch, I got the short 1 and an 8-32 by 1 ½ screw. Drill the stem with a #29 bit, tap it 8-32. match the amount of threads sticking out of adjuster to the amount of threads on the original adjuster screw you removed from the carb. I just cut the head off the screw cleaned it up little, red lock tite and buried it in the stem. Remove the spring from the original and install on your new dohicky. Makes operating a kick starter allot easier. ¼ turn hot or cold and shell pop right off. $3.00 oh yeh made an index mark on the top of it with the same bit.
Posted on Nov 10, 2009, 9:01 PM from IP address 24.163.124.139
.....buy a cheap 33mm or 34mm socket, slim the outside down a little on a bench grinder (hold it in Vise Grips and turn it round and round against the wheel) and you have a perfect tool for driving home new tapered wheel bearing races.
.....if you are doing any shit that requires temporary handlebar or bar and risers removal, hang them with bungee/octopus/tie straps from a roof rafter in your garage or shed
....rip apart a thick cardboard box, fold a good length of it in half to crease it, then jam it under your Shovel oil tank drain hole for a no-mess oil change into a pan on the garage floor. Thick cardboard won't seep oil in that time.
Posted on Nov 11, 2009, 6:15 AM from IP address 165.69.13.180
On top of the copper sandwich (between the copper and the head). It's posted over on Shovelhead.USA, too, in the FAQ. Here's the part #: Evo gasket 65324-83. I've used this for a while, and even though it doesn't let the pipe seat all the way down, it does seal. Visually, you want the square cross section mesh gasket, not the later beveled one. It has to be stretched a little but it'll fit.
707
Posted on Nov 11, 2009, 7:49 AM from IP address 174.106.110.4
bike has electric start already - I want to put in a kick start tranny (5 spd if i can) (4 spd if I have to)- I want to have the option to use electric start and kick start - how do you go about doing this - if you can be specific that would be helpful a I ama an ignoramous - thanks
Posted on Nov 10, 2009, 4:14 PM from IP address 150.176.96.3
my memory is failing me. Can't remember what causes that. . . would it be running too advanced on the timing, not enough back pressure, or just a simple pushrod adjustment on the exhaust side? I notice when I rev it up to get to the next gear, roll of throttle to hit the clutch and shift and it throws out a pretty good pop out the exhaust.
I hate CRS! Wait, what does that stand for again?
Thanks,
CC
Posted on Nov 10, 2009, 10:54 AM from IP address 66.162.50.98
so a friend and me rebuild the motor in my bagger ( evo ) finally get it all buttoned up and about 3 weeks ago take it out on a Sunday to enjoy it now that felt the motor was broken in . I rode all day not really any problems get about 5 miles from my house and I am buzzing down the interstate and all of a sudden I notice the oil light start to flicker and the pressure gauge is almost at zero , so I immediately cut the bike off coast the side of the road, stand there and cuss for few minutes and then pull the dip stick and don't see a drop of oil on it and cant figure out for the life of me were the hell all my oil went. So I cuss somemore and I get on hands and knees and looking under the bike thinking ok the oil plug must have came out or something , but everything was intact nothing missing and dry as a bone . so I am standing there straching my head while all the jackasses pass me doing 65 or better just staring and waving at me while they drive by. So I call a friend tell him what's going on and ask him to bring his truck and some oil . Now while i am waiting for him I kinda get the sicken feeling that I had just toasted this motor and i am hoping like hell I caught it in time before I did any major damage but all while I was cussing on the side of the road . So he shows up and asks me what I want to do and I said lets dump some oil in it and see what's happens. So we dump about 3.5 quarts of oil in and start it up and motor didn't make a noise and oil pressure was good . it was like the whole thing had never happened . so I hop on the bike headed down the road all the to the house without problem. so me him stand out front drink a few beers and contemplate what the hell happened. Mind you me and him not really being savvy with this kinda thing. So a few days go by I get out in the garage and start poking around and try to figure out what the hell happened. and something for some reason told me to drain the primary and see how oil I get out of it. well sure as shit I get almost 4 quarts . now like I said I am really more piffler then a mechanic so now I am trying to figure out how the hell the oil got in there. I look through my manual for a 2 hrs and then I realized the sprocket shaft seal must have failed . so I tear open the primary and sure enough the seal was in backwards and not even seated . so now I am cussing the shit out of my friend ( who by the way is a bike mechanic for the city so I figured he would know what he was doing ) but whatever shit happens . so I replace the seal and rode about 160 miles yesterday and everything seemed to work good . the only problem I have now it the damm breather is really slobbering oil bad into the air cleaner at speeds above 60 and I had replaced the breather valve with one of those S&S reed type . I am lost as to why it keeps doing this and thoughts ?
Posted on Nov 10, 2009, 9:50 AM from IP address 216.54.27.211
My 1972 Ironhead case has a broken spot where the rear motor mount is bolted to the case. The case is broken off so that I only have a handul of threads at the bottom of the hole. My thinking is that I can use my torch and puddle some welding rod into the hole and then drill and retap the hole. The questions I have:
What are the cases made of? Alumimum was my guess but someone said they might be Magnesium?
What type of welding rod would you use?
Thanks, Mike
Posted on Nov 9, 2009, 6:42 PM from IP address 174.130.195.196
Would you attempt to do this on a case that still had the cam cover, transmission intact and heads intact? Or would you split the cases in order to do this repair?
Posted on Nov 10, 2009, 11:07 AM from IP address 12.4.235.132
But gotta get that sucker CLEAN! I wouldn't worry about it being intact, just make sure the repair area is super clean. Drill out the old threads to make sure they are gone and not holding any crud in.
Posted on Nov 10, 2009, 3:26 PM from IP address 97.82.203.97
The heat helps get the stuff out that won't let go cold.
Also,there was something on here about welding things that have been cleaned with brake fluid.Believe it was Brewdude who learned that the hard way.Makes fumes that will kill you.
Posted on Nov 12, 2009, 9:04 AM from IP address 72.150.143.143
I'm in the process of rebuilding my 1995 sportster's engine and I'm already looking ahead to the next money/time drain. I've always wanted to put a springer on her. I got really fired up again to do it after the latest issue. My question is, do I go with a DNA setup or does Paughco still make a springer front end that would work with my stock 95 frame? Shock or no shock? What kinda ride difference would I be looking at? How much over stock just to have a springer without a severe longbike. Wanna keep her close to what stock is with a lil more poking out up front. Thanks.
The world is your killing field when the fuel is in your fist. ~GTP
Posted on Nov 9, 2009, 12:37 PM from IP address 69.147.158.230
How long (miles) does it usually take
for a new top end to seat the rings and
stop oiling the plugs ? Someone told me
as much as 500 miles, this can't be true !
(can it ?) It was done with normal rings
and NOT moly ones.
Thanks
John
Posted on Nov 9, 2009, 11:45 AM from IP address 65.220.90.254
It's as much as how it was broke in as to how long to break in.
You want to put a load on the rings. You don't have to try to kill it but you want to accelerate strongly enough to put a load on the rings. You can also downshift when slowing down to put a load on the rings.
Posted on Nov 9, 2009, 12:17 PM from IP address 72.14.10.66
I used the "heat cycling" recommended by Axtell. If you log onto their site (axtellsales.com) then look through their downloadable PDF's for their instructions for shovelheads, it goes into detail on it. Had several people far more experienced with engines than I tell me this is absolutely the best way to break in a new motor. Good luck to you.
"There are three -and only three- kinds of people in this world: those who don't know they're damaged and blame others; those who realize they're damaged and blame others; and then people like you and me, who wear damage like comfortable pajamas."
Posted on Nov 9, 2009, 5:29 PM from IP address 68.26.169.57
My little shovel was finished & ready to kick in the Winter ('77 shovel very carefully rebuilt mostly stock, S&S lower end, KBs with Hastings, 0.030 over, S&S E) so I couldn't ride & used the heat cycle method to break it in in the garage. It has a few thousand miles on it now & runs like a watch, starts good, nice light black pipes, same on plugs. No oily anywhere. It's just a perfect little engine.
I clean the ends of my pipes every now & then with some gas on a rag. Then I go on a clean run with as little idling as possible then I just wipe my finger inside the pipes. I want to see a nice non-oily, very light black residue on my finger & see my fingerprints like when the cops do it (lazy man's plug-chop).
Old, worn down & still Jaded
Posted on Nov 10, 2009, 10:25 AM from IP address 68.1.167.13
angle of the cross hatch , and what rings has it got in it will determine how long it takes to break in .
The heat cycle method is the only way you get warranty here . And I have a stand to do the run in for all HD motors and am building one for all the old 750-4's we do . If we bore your cylinder only , you get a copy of how to do it in the box when we ship it back to you . Red
Posted on Nov 10, 2009, 8:57 PM from IP address 69.8.40.44
any of ya fellas happen to know a good led bulb thats a nice "plug and play" fit for a stock 1200 xlc headlight??oh..its a 2000 by the way should that help..??im guessin from the lowered forks it banged the dog $h!t out of my fillament and broke it..gotta love iowa roads!!anyways thanks in advance for the help!!
VINI VIDI VICI
Posted on Nov 9, 2009, 10:16 AM from IP address 97.125.227.59
these days are halogen bulbs. I'm not sure if Harley went that way too. Sealed beam is the old style where the bulb was the big glass globe, not the tiny glass tube that snaps into the big (now plastic in most cases) globe.
Is your headlight the same size as a sealed beam? Does it have the same style plug? If yes, then just swap it over. If not, then it's time to improvise....
by DUDE! I totally forgot my name (Login adirondackkid) Horsemen
I am getting rid of the front signals on my 94 fatboy and only running signals on the rear of the bike. I think I have to complete the circuit in order to get the rears to work. How do I remove the fronts and still make the rears work?
Thanks
Posted on Nov 9, 2009, 6:52 AM from IP address 71.204.226.43
Easiest is to cut and insulate the leads going to the front signals and install an electronic flasher in place of the stock bi-metal flasher. You can get one of those at any auto parts store. they look exaclty like a bi-metal flasher (small cylinder with 2 or 3 electrical lugs on one end).
I had a frame raked 15 yrs ago for my Ironhead. It had a stock lenght Kayaba 35mm narrow glide w/ a 16/21 wheel combo. I had it raked accordingly. I'm going a different direction with it and want something more performance oriented. I know, Ironhead, rigid frame and performance in the same paragraph...but seriously! I'd like to de-rake the frame as I'm putting in 2" under Kayaba forks w/ an 18/19 wheel combo. With the frame as is, it would drop the front 3" and raise the back 1".
I've cut plenty of cutting tools and a Millermatic 135 welder 110V. I'd like to perform the surgery myself. Can it be done without a jig? Is it advisable with my welder or should I take it someplace reputable?
Advice and critics welcome,
Trevor
Posted on Nov 9, 2009, 4:42 AM from IP address 217.163.18.2
I would make sure when welding the neck that you have it lined up and everything bolted so it wont move and let it cool off before moving it. and far as you measurements go for your wheels 16 to 18 and 21 to 19 you might not gain 1 inch or loose 2 because of the side wall thickness. that is one thing to keep in mind. and my opinion on welders 135 amp. is too small I know you'll have guys tell you thats enough but your the one going to be riding the bike 175 amp would be the min. I would trust.Hope this helps some SA
Posted on Nov 9, 2009, 8:26 AM from IP address 24.208.160.247
but a jig would be the best way to go. Without a jig, make sure you double, and triple check your measurements several times befre, during and after each tack weld. Tack weld it and bring it to someone with professional welding equipment and experience in welding motorcycle frames. You can tweak a frame by heating one side more than the other, and it is really easy to do that, especially if your welder isn't up to the task.
with the right amount of prep, bevel, and gusseting after the de-rake the 135 Miller will work just fine. Its more about the skills than the machine. I have owned a millermatic 135 and built trailer hitches, hardtailed frames and done many other things that were "text book" not within the parameters of that machine. If yours skills arent up to par than take it to someone.
Posted on Nov 10, 2009, 8:05 PM from IP address 69.152.162.23
My '81 Sporty is driving me nuts. I can't seem to get it to idle, no matter what I do. I can get it to
start with the choke on when it's cold, but it will only run for about 30 seconds and then it dies. If
I try to restart it, I can only do it with the choke on. This is even with the engine warmed up. I know
I'm getting spark, I checked that. I checked that I'm getting fuel from the tank to the carb, which by
the way is the stock Keihin. It's almost as if the fuel isn't getting through the carb. Could this be a
possibillity? I have to turn the idle screw out almost 3 turns just to get it to run al all. I read that
that means that my idle jet might be too small. Please, can someone give me some way out of this mess.
As usual, any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Ron
Posted on Nov 8, 2009, 11:21 PM from IP address 174.118.136.7
If it was running ok before, check to make sure you don't have an intake or head gasket leak. Start it and let it run, (with the choke on if necessary) and spray carb cleaner, starting fluid, WD 40, or something similar around the manifold junctions and head gasket junctions. If your idle speed changes you have a leak. Next thing to check is pull your plugs out and look at them. This will tell you what kind of shape your carb is in (actually, if you do this first, sometimes you can tell if you have an intake leak.) Both plugs should be a nice light brown. If one is considerably darker than the other, you have an intake or head gasket leak in that cylinder. My guess is that might be your problem. If you have the rubber band type (wide) intake seals, I have had nothing but problems with them and would guess that is where your problem is. I am guessing that if it is not an intake leak, then most likely your plugs will be a very light color. This indicates your mixture is lean and you need a larger intermediate jet. If it will only run with the choke on, you either have an intake leak or a lean running condition. Hope this helps, and good luck.
"There are three -and only three- kinds of people in this world: those who don't know they're damaged and blame others; those who realize they're damaged and blame others; and then people like you and me, who wear damage like comfortable pajamas."
Posted on Nov 9, 2009, 3:57 AM from IP address 174.144.210.158
i got a 72 ironhead,, battery shows 12 volts,,consistent,,,
when i hit the switch solenoid clicks,, starter engages but drags like the battery is dead,, i metered all the wires, everything is getting 12 volts,,
wires are new,, solenoid and starter are all new,, gonna try and jump start
the bike,, to see if more juice is what it needs,, somebody,anybody please help
Posted on Nov 8, 2009, 3:18 PM from IP address 174.101.85.1
When my starter started doing that, it was time for a new one. Basically the internal (& integrated on my starter) bushings wear out, when you put juice to it the strain cocks it slightly sideways, causing it to drag.
Check the ground, try a new battery but look at a starter rebuild.
jred
caution, inc.
I'm not a real mechanic but I play one in my garage.
Posted on Nov 8, 2009, 5:24 PM from IP address 75.66.248.20
A good battery is part of it and I don't know if battery position matters; I've heard not. As the starter issue goes, I had the same issues and most folks that have elctric start ironheads do to with old stock starters. I was working on a fine case of "sportster knee" before I antied up the cash for a good, modern starter. No fucking about with the selnoid or motor or cables or plunger guts and gears. It's a stand alone unit that is relaible time and time again. If the battery DOES get low, it won't suck in the selnoid and become a fire hazard. The other side to all that is a reliable charging sys. I had my generator rebuilt twice and never trusted it. The Cycle electric gen has been in service 4 yrs now and NO issues. And squaring it all out is a Dyna ign. Why? I got mine used at a swap meet in Germany back in 95' and it's still going. Ironheads always seem cheap on the surface, but like all old machines, if you want to RIDE it and not worry about which part will fuck you next, you'll have to invest in quality parts or stay close to home.
Good luck and keep us posted,
Trevor
Posted on Nov 9, 2009, 9:12 AM from IP address 217.163.18.2
. . . I'm not battery engineer, but I've experimented plenty running different 12V batteries in a wrap-around panhead oil tank make for a tall 6V battery.
Have found that AGM batteries (which seems to be the most common of the sealed batteries) will tolerate being run in non-upright positions, but not forever. I found that they deteriorated after a year or so. Of course other factors exist, but I was careful to have mine securely mounted and relatively isolated from vibration. My theory is that the electrolyte, while absorbed by the matting, migrated its way to the bottom surface leaving some of the plates less than covered. Just a theory though.
Gel batteries have not exhibited any deterioration on my bike. Mounted in the same way and seeing the same use, I've gotten up to three or four years out of one before it was time to replace.
Feel free to set me straight on this if anyone knows better. This is all just based on my observations over time.
Jason
Posted on Nov 9, 2009, 9:32 AM from IP address 72.92.117.120
You make a valid point. AGM batteries are great in Softails, Sportsters, Dynas and Baggers, all upright battery mounting. However Buells and Vrods go through alot, they have batteries mounted at 30 degree incline or so and it seems like they go dead faster and goto shit pre maturely. 2 years out of a Vrod or Buell battery is almost unheard of. What brand of gel battery have you had luck with?
Posted on Nov 10, 2009, 8:37 AM from IP address 96.24.85.99
And fucked with everything, then I pulled the entire unit out. The arm that the plunger hooks to was in full stroke back thus the gear was bound up on the clutch drum. I had the wrong cotter pin ,or no washer or somthing stupid like that (it has been 10 years so I really dont remember). Put her all back and she turned right over. Well as good as those turn over on electric start
Posted on Nov 9, 2009, 10:18 AM from IP address 72.43.63.28
I have a 72 ironhead too. 1st off I`m sure by now you and me and many others know these beasts are a $$$$ pit. We could get by cheaper by giving $$$$ to every wino we see.
If you have a meter hook it across your battery and check voltage of the batt. It should be about 12.5-13.5. Leave meter hooked up and push starter button. If voltage drops very much below 11volts chances you have a bad battery. Could probably also get it load tested at any of the chain auto stores.
I have had constant troubles with electrics and start system. I got a cycle electrics generator and cured that problem. Had trouble with mechanical starter relay, put a late model on which is encased in plastic. A good complete rebuild of the starter by a local auto electric rebuilder helped that. Have got a solid state regulator to go on the next time volt reg bites the dust.
Starter drag, On mine the timeing is a very touchy thing. Set a close as possible. The dyna "S" made a world of difference too.
Elevators smell like ass to midgets
Posted on Nov 9, 2009, 12:44 PM from IP address 208.102.124.197
in the red honda chopper build up they did not too long ago Ithink they said they used jb weld and planned on powdercoating , maybe be mistaken I`ll see if I can find that issue. wire brush or a stripping wheel on a grinder works great!
I`d rather fix it up than fix it
Posted on Nov 8, 2009, 7:02 PM from IP address 24.89.40.105
I have numerous spots on my frame that were smoothed out with JB weld. You don't want to put it super thick or have a large area of it, but for filling in small nicks or smoothing welds it works great.
"Rained out in my mind"
Posted on Nov 8, 2009, 11:13 PM from IP address 64.237.77.18
I was just outside tring to start my sporty with a jump pack I noticed the cam side of the engine cases flexing at the rear when I pushed the starter button. I also noticed a broken ear on the primary side case. With out seeing my cases do you think my case are junk? If so where can I get new replacements? If this is a silly question I'm sorry. I'm kind of new to the whole harley engine thing.
P.S. I have been having clutch problems also and it is electric start only if that makes a difference. The clutch will go from dragging to slipping with out changing the adjustment.
It's always better to be a smart ass than a dumb ass
Posted on Nov 8, 2009, 11:58 AM from IP address 98.67.177.236
then I would say you probably have a crack in the case. The clutch problem may ar may not be related. Best option is if it isn't cracked too bad (and since you are riding it, I am guessing it probably isn't) it can be welded. Unfortunately, replacement ironhead cases are not available from any sources that I have heard of currently. Biggest thing is, start stripping it down and look for the problem NOW while it is still fixable and you don't have to try to find a good set of ironhead cases because yours blew apart. Get a service manual (if you don't have one already), get a friend with more experience if you are not comfortable doing it yourself (I don't know about your friends, but mine if I need a hand, I can usually convince them to help out by telling them there's a cold 12 pack waiting) and start tearing it down. Good luck.
"There are three -and only three- kinds of people in this world: those who don't know they're damaged and blame others; those who realize they're damaged and blame others; and then people like you and me, who wear damage like comfortable pajamas."
Posted on Nov 8, 2009, 12:55 PM from IP address 72.57.215.25
cam cover ? Check the screws for tight on the cover , If any of it is flexing it should be leaking like mad . Do you have a leak ? Check the simple things 1st. Red
Posted on Nov 9, 2009, 9:23 PM from IP address 69.8.40.44
I was on the primary side when I noticed the movement on top of the rear part of the cam side case when the starter is engaged. And also noticed a broken bolt hole on the primary side case near where the movemet is. I posted hopeing I was over reacting but the more I think about all the clutch and starter troubles I been having it makes sense. Thanks for the responce.
PS Its an ironhead they always are leeking oil! lol
It's always better to be a smart ass than a dumb ass
Posted on Nov 10, 2009, 5:41 AM from IP address 98.67.177.236
have had a howling noise this summer,, (that i couldnt find) pulled the generator off,, shouldnt you be able to spin it with your hand??? This thing is tightan cant spin it by hand??? Just wondering Thanks
Posted on Nov 8, 2009, 11:34 AM from IP address 71.169.188.205
If its Harley type its real simular to old U.S. autos. If you don't have an old enough manual you can get a lot of tips from an old car manual for checking and testing.
Posted on Nov 8, 2009, 10:06 PM from IP address 74.227.112.180
I've awnsered many posts about replacing the chincy wafer throwougt bearing oil slinger with the old liberty bell style.
The liberty bell style has always worked for me, and the wafer bearing style has left me on the side of the road, forcing me to change to the liberty bell with my ass in the gravel.
I've got a hydraulic 4 speed kicker cover and the instructions call for the oil slinger to be left off. Understandable due to the size of the piston, there wouldn't be much room.
Question is: Is the oil slinger needed in a normal 4 speed kicker application? Not talking Hydraulic here. Reason I ask is, I've got another 4 speed I'm working on right now, the liberty bell won't fit in the kicker cover, and I've got a drawer full of the wafer style setups and pushrods.
I'm thinking I could weld a heavy washer onto the pushrod sandwiched between the wafer bearings.
How much oil slinging gets done with the liberty bell anyway?
Thanks
Sixball
Posted on Nov 8, 2009, 11:24 AM from IP address 205.188.117.71
but it sounds like a really good idea. I have had nothing but bad luck with the later "oil slinger" throwout bearings as well. Another thing you might think about is if there is enough clearance, how about welding a slightly thinner washer on and putting it behind the oil slinger? From my experience the main way they fail is by the rod pushing through the oil slinger, and this would eliminate that problem since the pressure would be on the washer, and not just on the two flats that take all the pressure otherwise. If you decide to take this route, post some pics on here and let us know how it works out. Sounds like the best idea I've heard for a while, though.
"There are three -and only three- kinds of people in this world: those who don't know they're damaged and blame others; those who realize they're damaged and blame others; and then people like you and me, who wear damage like comfortable pajamas."
Posted on Nov 8, 2009, 1:03 PM from IP address 72.57.215.25
is Bakers kicker covers. They are built to accept the old style throwout bearing.
"There are three -and only three- kinds of people in this world: those who don't know they're damaged and blame others; those who realize they're damaged and blame others; and then people like you and me, who wear damage like comfortable pajamas."
Posted on Nov 9, 2009, 4:01 AM from IP address 174.144.210.158
I've always just run them without looking too close but can anyone tell me why the holes on a vented rotor are not chamfered?
Seems like the holes with raw edges would accelerate pad wear. Just wondering. My son is an apprentice machinist and is trying to tell me they should be chamfered but he doesn't have much more knowledge about brake design than I do.
A 8 A 8 A
Posted on Nov 8, 2009, 11:05 AM from IP address 68.0.134.168
If you look at the patern of holes as it sweeps through the pad surface they will be ofset so they cover most if not all of the pad surface as they go by. Different holes go past a different pad area and the combination of holes hit the whole brake pad. This is one reason I was told that the brake rotors have holes in them. If they were chamfered they would be less effective at keeping the pad surface flat.
Posted on Nov 8, 2009, 9:56 PM from IP address 96.24.85.99
do carry off the dust but that also happens on a non drilled rotor.
The don't need to be chamfered due to the very flat sufaces really have no lifted edge to cut the pad.
In some racing applications you will see drilled and grooved rotors. these are for heat and dust bleed.
Posted on Nov 9, 2009, 7:50 AM from IP address 75.239.122.219
...the non-chamfered design allows for more friction and thus, better stopping power? Just a guess. However, if the if the holes were chamfered, would the effectiveness decrease (or increase?) as the rotors wear down since the chamfer itself is changing slightly with wear? Oh hell, I need another cup of coffee.
.
.
Posted on Nov 9, 2009, 10:39 AM from IP address 24.56.45.29
. . . razor blades made out of hard rubber/plastic in the shape of normal single-edge blades.
They work great and don't remove any material.
I soak 'em with gasket remover spray first than scrape at them with the plastic blades. Repeat with the spray 'til they're gone. Really tough spots get the brass toothbrush treatment while soaked in gasket remover.
Jason
Posted on Nov 9, 2009, 9:36 AM from IP address 72.92.117.120
it's a lot easier to clean up the threads on a nut or a stud than to take out a broken bolt, or to timesert the heads. The stud stays in the head and saves you a lot of headaches in the future.
"There are three -and only three- kinds of people in this world: those who don't know they're damaged and blame others; those who realize they're damaged and blame others; and then people like you and me, who wear damage like comfortable pajamas."
Posted on Nov 8, 2009, 2:52 AM from IP address 70.6.127.209
One reason I didn't say any thing about a stud was because I didn't know if you'd be able to put on the header with a stud the way both pipes are welded to gather.
Posted on Nov 8, 2009, 10:13 PM from IP address 74.227.112.180
can anybody tell me....when installing the tamer do i torque the clutch hub nut to spec before taking my measurement ? this is not the ram jet tamer if that makes a difference. it doesn't say to do so in the instructions, but sometimes tolerances change after they're torqued down. just wanna do it right the first time.
Posted on Nov 7, 2009, 9:22 PM from IP address 69.12.183.149
to start with you need to use an S&S pump made for the generator engines.
the 67 and older oem iron or 68-72 aluminum oem pump will not work for this conversion.
an oem or other aftermarket 73 and later type pump wont work either so don't try it.
you will also need an end oiling pinion shaft from a 73 to 80 or a 58 to 80 S&S pinion shaft.
the S&S replacement shaft is drilled both ways and they provide a brass plug and also a drilled brass plug for use as needed to fit in the cam cover end of the shaft. the drilled plug is used for the end oilers...
a drill guide helps make it a no brainer but is not needed if you use some care locating and drilling the the one and only hole.
the hole in the case that needs drilling is here...
the drill guide makes it easy. drill only deep enough to break into the passage. i'm guessing it's about a 1/4" to where that red spray can straw is poked in from the cam cover gasket surface. don't drill to deep...
after the hole is drilled from the pump surface you need to tap a hole for a set screw. the idea is to have the set screw end up just deeper than the hole you drilled from the pump surface. not tapped deep enough and you will block the rod oiling passage. tapped to deep and you will block the top end and tappet pressure. sorry for the poor pic here but the set screw on tha allen wrench is close to the location it needs to be...
once the drilling and tapping is done on the case and the set screw is in you will have a split oiling system. main or full pump pressure will feed into the passage from the pump surface and then travel through the tappet screen and then on to the top end oiling fitting and tappets...
the passage you drilled and inserted the set screw into will be the new by-pass oiling system that will feed the pinion shaft...
the routing is different than a 73 and later big twin but the effect is the same.
you will need to replace the cam cover pinion bushing now with a 73 and later bushing. it has a flat cut into the outer diameter so oil will pass from the cam cover around the bushing and then through the end into the pinion shaft... end oiling...
you will also have to plug a pressure blead hole in the cam cover. the hole leads deep into the pinion bushing bore. a 8/32X1/8" set screw works well for that. just tap the hole deep enough to hold the set screw without passing all the way through to the bushing bore. it could also be welded closed if you want. either way the hole needs to be plugged or all oil that should be going to the rod rollers will just leak back into the gear case area...
'stupid signature words go here'
Posted on Nov 7, 2009, 8:20 PM from IP address 75.218.21.126
...Is there any downside to doing this? It looks like a neat trick, but can you talk a little bit about the 'necessity factor' for us less-seasoned engine tinker-ers?
.
.
Posted on Nov 8, 2009, 8:02 AM from IP address 24.56.45.29
first is the hydraulic tappets and rockers get a more steady pressure. we all know the 54 through 84 oem hydraulic tappets can use all the help they can get. as a side oiler engine wears the pinion bushing to shaft clearance larger, oil pressure is lost through that extra clearance and you loose oil to the tappets and top end. rockers wear faster and the engine will run hotter as pressure is lost. the oil that drains from the top end also lubes and cools the pistons, rings, wrist pins and on and on... as it drains into and slings around inside the crankcase. rod rollers also get a more steady flow of oil once converted without a pressure loss in the tappets and rockers even when the engine has some wear.
a side oiler engine will lube it's self fine long as everything fits and there is no wear.
an end oiler engine will do it longer, even as things wear.
end oiling was a factory upgrade in 73. all later shovels and every evo built uses the same basic design.
i forgot to say it above in the first post. this engine is a 66 shovel and will also get the later 6-24 pump drive and driven gears. that's upgraded from the 5-25 that all 72 and older engines used. that change speeds up the pump for better pressure and also helps boost return oil flow back to the tank.
'stupid signature words go here'
Posted on Nov 8, 2009, 9:01 AM from IP address 75.219.22.149
but chips from drilling tends to screw it up. doing that job is easy to know when to stop. you can feel, hear and see it soon as the bit breaks into the passage.
other wise, just watch for when their jaw drops and eyes open real wide
'stupid signature words go here'
Posted on Nov 8, 2009, 7:01 PM from IP address 70.210.69.9
I put a cv carb on my 62 sporty and am trying to get it adjusted correctly I currently have a 48 pilot jet and the mixture screw roughly 3 1/4 turns out. it is still popping through the carb however it does start on the 2 or third kick now. I picked up a 50 pilot jet today but have not installed it yet. last night I was kicking it over and forgot to turn the fuel on. it would fire and turn over a couple of times, once I turned the gas on fired right up. Im thinking the float is not adjusted properly and this may be part of my problem am I on the right track here? would the timing to retarded make it pop through the carb as well? How do I go about properly adjusting the float My manual does not cover this carb.
Posted on Nov 7, 2009, 6:46 PM from IP address 98.203.204.16
yer pretty good on the jet, either a 48 or 50 should do it. I would check for air leaks, at the o-rings, manifold to carb etc.,did you plug off the VOES tap? also be sure the low speed air screw has all the parts in place (o-ring, washer and spring)make sure all passages are clear also. sure sounds like a leak to me. Stick
Posted on Nov 8, 2009, 8:55 AM from IP address 98.70.55.153
lead me to think that may be the issue. On the in-board side of the top of the carb is a little brass nipple for a vacuum line, late model bikes used it for timing advance on elec. ignitions, on yours it needs to be plugged. Just a little vacuum plug from a auto store will do it. With it open you have a major vac. leak and would pop as you describe. number 7 in pic shows the hose going to the nipple. Stick
Posted on Nov 8, 2009, 11:57 AM from IP address 98.70.129.32
thanks, yes it is plugged I purchased new O rings and gaskets. I also ordered an
ezjust mixture screw as with the magneto there is very little room to adjust the mixture screw. so heres what I am thinking once I get the ezjust screw remove the carb and manifold replace the O rings with new, install new gaskets replace the 48 pilot jet with a 50 and start tuning over sound right? oh and how do I properly set the float level?
Posted on Nov 8, 2009, 3:58 PM from IP address 98.203.204.16
I run a 50/190 on my 80 cubic inch shovel. I would think that would be too much for your sporty. The popping through the carb is an indication of a lean condition. I would first check that you don't have any vacuum leaks. That is the most common problem and the easiest to fix. Mine still pops occasionally when cold but goes away when warm. Also the mixture screw out 3+ turns sounds like too much to me also. Mine is only 2 out.
Posted on Nov 8, 2009, 6:01 PM from IP address 216.183.196.141
before I forget the 48 pilot is big for your sporty. I've tried to scan the page in my service manual on setting the float but I can't get it to work. So here it is by word. I've done this several times ain't nuthin to it. Take the carb in your left hand with the bore side that faces the intake facing down, with the float on the right so the float hinge is at the top. Tilt the carb 15-20 degrees to the left (raising the float side). When measuring don't push down on the float. Take a dial caliper for in. measurement or a machinist rule on the metric side (easier) and measure from the base of the carb (where the float bowl gasket would touch) to the bottom of the float opposite where the hinge is (widest point. It should measure 0.413-0.453 in. or 10.49-11.51mm.(thats why I measure with mm).If you need to adjust the float notice on the carb body by the float tab is an arrow. This is the direction the float pin must be removed (the tabs are tapered). Brace the float tab on the far side against the vice or something that won't move. Take a small punch and hammer and tap the float pin in the direction of the arrow. BE SURE to brace the far side tab or it will break off and the carb will be junk....don't ask me how I know this.Reinstall the float pin opposite the arrow...Three turns on the adjustment will be rich but ok to start the engine turn it down from there. I'd like to see this ez adjust needle you have........good luck
********
riding and wrenching on Milwaukee vibrators since 1971
Posted on Nov 9, 2009, 9:50 PM from IP address 69.152.88.251
thanks for the detailed info here is a link to the adjusterhttp://www.harley-performance.com/ez-just.html the problem I have it there is very little room between the top of my mag and the adjusting screw. havent received it yet but when it arrives I will be removing the carb yet one more time and putting new seals on the manifold and new gaskets as well. thanks again
Posted on Nov 9, 2009, 11:04 PM from IP address 98.203.204.16
hey there lunatic you had mentioned in a previous response that you might be able to take a look at my xs650 carbs well i was finally able to go pick up my xs on wednesday and im hopefully gettin ready to tear into it here pretty soon if i can catch a minute to breath, you know how that goes. anyway i was wondering what you would do to the carbs, how much it would be, and about how long it would take. my e-mail is RLuker@flagler.edu if you want to shoot me an e-mail or just reply on the forum either way is fine with me. thanks from someone trying to learn what the hell he is doing.
Rusty
Posted on Nov 7, 2009, 5:22 PM from IP address 74.167.167.85
Ok so I'm starting to get the cash together for the conversion. The question is whats the difference between NHRS kit and one I can put together myself for 200 less with the wiseco pistons and new jugs? Will I notice the performance difference? Is it all about quality? Waste of cash? I keep on reading abut NHRS on the lxforum.net but they are also a sponsor so I would like an outside opinion.
Posted on Nov 7, 2009, 12:24 PM from IP address 24.163.40.236
We did a conversion using a cylinder/Wiseco piston kit on my neice's 01 XL. Claimed a bit higher compression ratio, and with the wiseco pistons, no modification is needed to the combustion chamber of the 883 head. Some of the other 1200 kits required you to do mods to the head.
It's been in there for 2 seasons (albeit short seasons up here on the Canadian prairies) with out any problems, and she is a fairly aggressive rider.
Posted on Nov 7, 2009, 1:21 PM from IP address 206.45.203.211
I guess I should have said I will be keeping the stock heads and cams till the cash comes around. Good to hear it can stand up to the aggressive riding, I'm sure there are times when the bike wants to die after my trips but she still keeps going.
Posted on Nov 7, 2009, 4:03 PM from IP address 24.163.40.236
conversion It's gonna get mo ugly before it gets better
Still wondering whether to run a transmission or not...Being the definition of a big inch bar-hopping twin cam killer....
Tony Mohr
HotRod Harleys
208 301 0438
Posted on Nov 8, 2009, 8:15 PM from IP address 204.52.246.101
Kinda a follow up to my post below about the damage to the crankcase breather hole. I get the basics of the big twin motor oil flow, but never have been sure what the the two oil passages in the breather cavity are for.
Thanks
John
Posted on Nov 7, 2009, 12:03 PM from IP address 76.97.161.152
the passage close to the gear end that goes to the oil pump surface is for primary oiling supply. crankcase pressure blows oil through the pump and then through a hose and fitting into the primary. it then drips oil onto the primary chain. not all shovels have that hole...
the angled hole that leads down to the passage behind the oil pump is primary oil return. any pan or shovel engine 65 and later has that angled hole. piston up stroke creates a vaccuum through the gear window while the case window is closed. it draws the oil from the lower fitting port below the clutch area in an aluminum primary case. it will also draw all the other cluch and chian wear grunge into the breather gear... that's most often how the breather bore is damaged... well, plastic breathers eat the bore too.
deep in the breather bore at close to the bottom is a small hole that leads down into the oil air mist trap area... that small boxy looking spot at the lower left of the cam case area. on piston up stroke the breather gear window is closed, crankcase vaccuum draws oil up that passage into the breather gear. that is the last chance for oil to be drawn from the air before it's blown from the case...
'stupid signature words go here'
Posted on Nov 7, 2009, 7:38 PM from IP address 75.218.21.126
That angled hole at the rear of the breather hole. I thought it was for the case vent.
It seems to go through to the threaded hole for the crank vent fitting.
That's the one that blows all the oil out onto the ground when there is too much in the crank.
There is a supply from the flywheel scraper to the breather cavity. Excess oil is scraped off the flywheel and delivered to that cavity and blown out the vent.
I am not contradicting you, since you know way more than me about this, just wondering if I am right here.
It ain't a chopper if you ain't chopped it!
Posted on Nov 10, 2009, 11:20 AM from IP address 208.118.24.85
I'm not at all familiar with magneto's, so I don't know if I'm using the right terminology. How long should a rebuilt magneto last, before it needs recharged?
Posted on Nov 7, 2009, 9:07 AM from IP address 174.59.105.30
hi guys, i wanna run copper on my IH. i looked at 3/8" but it looked too big. what size are you guys running? is 1/4 too small? thanks for the help, john
Posted on Nov 7, 2009, 7:46 AM from IP address 65.27.71.208
Hi, This is my 1st american build I'm working on.
Anyhow I would like to run 150 or 160 X 16, same size/width front and rear.
Disk brake, Spoked or Mags..
My question is did any bikes come factory with a set up I could
possibly use?
Anyone ever ran two rear Mags? possible?
If not where could I find something suitable for my needs?
Thanks
Posted on Nov 6, 2009, 6:21 PM from IP address 72.79.179.9
I hear ya, I seem to be finding alot of stock set ups with a slimmer front tire than the rear.
Will I be able to pop 150's on both rims?
Please bear with me here...this is my 1st dive into American motorcycles...
Anyone have a good vendor for those 'fat spoke" rims?
Posted on Nov 6, 2009, 7:08 PM from IP address 72.79.179.9
If I understan what you are asking is did any factory bikes use 16" rims front and back and were the rims the same width. Does that sum up your question? If that is your ? then the answer is yes factory fl's were set up that way, 16x3.00 rims front and back, a factory or factory width springer fork will accomodate this width of wheel tire combo, Narrow glide forks and narrow width springers will not. Does that help?
Posted on Nov 8, 2009, 6:27 PM from IP address 98.215.51.244
friend has a 95 Dresser. It has a one year only Fuel Injection system.
This is a 95 Evo and he wants to go to the CV carb.
Do we need a whole new harness?
Anybody ever do this?
It ain't a chopper if you ain't chopped it!
Posted on Nov 6, 2009, 1:36 PM from IP address 208.118.24.85
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