Any one do that successfully? Such as Rustoleum in the pint cans, etc. I did some airbrushing in the seventies, and have some familiarity with thinning paint for air guns, etc. I just got a little touch-up gun and plan to paint me tank and fenders on Chop Sooooweeee. I did buy the gun from the local automotive finishes supply house, they can custom mix colors down to 8 ounces, which would be my choice if not too expensive (unemployed). Any helpful advice would be appreciated, thanks.
Here's a tank that I did with aerosol cans about 10 years ago.
"Life Is Short, Make It Enjoyable"
Posted on Dec 11, 2009, 1:45 PM from IP address 166.203.15.58
Can pipes be powder coated? Looking to fab up some new ones, have had luck with vht paint but tired of doing it every year or so. Looking for a more permanent route.
YOU ARE FREE BECAUSE OF THEE
Posted on Dec 11, 2009, 1:21 PM from IP address 74.37.221.72
said they have some good hi-temp powders now, but he wasn't comfortable enough to recommend using one on exhaust last time I had stuff done (last spring). I've done ceramicoat 3 times and dig the results, but it's not cheap.
Picked up a used tach yesterday. It's a Drag Specialties 2 1/2 inch with two cables coming out the back. One cable has red-green-black-blue wires inside and the other has red-green-black. Both cables connect to a small box that looks to be handlebar mounted with a red pushbutton on it. Any idea what this setup is?
Posted on Dec 11, 2009, 10:14 AM from IP address 99.12.79.104
the little control box is for changing the color of the back light in the tach - its a fucking dumb thing to add to a tach but I guess its come kind of sales gimmick - get the back light color you want and just leave it
Posted on Dec 11, 2009, 2:11 PM from IP address 150.176.96.3
you can find these tachs on eaby - just look them up and they will have a description of the tach - any numbers and a short explanation of what the little red button is for - changing colors for the back lighting - "oh how cool"
Posted on Dec 11, 2009, 2:14 PM from IP address 150.176.96.3
I have an 84 shovel its getting no spark when turning over but when you turn the switch to the on position the spark plug will fire then and only then. ran fine a year ago whats up with that bad switch or what I hate electrical most time consuming thing there is on a bike any help will be greatly app. thanks SA
Posted on Dec 11, 2009, 9:48 AM from IP address 24.208.160.247
Like on my 84 EVO. There is a built in delay for when you "push the button and when the module will give spark.
This circut can go bad and the rest of the module can be OK.
In my case the bike would sometimes start when you "released" the started button. When you release the button the circut will give spark. I could get the bike started withy a few tries. I replace the module and all is OK.
I don't know if the shovels used the same system as the EVO's
It it is the module you will have to buy a install kit for the new module.
The old ones are hard wired and the new ones are plug in.
Good luck
Posted on Dec 11, 2009, 10:39 AM from IP address 75.225.118.184
Hi, newbie here. Just got a 77 lowrider. Son and I are starting to chop it.I wanted to pull the tranny out in one piece. was told that would be a good idea.The whole thing is loose,except right at the lower primary. Were the clutch is. I don't see or feel a bolt but there has to be one some were.I'm building off of the floor like alot of guys, so it is a little hard to get my fat head under there.Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Greg
Posted on Dec 10, 2009, 7:44 PM from IP address 76.97.116.84
The only thing left on the frame is the tranny and motor.Chain is off, wires are all discoed. I can lift up on the tranny but something I can not see witch seems to be on or near rear of clutch basket. I just can not seem to see or feel anything. Thanks greg
Posted on Dec 10, 2009, 8:56 PM from IP address 76.97.116.84
That the trans. mount plate HAS TO come off with the trans. as one unit. You cannot remove trans without the plate attached to the trans. Hope this helps, Steve.
Posted on Dec 10, 2009, 9:06 PM from IP address 75.219.106.55
I plan on running an Evo single-cyl. front brake only with the setup. Now, I need a front axle. There are two, I figure, to chose from--the 80-83 FXWG type and the 84-99 FXST type. What should I do?
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You don't like my bike? YOU aren't supposed to like my bike!
Posted on Dec 10, 2009, 10:40 AM from IP address 165.24.253.150
which were not that affective, I understand--a different mount than the single-pot Evo type, I'm pretty sure. Can't think of too much that wouldn't be taken care of by spacing.
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You don't like my bike? YOU aren't supposed to like my bike!
Posted on Dec 10, 2009, 4:09 PM from IP address 165.24.253.150
i'm planning on getting rid of the primary cover on my HD its a 74 flh and i'm just wondering how long will the wet clutches last running open i do plan on getting a dry clutch but i've been wondering about this for a while
Posted on Dec 10, 2009, 12:30 AM from IP address 75.92.15.3
have to replace the starter clutch in my evo starter (89 to 93 primary) stock starter (Ultima) any thing I should know before I start this - any special tools needed - any advice that I should know before starting the job - never replaced one before so any advice is helpful - anything I whould watch out for - do's or don'ts - thanks for any advice
Posted on Dec 9, 2009, 3:34 PM from IP address 75.145.62.105
don't loose it and make sure to transfer it to the new part if you get the kit that includes a new shaft (hd kits have the new shaft and clutch) The bb is behind the long spring that goes into the starter solenoid.
Posted on Dec 10, 2009, 12:09 AM from IP address 96.24.85.99
they have a calculator for figuring out rpm and speed for various gearing options. Without knowing exactly what you are looking for, that should give you the best idea.
"There are three -and only three- kinds of people in this world: those who don't know they're damaged and blame others; those who realize they're damaged and blame others; and then people like you and me, who wear damage like comfortable pajamas."
Posted on Dec 9, 2009, 1:31 PM from IP address 68.26.99.178
and only 400 pound bike, but my lard ass is 250. Mine will cruise at 75 or so pretty comfortably, Gets buzzy at 80. Will pull 110 and still climbing when I let off. Motor is sporty 1200 bottom and Buell top.
Posted on Dec 10, 2009, 2:32 PM from IP address 65.6.150.237
No one mentioned the 23T sprocket I keep seeing so many of.
When installing it do you just use the same spacer that was behind the belt sprocket/pulley?
I'm ignorant about this late model stuff,but its fun messin' with it. Kinda like getting some strange....
Posted on Dec 11, 2009, 10:42 AM from IP address 74.227.99.228
This is my first post here, but i read the tech board all the time. I think one of you can help me, i got some used fatbob tanks with some sealer in them, and its peeling off in the left tank. Doe's anyone here know how to get that stuff out? Thanks
Posted on Dec 9, 2009, 2:48 AM from IP address 98.30.76.119
do a search for tank sealer, and you should have several posts come up with techniques to get rid of it. I haven't had to deal with it myself, but I do remember reading numerous posts on here about it.
"There are three -and only three- kinds of people in this world: those who don't know they're damaged and blame others; those who realize they're damaged and blame others; and then people like you and me, who wear damage like comfortable pajamas."
Posted on Dec 9, 2009, 6:02 AM from IP address 68.26.82.119
fish tank gravel or nuts and bolts. Plug all holes except the gas cap (put your hand over that, in a solvent-proof glove) and shake, shake, shake....... Repeat as necessary (it may take awhile). Rinse with clear acetone, then gas (make sure all of your "cleaning agents" are removed). Check for leaks. If none, fill up and go...... If you choose to re-line, post back.
Dont try to burn it out!
I tried to do that in my powdercoating oven in the shop and about killed myself with the fumes. Had to let it air out for a couple hours afterwards even with the overhead door open.
That is some toxic shit!
Posted on Dec 11, 2009, 5:20 PM from IP address 69.205.137.206
Want to put a set of '02 Fatboy wheels and brakes on my 76 FLH to replace the old wheels and the rotten banana's
The front wheel and brake is no prob as I'm changing the front end, its the rear wheel swap Im concerned about.
The rear brake should be fairly easy to set-up and I know I'll have to get the FLH sprocket hole enlarged to mount it on the 02 Fatboy wheel but other than that, does anyone know if the wheel will be centered in the swingarm and have the sprocket line up??
Figure'd I would ask for help just in case I rip it all apart only to find out I cant do it unless I get a bunch of machine shop work done. I'm sure someone out there has figured this out already and hopefully wont mind sharing the info.
Thanks!!
Posted on Dec 9, 2009, 1:51 AM from IP address 69.159.218.203
sprocket lining up, worst case you may have to change, or make your own wheel spacers. Not real difficult or time consuming. For the sprocket, if it does not line up perfectly, you can get shims to space the pulley/ sprocket from the wheel in different widths. My big concern would be that they changed to the sealed type wheel bearings for the 02, and you want to make sure that the axles are the same diameter. As long as the axles are the same diameter, you should be able to easily make it work.
"There are three -and only three- kinds of people in this world: those who don't know they're damaged and blame others; those who realize they're damaged and blame others; and then people like you and me, who wear damage like comfortable pajamas."
Posted on Dec 9, 2009, 6:09 AM from IP address 68.26.82.119
And other than enlarging the rotor,it was fairly painless. I did make new wheel spacers,because I didn't want to dick around, trying to find something that would work. Easy swap..good luck!
Posted on Dec 9, 2009, 2:25 PM from IP address 74.65.64.47
Pulled apart the Joe Hunt mag I'm putting on the Shovel, it didn't feel smooth when I turned it by hand. Bearings were shot, decided to replace them. Pulled the points plate off and the inner race is stuck to the rotor. Is this supposed to be pressed on, or should the bearing slip on to the rotor? And how the hell do I get this thing off? I put the rotor in a soft-jawed vice and was able to turn the race with a pair of vise-grips, but that's all it does is turn, I have no good way to pull it. Suggestions??
[IMG][/IMG]
Posted on Dec 8, 2009, 5:03 PM from IP address 71.74.224.231
do you have any type of press or a buddy that has one you could weld tabs on the race block it up and press the rest of the mag off or out of the race thats what I would do. But I do have all the equipment in my shop hope this helps SA
Posted on Dec 8, 2009, 6:00 PM from IP address 24.208.160.247
Didn't think about welding, but thought about putting a little heat on the race to expand it, have had to do stuff like that to get them off of spent wheel bearings on cars. Dunno if any kind of heat would mess up the rotor though, and those things ain't cheap...
Posted on Dec 8, 2009, 7:23 PM from IP address 71.74.224.231
you could wrap the rotor in a damp rag with some ice in it. I would tig weld if you have the machine it wont take much to weld thats probably only .002 press fit if that much SA
Posted on Dec 8, 2009, 11:11 PM from IP address 24.208.160.247
Running a bead along the race with a TIG welder, the heat should expand the race and it should slide right off.
TIG welding, the heat will be concentrated at the weld, no need to worry about damage.
If this fails, a Dremel tool with a cut off wheel, will split the side fairly easily.
if you weld around a race it will SHRINK. that's a fun way to remove neck, wheel, and any other race that's pressed into a bore. they shrink.
don't whack it with a hammer either, screws with the magnets.
careful work with a whiz wheel carving the race will heat it as it gets thin where your carving. once it's thin and warming up it should slide off.
some of the older guys here may have seen bearing race removal from a shaft with a carbon ark torch. it works very fast but good look finding one these days.
'stupid signature words go here'
Posted on Dec 9, 2009, 1:00 AM from IP address 70.210.35.245
a small piece of metal to the race. Put your rotor in a vice, with it able to spin on the shaft you're half way there now. When you tack that piece of metal to the race you will expand the race enough for it to slide off and that little piece of metal will give you something to "peck" on to git it moving. Try to move fast before the heat goes to the shaft and swells it up too. When you put the bearing back on, "warm" the inner race with a propane torch or a welding tip on an oxy/acet. Put the rotor in the vice, make sure it's cool, stand the bearing on edge and "warm" the inside race to about 150 degrees. It should just drop on to the shaft. When it cools and shrinks, it should be tight. You don't want to over heat the bearing and cook the grease out of it. Good luck.
Posted on Dec 9, 2009, 12:08 PM from IP address 70.245.178.119
Does anyone have or know of a supplier for a special size air filter element? I need a round element, 3 1/16 od x 2 1/4 id x 1 7/8 tall. I could even use a part no. that would match that size. I've tried to google for a supplier and all the parts stores around here are helpless without a part no.
*If you're not living on the edge, you're just taking up space*
Posted on Dec 8, 2009, 1:46 PM from IP address 155.130.107.41
I need an offset back sprocket. The sprocket looks like it is offset to the tranny sprocket by the width of the sprocket, appx. 1/4". Not sure what degree offset i need.
Thanks.
Posted on Dec 8, 2009, 1:03 PM from IP address 24.74.119.45
on some models that is about that width. Just a small round piece that goes between the wheel and the sprocket. Might be what you need. They also sell them to compensate for transmission offsets, I think.
"There are three -and only three- kinds of people in this world: those who don't know they're damaged and blame others; those who realize they're damaged and blame others; and then people like you and me, who wear damage like comfortable pajamas."
Posted on Dec 8, 2009, 1:32 PM from IP address 68.26.247.117
I see what u are talking about now. I found a 1/4" offset spacer, but it fits a 84 to 99 model. It has the 2" center just don't know if the bolt hole pattern is the same.
Posted on Dec 8, 2009, 5:29 PM from IP address 24.74.119.45
and they have the units I was talking about, the stock type steel spacer shims. They are listed in five different widths; .045", .200", .250", and .300" and are listed as fitting 76- 99 models. Part #'s are as follows: .045" (oem # 41814-76) drag #DS-325450, .200" (oem # 40932-81) drag # DS-199458, .250 (no oem # listed) Drag # 199459, .300" (no oem # listed) Drag # DS-199464. For an offset of approximately 1/4" as you mentioned you are looking for. These #'s are from the 2005 Drag Specialties catalog. Hope this helps.
"There are three -and only three- kinds of people in this world: those who don't know they're damaged and blame others; those who realize they're damaged and blame others; and then people like you and me, who wear damage like comfortable pajamas."
Posted on Dec 8, 2009, 10:03 PM from IP address 72.57.3.221
I'm looking at possibly buying a used ex-police bike. Iwas told that I should avoid these things because of
the fact that they use special tires and wheels. Apparently, if I was to put a normal tire on the bike without
changing the wheels too, the shop doing it could lose their license. I was told this has something to do with
some legal crap from Harley. Is this true, or is this just some kind of rumour? These bikes seem to be a real
good deal. Anybody ever heard this? Ron
Posted on Dec 8, 2009, 11:18 AM from IP address 174.118.136.7
The tires are so-called 'run flats' because they have a very thick/stiff sidewall so they can withstand a puncture without causing you to lose control as badly as you would with a regular tire. The wheels are stock like any other bike though, so I wouldn't let that stop you from getting the bike.
Baggers: Choppers for Pussies
Posted on Dec 8, 2009, 12:59 PM from IP address 70.155.162.55
Bought my wife a 03 road king police model. bike had 1000 miles on it when she got it. She's put about 26k on it since then. Been a good bike,no problems. The original rear tire lasted about 14k before it was gone. Its a pack mule. Anytime we go anywhere I load all my crap on her bike! jpbama
Posted on Dec 8, 2009, 1:14 PM from IP address 216.109.10.194
the bearings will spin! Have 02 FLHPI and have run both normal and police tires on wheels. Don't worry about this. YOu can get a good price on a well taken care of bike if you look around.
Posted on Dec 8, 2009, 3:56 PM from IP address 65.6.150.237
for sale. My police front lasted a long time, but I did not like the way if felt, changed to Metzler and am much happier with handling and stopping than before. Do have to change more often.
Posted on Dec 9, 2009, 9:05 AM from IP address 65.6.150.237
Was told pd's were the only ones the could buy them. Had the rear go out on me doing 65 and as anyone knows it's no fun ol went flying over my head Etc. no broken bones and got a chance to do the bike over. All was good.
Posted on Dec 9, 2009, 2:22 PM from IP address 67.216.154.88
Shop WILLnot intall pegs or rear seat on the bike w/runflats, thay are not rated for two up. When the tires wear, install reg. tires, they will not sell run flats to the public.
I've got an 02 FLHPI that I plan on owning for a LONG time. It's a great bike, glad I bought it, wou;d buy another if I had $$$$. They went to 103ci in 07 w/six speed. New chassis for 09.
Dan B.
Central Ks.
Posted on Dec 9, 2009, 7:18 PM from IP address 208.4.188.67
here in NYC, the Police bikes are very well maintained and they are unloaded while still in the prime of their lives. They are "fixed" for the most minor reasons possible and new parts are used whenever they are repaired. Oil changes are done religiously. Anyone that I know that ever bought one has had nothing but good luck with them, as opposed to people I know who bought bikes off the street that went to hell not long after they got them.
I'm on my 2nd ex police bike ('98 Road King, '01 Electraglide) both came with police tires which I kept 'til the rear wore out, then replaced the pair. Wheels are standard HD.
One dealer where I worked used to civilianize and accessorize police bikes before they'd put them on the floor. They'd use the take-off paint sets from putting custom paint sets on other bikes, and change out the seats, handlebar switches, and tires. Technically, if a dealer were to sell you an ex police bike with the police tires and a two up seat, he'd be liable if you blew a tire and had an accident. The police tires are not weight rated for two up riding. Whether or not you chose to ride on them would depend on how big you and your OL are and how heavy you load your bike.
Posted on Dec 10, 2009, 9:45 PM from IP address 76.236.83.243
How would self etching primer work on chrome? We paint alot of car stuff with it and it is the shit, just wondering if it would make paint stay on chrome better? Figured I would ask if anyone tried it first.
Posted on Dec 8, 2009, 10:30 AM from IP address 72.43.63.28
I was wondering if there were any web links/sites that anyne knows about on how to build your own springer front end? I am interested in learning more about it and posibly building my own for a project that I am planing to build for the wife.
Posted on Dec 7, 2009, 11:03 PM from IP address 74.65.10.134
The main site has a builders CD for springers, I recommend it highly.
Sugerbear sells front ends, but he's real, he will answer any questions you may have.
I can't tell you if plates are the same or not. But the '71 and up were wet. earlier were dry.
The way I lock my clutch hub is by using a strap on the trans sprocket. See Pic 1 below. Only draw back is you have to remove your chain.
Using a locking plate in the clutch hub locks the clutch to the motor. It can still turn. So I don't think that will hold it like you want . It is needed to get the engine sprocket off however.
If you use both of the locks pictured below you can remove the Trans, Clutch and motor sprockets.
The final 2 pics show how I remove the clutch pressure plate.
Pat
Note; The pics are not of he same bike.
Posted on Dec 7, 2009, 10:29 PM from IP address 24.162.235.32
Just drill 2 holes in the steel and us a piece of chain with master link on the end. Flip it to tighten. Actually I think the way it is in the photo is for tightening. (just in case someone calls me on it)
Pat
Posted on Dec 8, 2009, 7:15 PM from IP address 24.162.235.32
I don't remember needing a puller but it's been 2 or 3 years since I last pulled the hub.
I use a steering wheel puller it worked for everything I came across on a '72 XLCH. Transmission and engine sprock, etc. Less than $10 at any auto parts store.
[IMG][/IMG]
Posted on Dec 11, 2009, 6:40 AM from IP address 24.162.235.32
Got a softail-style frame, wheels and a triple tree. I seem to remember something about using a broom stick? Am using 16s in the front and back. Was told by a guy how vaguely remembered the needs for the frame (it was NOS), that it took a stock FXST or 2 over wide glide front end with a 21" rim. Would appreciate any help.
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You don't like my bike? YOU aren't supposed to like my bike!
Posted on Dec 7, 2009, 9:04 PM from IP address 165.24.253.150
Im making a springer and i dont know what rate to look for in the springs. its a typical springer, two lower and two upper springs. does anyone have this information? i found a spring kit for 85 bucks but im sure i can order them direct and save. i dont need the chrome.
Posted on Dec 7, 2009, 3:11 PM from IP address 68.65.181.84
got a California CV carb take-off (2003 Model) it has a voes port and a "I think a pollution vent or recirculation" port on the carb right behind the where the choke cable enters the carb - these ports have to be blocked off - My question is what is the best way to permanently block off these ports - don't need any extra air seeping into the carb
Posted on Dec 7, 2009, 2:11 PM from IP address 150.176.96.3
possibilities include using 2-part epoxy, or a devcon (tm)type cement or a liquid alumninum/hardener product or some kind or if possible a machined and threaded in plug. All this assumes you will be using the carb on a non-evo mill of some kind/year and don't particularly need the voes. Good non permanent plugs include those heavy rubber/vinyl items used on auto carbs to plug off un-needed vacuum ports. Holley makes a kit of various sizes for that purpose-available at any good 4-wheel indie speed shop or likely through Summit Racing.
Posted on Dec 7, 2009, 4:22 PM from IP address 216.211.15.175
then tapped the hole for a set screw, with a dab of red Loctite. I tried just a vacuum cap, then filling the fitting with RTV sealer. If you have a spit back thru the carb, it will blow off the cap or the sealer right out of the fitting. Not the set screw, though.....
Posted on Dec 7, 2009, 7:11 PM from IP address 96.33.161.134
Found an old SU carb on line and before I buy it, does anyone know if it will work with late 60's sportster internal throttle cable. It is a pull cable. I know some big twin ones with Linkert were push cables. Thanks, JA.
Posted on Dec 7, 2009, 10:51 AM from IP address 165.123.243.168
i need to paint a frame. i can't use spray bomb, cant afford powder coat and dont care about looks. are there any brush-on paints that are super tough?was thinking about bed-liner or undercoat. opinions please
Coconut Customs: re-inventing the wheel one side at a time.
Posted on Dec 6, 2009, 8:28 PM from IP address 71.162.89.158
Painted a frame (in fact the whole bike) with Eastwoods' Black Satin ChassisCoat years ago. It still looks like new. It's for restoring vintage (or any) frames to give an original looking finish. My tin has never been clearcoated. I just throw some wax at it once in a while & it still looks great.
I've used a lot of POR stuff also over the years & it's good stuff, too. You MUST follow the instructions to the letter. It's not like working with paint.
Old, worn down & still Jaded
Posted on Dec 7, 2009, 11:35 AM from IP address 68.1.167.13
And check out tractor paint.It comes in cans in any tractor color. They also have thinner and hardner. Best value,if not the cheapest. Get a good fine brissle brush and paint.When you thin the paint right it won't leave brush marks.
Posted on Dec 7, 2009, 12:06 PM from IP address 74.227.99.228
My springer has always ridden well, but seems soft on bumps. I don't get the famous pogo, but it does kind of hop a little. I've seen other newer springers that had inner and outer springs. Mine has 2 small springs on top and 2 large on the bottom. Are these supposed to have inner springs? If not, is it advisable to install a set?
Thanks,
Trevor
Posted on Dec 6, 2009, 1:51 PM from IP address 217.163.18.2
trying to tell you whether or not to add or take anything away on the description of "a springer" is not helpful to you.........
now you say it feels soft, but then it hops....... IMO, those are opposites of the same thing, so i guess i am not understanding what is going on with it.....
before you add of subtract anything on un-informed advice, let us really help you....what kind of springer?....length??.... type of bike and rake of frame???....type of front wheel tire combo????
these will all contribute to what you need to have in your setup..... and yes, it can be that time consuming to go through that many things to get it set up correctly
Keep on Keepin ON!!!!
Lightnin Mike
Posted on Dec 8, 2009, 8:35 AM from IP address 71.57.189.120
Moto Guzzi runs linked brakes on their bikes right from the factory, So has Yamaha, Honda, BMW, and pretty much everyone else in the last few years. Are you running a single disc front end right now? When you set upt teh valve, be sure to run a lot more brake to the front than the back, and be SURE to remember that they are linked when riding on gravel.
" "
Posted on Dec 6, 2009, 2:18 PM from IP address 24.220.248.59
YOU!!! It's not that hard or expensive to do. You can go to Harbor Freight or Big Lots and get a drum sander assortment and a cheapo drill. The thing with Ironheads is that the ports are already big. You really just want to clean them up and take out the flashing from the casting process and smooth out the rough spots. Don't concentrate too much on on area or you'll wind up with port irregularities. These heads aren't perfect. Cast iron is softer than you might think and works out fast. Assuming the valves are out, you can put a set of junk valves in to protect the seat. Start with a 150 or so grit and smooth out the rough spots. Save the used sanding drums. Smooth out the areas under the valve seat radius and as much as you can reach with the dremel and sanding drums. Hand sand what you couldn't reach and smooth out the surface. Put a 180 grit clean up on the intake ports and stop. Now with the used sand paper and sanding drums , soak them in chrome polish and start lightly sanding again. You'll want a chrome like finish in the combustion chambers and exhaust ports. You can trade up with 300-800 grit, but keep wet sanding it with metal polish. Clean the heads thoruoghly and reinspect. Re-install if satisfied and enjoy. I've done three sets this way and had positive results.
Happy Holidays,
Trevor
Posted on Dec 6, 2009, 1:44 PM from IP address 217.163.18.2
Although it sounds good and easy. BE CAREFUL !!!! Many of heads have been ruined by amateur porters. My advice is if you are going to do it yourself, be conservative. Do NOT remove any excess material. The closer you work towards the valve/seat, the bigger the payoff. In other words, GOOD HIGH FLOW valves, with a multi-angle seat yields the biggest payoff. I always cut a five angle seat and relieve the surrounding area in the chamber, Only lap if you have to, . You'll love it. Oh, I read a long time ago,,,, "Don't play Jerry Branch unless you ARE Jerry Branch".
Posted on Dec 6, 2009, 2:43 PM from IP address 70.217.154.13
I have seen this shop, but never stopped in to chat. It looks like a gem. Located near Butler PA. Little shop next door to house, loaded with good technology and machine tools.
The Dyna-S is just like points. It replaces the points and condensor with a solid state switch(no moving parts). The reason why you are not supposed to use a 3 Ohm coil is because the Dyna-S is not a true electronic ignition with "Dwell control" or a processor that controls how long the coil is hot or powered up before it fires. The idea is that the coil can be powered up too long between firings and overheat. Similar to leaving the key switch on and melting the coil. The 5 Ohm coil, having a higher internal resistance, limits the amount of current the coil sees and keeps it from overheating. Being able to electronically limit the amount of current flowing to the coil, after it is saturated or "fully charged", is the reason why some higher end electronic ignitions can get away with a coil rated as low as .5 Ohms
Now...to contradict my self I have converted a bunch of bikes from stock electronic ignition to points. Mostly for me or cash poor friends. LOL A points conversion is just cheaper than repacing the electronic ignition module.
I myself ran my 88 Sporty years ago when I was in school with points and the stock 3 Ohm electronic ignition coil. I was flat broke and figured I would change out the coil when it went bad. It never did. I went about 30K miles with that coil and one of my friends is still using it now.
Now....as a side note..don't try to use one of the "mini" coils. They have very fine windings to fit in a small package. They are more sensitive to overheating and will cook in short order.
To sum it up..if you have a coil already I would run it. It is up to you though. Don't forget that technically you are doing something you are not supposed to. If you need to buy a coil then get the right one.
Nick Pastore
Blacksmith Cycles
973-702-8900
www.BlacksmithCycles.com
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Posted on Dec 7, 2009, 8:40 AM from IP address 65.40.120.6
The bike is a hand shifted 83 FXWG. I am thinking about going with a hydraulic clutch. I looked at the JayBrake site but it looks like the only options for mounting are Evos. I'm sure there are other options out there and I know that anything can be modified, but I am wondering what other people have done?
Buy the ticket-take the ride!
pappyvanwinkle
Posted on Dec 5, 2009, 7:06 PM from IP address 71.211.139.46
Used the basic parts of the stock brake. He put the reservoir on top like that, but you can use a short hose or anything. I think he still has some of those master cylinders, give him a call.
586-291-4798
Posted on Dec 7, 2009, 7:11 PM from IP address 68.62.96.247
and outside of changing the fluid once haven't really touched it.
Accutronix foot clutch, old ART hydraulic kicker cover. You likely won't find the Accutronic on their website, just give them a call. Pricey, but they use Wilwood master cylinders which are as reliable as I've found. ART is no more, but the Baker kicker cover looks to be as good if not better. Don't try to save a few bucks with Custom Chrome or another foreign POS, it'll fail or leak.
Make sure to route the hydraulic line to minimize heat, I initially ran it too close to my exhaust and the "sweet spot" of engagement would move as the motor heated up. Braided line is a good idea, no need to worry about adjustment or breakage but I do carry a small bottle (travel shampoo size) of DOT5 in my saddlebag should I ever need to do a side of the road repair to brakes or clutch.
Posted on Dec 8, 2009, 11:19 AM from IP address 65.13.76.24
I was going to buy some Avon gangster wide white walls but heard that they have a tendency to wander in cracks and grooves. Can anyone suggest another wheel that has 2 3/4" white walls that are safer?
Posted on Dec 5, 2009, 5:16 PM from IP address 24.21.208.224
My experience are same, all tires will follow groves, however some seem to be worse than others. rib treads have been worst for me. a tire without straight lines but has a ziggy pattern has always performed best for grooved roads. but usually handles worse in snow & ice. lol
I have run the Avons Gangsters & black wall version of same maybe the road runner? & I didnt have any real problems. a wide tire has been better for me than the skinny tires. dual 16's seem better than a 16 rear & a 19 or 21 front, for being jerked by road groves. no matter what tread design. but skinner tires give bike a quicker handling usually.
my problems usually come from wet riding & cold weather, I have more trouble finding tires that like snow, that dont mind below freezing temps, nothing more fun than start sliding on cold dry pavement at low speeds! 1 tire I had broke loose at 30 to 35 MPH & I messed with pressure to no avail, & just had to throw on another set of cheap tires on some spare wheels until warm weather came.
Later,
Randy
Posted on Dec 7, 2009, 5:35 PM from IP address 4.248.252.33
you may just be out of adjustment. I really havn't been in a sportster trans. If you have a manual look in the trans section and it can give you some hints. I don't think its your clutch because it would have the symtoms in all gears not just 2nd. I know with my 4 speed it would only jump under a hard throttle at first. This all happend because I had some back problems and could't feel my left leg worth a shit. I couldn't tell how hard I was shifting, and nocked it out of adjustment.
Ahh Fuck-it I won't feel it till tomarrow
Posted on Dec 6, 2009, 1:21 AM from IP address 24.119.187.109
I am attempting to rebuild my engine from a 1980 sportster. I live in S.W. Wisconsin and I am looking for recommendation for a quality shop that is within a few hours drive of my house that is expierenced in building a hotrod ironhead. Any replies are greatly appreciated.
Posted on Dec 5, 2009, 11:29 AM from IP address 75.100.218.106
where at in sw wisconsin? i still have disfunctional family in s.w. wisconsin. e me if you want to chat and do your homework afore you hire anybody; references etc. but even then they could be made up. yeah i know from
Posted on Dec 7, 2009, 12:45 PM from IP address 198.215.16.154
i'm in ft.worth texas right now. trick ass parole. i grew up in benton. why not use wilwerts. at least it'll be guaranteed, sorry but i had a very expensive bad experience useing somebody who used to be here. the boy from hartsville tennesee, when i went there after he didn't show what he said he could do, he claim to be mafia. they finally run him off here, but still i lost 2 grand plus whatever else i woulde of came up with on the ghost
Posted on Dec 11, 2009, 3:14 PM from IP address 198.215.16.154
and taking it to a trailer supply place. They usually have flat fenders in a variety of diameters and widths. You might have to modify it to your tastes, but you should most likely be able to find one that sits the way you want it to without a lot of work to it.
"There are three -and only three- kinds of people in this world: those who don't know they're damaged and blame others; those who realize they're damaged and blame others; and then people like you and me, who wear damage like comfortable pajamas."
Posted on Dec 5, 2009, 2:10 PM from IP address 174.144.207.74
Did the one from Northern tool fits perfect? I dont have a metal shrinker and would have no way of modifying it. Unless there are other ways I dont know about.
Thanks for the response
Adam
Posted on Dec 5, 2009, 4:11 PM from IP address 67.173.34.55
My 85 came with 32/70 pullys, just wanted to re-use everything I could. Rear section got shortened up a bit, my center to center was about 22 1/4" (if I remember right.) Local shop loaned me a 132t, but my luck, it was just a bit too short. I ended up getting a 133t, and that one was still a pretty tight fit. If and when I have to replace it I'll probably use a 135t to make it easier to get on. Hope it works out for ya.
"Cause there's a big difference between RUBbish and white trash"
Posted on Dec 6, 2009, 10:23 PM from IP address 65.87.53.144
I have a general question for you metal heads out there. Lets say I trying to weld two rods together. I heat up the rod and a small puddle forms, I start to lay some filler material into the puddle. If the piece gets too hot, I have been pulling my torch away from the piece, moving the flame a few inches further from the puddle. Sometimes the steel will appear to boil, although from what I have read, steel should not boil.
Can you tell me what this is? Is this slag generation? Or even the alteration of metal?
Thanks, Mike
Posted on Dec 5, 2009, 1:16 AM from IP address 174.130.195.196
g. Functions of Shielded Arc or Heavy Coated Electrodes.
(1) These electrodes produce a reducing gas shield around the arc which prevents atmospheric oxygen or nitrogen from contaminating the weld metal. The oxygen would readily combine with the molten metal, removing alloying elements and causing porosity. The nitrogen would cause brittleness, low ductility, and in some cases, low strength and poor resistance to corrosion.
So, after reading about porosity, I think I have a few factors, to large of a puddle (to much heat), did not remove paint from surounding area (oils), and ...
per the above, possibly holding torch too far away from puddle losing shilding properties and flooding atmospheric Oxygen and nitrogen into the weld? I would not mind your comments on this one.
I'm still trying to dial in the proper heat level and need to know if this can be adjusted with distance between the torch and the puddle (within reason), or must the flame cone be held close to the puddle to maintain shilding. I usually start the puddle with the cone in close proximity, then back it off as required (1.5 inch max). Is this too far, or should I be adjusting my flame.
Thanks for your help.
Mike
Posted on Dec 5, 2009, 9:14 AM from IP address 174.130.195.196
I am running a softail with no handle bar contols and cant keep my left grip on the bar. I tried 1 or 2 differnt glues. Is there something that works? Will glue stick to chrome handle bars? Is there a small clamp that would take the place of the controls and help keep it secure?
Thanks
Posted on Dec 4, 2009, 10:37 PM from IP address 142.161.169.103
dishwashing soap. A thin coat helps slide the grip on, then dries to glue it on. When the time comes to take it off, use a thin wooden rod to slide underneath and spray water in it. Turns it back to soap & slides off.
jred
caution, inc.
I'm not a real mechanic but I play one in my garage.
Posted on Dec 5, 2009, 2:14 AM from IP address 75.66.248.20
are put on with double sided tape. Put down a couple of lengths of double sided tape, pour a little thinner or lighter fluid in your grip, slosch it around, pour it out over the tape, it will make the tape real slick. Slide your grip on. If you have to take your grip off, Get a syringe, fill it with thinner, squirt it under the grip and it will loosen the glue, twist it off.
Posted on Dec 9, 2009, 12:45 PM from IP address 70.245.178.119
I have a 62 sporty, I have followed the manual to set the timing. however it says that when the line is lined up in the viewing hole the small lobe on the magnito should be counter clockwise from the follower on the points. it appears to me that the mag is set 180 degrees out because the large lobe is in this position. Here are my questions.
1. should the cam lobe be just touching the follower (this is what the manual shows)
2. if in fact the mag is this far off would it still run? if so would it pop and spit through the carb?
I am hesetant to pull the mag. I have not had much experience and am trying to teach myself to work on this with the help of you all.
the bike does start up pretty easily now I have put a CV carb on it. When I bought the bike it had a different carb and would pop and spit out the carb like it does now. I assumed it was the carb but now I am not so sure.
Posted on Dec 4, 2009, 8:28 PM from IP address 98.203.204.16
the manual says to rotate motor till front intake valve closes and the piston is coming up on the compression stroke. so what I did is watch the tappet as I was rotating the motor until it was up then I continued to rotate the motor till the tappet was all the way down. at that point I continued to rotate the motor till the timing line was alligned in the viewing hole as described by the manual. am I missing something in determining when the motor is on the compression stroke?
Posted on Dec 5, 2009, 8:14 AM from IP address 98.203.204.16
as far as the compression stroke your doing it right. now if the small lobe is not where it's supposed to be don't be scared and pull the mag out and put it where it should be. you might have to stab it a few times and rotate the mag to get it right but it's not that hard. and as far as the carb is concerned it sounds like it might be running lean.coud be a intake leak or a jetting problem. judging by the popping out of the carb. hope this helps.
a biker rides anything because life is simply unaccepatable otherwhise
Posted on Dec 5, 2009, 12:11 PM from IP address 69.62.133.203
working on a TC HD that has been running SUPER rich for about 1000 miles, has some serious carbon in the chambers. Can't get authorization to tear it down, recommendations? Anyone ever use ZMax on a HD? What is out there to clean valves and chambers...? This is too nice a mill to be covered in soot. Appreciate some other opinions........
Thanks Nicko
Posted on Dec 4, 2009, 3:05 PM from IP address 71.54.147.64
that was what my boss suggested...but wasn't sure. That is cool. I thought maybe there was a next best thing, but whatever works. Thanks for taking the time to look that up for me.
Regards,
Nicko
Posted on Dec 4, 2009, 5:39 PM from IP address 71.54.147.64
I see people making engraved points covers. i would like to change the one on my sporty. however it looks like there are rivets holding it in. what do i need to do to properly take it off and mount an engraved one on there?
it's a 2001 1200xls
Posted on Dec 4, 2009, 2:15 PM from IP address 72.207.22.89
i'm in the process of fabbing mid mount controls for my 65 pan,it has kick only belt drive,wondering if i should use 3/16 or 1/4" steel for brackets?anyone out there have any templates for mids,sure would help,thanks.
Posted on Dec 4, 2009, 7:19 AM from IP address 64.143.220.132
depends on your shape and size 5/16 would be even better. after you put a foot peg on and stand on it 1/4 you wound get a lot of flex most stock harley controls are big and ugly but they do have a lot of gussets and are most 5/16 thats just my opinion hope it help SA
Posted on Dec 4, 2009, 8:34 AM from IP address 24.208.160.247
i plan on using the brake side from my old shovel and modifying it,shift side bracket will mount to original pan inner primary bolt holes.appreciate any ideas.
Posted on Dec 4, 2009, 8:47 AM from IP address 64.143.220.132
Ok, so I've done a halfway decent (IMHO) spray can paint job. What's the best clear that I can spray over it to protect it from the inevitable gas that will drip on it someday? It's gloss paint, by the way, Krylon and Testors (yeah, the ones who made those models you put together in 7th grade.)
Thanks in advance,
Ed
"Righteousness guards the man of Integrity."
(didn't say it, but I buy it.)
-Ed
Posted on Dec 3, 2009, 8:28 PM from IP address 76.111.68.95
I've been painting my bike with Rustoleum for years and it holds up to almost anything.If ya buy the quart cans and cut it with acetone,it's almost bulletproof.
Posted on Dec 3, 2009, 10:38 PM from IP address 99.154.121.166
I used automotive rustoleum rattle can just to get up and when I went down for repair I took the tank and fender to the painter and he asked me later what the hell that stuff was! He had to sand it all off cause paint stripper wouldn't touch it
Posted on Dec 4, 2009, 12:52 AM from IP address 69.12.183.149
Spraymax 2 part clear is the best. It's about 24 bucks a can, but it is a 2 part clear in a can. It will hold up to gas with no problems. Eastwood, or any major autobody shop should have it. Google it and read up on it.
Sixball
Posted on Dec 4, 2009, 3:30 AM from IP address 98.213.13.213
i have a pretty much stock 75 xs 650 that seems to have lost compression tests out at about 80psi per cyl. only things done to it are elec. ignition, and 36mm mikuni carbs. what could be my prob or what should i check. i am not to familuar with working on these engins. thanks for any help.
FTF!!!
Posted on Dec 3, 2009, 1:59 PM from IP address 67.249.197.224
FIRST set your valve lash before checking your compression.
Then report back what your find. AND, be sure to hold your carb WIDE open when checkng compression. Better yet to take the carbs off.
" "
Posted on Dec 3, 2009, 6:24 PM from IP address 24.220.248.59
Adjust valves first. Makes all the difference, and hold the throttle open while checking it. I don't know what stock is supposed to be, but mine is right at 185 on both cylinders... 80 seems super weak? But then again, I see guys kicking these things while sitting on the bike, I get tossed off of mine... Good luck...
Posted on Dec 4, 2009, 8:54 PM from IP address 97.82.203.97
well got the oil tank straigtened out. now I am using the old wireing harness. and everything is marked pretty straight forward. but it has a 3 pole ignition switch. I want to use the 6 pole in the fatbob tank dash. can anyone tell me how to wire it up? I am going to make sure it runs before I attempt to change the switches. Looks like I could just use 3 of the six...but which 3? thanks guys
Posted on Dec 3, 2009, 2:17 AM from IP address 184.0.11.192
he has posted and which could offer you a what goes where for your switch. Check a manual for a ride which uses the centre mount 6 term switch.
Or try this.
Using a multimeter set to ohms, first orient the key so the tumblers are in the "lock' position and the key can come out. Flip the switch over so you can see the terminals and the plate(s) to which they are attached. Then using the leads, check for resistance- you should have "0" between any of the joined terminals but infinity between the two unconnected sets as a whole. Okay, here you get to choose, which of the sets of three you wish to use as "in"--that is power coming into the switch and which will be "out"--that is power going out to the various circuits you will be using. Typically, the terminal which appears at about the 4 o'clock position with the switch right side up and installed usually becomes the power in from the battery/breaker. Attach a wire from the ohm-meter to that, turn the switch to the first position "on" and check to see which terminal of the opposing set now has zero resistance- you may be able to see it visually when you flip the switch upside down again but check it anyway. That is your power to the starter button-running circuits such as horn and signals. One more click will bring you to the circuit for your lights if you plan to run them separately. Again test for resistance. With the 6 pole you may find you will have to install a jumper between the 4 o'clock power in terminal and the next terminal over-about 5 o'clock, as they are not attached and you need power into that terminal in order to get lights on the other side--the older 5 terminal switches did not have that to contend with. You may also have to do the same for your power out terminals at 12 o'clock and 1 o'clock as they may be divorced as well. From there run your wires according to where/what they are supposed to work, bundle them in heat shrink if you dig pretty, and attach your wire ends using the method of your choice, crimp or solder both work well if done right. For the sake of checking and possible issues in the future, using different colors for the various circuits is useful. Show bikes often use a single color to match the paint and can be a stone bitch to trace if a short occurs. Breakers as opposed to fuses is also a personal choice. Hope this helps. JUst me
Posted on Dec 3, 2009, 2:55 PM from IP address 216.211.15.17
for that 6 pole switch. I've wired up several and I ALWAYS have to look at the last one I wired to wire the next one.... I'm losing the little I have left in there....
Whats invovled to replace fuel injection with a carb on a '04 Buell engine?
Found a deal on an engine,but don't know anything about something that new.
Posted on Dec 2, 2009, 7:22 PM from IP address 99.194.24.88
I'm not an expert on this but if it's just the motor you're starting out with,the carb will probably bolt on with a new intake.After all, It's a Sportster motor on steroids from what I know about them.
Posted on Dec 3, 2009, 10:44 PM from IP address 99.154.121.166
top but it is the old style Buell. Is yours the XB style motor with the two big ugly square boxes to hold the push rods or do you have 4 round tubes with 1 pushrod in each. I can help you with the later.
Posted on Dec 4, 2009, 10:44 AM from IP address 65.6.150.237
I'm second in line to buy it. Its the XB with the boxy pushrod covers.
On another site I read where someone with a XB replaced the F.I. with a CV and it ran better.
Posted on Dec 4, 2009, 3:32 PM from IP address 99.194.24.88
You all may know this one already. but the easest way to dissasemble your pushrod tubes is with a length of 3/8 cotton rope. loop it around the tube, twist it up to tighten the noose, pull it down, pop the clip out. You don`t mess up the tubes and its easy to carry in you tool roll. Shack
Posted on Dec 2, 2009, 10:33 AM from IP address 173.21.15.38
hadn't heard that one before, and that has always been one of my least favorite chores on a motor, getting those pain in the ass clips loose. Have to try that next time.
"There are three -and only three- kinds of people in this world: those who don't know they're damaged and blame others; those who realize they're damaged and blame others; and then people like you and me, who wear damage like comfortable pajamas."
Posted on Dec 2, 2009, 3:54 PM from IP address 70.6.72.175
As these old hands & wrists hurt worse & worse year after year, any trick like this helps. I've hurt myself & got pissed not just a few times getting these damn things out & back in. And it's funny; sometimes all goes well. Other times one will be a bitch to get back in. I think how you hold your face has a lot to do with it ;>)
Old, worn down & still Jaded
Posted on Dec 3, 2009, 9:29 AM from IP address 68.1.167.13
Well reinstalling the clip are a little hard but not that bad. I always get the top tube in the head.Then setup my rope to pull the collar down. Then set your clip into the top of the tube and use you thumb to hold it up or you could use a pair of pliers. ( the upper tube likes to come down when you are pulling on the rope). Then pull down on the rope and collar and snap the clip in. works like a charm for me. Shack
Posted on Dec 4, 2009, 6:20 PM from IP address 173.21.15.38
push inner tube into seal in head, tear a piece of a cardboard beer flat or an empty match book and place behind collar so it doesn't catch on cylinder fin, push down collar with long flatblade screw stick, push top of clip up on the lip of inner tube, slide the bottom of the clip down the blade of the screw stick, and lift the stick handle while pushing bottom of clip, sounds like a lot but it becomes second nature.
Posted on Dec 7, 2009, 10:39 PM from IP address 71.200.15.99
good evening all. this is my 1st post here as a friend suggested that this is a good place to go if you're stuck on something, so here goes. 1st of all please have mercy as i am commiting blasphemy by installing a belt as a final drive on my new rigid shovel. my question is how do i determine belt size (# of teeth)? is it as simple as tying a piece of string around both installed pulleys' and using that as a starting point? ANY help would be GRE ATLY appreciated. thanks in advance.....8bawl (hello to El Potro if you see this)
Posted on Dec 1, 2009, 8:47 PM from IP address 68.239.255.113
2
L= 2C + (N + n) + (N - n)
-------- --------
2
2 4 pi C
where L = length of belt in number of pitches (or number of teeth)
C = center distance in pitches
N = number teeth on big sprocket
n = number teeth on small sprocket
example... so say it's an 5/8" pitch chain, the front sprocket has 23 teeth, the rear sprocket has 51 teeth, and the center distance between sprockets is 26"
C = 26"/.625 = 41.6 (pitches)
N = 51
n = 23
so
L = (2 x 41.6) + (51 + 23)/2 + [(51-23)^2]/(4 pi^2 C)
simplifying the above gives us
L = 83.2 + 37 + 784/2273.9
120.6, so
L = 120 links (chain) or 120 teeth (belt)
Posted on Dec 2, 2009, 5:58 PM from IP address 74.235.109.144
a 109 or 110 tooth belt would work, given the info you provided.
you really need to measure the center to center distance from the bike you're putting the belt on though, and measure it with the rear axle in the center of the adjustment slot.
Posted on Dec 2, 2009, 8:09 PM from IP address 74.235.109.144
you need the tooth counts of the pulleys you are going to use and the measurement from the bike you're putting the belt on, as well as the tooth pitch.
otherwise you're just wasting your time and mine.
Posted on Dec 2, 2009, 8:29 PM from IP address 74.235.109.144
the measurement for the belt(ie the 20") is from the shovel, the belt tooth to tooth center is from my superglide and i am assuming(oh no) that measurement is pretty much the same for all belts......THANKS A HEAP!!!!
Posted on Dec 2, 2009, 8:23 PM from IP address 68.239.255.113
I have an issue with water condensing on my motorcycles while stored in cold weather. I havevents in the gables. I was told that there had to be airflow beneath the building. It is underpenned but had 6 ffow thru vent areas. Is there anything i can do besides heat the building? Already ruined some parts on my 98 model cruiser.
feets
Posted on Dec 1, 2009, 5:50 PM from IP address 24.74.119.45
first 7 miles inland will get salt air...... as well, even tho it gets "cold" to us, the amount of heat exchanged in a day is what causes the condensation..... its is humid here on a dry day....... wax the crap outta things before you store them, and use an automotive engine "brightener" to protect that which you dont polish........spray it on heavy....... the down side of this stuff is that it can eat through old gaskets, although it shouldn't......it doesn't really eat the gaskets but help to dry them out and they lose their flexibility, crack and in turn leak......
Keep on Keepin ON!!!!
Lightnin Mike
Posted on Dec 2, 2009, 9:05 AM from IP address 71.57.189.120
I always use a couple buckets of damp rid. I put a bucket under the dust cover, just under the motor. You should be able to find it at wal mart. Also some carpet on the floor seems to help...Mule...
DON"T BLAME ME I VOTED FOR THE AMERICAN !!!
Posted on Dec 2, 2009, 10:05 AM from IP address 207.69.139.133
i kinda remember a guy in a old easyreader mag that used pledge furniture polish on his bike. he lived in hawaii and had his chrome for about 20 years with no problems. he also used some kind of cover and a wand that heated up to keep everything dry. if i ever run across it i'll post it.
a biker rides anything because life is simply unaccepatable otherwhise
Posted on Dec 2, 2009, 11:14 AM from IP address 69.62.133.203
I moved my shop this summer, my old place was 24 x 24 stick built with concrete floor, 12 foot open rafters, roof leaked in afew places and it go kinda damp, but I was carefull where I put tools etc.. So the leaks wouldn't f anything up.
Condensation was a bitch there, the floor was so oil soaked from years of the stuff I worked on leaking. after a summer rain and humidity, the WHOLE floor would be wet.
The place I have now is double the space, but half block and half stick, no leaky roof, BUT I've seen a problem with flash rust ????
EXAMPLE: I cut an old chrome headlight mount to make an L-bracket mount one night, the very next day I went to the shop to finish it and noticed all around the edges wher I cut were orange with flash rust. Didn't rain that night, normal 60 degree late summer night in Indiana.
As I looked around the shop, nails from construction I'd been working on, were orange too, it rubs right off, but in my old shop that was wet 40% of the time, I never had flash rust at all ????
I don't have any vents, gonna install some before next summer, but anyone got any ideas on the flash rust?
I even had some old waferstyle throwought bearing oil slingers laying on the bench and noticed afew places were orange. These things sat in the old shop for years with NO flash rust. WTF ???
Sixball
Posted on Dec 2, 2009, 3:53 PM from IP address 98.213.13.213
To wire up a de-humidifier I bought at a garage sale awhile back, and I might as well pick up afew salt blocks at the farm store. Thanks, good tips, even though I hijacked the thread ......
I still just can't get my head around where the moisture is comming from. It was actually a drier summer than normal around here, and I never noticed any condensation. I've been working on the shop and added some insulation here and there, replaced two garage doors, and it's sealed pretty tight
Sixball
Posted on Dec 4, 2009, 11:06 AM from IP address 205.188.117.71
But the guy who said "were in Florida" has a point , too. So maybe salt air, not air flow it is not your issue. But that being said, I had a cedar wood shed that sat on a blacktop driveway. I paid extra for the heavy duty floor and it was up on bricks/4x4's and had a ramp to ride in as well as 2 gable vents. This made a huge difference over the old cheap ass metal shed with plywood floor on the grass with no room underneath. I now have a garage, and this was all in a PA climate, but helped a lot.
Posted on Dec 5, 2009, 1:25 PM from IP address 165.123.243.168
starts great idles fine starts cutting out under a load??? acts like starving for fuel or a short some where? just rewired this summer and fuel looks clean WTF
Jay
...O~`o
Posted on Dec 1, 2009, 3:29 PM from IP address 129.230.248.1
points,plugs,condenser, fuel,gas cap, fuel filter,battery,air filter,advance unit,wiring. just cause it's new doesn't mean it's good. one time buttcracks bike started breaking up on the freeway. so we did a little looking. come to find out his battery was dry. put water in it and it got us home. BTW this was in north Carolina. so you never know until you check.
a biker rides anything because life is simply unaccepatable otherwhise
Posted on Dec 2, 2009, 12:03 AM from IP address 69.62.133.203
Doing a rebuild on my '66, need to make some tools, want to make one out of a clutch plate to hold my clutch hub so I can loosen the sprocket, what is the difference between a 900 clutch plate and a 1000?
Posted on Dec 1, 2009, 1:21 AM from IP address 71.74.224.231
from what I can see in the catalogs I have here, it looks like they changed the clutch basket. A buddy of mine has a 1971, and it seems like they did a lot of changing around and experimenting from 70-72.
"There are three -and only three- kinds of people in this world: those who don't know they're damaged and blame others; those who realize they're damaged and blame others; and then people like you and me, who wear damage like comfortable pajamas."
Posted on Dec 1, 2009, 4:18 AM from IP address 173.127.175.245
If the newer clutch plate would physically fit in an older clutch shell. A friend offered up a newer-style clutch plate so I can make a tool and wonder if it would work in the older shell...
Posted on Dec 1, 2009, 9:38 AM from IP address 71.74.224.231
and see if it lines up, if so use it, if not, you aren't out anything but a little bit of time.
"There are three -and only three- kinds of people in this world: those who don't know they're damaged and blame others; those who realize they're damaged and blame others; and then people like you and me, who wear damage like comfortable pajamas."
Posted on Dec 1, 2009, 11:49 PM from IP address 99.204.196.155
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