I finally got my DIY spring compressor finished....and I believe it should work..LOL. At any rate, my understanding is that a small amount of pressure is applied to the rear of the chamber so that the pin can be removed. How much force is needed to remove the pin that runs through the spring guide?? I was curious if I'm gonna have to apply a fair amount of force, or if it will just slide out...don't want to apply more force than needed. Please bear with me, this will be my first. Thanks.
Thanks for your help guys. I know this is gonna sound stupid but
October 13 2006, 4:55 PM
Is left to right for removal or is it how Gamo installed it?? Does that mean that I am going to be tapping the pin on the right side to move it out on the left side for removal?? (and reverse for installation) or do I have it backwards?
I also forgot to ask in the initial post...Does or should the entire trigger mechanism need to be removed in order to remove the spring and piston? Thanks again.
This message has been edited by Mark052 on Oct 13, 2006 5:03 PM
You have to remove the retaining nut for the trigger assembly...
October 13 2006, 5:28 PM
to get the breach plug out, this will make the trigger assembly loose and want to come out when the breach plug is backed out as it will now be held in only on the rails that are visible. The inclination is for the trigger assembly to slide backward on these rails as the breech plug is backed out. The sear will probably catch so go slow as you back out the breech plug and if it seems hung up, look at the front of the trigger assembly for the sear catching and just pull down on it gently and it should slide right out.
Once the breech plup is out an inch, which should happen even if the sear catches there is not a lot of spring tension left. Wear goggles, but you'll see it's easy once you've done it once. Like everthing else.
I'll be on most of the night if you get hung up. I've done it a dozen times.
P.S. Pin, tap it out from right to the left, it always worked for me.
This message has been edited by bigbore on Oct 13, 2006 6:12 PM This message has been edited by bigbore on Oct 13, 2006 5:30 PM
I noticed that too. I never measured the pin but it didn't seem like it was tapered. Tap it gently on the side easiest to work on(start on Ken's recommended side) and see if it comes out, if not try the other side. It's not a big deal, just make sure it's supported and doesn't slip off of the spring compressor while you're working on it.
When it's out, you'll see you worried about it too much. If you know which end of a screw driver to use you'll be fine.
The hard part is doing all the tricks we're going to show you once you get it apart.
This message has been edited by bigbore on Oct 13, 2006 10:15 PM This message has been edited by bigbore on Oct 13, 2006 10:13 PM
Interesting. None of my pins on my rifle are tapered. They are just straight pins. They are not splined either except for maybe the cocking handle pin. I work with tapered dowel pins everyday plus straight dowel pins.
To me, a tapered dowel pin wouldn't make any sense, since you are not lining up a wide area nor do you have a thick wall on the tube.
A tapered dowel is easy to see with the naked eye if made to taper standards. You drill a straight hole and use a taper reamer to finish the tapered hole for the tapered dowel pin.
Thanks again guys. I wanted to get an idea how much force I could
October 13 2006, 11:18 PM
expect to apply to the pin to remove it. I've been known to try to use a little too much force in moving an item....kinda like trying to force the proverbial square peg in a round hole. I was afraid that I'd be forcing the pin out the wrong side and saying "Uh oh". I've been known to do that...oooops. I'll take it easy and see what happens. (I think I'm starting to psyche myself out).
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