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Help! Mark II misfireing.
by
I just put in a Volquartzen accurizer kit...Trigger pull is great!
My problem is that I get frequent misfires. This is a problem when you are shooting bullseye at the time!
I DID replace main spring (pain in but to change) should I change back? This seems to be the answer to me, does anybody have any other suggestions?
How does the Volquartzen spring improve the action of gun anyway? It would have no effect on trigger pull...just a faster and harder hitting firing pin...or am I wrong?
Thanks for your help, I am new to this forum and have found it very helpful.
If you got the mainspring that comes with the accurizing kit, it should not be installed. Change it back.
This note from Bill at Ontarget:
Note The reduced power mainspring will reduce the force of the hammer as it strikes the firing pin, possibly causing light hits on the round. If you have any problems with light hits, I recommend putting the factory mainspring back in.
When a trigger is pulled by the operator it exerts force on the sear. The sear is held locked under tension by the hook(s) of the hammer. This tension originates from the force (or pressure) exerted on the hammer by the mainspring. The mainspring tension (force) is a significant determining factor of the firearm's overall trigger weight. The mainspring is the primary source of tension that the sear and trigger have to overcome in order to release the hammer. By placing a reduced power mainspring in a firearm the pressure required to release the hammer is less and therefore the trigger weight is reduced. The problem with that is; by reducing the hammer tension the force pushing the hammer is also reduced, creating a lighter strike by the firing pin. The good news is ; by replacing you old mainspring your pistol should return to it's old reliability as mentioned before by MarkP. You probably will not notice much of an increase in trigger weight but there will be some increase. You may sacrifice a little trigger pull weight but having the relaibility of ignition is a far better gain.
Does anybody know how to fix the factory mag? I had to buy two new mags because the orginal one wont keep the bolt open after the last shot. Now one of my new mags has the same problem! Is there anything I can do so I dont have to dry fire or count every shot? Any advice is greatly appericated.
You can send it back to Ruger to get it fixed. Give them a call. I don't think you need to go through the whole FFL thing to send the gun to be fixed, as long as it gets returned to the originating address.
What grips do you have on the pistol? Some of the rubber grips(pachmayr)put enough pressure on the bolt stop that it will not move upward quick enough on the last shot to hold the bolt open.
It's not the magazine. It's more than likely a worn out Bolt Stop Assembly (part no. A037-02).
Call Ruger and tell them what it's doing, they'll send you the part free. It' not hard to put in, or you could send it to them to put in.
My 678GC was doing the same thing. Called them, they sent the part. I took the old one out and compared them. I couldn't see a difference with the naked eye, but once the new one was installed I could that it made better contact with the bolt face and the gun fires flawlessly now.
Takes 10 minutes to put it in. You have to push the front pin about half way out so that you can release the bolt stop assembly from being lodged behind/under the plunger (A043). With a little wiggling the bolt stop assembly will come out. It's kinda locked in by the bolt stop thumb piece (A047).
The bold stop assembly is worn by not pulling back on the bolt to lower the bolt when it is held back by the bolt stop assembly. May not appear worn but if you lock the bolt back without a magazine inserted and look at the connection made on the bolt face by the bolt stop assembly, the stop assembly should be catching the center portion of the Bolt catch surface.
If it is catching on the inner edge of the catch surface, what will happen is, after the concusion of the last round being fired, the assembly won't catch the bolt and it will either slam on forward, or get jammed on top of the magazine.
I have a Sig Trailside Target pistol and am considering the Ruger KMK-678CG(Competition model) or the KMK-678. Is the Competition model worth the extra money?
your Sig/Hammerli Trailside is a pretty light pistol compared to either the KMK678GC or KMK678.... there is 1/4 lb, difference between the two Rugers (tapered barrel vs slabside bull) and that weight is up front, if you like the way that feels, that may be worth considering as an asset for the 678GC.... If you happen to like the thumbrest grips on the 678GC...another asset compared to the 678.... IMO accuracy is likely the same though....the 678GC is drilled and tapped for scope or dot mount which gives you many more options for mount combinations... which brings me to the reason I am responding... My KMK678GC is setup with the Ruger mount supplied with the pistol which does not require the removal of the rear sight...now it is different than the typical weaver type rail..in that it has 4 dovetail scoops cutout on the sides of the mount which only accept the 1 inch scope rings that come with the 678GC. The rings are sweet,.. rock solid,...and what was important to ME.....I can at any time..take on or off the 1 inch millet Red Dot I use occasionally and use the iron sights which are always there ( I like iron sights and if not for this mount setup I prob would not play with a dot at all) I have put it on and off maybe 8 times and..............because of the Ruger mount setup that comes with the 678GC It always maintains it's zero..I am serious...makes it really nice to pop it on and play once in awhile without screwing around with zeroing in..I have a 50 cent piece in my gear bag..in 20 seconds I can set the dot and ring assembly on the mount...crank it tight...and walla... I AM DOTMAN
Price a good mount rail...and first rate scope rings and you may find that it equals the difference in the price of the two pistols ( the Ruger rings are very nice, though a bit heavy, but I like the weight to balance the gun)
Now mind you ..all this goes out the window if you want a 30 ml redot but I happen to like the smaller 1 inch....and maybe others here have also come up with setups that will hold the zero... but the setup that came with my 678GC is priceless to me!!!
Is the 678GC worth the xtra $$,,well... grips, drill and tap, mount, rings, barrel weight,,,and (no guarantee here) the cool slabside look will have the babes all over you!!
so there is my 50 cent piece worth... hope that fills in some holes in your decision
PS I once looked at the trailside but the one I saw had fixed rear sights does yours?
Ruger will exchange your 1" rings for 30mm rings for a $5.00 shipping charge if you want a larger red dot.
You can also exchange the standard base for one with longer ring spacing for the same shipping charge.
Thanks very much. I do like playing with a red dot sight and the setup of the GC means I do not have to spend the money on a mount and rings. Sounds like you really like the GC and I was hoping to get that kind of feedback.
The Trailside has the adjustable rear sights and wood grips, but is the 4.5" model. Shoots sweet, but I should have gotten the 6" model.
I would like to get a red-dot some day, but wouldn't want to give up the iron sights. I have the GC, also, and it is goot to know that a red-dot maintains Zero when removed and replaced.
Heya Radar...I should probably mention that when I assembled the rings and Millett Red Dot to the Ruger mount..I did lay a thin bead of Flash Cyanoacrylate
(model super glue) to all 4 inside curves of the scope rings and evenly but quickly tightened all together while the glue was wet. I suppose one could use epoxy also...as you can imagine I do not intend to use this red dot for any other applications and I do not know if one could achieve the same without adhesive?? I have never liked tightening too much on a scope body...and with just metal to metal ..no glue one may get some twisting
with a red dot mounted on it. It shoots great. The only thing I can find that might be a problem is it's weight. Put a red dot on it and it makes for a very heavy pistol, at least for me.
Compared to my 5.5 bull SS it weighs more, but is worth it
by Greg
Same bottoms, both 22/45s, but different tops, the 5.5" bull is iron and the 6 7/8GC slab has a rail and PDP3 dot. So different a feel, but both so fun to shoot. Like blondes and redheads...different but both very interesting to toy with.
Hey all, I was field stripping my MK II for cleaning tonight, and as you can tell from my message title, I didn't get very far. The bolt only comes about halfway out of the receiver before stopping abruptly, stopping just before you can see the spring. I cleaned it once prior to attempting this time, and the bolt slid right out. This is a fairly new pistol, with only about 300 rounds through it. It may not be related, but I had three stovepipes today at the range late in my session, which I had chalked up to the breaking-in process. After trying a few times, but not wanting to force it out, I just put the mainspring back in and the pistol seems to be fully functional. The bolt moves fine. Also, it was cold (Michigan, brr) at the range--I don't know what difference that makes, but I wanted to be as specific as possible Has anyone had this problem? Any particular conditions that spring to mind?
You may have forgotten to make sure the hammer was uncocked. Point the pistol straight down and pull the trigger. You may even have to shake it in this position to get the hammer to fall forward. Now it should come apart without hanging up.
I just put a new Millett rear sight on my KMK512(narrower notch is nice) But it took an entire evening to do it!!!! Problem was that when I tightened up the 2 set screws..the unit seemed to tweak and bind up the movement of the elevation arm. Seems that the dovetail cut on the pistol made contact high and center primarily and as the setscrews where tightened, it well...kinda folded the sightbase so that it pinched. I chose to coin the top outer 4 corners of the base with a small cold chisel to create contact there so it did not "fold"..It worked..and I do like the sight but yikes what a hassel. I know I have seen others talk about getting Millets ...did you have problems also???? or maybe it is just my pistols way of getting back at me for its lack of use lately!!
HA! just wondering Aimhigh
I got my stock sight off last night, but don't know how the sight fits into the dovetail. It seems that when they packaged my sight, and they included an allen wrench to tighten the set screws, they forgot to check if the allen wrench would actually fit the screws. The Wrench is one or two sizes too small.
I haven't had time to dig out an allen wrench. When I do, I will let you know how it fits.
Just installed my sight. Not sure it fit quite right, but I got it installed none the less. I also noticed that when I tightened down the set screws, that the elevation arm was binding.
All I did to fix the problem was to loosen the screws, and then tighten them again. I think I got the torque a little more even this time and the arm doesn't bind any more. Maybe that is the reason that the stock sight only has one set screw? In any case, I was glad not to have to do any surgery.
All you Ruger Mark I owners; What's the one thing you wish your pistol would do? How about lock the bolt open after the last shot in the magazine has fired!
This feature is even more important to all of you who shoot Bullseye Competition, since your pistol bolt will remain closed after the fifth round from the magazine has fired. Was it a dud? Or, has the last round in the magazine been expended? Well, the picture at the end of this post will give you a outline for a new magazine follower that will hold your bolt open after the last shot is fired.
It's pretty simple to make a set of these extended magazine followers. I used some aircraft grade aluminium for this project. Take an old regular follower from a magazine and trace it. This will give you the proper feed angle for the cartridge and basic size for the new extended follower. Trace out an extended follower tab directly above the normal follower line, it should be no taller than the width of a single .22 cartridge. Then draw a 90' angled line from the back edge of the new follower tab (top) line downward to the cartridge feeding line from the (old) regular sized magazine follower (bottom) line. This is the edge of the follower that will catch the bolt after the last round has fired and hold it open. Then cut out the 90' notch created by the intersection of the line between the old feed line and the new line.
Round and shape the new follower to fit into the magazine with a file. Put the fitted aluminium extended follower into the magazine a mark where the magazine button is located when the follower is at the correct height using the magazine slot as a reference guide. A #30 twist drill will create the proper sized hole for the factory button to be inserted.
This whole project took me about three hours to complete. Mostly my time was spent using a hacksaw for cutting the solid billet of aluminium into slabs and then for shaping them with a large bastard mill file for proper thickness for fitting into the magazine.
Once complete, these followers will catch the bolt and hold it open after the last shot from the magazine has fired. The only drawback is; the magazine will now hold one less round than its regular capacity. For me, this less capacity issue is no problem, since I only load five rounds into the magazines for the sustained fire stages of Bullseye Competition. However not having to dry fire the last shot on an empty chamber is great benefit and gives me tremendous piece-of-mind.
ahhh necessity is indeed the mother of invention
and what you have come up with is sorely needed. kudos to you...............Ahem ya coulda polished one for the picture (smile) just kidding
Bullseye is such a giver! give,give,give
You know you may be a gun nut if:
you have ever actually used up an entire bottle of locktite
I have a Ruger Mark II gov modle with the slab barrel. I love this pistol and it has been a source of much satisfaction.
A barrel was given to me recently...it is a AMT (Arcadia Machine & Tool) Stainless Steel, 8 inch barrel with grooves for scope rings. The barrel fits my frame very very loose. The AMT barrel is possibly old but I do not know how old (S# G0003xx).
Does anybody have a AMT Barrel? or dealings with this company? I do not even know if this barrel is a "Good" quality product or not? I guess I am tring to decide if this is worth the effort to correct?
They are not the same thing. If you have a receiver tube & barrel, then your trying to fit parts together from two different manufacturers. These parts were not meant to be together.
What I mean is that the barrel and receiver are made by Arcadia and the frame is ruger as is the bolt. I can get the whole mess together no problem...but the receiver is sloppy on frame, at the front and back.
Sorry Fred. I've never tried to put an AMT upper on a Ruger frame. It would make sense to me that there would be at least a loose fit, since they were created on separate Tool & Die Machines. Tolerances between the two manufacturers would have to be dead on to get a good fit. I don't know how much cooperation there was between Ruger and AMT for Mark II's.
Installed a Valquarzen accurizer kit and polished the bolt and insice of reciever...cycles veerry smooth.
I am looking for resonably priced ammo for this gun. Federal seems to have between 2 and 10 percent duds in the last two batches I have purchased. Do you have a favorite?
When I'm not shooting high dollar Eley red box, I buy some Winchester Dynapoints in a bulk pack from Kmart ($12.99/500) for practice. I've had the same experiences with the Federals that you did. I've also had the similar experiences with Winchester T-22, Remington Standard Velocity Target for failing-to-fire (FTF) in several different target pistols. I do get a few FTF's with the Dynapoints but its much less than the others.
In the past month I've gone through 3 bricks of Remington Thunderbolt: $9.95 / 500 rounds. In total I've had one dud, 2 failure to eject, and one stove pipe. In all honesty, I thnk the problems were more related to the temperature (all problems occured when the temp was below 15 degrees). Hey, what can I say, it's Michigan.
What type of Federals have you tried? I like the Lightnings. Out of the several thousand I have fired, if I recall correctly, any duds fire if I put them through a second time. The few times I have had problems like this, I finally noticed that my gun was getting gummed up and the bolt wasn't sliding closed all of the way. They cost about 99 cents a box.
I have only shot one box of the Federal Bulk Pack, so I can't comment on the dud rate for those.
I've also had problems with Federal ammo in my MKII. I do a LOT of plinking and I shoot a LOT of cheap ammo. I've shot bulk pack Federal, Remmington, Winchester, CCI, and every other cheap ammo made. I hated the bulk pack federals with a passion. Not only did I have dozens of duds per box, but there was no consistency whatsoever, some shots were much weaker than others. I shot the Winchester bulk pack with pretty much the same effect. I tried the Federal Lightning also. They seemed to do well for me, much better than the bulk pack. Then I stumbled onto the Remmington Thunderbolts. The Thunderbolts are much more reliable and I get much better groups than with the Winchester or Federals but they are also VERY dirty. I found myslef cleaning my gun about every 800 - 1000 rounds. The chamber would get so dirty that the bolt couldn't push the cartridge all the way into the chamber, then when I would try to pull the bolt back to extract it, I would find that it was wedged too tight for the extractor to pull it out. But I guess almost all cheap ammo is dirty.
I've recently started shooting CCI Blazers. I don't know how they group on paper but they seem to be fairly accurate from what I can tell from plinking in the mountains near my house. I've went through about 500 rounds so far and my gun isn't nearly as dirty as it would be after shooting the same number of Thunderbolts. I cant remember having any duds in the Blazers. But like I said, I've only gone through about 500 rounds, but they've impressed me so much that I've already ordered another 1000 rounds which are on the way. I guess after shooting these I'll have a little more info.
To make a long story short, Remmington Thunderbolt is my recommendation for good cheap ammo, if you dont mind cleaning. However, if the Blazers perform like the last box I shot, they'll be at the top of my list.
I'm posting this subject on this web site because it has more discussion about RedDots.I used info from here to put a RedDot on my MKII and think its great. I would like to put one on my 10/22 mag. I can get a mount for it but need input on the type and size (30mm,45mmor what).I don't want to go to much,maybe less than $100 if possible. Thanks for any help.
Aluminum cannot be "blued" as non stainless steel can,however, it can be anodized in various colors, including blue. There is a touch up chemical, the name of which I cannot remember, to hide nicks and scratched in aluminum, believe it or not I think the stuff is call aluma blue. It is commonaly available at gun stores and hardware stores. Hope this helps, Brad
Seems like a lack of velocity and same old stuff when things are posted lately...maybe the season, but how about some shooting stories, tips for score improvement, maybe a challenge about best 10 round string from x feet or some range reports/ammo comparo's? Come on guys, let's get some original content in here.
My Rugers are green with envy lately....they have watched over 4,000 .22LR rnds go through my new .22 tool...(last trip to the range ..I left my 6 7/8 at home so it would not be too bummed out) the new tool is a .22 conversion unit made by Marvelprecision.com. It has been atop my SA 1911A. I now have over 5,000 trigger pulls on my .45 which would have cost a small fortune in ammo, and though it has a 4+ lb. trigger,, we now work in unison...and we hit whatever we wants!!
What a great practice tool!! I shoot 100 .22 rnds then shoot a couple of .45 clips...back to .22 and so on.. The unit comes off and on with a twist of the recoil rod and its own slide stop...20 seconds...superb accuracy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! this unit was factory tested and the avg. 5 round group at 50 yards is .64 in. from ransom rest! that is the Average of I believe around 10 groups not the best of 10. the actual laminated target came with it..I put 50 .22 rounds into a 3 in. target dot offhand at 25 yards yesterday,,,,,Ok so it took 4,000 rounds to do it HA! but to know that when My .45 comes up.......the instinctive trigger pull and muscle memory is now there to hit.... is a great feeling. Trigger practice is second to none when it comes to knowing you can hit methinks..... AND.. I have saved the dough to get the progressive reloader for my sack of .45 brass..HA ya gotta love it!!..Oh..and 4,000 .22 rnds = 3 feed failures and 2 of those were on an occasional sandbag rest where the bag rubbed the recoil.
Ok back to Rugerville...I will still use my beloved KMK 5 1/2 and 6 7/8 when I go looking for wild turkey heads but I cannot guarentee that the Marvel/Springfield will not be hanging on my left hip.
Oh and Bullseye, how many of these Marvel units do you see in competition??? methinks they can stand up to the high end pistols if one has a nice frame to mount them on..
Be safe...you guys are great
Aimhigh
I haven't seen anyone using the Marvel Conversion Unit in competition. But I have seen them using those units in practice. You hit it on the head, the conversion unit has good accuracy and is a great way to practice that big bore trigger pull without emptying your wallet. In competition most folks want that NRA two and a half pound trigger weight limit for the .22 stages, really cuts down on trigger break time and with the light recoil allows for more time on target. If uncle sweetheart didn't give me lots of ammo, I'd probably consider getting a marvel too!
I saw your question on the other forum. I think you've already got a good answer where to look for the manufacturer. Lett Grips is more than likely the company for those grips with the medalions inlayed into them.
HAS ANYONE INSTALLED ONE OF VOLQUARTSEN'S ACCURIZING
KITS THEMSELVES? WHERE CAN I GET DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS
ON HOW TO DO IT? WHAT TOOLS WILL I NEED? CAN IT BE DONE BY THE COMMON MAN, OR DO I NEED A DEGREE IN
MECHANICAL ENGINEERING? ANY HELP AT ALL WOULD BE MUCH
APPRECIATED! FEEL FREE TO EMAIL ME
Lots of folks here have the Volquartsen kit or parts of it installed. I think the consensus is that most are happy with it. While you're at it, don't forget the Ontarget trigger shield and the Vol. Exact Edge Extractor, more worthwhile investments.
I just completed my installation of kit into my Ruger Mark II. I admit I had it all together and it would not work.
I began a search on internet for additional info...I found this site and the above post. The illustrations and directions where VERY helpful. (I had sear spring loaded improperly).
I am impressed with Volquartsen Kit, almost as much as with this forum.
My next improvements will be to polish the bolt and ramp, install trigger shield and extracter.
I've owned a 22/45 for afew years now, and I must say that since i stumbled onto your site here about a month ago, I have gotten a lot of useful info. you guys really know your stuff and I find you guys knowledge base really helpful and a lot of guys giving good advice. Keep it up!
Where can I buy a Ruger Mark II clip at a good price?
by
I inherited my grandfathers Mark II but there wasn't a clip. I would like to have a Ruger made metal clip but I guess I can't be too picky. Any thoughts? I saw them on the Ruger site for $20 + shipping. I also looked on the Ruger site at the section where you can match up your serial number and tell when it was made but mine didn't come close to matching any of them. Where can I look now?
I bought an M10 magazine for my Ruger and it was just barely too long. What the heck model is my Ruger? It looks exactly like the picture on the Ruger site for the MKII. Is it the "Old Style Auto"? I'm just about to give up! I looked on the website suggested by MarkP http://www.sportables.com/ruger_pistols.htm and it says it was made in 1958 and is a "Standard Automatic & Mark I .22 Caliber". Does anyone have any ideas? I'm tired of wasting time and money on this. I now own three M10 magazines I can't use. HELP!
Your problem intrigues me. I have examined many makes of the Ruger 9 & 10 round magazines and their overall body length is identical. I have a Mark I and it can hold either capacity magazine. Perhaps you can examine your pistol from the bottom (magazine well) and ensure the magazine follower button is on the correct side for the scallop cut in your frame. The date of your pistol tells me the button channel of your pistol will be on the left (looking at your pistol from the bottom and with the barrel facing away from you). If this is the case then does your magazines have button grooves cut into both sides of the magazine body? If they do then you can switch sides of the follower button's location and you should be OK.
The magazine does have groves on both side but I don't know how to get the darn thing apart to move the button to the other side. Are there any directions on a website some where?
actually just push in the pin on bottom base and slide the base off..... and don't point it at your dog when you do it!! control the spring!! (smile)
Aimhigh
Because of everyones help on this site, I was able to find a place to order a clip, find out I had the right one after all, and how to fix it to make it work. I really want to thank everyone and God Bless!
Some of what a pistol is worth depends on the overall condition. If the finish has a lot of wear then it's going to be valued less. If your pistol is in immaculate to excellent condition then it's worth approx $200 - $250. If your pistol has wear on it then the value is less to significantly less depending on the overall condition. You'll have to be the judge of the condition but the figures I provided ought to get you in the ballpark for you insurance company.
I'm very pleased to hear you have your magazine problem all worked out. Happy shooting!!!
I've been lurking for some time now and just purchased a KMK 512. But heard at the range the other day that there's a rumor of a Mark III, in 22 WMR anybody else know anything, because I might have to bust the budget again.
I would much rather see Ruger make a pistol in the same style as the MkII but in caliber .32 S&W. I think that would make a great indoor galery pistol.
Assuming that the closer the sight is positioned to the bore axis the better. Then it would seem a red dot sight mounted with a So-Low is better than the same sight mounted with low rings on an MGW no-drill mounting base. Or, in this comparison is the actual height difference small enough so as to be of no real consequence. The MGW set-up leaves some option for the seasonal sight migration to the model 1100 slug gun. I estimate the weight difference is 2.5 ounces with the MGW heavier. Is there an accuracy penalty from weight and height with the MGW/Weigand choice?
For me the sight height between the MGW and So-Low mounts are a non-issue. The extra half inch the MGW mount adds to the overall scope height is more than offset by its flexibility, interchangability, and cost. .22 LR's shoot a pretty flat trajectory anyway, so once you've got the ammo adjusted in on your scope, there's little change between brands. I may have a one or two click change between different brands of ammo. The so called So-Low height advantage is more of an advertising gimmick to me. I've shot both and I own MGW's.
I got the b-square universal which is very high. I shoot indoors so the max. length is 25 yrds. I sighted my red-dot between 15 and 25 and it works well at both.
Last night at 10 yrds(a warm up), I found that it hit consistantly low(2"), which makes sense with a 'high' mounting. This is not a pratical issue, since I want to shoot the longer distance.
just an observation that I think is relavent to your question.
Actually it's a replacement sight blade for the Ruger adjustable rear sight. I will turn 40 in 6 months and I notice iron sights are alot fuzzier than they used to be. I ordered the One Ragged Hole sight and installed it but probably won't get to shoot it until next weekend. Here's a link to their website http://www.oneraggedhole.com .
Looking forward to your report on One Ragged Hole sight
by Double Nickel
I look forward to your report on One Ragged Hole sight.
Now with tri-focal glasses at the double nickel of life I would like to know how effective One Ragged Hole is. Presently shooting enjoyment would be limited without the aid of my Red Dot sight.
It's worth the money. My only complaint is it could be a bit more stout where material souronding the site itself is concerned. I realize the tab has to fit into the existing stock Ruger base. This being on the Roger models with windage adjustments, but if it were a bit thicker like a real ghost ring, it would be an improvement. Strictly cosemetic for sure. I swear by ghost rings though for quick target acquisition.
As for the front site, try the HIVIZ HRB1001 for Rugers. easy installation and you can choose between red and green colors with various sizes of Litepipes. Six in all with a little protective case with which to store the others when not in use. Easily exchanged also. I think for non Red Dot shooting, this combo is the ticket!
Was given a set by larryw, a frequent contributer on this site. They definitely made a great improvement in the grouping of my pistol(P512). Made a shot an a running rabbit that my friends are still talking about today. I wear bifocals, but have a dedicated pair of glasses for shooting, and the old sight blade was still getting fuzzy. These made a difference............Hope it helps, Joe
It's starting to look like spring outside - not snowing and the temp is above 25.
Over the winter I bought a new KMK678GC. Been taking it to the range in my truck in a lockbox. Love it. But, now that spring is almost here I need to find a comfortable holster for wandering around in the country and plinking. Anyone have a recommendation for their favorite and/or for one that I should be sure to avoid?
You can find these at stores like Walmart and K-mart. If you go to the bottom of the page, you can click on "Holster Wizard" and it will also pull up a sholder holster and a bandolier holster.
Haven't tried any of these myself, so I can't give you a recomendation.
I've got a couple holsters for my MK II KMK512. Since you do have the stainless model I would recommend the Triple K. They have a model made especially for the MK II. It has an extra mag pouch, and it's lined to prevent wear. I picked mine up at Cabella's for about $50.00. However, if you aren't looking to spend that much on a holster, you could pick up a Sidekick Made by Uncle Mike's. I think mine is a size eight and it fits my 5 1/2" barrel very nicely. It's been a good holster for the money, I think I paid about 12 bucks for it. I just bought another Sidekick for my Makarov also. The only drawback to the Sidekick is that it doesn't have a magazine pouch. Hope this helps.
You said the majic words: triple K at Caballas. I've been looking at this holster on the web and have just been waiting for someone to recommend it. You sold me.
The main problem has been that lots of people have recommendations for the 5.5 in. barrel but few seem to use a holster with the 6 7/8 " barrel.
Has anyone had any trouble ordering these? what was the ship time?
I placed an order for them Last saturday, having a lot of trouble contacting any one....there is flat no answer at the toll free number, the main line the only thing you can get is an answering machine, ...there web order is broken....shall I go on?
Today through Friday is the S.H.O.T. Show in Orlando. Most gun and gun part manufacturers are there. If you haven't been able to contact them by tomorrow, try Monday when everyone gets back.
When I placed the order they told me that I should receive the mounts in about a week. After a week I called back and left a message on the answering machine. They called me the next day to tell me that they just shipped them and I had them 2-3 days later.
Has anyone had this problem? Any particular conditions that spring to mind? 
Hope you find something you like.
