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Gov v/s Non-Gov
by
Okie doke. Ready to buy a 22 so I can have fun, but do it cheaper!
I've narrowed down my selection to the MK-678 series, but have been unable to find the difference between the MK-678 and the MK-678G, besides 4 ounces. Any other helpful information would be appreciated.
Also, should I expect my 36 grain Remington Golden ammo to work OK out of the box?
The Bulk Pack Remmington will shoot just fine in either of the 678 Series Rugers you are considering.
The BIG problem is that you will experience 3 or 4 missfires Failure To Fire)with the Remmington Bulk Pack Brass Plated Hollow Points.
The same problem happens all over the US, so if it happens to you, don't blame your new Ruger - it's Remmington's lack of Quality Control.
The KMK678GC is a very popular, and extremely accurate Target Pistol.
You can't go wrong with either model, but there are some differences. The Slabside comes with scope mount and is drilled and tapped for the mount. Not much of a factor unless you are going to use a red-dot or other optical sight. The Slabside also has some nice wood grips, but that is just a matter of personal taste. The Government model has a polished chamber and a different crown on the barrel. According to Ruger neither feature makes one model more accurate. The federal government just wants theirs that way. Also, you get a sample fired target with the government model. Of course, you can make your own with the Slabside. Bottom Line: Look at both and get the one you like and that fits your shooting requirements. Anticipate some initial reliability issues until the gun is broken in - about 1,000 rounds. I'd order a Volquartsen extractor and a trigger shield from OnTarget right now and install first time you take the gun apart for cleaning.
I bought a Govt model years ago to shoot Bullseye. I put a compensator on it. This made the pistol a bit too front heavy but the recoil was almost non-existent. I shot well with that pistol but my choice today would be a 5 1/2" barrel or the slabside.
You specifically mention the MK-678 and the MK-678G. They both have an adjustable rear sight and a 6 7/8 inch barrel. The difference is in the barrel WEIGHT.
The MK-678 has a TAPERED barrel while the MK-678G has a BULL barrel. That is where the 4 oz. difference is. You can see pictures of both models on the ruger web site.
I bought the bull barrel Govenment model because to me it looked cool. Others find it too front heavy and recomend the shorter 5 1/2 inch bull barrel. They say both lengths shoot just as well.
The slab side model people are talking about here is the KMK-678GC or "Government Competition" model. This one comes with thumb rest grips and is drilled and tapped for scope rings.
If you are buying a 6 7/8, shoot some good stuff through it. No crap like Rem.Golden HPs. Try CCI Blazer or Wolf or even CCI Green Tag. Why Buy a Ferrari and drive it on 86 Octane? Next, break out some CCI Velicitor and get some real fun.
The GC is counterbored (i.e. recessed) to protect the crown on the barrel. Don't know if this makes any real difference or if it really offers much protection. The Government model has a polished chamber, but again, this does not appear to be anything more than a requirement for US Government orders that is included on all the Government, but not GC models. Look 'em both over and pick the one that seems right to you. Don't think either model is superior to the other in any but personal preference.
I am thinking about getting into shooting a falling plate style competion with my MKII pistol. The thing is there is 2 types of contest : Iron site and ANy Site. I want to use a scope for the "Any Site" match. A guy told me about a scope mount for the MKII that was basically a grip? Does anyone know a web address for these and any scope reconedations?
I forgot to mention That I need to be able to use both Iron sites and Scope from the same gun on the same day to be able to shoot in both matches with the same gun.
Why not just get a 2nd matching Ruger and shoot one iron sights and the other from a "real" mounted scope? One can't have enough Rugers if placing one's self in such a position of requiring versatility in their shootin' irons :>!
The mount you are referring to is made by Aimtech. I personally don'care for this mount. It attaches to the pistol by replacing the right grip panel then comes up over the top of the pistol. I found it to be very uncomfortable. But then again, this is one of the few mounts that are see through for the Ruger pistols.
Aimtech's part number for this mount is APM-5 and it retails for $49.95. Here is a link to Aimtech's webpage.
Just a note: The Clark mount doesn't require removal of the reas sight, but the Volquartsen mount does. The Volquartsen mount sits back to the rear of the receiver and ends at the front of the receiver, where the Clark mount sits farther forward and extends a bit over the barrel. The Clark mount would be your best choice for this purpose.
Leupold makes a scope mount which simply replaces the right grip panel. It is made of aluminum and is painted black. The only modification I had to make was filing the back corner on the bottom of the grip which was quite uncomfortable until the corner was rounded off with a file and then smoothed with emery cloth. It works great. It is around $40, good luck.
I just shot a friends Mk I with an original Ruger muzzle brake. It was amazing. Muzzle flip was reduced by 99%. For all practical purposes, there was no muzzle flip. I had never thought about using a compensator or muzzle brake until now and now I want one. The Ruger model which appears to be very simple is obviously not available. Ruger stopped offering these around 1960 or so. My question is, how doe the Volquartsen V-comp compare? Has anyone shot both?
I got one on a 5 1/2 bull barrell 22/45. i tend not to shoot so much target as burn through clips with accuracy. I like to set up several clay pideons on a burm at the range. approx 25 yds away. and fire each time the dot drops on the pidgeon. it does reduce the flip, 99% i woundnt go near that far. But since i have put on my red dot i have taken it off till i can build up my shoulders again. it does way a bunch of weight. But i was gonna sell a perfectly good 22/45 just to get a mark II with a 6 7/8 barrell? I like my set up better.
First of all, hello all and thanks for such a great forum.
I'm in the market for a new .22 (I've been without one for a few years, and miss having one.) I've searched this forum and noticed quite a few questions from prospective buyers as to which pistol is "better", the MKII or Buckmark. I am a previous Buckmark owner, and my new .22 will be a MKII. For those who care, here is why:
I bought my Buckmark "standard" about 5 years ago. Paid about 200 bucks for it. In my opinion, it was (and still is) a damn good-looking pistol. My version had the duller blue/black finish with black grips. The current "plus" version with a deep blue finish and wood grips is gorgeous to look at, in my opinion. Anyway, the gun always worked perfectly. Very accurate. I even had an aimpoint sight mounted for a while. Would feed any ammo you could feed it. It was a good, reliable pistol.
So why am I not buying another one?
Well, there were a few things about the Buckmark that bothered me. For one, to disassemble the pistol, it required the use of allen wrenches. Not a big deal, but I like the fact that the Ruger field strips without the use of tools. The allen screws on the Buckmark, even having been extremely careful with the allen wrench, begin to look a little ragged over time.
Another peeve: The pistol uses a rubber buffer to cushion the slide hitting the lug on the frame at the end of its travel. I found that this buffer deteriorated to the point of needing replacement at about every 500 rounds. Not a big deal, as Browning sent be a handful of them at a negligible cost. However, it doesn't make me feel like I have a truly durable gun in my posession.
And lastly, there was something about the feel and quality of the Buckmark that left me wanting more. I don't know if it's the aluminum slide and the feel of roughness as it slid on the frame, or the sign of rather advanced wear (in my opinion) of where the exractor contacted the barrel. Whatever it was, the gun just didn't give me the feeling that I could shoot the quantity of ammunition I was going through at the time and still be able to hand it down to future generations without wearing out.
Again, the gun functioned flawlessly for me.
And now, the present: The other day, I was in my local gunshop where there was a new KMK-512 in blue. I asked to see it. The feel of this piece is just so substantial. The action felt smooth and solid. The whole gun just give the feeling that me, my kids and grandkids could not wear it out in our lifetimes. And at $279, it seems like an outstanding value.
So there, that's my story. If it can be of any help to someone agonizing between the Buckmark and the MKII, so be it.
Have owned 4 .22 semi-autos. 2 High Standard Sport Kings, one Buckmark, and one Ruger Mark II Slab side. The Sport Kings were superb. Solid feel, accurate, and never jammed with any ammo. My impression of the Buckmark I owned was similar to the gentleman above. I was greatly impressed with reliability and accuracy, much less impressed with quality of trigger. Unfortunately, it was stolen before I could make any durability assessments. My current target gun in the Ruger. I really like the availability of aftermarket options and have been pleased with Volquartsen trigger/sear/hammer kit, grips and extractor. After a fair amount of tinkering the gun has gone 300+ rounds without any malfunctions using CCI Blazer and Federal Gold Medal. Prior to this I had trouble after about 100 rounds, unless I completely cleaned the gun. Can't suggest too strongly getting the American Gunsmithing Institute Video on the Ruger. A wealth of info for about $30-35.
I’m responding to this post, just to share my personal experience/opinion.
I owned a 5 ½” bull-barelled, blued MKII a few years ago. I had bought new gun new, and despite regular cleaning, trying different types of ammo, different factory magazines, and keeping the gun lightly oiled, it gave me reliability problems at nearly every outing.
Let me say that I am NOT anti-Ruger, however. I have owned (and do) a handful of Ruger products over the years and they have all been great, but that one. I’m not sure if I just received a “lemon”, or what.
I am in the market for a .22 pistol again, and I really like what I am hearing about the Browning Buckmarks. My philosophy is that I’d rather have to do some minor preventive maintenance at home, in order to know I have a gun that is going to be both accurate and, more importantly, will always function at the range. So, I guess changing buffers, allen screws, and monitoring the extractor area for wear doesn’t bother me so much (since they are all replaceable parts)—as long at the gun WORKS.
I check back on this forum periodically, and the reports of some Ruger MkII’s jamming (particularly some stainless models), just brings back bad memories for me.
I do really like the concept of the 22/45, though, and I do feel Ruger generally offers a great product, especially for the price. So I’m still uncertain right now, what I will end up purchasing.
Has anyone out there had a BAD Buckmark experience from a NEW & maintained gun, (with regard to reliability
May I recommend not a pistol but a revolver, the Ruger New Model Single six in stainless steel 6" barrel. It's great for hunting since you have the option to use .22WMR for high powered shots.
I used to ridicule this pistol as being museum level. But I've been proven wrong and it's a joy to shoot.
Or you can also try the S&w Model 617 in 6". This a great target revolver and probably even more accurate than my Ruger 678.
If you still want a pistol, then get the S&W Model 41. This pistol is perhaps the best US made 22 target pistol. It's got great balance and the trigger is miles ahead of the Ruger.
I guess I'm one of the lucky people that don't have regular problems with stainless steel MkII's; A 5-1/2" SS bull barrel that's absolutely great just the way it is; A 6-7/8" gov bull barrel that's real good-(trigger is not as good as on the 5-1/2" MkII; and A 10" SS that (after having to send it back to Ruger one time- couldn't hit the side of a barn out of the box), shoots about a 1" group at 100yds. Been using mainly standard Winchester .22 ammo with great results!
I've purchased two MKII's this year, a 22/45 P512 and a MK512. Neither one has bobbled yet, they are both fine pistols. The 22/45 has a better trigger. If I wanted a light pistol to pack around back packing or just wandering around, it would be hard to beat the P-4, the 22/45 w/ 4" barrel.
I decided a while back that if I do get another Ruger .22 pistol, it WILL be the P-4. I like the compact bull design, with good accuracy potential and the 1911-style frame. Good to hear yours have been reliable. Thanks for the input. My faith may be restored, yet
yes i seen your ad and i should say buck mark is the best i own all of the pistols browning has in 22 i shoot 1200 round on sunday me and a bud a piece that is if you would like call at 3047528466 and i will tell you more thanks roger
I just bought a Buck Mark Miro Plus and after 200 rounds, it jams every 10 shots. I thought it just need braking in, but this appearly is not the case. I spoke to the gun dealer, who said to oil it heavily and see if it helps. He also said he would not stick me with it if it does not help.
Does a new semi need to be oiled on day one?
I plan on getting a Ruger also, but wanted the Buck Mark for the short bull barrel. (I wish the MK-4B was still available).
Most shooters I know as a general rule of thumb will detail strip and clean and oil all new guns. This is primarily to get out cosmoline which has a vaseline like consistency and protects the gun while its sitting around unsold. I'm told that this affects reliability, but can't really say for sure. It is conceivable that the gun has lots of cosmoline or other kind of protective grease that, combined with powder and lead residue, is causing the gun to jam. You didn't say what kind of malfunctions you are having, but another possibility is a bad magazine.
I was suprised to hear the new semi's need this treatment, but it has made the difference. I have ordered a Ruger now also. I suspect I will like both the Buck Mark and Ruger. (PS I love the MKII look)!!
Federal Bulk Ammo from Wally World occasionally "misfires" (firing pin strikes cartridge case and it does not fire) in my Ruger 22/45... Any suggestions...I've been told that the misfires are due to those specific cartridges not being sized properly...
I've been shooting a lot of these lately. I can only remember one that was a dud and that was last weekend. There might have been another or two at an earlier time with this ammo but I've come to expect this with .22 rimfire ammo once in a while. These incidences don't get my attention as long as it doesn't happen too often. It's possible that your Ruger could use a cleaning in the bolt and receiver tube area since .22 rimfire ammo can leave a lot of crud behind in a shorter ammount of time than centerfire calibers. I had to take my Mk.II apart earlier this week because enough crud had built up to cause the bolt to be kind of slugish in going back into battery. That might have caused that misfire in mine.
Jeff
I couldn't count how many boxes of Federal bulk ammo I've shot in my single-six. On occasion I'd have a round that wouldn't fire. I've had that experience sometimes in my NAA mini revolver too. I've only recently been able to shoot Federal bulk in my 22/45 (since installing a new extractor) and after shooting an entire box, there were no failures to fire. I always assumed my failures to fire in the revolvers were due to lapses in quality control. But no big deal since they're so cheap.
Often the reason for a DUD is the spray of primer to the bottom of the cartridge does not hit the entire circumference of the case. We're talking automated manufacturing equipment that make lots of bullets per minute. If the pin hits where there is no primer, no bang. Next time you get a DUD, reinsert it so the pin hits in a different spot. 60% chance you get a boom.
It is not just bulk ammo that causes problems. I have attempted to use two different lots of Federal Gold Medal ammo in my Ruger Mark II GC678 and have given up. Way too many mis-fires in timed and rapid stages to tolerate for premium ammo. Several other members of my club have had the same problem with various makes of high quality target pistols.
On the other hand, I almost never experience a problem with CCI Blazer ammo at $.79/box. Actually, I do have a problem with other shooters complaining that I should shoot more expensive ammo, even if it does not work any better!! Go figure.
Any suggestions, for educational reasons only and to further the understanding of the operation of the Ruber pistol, on how to increase the rate of fire of the Ruger 22/45?
Or club shoots Ruger 22/45's in night firing exercises (yes our Rugers have tritium night sights)and the rate of fire is important...We would like to approach "full auto" if at all possible.
You may want to read up some on the "timing" of a semi-auto pistol. What you are talking about doing is completely changing the timing. Essentially, redesigning the gun. It would involve experimenting with and changing the sear spring, the mainspring, the recoil spring, and the magazine springs. That could lead to other changes with the bolt design. You would also have to minimize the disconnector travel and rework the hammer/sear engagement surfaces.
A crisper lighter trigger and speed hammer (less mass, more acceleration) help the rate of fire, but unless you have a few extra guns lyin around to experiment with, I think I'd leave the timing of the gun as Bill Ruger designed it.
Now the cheap and dangerous way is to highly polish your sear. This can make the hammer slip and you can go into full auto. When this happens, you don't have control of the trigger after the first shot because the hammer is following the bolt forward and in theory, it should keep shooting until the mag is empty.
Mark P was correct about the timing. The markll has been made in select-fire conversions in the past. If you really want something "approaching the rate of full auto" then find a class 3 dealer in your area and buy the federal tax stamp (assuming you meet the background check qualificions?! ) and the conversion and avoid the safety and legality complications of a halfass homemade piece of junk.
In the USA, it is unlawful to create a new machine gun, or a machine pistol unless you are making them for Law Enforcement or the Military. Anything that wasn't registered before 1986 can not enter the National Registry. Only machine guns currently in the National Registry can be bought or sold. This is why a machine gun that cost $2000 20 years ago, will cost you $10,000-$12,000 today. You can't make or register anymore new ones.
Since the conversion would have been done pre-86' you would be able to by the stamp and gun today. This doesn't solve the problem for the 22/45, but mark ll's are sometimes available.
Pre-86 conversions would have had to been registered at that time. If it wasn't registered then, it can't be registered now. If you submit a BATF form 1, which is required to create a machine gun, it would be denied. http://www.titleii.com/forms.htm
You might be thinking about the 94 Assault Weapons Ban.Commonly referred to as Pre-ban, and Post-Ban.
I am talking about a mk ll conversion registered Pre-86 that can still be transfered today. Yes you cannot make machine guns for civilian use anymore, however you can still buy and transfer anything that was registered prior to May of 86'. A pre 86' mark ll conversion fitted with clark grips that approximate the feel of the govt 45 will be the closest you will get to a "full auto" 22/45. Unless you want to fool with a trigger gadget, however those that I have seen at the gun shows have been designed for rifles and rely on the recoil of the weapon and a loose grip on the rifle. The other alternative is the little yellow "full auto conversion" books that are sold for "educational purposes" only. I have seen these for the ruger mk ll but have not read them. I would imagine they are not worth the trouble or the price. As MarkP stated in the first response you will have to change the timing by reworking the springs and possibly the bolt. This is not safe and if you actually get fully automatic fire from the pistol not legal to possess as you have stated. Smitty should save himself the headaches by 1. Buy a pre-86' mark ll conversion. 2. Find a range near him that rents fully automatic weapons and get the full auto bug out of his system. Here in (central) Maryland there are two.
Is there anyone on this board that has the Burris brand scope mount on the MKII. The look to be one of the most solid mounts out there and not to expensive. Anyone have any opinions. Thank you!!!
I have one on a Target Model .. Have been on there for about 10 yrs. or more .. Easy to install,rock solid..Never had a problem with it.. Hope this helps.
I'm working on a little project. I have located a Tasco red dot sight, because it is small in size, to mount on my pistol. However, all I can find is the Weaver style bases. Wiegand's dovetail mount would be perfect, but is too big. Anyone have an idea what I could do. I'm not adverse to drilling/tapping the top of the receiver. I'm trying to keep the total package as compact as possible. Please respond to my e-mail with any suggestions. Thanks in advance!
I did some looking around this morning and came up with this. Hope it helps.Natchez Shooters Supply Products. Go to 22 pistol mounts- then Ruger MK I/II- then Rings, Bases & mounts- then B-Square. That's all the further I went because I think B-Square has what you're looking for....
Volquartsen mills slots in the reciever on their conversions for 3/8's or tip-off rings. This allows the rings to be mounted to the pistol without a scope base. I have two mark ll's done this way and this works well. Most gunsmiths should be able to do this for you or you can call Volquartsen themselves to see if they offer this service. P. S. I couldn't find your e-mail. ?.
Ken....If you respond to a question via e-mail rather than using the board then others that might have the same question won't benefit from replies.Also the advice you get may not be accurate or complete thus giving others a chance to weigh in....That's my take on it anyway..
well, i've been listening to some friends and just feeding a bunch of rounds through my new ruger. enough that i loosened up the front sight and had to loc-tite and refasten it to the barrel! i guess i'm pretty close to 700 rounds through it now... so i'm trying to find a round that the gun likes the most.
about my "review" : the "my Grouping rating" is a subjective rating of 1 to 10, with the Federal Classic ammo as a "control" group to provide consistency among range visits. and my overall rating is totally subjective... it is a measure of my desire to buy more. the (hp) denotes hollow point.
anyhow, i'll add to my database as i can find and shoot more brands of ammo...
=) chris
CCI Blazer $11/500
my Grouping rating: 8
my Overall rating: 7
my Comments: Slightly messy in bolt area (leaves "sand"), good round, seems consistent
CCI Std Velocity $5.39/100
my Grouping rating: 7
my Overall rating: 7
my Comments:
Federal Classic $13/500
my Grouping rating: 6
my Overall rating: 7
my Comments: Pretty messy in the bolt area, good round, but CCI Blazer a touch better
CCI Green Tag $11.79/100
my Grouping rating: 8
my Overall rating: 5
my Comments: Small hole punches; low rating due to price
CCI Mini Mag $who cares
my Grouping rating: 4
my Overall rating: 2
my Comments: Pretty wild strays
CCI Stinger (hp) 35gr $4.39/50
my Grouping rating: 2
my Overall rating: 2
my Comments: Exceedingly wild strays; awesome report and muzzle flash though -- almost like a 22mag
CCI Velocitor (hp) $3.99/40
my Grouping rating: 6
my Overall rating: 0
my Comments: Misfeeds as though bullets oversized; one fail to fire (out of 20 rds); punches crisp holes in target
I have had similar great results with Blazer ammo which sells in my location for $.79/box of 50. Other shooters in my club give me a bad time at matches while they burn up ammo costing several times as much as the Blazer ammo. I've done some pretty extensive testing using a rest and the Blazer ammo groups are as good or better as the other brands. I don't know how they manufacture this stuff and sell it for less than $.02 a round, but my advice is stock up!
I normally shoot CCI Blazers through my 22/45s but was at a place where some Winchester Wildcats were available for free and thought this was not a bad round for the price.
Getting ready to purchase a Red Dot but don't know what to look for in one, or reputation, cost trade offs etc. Would greatly appreciate your thoughts on this.
Mark
I prefer the Tasco PDP#3 30mm. Why? Hmmm, well I've had no problems with them, it's the first one I bought (I'm a creature of habit), and I like the rubber around the outside of the dial. However they are not currently being made (unless the new owners started production). So you may find a deal on one new. On another note by far the most popular Red dot for Bullseye is an Ultra Dot. I haven't heard any complaints about them. Check these out http://www.ultradotwest.com/index.html http://www.eabco.com/sale7.html
I have a few. Hopefully, you are in a location where you can go to the store and look at and touch them. Red dots are not created equal. I would say if you want it for precise shooting (aim small-miss small) go with a small dot.
1. Pro45, 25 mm, By Oakshore Electronics, cost $160.00 this sight is about 10 years old and has the battery pack on the outside of the tube. I think having the battery pak on the outside throws the balance off. Looks funky anyway. And the red dot is more like a line then a dot. No lens covers supplied.
2. PROpoint plus 3, PDP3CMP, 33 mm, Tasco, cost $120.00 this sight is about 11 months old, the battery pak is in the tube* much nicer for balance and looks, the dot is round. However, it is a 10 moa (covers 10 inches at 100 yards). I like a smaller dot. This one would be ok for steel plates or speed. It did come with lens covers.
3. PROpoint 5, PDPSPL, 35 mm, Tasco, cost $89.00 this
sight is 10 months old, the battery in the tube*. it has 4 switchable dot sizes 3, 5, 10, 15 moa. All dots are round, I only use the smallest dot as the point of aim changes with the dot size. My bullseye scores improved using the same scope with the smaller dot (yes, I did sight it in with both dot sizes). I am very happy with this sight. It did come with lens covers.
4. Ultra Dot, 30 mm, Ultra Dot, cost $118.00, I just got this site tonight, 4 moa, battery is in the tube*, dot is round, holding it up next to my PROpoint5, there seems to be more glare from back lighting on the lens of the Ultradot. No lens covers supplied.
I have the PROpoint 5 mounted on my Ruger, 22/45. I mounted the UltraDot on my S&W mod 41. I'll have to shoot it to see how I like it.
Notes:
* When I said the battery is in the tube. It is really part of the brightness control knob.
Bushnell bought the Tasco trade name and is comeing out with a new product line.Provisions have been made for warranty work on existing Tasco products but from what I've heard there's a service charge and it's none too cheap.The warranty thing is hear-say and admittedly not the best source of information. If a good warranty is important to you than this is something you might want to consider.On a side note..It makes me wonder when a company like Tasco goes under....Good rep. good prices, been around since dirt.
I've heard that the binocular and telescope portion of the business did them in. And that the scopes have remained a good value. Perhaps that is why they have been picked up by another scope manufacturer with a reputation for low to mid-line quality scopes.
Well, I sighted it in today. I am happy with it. Met an old friend my S&W Mod 41. Havent shot it in almost a year. Man that gun has always felt good in my hand. I think I'll be shooting it more often, now that it's wearing an UltraDot. And to think, if they only supplied lens covers. I wouldnt have anything to complain about.
There must be lots of aftermarket lens covers that work on your sight. Lens Covers came on my BSA and the don't stay on worth a darn!
Good luck and good shooting,
John
I just got an ultradot 4. It was more expensive ($164) but I liked it because you can adjust dot size and dot brightness. Not knowing exactly what I wanted, or what I wanted it for (just plinking at different ranges, inside and outside), this was ideal. Also it seemed to be among the top choices of the bulls eye shooters (although at the present time I don't think I will be messing with that just yet).
This is my first red dot (aside from the $13 one on my paint ball gun) so I don't have anything to compare it to, but I like it.
and I'll have to check the POI for the different dot sizes, I did not check that.
I would be interested to know about the point of aim changes. You know moved from the center of the dot to the top/bottom of the dot. Thats about what my PROpoint 5 was doing. I did think about getting the UD4 but, chose not to because I prefer the smallest dot even when I was outdoors shooting silhouette at 100 yards.
I don't think any of the UltraDots come with Lens Covers. The do make them for the UltraDot. As I recall, they make flip up ones for the 1" and an universal bungee one. They are around 10 bucks. I picked up some of the mini rubber bungee ones in a bin at the gun show for $4.
My choice was the Ultra Dot 30mm. The 1 inch tube would work alright for Bullseye, but I shoot plates from time to time and the 30mm seemed the way to go for quicker target acquisition. Bullseye.com sez it all.
Does anyone know if it is difficult to change the barrel on a ruger 22, doe sit require machine work or is it a simple thread in barrel. Any help would be appreciated.
The Mk.1/2 Bbl. is tightly screwed on and cannot be removed without the use of a lathe. Both Randy at CPC and Clark's Custom can remove and replace your Bbl. Or, you can try the Volquarsten LLV Bbl/reciever combo.Hope this is of help. Brad
Ya'll workn on your wanta list for the fat guy?I just got my C&R FFL and am going to ask the old elf, and the feds, for a class 3 FFL. [full auto]So what's your hearts desire this year???
Aaaah, I've been thinking about a case feeder for my XL650. And I've been itching to try out a Hammerli SP20. Wow, anybody seen that new US Pistol Team Kimber?
What a slick looking gun!
I was looking at one of these a few months ago but got a Stainless Target instead. The USA Team Match has an external extractor......Kimber's first foray into this design and there seem to be a growing number of posts on the 1911 Forum of problems with tuning them.
So, we can now add Rod as a potential source for fun toys........hmm, is a Thompson .45 submachine gun a C&R? I always wanted to lean out of a '32 Ford Phaeton firing one of those. Maybe next Valentine's day.
Thompson, submachineguns including all models , prototypes and variations....That's right out of the book........ :-)I realy want to start with some kind of .22 auto.. .45 ammo = $$$
Since Rod can't get me the Thompson or the '32 Ford, I think I need to get a loading press. I'm going through 2 cases of .45 ACP a month now with two 1911's. With as much as I've spent, I'm expecting to at least get a Christmas Card from the AMMOMAN website. I'm looking at the Dillon Square Deal B progressive press. Anyone got any suggestions?
Mark, it depends on how much and how fast you need it too be. My requirements were this: I knew I wanted it to be fast, I definately knew I would not have the time for anything other than progressive. And I wanted it to be easy! I just bought a Xl650 and I love it, even without the casefeeder (which I plan to get later). The savings is unequal to any ammo off the shelf, and it's more accurate than anything I've ever bought! If you can go a little slower the 550 or Square deal are both good deals. One of the few complaints a friend has about his Square deal is the size of the opening's around the shell plate, he say's it is a little tuff to get bigger hands in there.
I would be really really disappointed in you if you haven't been saving your brass. Two cases of factory 45 a month? I shoot that every month in reolads and its still expensive.
IMO, Dilon is the way to go: service and warranyt can't be beat. It is even better than Ruger's, and that's saying a lot!
I have a 550B and load 45, 223 and 30-06 with it. I find it to be very fast and reliable. For example just this evening, I converted the press from 223 to 45 and loaded 300 rounds for tomorrow in about 30 minutes. That means I swapped everything including the primer feed. I've done a case of 45 in two hours.
One thing I like about the 550 over the 650 is the 550 is not auto indexing. That means I can stop and check in the middle of the process. If something goes wrong, you can easily fix it without messing up the whole sequence (auto inxexing means the case is advanced automatically with each handle pull, manual is done by hand, but as your hand is already there to set the bullet, I don't see any economy of motion).
As attractive the price of the SDB is, I can't recommend it as you will not be able to use any die but Dillon's. The 550 and 650 use the standard dies so you can mix and match. For the 45, you really want to use the Lee Factory Resizing Die ('bout $15).
My favorite 45 load (today) is 5.2gr of WST behind a West Coast Bullet 200gr RN (TMJ) and WinLP loaded to 1.250COL.
I wouldn't ever want to disappoint you larry. I have 7 cases of once fired American Eagle .45 brass in my closet. I left a lot on the floor before I began to think about reloading.
I was thinking of the Square Deal because the .45 is the only thing I'll reload and if I could do 300 an hour I'd be happy (I know, that will change). The 650 with the electric case feeder is very nice but its more than I need. Maybe in a few years. I've never read anyone say anything bad about the Sq D other than if you have big hands, its hard to use station 3. I don't think it will be a problem for me.
I had the same problem. I may have one of the smallest reloading rooms anywhere! Instead of going to the garage, which I did not want to do, I converted my cellar area under my stairs into a very nice reloading room. It's probably a 4'x 4'5" area, with only a 5'5" ceiling (which means I have to sit but I prefer loading while sitting anyway). With some 2x4's and 3/4 inch laminated shelving I now have a nice, VERY sturdy bench. And it also serves as storage of my guns and safe. One other plus is I'm able to lock the entire room from curious hands.
I am very disapointed that you left all that brass on the range floor before you saw the light. Sending me a couple thousand empty cases is your pennence.
Please give thought to the 550 over the SDB. You never know, you may decide that you HAVE to buy a .223 and a .308 with all the money you'll save reloading for the 45. Or, you may start collecting orphan brass and decide that its a shame to waste perfectly good brass and need a gun to fit...
I stated just like you are. Only wanting to load for 45 and strongly considering the SDB. But I was put off by the proprietary nature of the SDB's dies.
I really enjoyed loading for the pistol and decided to try the deer gun for yucks, buying the Dillon plates and Redding dies. My gun that shot 2-3 MOA with factory loads shoots 1/2 minute with my loads. And after a bit of work, 223 will put 10 rounds in a hole that is hidden by a dime. THAT is fun! That is why I love to reload (don't let anyone lie to you. you will not save money, you'll just shoot a lot more and better).
You can fix this with a Chamber Ironing Tool from Brownells. They are somewhere around 20 dollars. Or, any gun repair center could fix it. You don't need a specialized gunsmith for this. I guess you could call Ruger and say the pin was real loose since you got the gun and it fell out. (You should check your firing pin spring (rebound spring) since that is what tensions that pin.) The downside of sending it back to Ruger is the turnaround time could be long.
I had firing pin damage to one of my rugers and bought the Brownell tool. Took this to a gunsmith and he removed the ding with the tool and some polishing. Cost twenty bucks, works like new.
after I've fired over 500 rounds of bulk-grade 22LR ammunition through my MKII, it has a thick layer of fouling coating every single inner nook and cranny.
the gun takes long enough to clean with the upper receiver removed from the frame, yet I was told not to remove it very often, else its fit with the frame would become loose and have some play when the gun was fully reassembled.
My primary concern with not cleaning the receiver regularly is the amount of fine scuffs appearing on the bolt, they sort of resemble jeweling, but aren't. I don't want to put any excess wear or strain on this gun, as it's only about 5 days new.
Have any of you experienced any problems with looseness between the receiver and frame? If so, how long did it take for it to develop? Your opinions and answers are appreciated!
Put in a trigger shield from ontargetguns.com and it keeps the trigger components clean. The rest of the gun you can clean by just taking out the bolt. You can clean the bolt, chamber area and barrel without removing the barrel from the gun. Take a look at the web site, you'll see what I mean...
Installed one on my Mark II two weeks ago. Easy installation and it appears to do exactly as advertised in keeping all the residue (AKA crud) out of the trigger area. Service from OnTarget remains best in the industry.
I am a second-generation Ruger gun owner. My dad is the owner of a Ruger mark one that has been shot and cleaned so many times that the rifling is almost gone. But the fit between the frame and the reciver is still so tight that we have to use a brass hammer to seperat them for cleaning. But if it ever did start to become loose I think I would be able to retighten the fit between the frame and the reciver by squeezing the frame in the area around the front lug.
I'm saving for a Volquartsen conversion to be done this winter. I've shot their guns in the past but this was before they made the TL 2000 sight. Does anyone have experience comparing this sight to the Bo-Mar and the Millet sights used in Bullseye?
I've both; first the V-Sight and it was OK, but loose in the rear dovetail. Then I ordered a Bo-Mar and installed it myself; It's great (in my opinion). Had to do a little extra work in grinding down the top of the rear pin (bolt stop normally protruding up thru the top of the receiver), but this sets the rear sight blade as far to the rear as possible.
If you look closly at some of the early photos of Volquartsen's custom 22 Ruger pistols in their catalog, you'll see the Bo-Mar rear sight installed and noted as an option.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Carlos
i got my 22/45 back together thanks to the diagram some one told me where to find but now i cant get the pin in that holds the barrel to the frame anyhelp would help thanks
Pull the mainspring housing and pin out. Look up into the pistol to see the hammer with the strut hanging from it. Use a pencil or something to push the hammer up, as far as it will go. The strut should be above the pin in the frame so be careful it doesn't get caught behind it. Now push the mainspring housing pin in. Now pull the trigger and hold the barrel up. The strut should go into the top of the mainspring housing. With the barrel up, close the housing. You should feel tension before you close the latch.
Here is yzguy's page with pictures and instructions.
Are you taling about getting the bolt stop pin all the way up thru the barrel assembly?If so then this is a common problem with new guns. Hell mine's still tight.Make sure the receiver and barrel assemblies are lined up properly. The rear of the barrel should be a little over the rear of the receiver. You may have to nudge the pin a little. I use the heel of the palm of my hand to help it along. I've read some use a small mallet.Sorry if I'm off base with your question.
