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New Slabside. Any suggestions?
by Radar
It is finally ordered and I should be able to pick it up on Monday. I am getting the KMK678GC Slabside. I also ordered the OnTarget Trigger Shield and the Volquartsen "Exact Edge" extractor. I thought the bore snake seemed like a good idea, so I picked up one of those as well.
When I get the gun, the first thing I plan to do is field strip it ( using this link: http://www.1bad69.com/ruger/field_strip.htm as a guide) and use break cleaner (non-chlorinated) to get rid of the packing grease.
(Ok, ok, you caught me, the first thing I am going to do is drool.)
After using the break cleaner, I will lube it appropriately.
While it is stripped I will install the trigger shield (if it has arrived yet). I haven't decided whether to install the extractor right off, or try out the stock one first, just to see what the difference is.
When I get out to shoot it, I will shoot a brick or two of high velocity rounds, probably Federal Lightnings, to help break in the gun.
I was wondering about frequently cleaning the bore during the break in process, but from the thread a few days ago, the consensus seems to be that it is not that important on a rimfire pistol.
Oh, yeah... I will continue my project of reading through this forum from the beginning. Have been learning a lot af great info.
Am I forgetting anything? Does anybody have any further tips for an owner of a new Mark II?
I'd save the extractor until the stovepipes start appearing.
If the receiver is tight to the frame, instead of tapping on the front of the frame with a rubber, nylon, leather or wood mallet, I like to put my thumb through the trigger guard, wrap my fingers around the barrel and tap on the rear of the bolt very lightly until it separates.
Only thing I'd add is to watch for leading when new. If the bore is rough, you may need to run that bore snake or jag down the pipe every box or two. You want the bullets to polish the bore and heavy leading will not allow that to happen.
But the most important thing is to enjoy your new gun: it is a keeper!
That's correct. New bores are sometimes (IME, usually) rough and can collect lead or copper. Don't be surprised if you see small silver slivers on the bore snake; this is lead which would interfere with the proper break in of a barrel (bullet burnishing the rough spots). You know your barrel is properly broken in when it stays clean.
I've been browsing the forum here which is a good way to spend LOTS of spare time. Pity it can't be searched but that egg's already been fried. Anyway, I saw some plans for making a blast shield for the 22/45 using a coke can.
I don't know how this will work but I made one using an aluminum pie plate. Obviously, the question is how long it will hold out. I shot 50 rounds today with it and it seems fine, but I know it will probably fail at some point.
Still, I may make another one with a pie plate. What I did was to make a paper pattern, using the dimensions given on the forum (.8 X 2 inches) Then I was able to draw the barrel hook and cut it out. When I cut everything else out to make it look a lot like a tennis racket, I was able to use the pattern on the pie plate, using scissors to cut it out.
Biggest advantage is easy cutting. Biggest disadvantage I now see is questionable durability. But, hey, if it lasts 500 rounds, it doesn't take but 5 minutes to make another.
I got a reply from Bill at on-target, and he tells me that a 22/45 trigger shield is in the works, but the cramped space under the reciever is hindering his progress. I saw the site you refered to, but it didn't seem clear.
I am not sure which directions you saw. You said you saw the same one as SK73, "tennis racket". That was the first time I posted it and without a picture it was the best way I could discribe the way it looked.
Please take a look at these new instructions and picture. And if I can be of any help please let me know.
Blast Shield for 22/45 and Mark II:
Purpose: Keeps the plunger area clean allowing for a consistent trigger pull.
1. Field strip weapon.
2. Using your favorite beverage can. Cut a strip .8” wide by 2.5” long.
3. Cut a whole the same size as the barrel hook on the grip frame approximately .5” from one end.
4. Lay the strip in the gun over the barrel hook.
5. Make an angled cut right behind the arm on the disconnector that rests on the trigger plunger/spring approximately .25” or so it will clear the disconnector.
6. Make a similar cut on the other side, so it will clear the bolt release.
7. Place the small end in the trigger hole behind trigger on both 22/45’s and Mark II’s.
8. Insert magazine and pull trigger ensure there is no binding.
9. Assemble weapon as normal.
10. Trim end behind trigger so approximately .25” is visible.
I put 870 rounds through my gun today (KMK678GC) on it's second outing. That brings it to a grand total of 1095 rounds fired, all Federal Lightnings. Absolutely no ejection problems except once or twice, I could not eject a live round and had to get out the screw driver.
Would the exact edge extractor fix the live round extraction problem?
Today was an all day plink fest with targets including a pumpkin, soda cans, golf balls at 50', and an 8" diameter cookie tin at 120 yards. Fun, fun, fun!!! Oh yeah, some paper targets as well.
I was able to get my windage zeroed properly now that I was moving the sight the right direction.
Thanks for all of the help everybody. I am quite happy with this gun.
Please use care when using a screwdriver to remove live rounds stuck in the chamber. It is possible, albeit very unlikely that you could crush the rim and fire the round. I keep a brass rod in my range bag so I can clear bore obstructions from the muzzle end (and do that very slowly and carefully with live rounds).
Doubtful that a new extractor would eject these rounds. It sounds like yours is working just fine and we don't know why and how tight the round was stuck in the chamber.
This one shoots extremly well with all types of name brand ammo. It shoots 3/4" groups at 50 yards under less than ideal conditions. I can't remember it ever jamming. The empty cases are ejected with a little to much authority in spite of heavy duty recoil spring. I think this might be do to the fact that I have the extracter holding the case very firmly in place. I find this last goes a long way in correcting stove pipe type jams. Also, maybe because extra barrel length has chance to build more pressure sending bolt/spent cartridge to rear at higher speed.
But, isnt the bolt racker a little close to your face when shooting? Or, is it stationary while firing? (I'm thinking eye relief on scope is about 2-3 inches)
Did you make it? I have seen them available for the 1911.
Very nice. I also wanted to get one of the carbine conversions for my Govt 1911 but out here in the People's Republik, I can buy one (nail order) but it is illegal to mount the frame to it. It then apparently falls under the Calif. Assault Weapons statues since it is a centerfire rifle with a handgrip. But, a rimfire doesn't fall under that. Is this available commercially?
They are available but it takes a lot of time and money to do it the way this one was done. Rebarreling the Ruger receiver isn't so bad but welding the stainless tube on the rear of it with precision is more difficult. The welding is necessary to bring the overall length to the unshortenable, legal minimum. All the other parts, and there is a variety from which to choose, including the woodwork, are easy to fabricate.
I've been talking to a popular Ruger aftermarket manufacturer about making the receiver long enough to begin with so the welding can be avoided. This, If he will do it, will bring the price way down. The idea, of course, is for the Markll owner to be able to remove the grip frame from his pistol and insert it in the rifle receiver.
Are they salable? Let me know what you think.
I can't say if they will sell without knowing a price. I would say that there could be a tremendous demand for a conversion unit that would not require any modification to the Mark 2. The price IMHO would have to be $200 or less for them to sell widely. The tradeoff will be.......get this or a 10/22 for plinking and fun. Keep us informed please.
It could not be done for $200.00. Between the barrel, (this one has air gauged Douglas match barrel although a barrel of this quality isn't necessary) the receiver and the rest of the hardware, it cost more than that to make. I don't think it would ever sell "widley" but then when I think of the huge amounts of money people spend on all the after market stuff and work on the Markll and the 10/22, I can't help but to think that a lot of them could be sold for similar amounts. Think of the number of people who would love to own a Mark ll rifle.
Obviously those types of modifications will require work on the receiver. With that in mind, I would think that the best way to offer your mods would be to sell the complete rifle. $700-800 or more would not be out of the question for a custom rifle like that. Actually I would think more than that, but then you would need to include a test target -- say sub .5" (or better) 5 shot groups at 50 yards. You could also give a discount for supplying the pistol, maybe $200. Again, this is for a fully customized rifle. Sheesh, the factory Browning Buckmark rifles cost more than $500.
This would compete with the 10/22's. Consider that a completely Custom Clark 10/22 with all the bells and whistles and a guaranteed accuracy of 1" at 100yds goes for about $600.
A good 10/22 with a target barrel can be had for less than $300.
I got out to the range and shot my new KMK678GC today. Nice. I like it.
I shot it completely stock for a base line first. I have about 6-8 failure to fires or jams where the bullet gets caught on the feed ramp. Or it went into the chamber at too high of an angle and jammed. All of those happene in about the first 5 clips. I shot another 125 rounds with no jams of any kind, so I am assuming those were break in problems that got worked out. All 225 roungs were Federal Lightning.
After I shot 100 rounds, I put in the trigger shield. I have read that some people have had feeding problems after they installed the shield, but I didn't have any problems like that.
I thought I was having a problem with my sight, but only now, as I am thinking about it, I realized that I was adjusting the sight the wromg way. Guess I was thinking of archery where you adjust the front sight instead of the rear sight.
In any case, I was grouping about 2.5" to the left, and my rear sight was already all of the way to the left. I was wondering what was wrong with the stupid thing. But you move the rear sight the direction you want to move your group, right? So I need to move the sight right?
The other problem is the failure to extract live rounds thing. But now that I think about it, those were on those failure to fires. The lead probably got deformed, jamming the bullet in the chamber, preventing the chamber from closing completely and making it difficult to remove. There was no problem extracting live rounds that fed properly.
I am going shooting again on Friday and will see if any of the problems crop up again.
Radar, from what I have learned at this forum, as well as my own experience, everything you mentioned is normal. The only up-coming problem I forsee is the need for a new and better extractor, but I see your next post addresses that. (My extractor is indeed chipped after aprox. 2000 rounds, new one in the mail)
The cool thing about our guns is that they get better the more you shoot em, and they stay that way for decades (Ruger quality for the money). I met another guy with a Ruger at the range, and we shot against each other, and talked about our guns for over an hour. I learned alot. Within 1000 rounds, almost all of your problems will be eliminated. For good plinking ammo, I recommend the Federal bulk hollow points (fairly clean, with fewer misfires), for target, Wolf, of Federal Classics (I actually shot a sub 1/4 inch group with these this week, my best ever)
Yes, on your rear sight, to move your POI right, move your rear sight blade to the right. I would suggest you not be too stingy in the number of clicks until you zero in. Try to keep moving it right until you shoot too far right (I think I used 4 clicks at a time until I had it bracketed.) Then move it back 1 click at a time. Its best to do this from a rest or sandbag. The long barrel of the Govt Comp makes this real easy.
Of course soon you will want and get an UltraDot so it won't really matter.
Now that I have learned to field strip my KMK678GC, and I have thoroughly degreased it with brake cleaner, the next step is lubing. Since the wrong manual was included with my gun (the correct manual is in the mail from Ruger) I could use some advice.
I looked back through the forum and found advice that says to oil the top of the bolt, the sear, and the face of the hammer. But I am wondering about the rest of the stuff in the frame, like the trigger and such. do all of the pivot points need some lube?
Do not lube the sear! The sear requires friction for it to function properly; you run the risk of going full-auto if it loses this friction.
With one exception, I like to keep the frame dry as there are no stressed moving parts and oil will only attract grit. I've tried dry lubes on the pivots and other frame parts with poor results.
What I lube:
One drop between the frame and disconnector. That's the long bar that runs from the trigger assy to the rear of the frame. Pull the trigger several times to work it in. Since this will affect the trigger feel, I suggest you try it both dry and wet and see what feels best for you. Make sure you clean this if your trigger starts feeling gritty: blasting with brake cleaner works for me.
One drop near the front of the recoil spring assy. It will get worked in when you rack the action a couple times after assy.
One big drop on the bolt. Wipe it around so the entire bolt gets some lube.
Reassemble and rack the action several times to work the oil around.
That's it. Since your gun is new, it's OK to give it a bit more lube to help float off any of the tiny bits of metal that work free during the break in process. This is especially true on the bolt. However, this extra lube may cause extraction/ejection problems. If this happens, just grin and bear it until things settle down.
Since I break the gun down and detail clean only after several bricks (new guns should be cleaned frequently until broken in), I use a q-tip in the chamber to clear out the crud after every shooting session, then lock the bolt back and put a drop on the recoil rod and a small drop on both sides of the bolt. Work the action a couple times to spread the oil and wipe down the gun.
Since you have a new gun I would suggest that you eyeball all the parts well when you clean. If you notice wear on any then that would be an indiction lube is needed as all guns don't wear exactly the same.Case in point. I have three AK's and each have their own spots that need special attention. I know your Ruger isn't an AK but you get he idea.Now go out and show those punpkins who's boss.....
Basically the same as everyone else has said. The only thing I can think to add is lubing on the outside. After a shooting session I wipe down the outside frame and barrel with an oily patch, mainly to get sweat off of it. Then you can actually wipe it down again with a dry rag to take off all the excess. The key is just a light coaitng. Especially a blued gun. My hands tend to sweat sometimes so I have to keep the external clean to avoid rust.
I feel like such a newby! Maybe because I am, but I need help.
I just picked up my gun, a KMK678GC, and tried to field strip it. I am having a problem, to put it mildly.
I managed to swing out the main spring housing and dropped the little button behind the sight, but only about 1/4". It can not get it to go any farther down than that.
I then attempted to re-assemble. I put the main spring housing back into place and attempted to slide the bolt back, but it only came back about 3/4". It also appears like the bolt does not close comletely. Maybe staying about 1/16" open.
Yes, there is one thing that I did that wasn't in accordance with the instructions found at http://www.1bad69.com/ruger/field_strip.htm . There seems to be some controversy about whether it really is safe to dry fire this gun or not. So, just to be on the safe side, I placed a spent case in the chamber and then pulled the trigger. Now, I can't quite pull the bolt back far enough to get the case out. Is that my problem? Is the case preventing the firing pin from traveling far enough forward to pull the main spring housing out?
Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Radar.
P.S. The manual that came with the gun is absolutely no help, since it is for the P-Series guns instead of the Mark II!
the dangly bit that hangs off of the hammer got stuck on the pin in the back strap of the gun. That caused the bolt to get stuck on the hammer, which is what caused my problem.
Got it all field stripped now, but it is time for bed. I will degrease it and re-assemble tomorrow.
There is no controversy about dry firing a Mark 2 as far as Ruger is concerned. The only concern is by people who haven't looked at their gun. Its fine to use an empty shell as a snap cap, its just unnecessary since the firing pin can not hit the breech face PROVIDED the firing pin stop pin is in place.
That little dangly thing was your hammer plunger. It also has a tendency to get stuck behind that frame pin high in the mainspring housing recess.
Take it slow until you get used to things. But most of all, have fun shooting it.
So is there anything you would add to the instructions for others?? That little hammer strut is the cause of more problems!! You just have to understand where it is supposed to go and keep it out of your way. But all that is kinda hard to explain.
I think you've done a remarkable job detailing the correct way to dis- and re-assemble the Mk II. Thank you!
To help those of us who are guilty of not always reading the friggin' manual (myself included), it may be helpful to add a "this is why its not going back together right" section (perhaps just after the quick summary section). This could something as simple as text links that reference bookmarks in the detailed instructions, or as elaborate as a separate troubleshooting page.
I'm pretty sure Radar will join me in the recommendation that getting the hammer strut in the mainspring assy. pocket gets top billing in reassembly troubleshooting.
Yes, I agree a troubleshooting section, or even sentences like "If the bolt will not pull back more than 1/2" , then the hammer strut is probably catching on the pin..." and then instructions on how to fix it.
I might add that there are good instructions on how to get the hammer strut in the right place at the end of the instructions. And while I had read that part before, I didn't put two and two together until after I had figured out the problem.
I didn't have any problems other than that.
Thanks again for the detailed guide. The pictures really help.
Maybe I'll add a problem/solution table at the bottom... That is when I get some time!! (so many toys, so little time)
email me if you have had a specific problem.
so far I guess I have the hammer strut keeping the main spring housing from coming down/going up, and ligning up the hammer strut with the cup.
One that I found frustrating for a while until I looked is trying to close the mainspring housing and the pin that goes into the receiver keeps coming out. This is due to the hammer not being fully forward and the mainspring housing hits it when you try to close it. The solution is to stick something in there (a pencil is usually handy) and push the hammer forward.
Not that you will find any new amazing information in it, but you should get a manual for the Mark2. Call Ruger at 928-778-6555 and tell them you got the wrong manual with your gun. I don't think they will ask, but have the serial number of your gun with you when you call. They will send you one.
ok folks heres my idea.bull or tapered blank 14" long 9havent made up mind on blank yet).the blank i can get and chamber etc but who does threading?i want to turn my mk1 into a serious sillywet pistol for slamming little iron rams,right now she sports the same bushnell 1.3 phantom on top with the almost 5" taper barrel.i do ok at 50 feet on paper with a 3/8" group but i need more at longer range.who does the cheapest barrel threading service out theyre so i can get a blank cut/ramp made so i can install it on this mk1 frame and headspace?,i looked allover hell on the net for a used 10" bull instead to make life easier,no such luck unless someone knows some who knows someone who has one to get rid of thats willing to sell me it...the quest continues,nope i aint done carving the herret target grips yet either,getting theyre tho'......
My best suggestion is to check with Randy at Conneticut precision chambering. He is a sponsor at the web site rimfirecentral.com. He has a link to his site there. Check it out and see what he has to say. Brad
solved the problem,my buds goin ta buy my pistol and i've found a 10 blued bull barrelled mk2 for 195$.id still like ta make a few long barreled ones tho and a carbine to boot.
I think i am going thru withdrawl...as i drive down our street i picture a little dancing red dot on every pumpkin i see and think, "I could hit that easily".
I have to block out some range time this weekend before i go batty.
i usually take my 30-06 and a mess a watermelons,some 5 gallon tin jugs filled with red jello,some milk jugs with some more jello or water.and a lot of ammo,lots of ammo.i kill a watermelon dead at 600 yards i tell ya!yeah watermelons are dangerous an pumpkins to,specially punkins.can ya tell im overdue for a trip to the pits yet???
Hi guys... I'm at a loss - just bought a box of Winchester Laser hi velocity ammo, but afterwards was told by another shopkeeper that it wouldn't be safe to use in my MK-512. Too hard on the gun, he said. So, my question is: Has anybody shot Laser - and how did your gun react?
Behind all the advertising hype by ammunition makers, is the legal reality that, unless the box has a specific warning, all ammo needs to be safe in any gun in good condition. That's why centerfire shooters spend so much time working up loads that beat factory ballistics. So the ammo will not damage your Mark II any more than any other brand of high speed ammo. Of course, copper coated bullets are harder on barrels than pain lead and high velocity ammo has a slightly greater wear factor than standard, but the effects are slight and will take a long time to be noticed unless you are a very good competitive target shooter.
I'm getting a new ruger KP 512 this weekend and I was wondering if anyone had any recomendations on breaking the gun in, especially the barrel. I've read that with rifles anyhow you're supposed to clean the barrel after every shot for the first 10 shots, then after every 3 shots for the next 30. Anyone heard about that and if so is this recomended for pistol barrels as well? Also does anyone have any ammo reccomendations for reliability and accuracy? Thanks!
I would recommend the exact edge extractor and trigger shield from www.ontargetguns.com .
I did not do any kind of break in (other than initial disassembly and lube). And so far the only problem I have had is one FTE with the stock extractor....
Rifle barrels need to go through that conditioning to smooth the rifling and "change the chemistry" of the exposed barrel material to avoid permanent fouling. The pressures and velocities in a rifle barrel is much more destructive than in a pistol barrel especially with powerful centerfire ammo. For your pistol, I would recommend you shoot lead bullets, not copper, and shoot at least 300 rounds before you clean the barrel. The lead is a little easier on the barrel, easy to clean, and is good to help smooth things out without getting copper streaks on the sharp rifling edges. I would also suggest you field strip the gun when you get it home and degrease it and relube it before you shoot it. But then again that is just my opinion.
Is it possible to knock any metal shavings into the barrel as you break in the gun? As you smooth out any residual burrs on the various parts?
I read a post from long ago on this forum (can't find it again, thought I had bookmarked it) that recomended running a patch throught the barrel after every shot for the first 50 shots. And then after every second shot for the next 20. I had the impression that this was to prevent scratching the barrel by firing it with foreign material in the barrel.
Is there anything to this? Or did I read between the lines, add 2+2 and come up with 3?
Sounds a bit excessive (to say the least). I don't know what the official Ruger position is, but I can tell you that in the manual for my .45, it says for break-in, "shoot 400-500 rounds cleaning and lubricating the gun every 100-150 rounds." I would think you could go a bit longer with .22.
Clean it before you shoot it for first time, clean it after a hundred rounds, put in a trigger shield, there's plans for a homemade one by a guy named Sumshooter on this site that works great and is simple to do, don't buy too many doodads, save your money for ammo. Shoot the trigger you have for a couple of hundred rounds before you think you need to replace it ...........Have fun with your new toy, Joe
I think this is the post by Sumshooter you are talking about. Here is a suggestion for all us addicted types, when you scan the postings and see something like this posting with instructions on a how-to, print it and put it in a binder. You never know when you will need it in the future.
From June of this year by Sumshooter
Blast Shield for 22/45 and Mark II:
Purpose: Keeps the plunger area clean allowing for a consistent trigger pull.
1. Field strip weapon.
2. Using your favorite beverage can. Cut a strip .8” wide by 2.5” long.
3. Cut a whole the same size as the barrel hook on the grip frame approximately .5” from one end.
4. Lay the strip in the gun over the barrel hook.
5. Make an angled cut right behind the arm on the disconnector that rests on the trigger plunger/spring approximately .25” so it will clear the disconnector.
6. Make a similar cut on the other side, so it will clear the bolt release.
7. Place the small end in the trigger hole behind trigger on both 22/45’s and Mark II’s.
8. Insert magazine and pull trigger ensure there is no binding.
9. Assemble weapon as normal.
10. Trim end behind trigger so approximately .25” is visible.
Time to have a brew and get the snips out. Thanks again to all. Does a domestic or imported beer can work the best?? That should start a whole new discussion group!
I shoot at steel hanger targets all the time with my Mark 2, a 9mm and .45s. They are at 35 and 50 yards so I don't think richochets are a problem. The range is very strict on "cross firing" though. Most of the vendors of the steel targets you can buy say don't shoot at them closer than 15 yards. If you shoot straight on, and far enough, it should be ok.
The bullets won't just go "splat." The key is what happens to the steel target after impact. If it is light enough and free to move, the bullet should continue past it after impact and hit whatever is behind it. However, if the target is rigid or even so heavy that the bullet can't deflect it, I'd watch for ricochets. A couple of weeks ago, I was using an old propane tank for a target with .44 magnum, .38 special, and .22 LR. All were lead bullets. First shot from .44 put a large dent in the tank and the bullet fell at my feet! .38 produced similar results as did the .22.
I once looked into this thinking about making my own swingers. Steel targets are made of hardened steel /4" or 3/8" thick for .22's. Thickness goes up for centerfire ammo. Frying pans are aluminum or the old cast iron. You could shoot through an aluminum pan. The cast iron ones can crack if hit at a weak granular spot. You could get some funny richochets off the sides or the inside. That having been said, I've seen people shoot at them and nobody fell over after being hit or jumped up to avoid a richochet as best I can remember. Use your judgement and consider that you can get bouncers off to the sides.
You can buy steel spinners, swingers or the knock-down kind (with a reset) targets for .22's that aren't too expensive. Birchwood Casey makes a line of them and you can find some nice steel targets on e-bay. They are lots of fun to shoot at since you not only get the "ding" but get to see something happen when you hit it.
I think a frying pan has too much mass and is pretty likely to bounce a .22 bullet rather than move. Seems risky and you sure don't want to take a chance having a bullet go astray and injuring another shooter or spectator. Tin cans on a string using a simple frame make great action targets and are safe. Good luck.
They will make any size or shape you want and they aren't too high priced. But, consider shipping costs if you choose to order, they aren't light! (They are within driving distance for me.)
you have to get the pic on the net somehow (have a hosting company) to put the pic on the net for you. Then you can just put the link in your post and the pic will show up like this:
all I put in my post for that pic to show up was this:
h-ttp://www.1bad69.com/gallery/GunStuff/Ruger/dcp02756.jpg
(without the - in the http at the begining)
Hey all. Ive just started using new ammo, (federal, copperhollow points, $8 Wal-Mart), instead of my standby federal classics ($14). They work great, but every hundred or so rounds results in a stovepipe. Is this because ive finally run 2500 or so rounds through my gun, wearing the extractor, or just a quirk with this ammo? will a new exact-edge fix this? what exactly causes a stovepipe?
look closely at the edge of the extractor,what do you see?I had a chip broken off the corner of mine,once I changed to an exact edge, I still haven't had a problem.I would change it even if I did'nt see anything wrong,it's only 11 bucks and S AND H. everyone says the extractor is the weakest part of the MKII,and I agree!
A stovepipe is usually caused by the shell hitting the ejector (the little thing sticking up with the finger forward on the bottom of the bolt chamber) while not being in the grip of the extractor. The shell just turns sideways instead of being flipped out the ejection port. When the extractor is holding the shell and it hits the ejector, its kinda like a tiddlywink effect to spring it out. If its not being held, then it doesn't hit the ejector correctly and it turns up. Thats why the exact edge extractor solves the problem, it holds the shell. The Ruger factory one has a much smaller edge to grab the shell. Once it wears or breaks, its time for a new one. And yes, some ammo will cause more stovepipes than others.
Volquartsen Extractor Should be Standard Equipment
by mike
Sooner or later the stock Ruger extractor is going to cause trouble. Best use for it is as a spare in the very unlikely event the Volquartsen extractor ever wears out. By the way, extractors don't extract on blow back actions. Their real function is to hold the empty case firm enough against the rear moving bolt, so the ejector (piece riveted in bottom of receiver) can hit the empty firm enough to toss it clear of the action. They do extract a chambered cartridge that has NOT be fired. When you order the extractor from OnTarget, I'd also get a trigger shield. Another great idea that should be standard equipment.
new to the forum... just been reading a LOT. anyway, i kind of prefer narrower sights than what come with the 22/45, does anyone know of some aftermarket sights that are narrower?
i've been plinking with a range's 22/45 and ended up buying a mark ii competition. i get to pick it up next monday... and can't wait.
this range's 22/45 never gets cleaned. i think i'll take in a tooth brush for the chamber... i put about 300 rounds through it a week and they WD-40 it once a week. i get a few fail to fires as well as partial extractions.
Chris,
You might try calling Bo-Mar sights in Longview, Texas.
I have installed two of their rear sights on my KMK-II 5-1/2" bull barrel and KMK-II GV 6-7/8" bull barrel and they are great; they do offer difference size rear sight opennings (rear sight blades) as options.
I ordered mine thru Gil Hebard Guns in Knoxville, Ill.
If all goes well, I plan to order my first Mark II in a week or so. I would like to get the Government Competition model, but I have something I would like a clarification on before I make up my mind for sure...
I have read a lot of this forum in the last few weeks. I started by reading backwards from the front a few months, and then I decided to start from the beginning (or the end, depending on how you look at it) back in 2000.
I read several posts from the recent months dealing with jams in the Stainless Steel Models of the Mark II. The replies from these posts indicated that these guns have some jamming/stove pipe problems in the beginning, but after about 1000 rounds, the parts break in and it is smooth sailing from there, as long as you find the ammo that your gun likes.
But then I started reading the posts from two years ago. They talked a lot about QC problems, polishing, sending the guns bact to Ruger, etc...
My questions are : Did Ruger change their manufacturing procedures to make these guns more reliable in the last couple of years? Did it just take a while to figure out that these guns settled down after being properly broken in? Do SS Mark IIs need gunsmithing to make them reliable?
Go ahead and buy it. You won't need any gunsmithing. Some Mark 2's, regardless of finish, have jamming problems until they are broken in. I don't believe that is the rule but rather the exception. Not many people will post to a forum when everything is fine. But when you have a jam, you want to know why. You will have to try different ammo since Mark 2's are picky about what they like to eat. There are lots of posts about this topic and the only conclusion you can draw is that your gun will have it's own preference. After a few thousand rounds (or more) you will probably notice stovepipes occuring more. This is usually due to the Ruger extractor losing it's grip. Its a simple task to replace that with an exact edge type and it fixes that. My Gov't. Comp. fired fine right out of the box. Of course, that didn't stop me from adding all the Volquartsen stuff and playing around with other things.
My KMK512 came out of the box with a very short brake in period, couple hundred rounds, after a good initial cleaning.My philosophy is "If it ain't broke don't fix it". So I haven't replaced anything yet. I kind of curious to find out for myself what happens. I have however added a V-comp, UltraDot and changed the grips. All of which makes for some nice eye candy....So Radar I don't think you'll have a problem with SS. I can tell you I haven't regreted my choice for a second...
There is something I'd advise concerning brake in. Use the higher power rounds. They will cycle better and help smooth the rough points.Also there's been a lot of discussion about a dirty MarkII working better than a clean one. This goes against my instincts so I've always kept mine clean with no adverse effects.Like I said "If it ain't broke don't fix it". Start with high power rounds and keep it clean. If you have problems blame MarkP........
Had a fair amount of trouble with my slabside, but would buy another without hesitation. However, I would order a Volquartsen extractor and a trigger shield from OnTarget and install when I did my first cleaning. The guns are a bit rough where it does not make a lot of difference, but that is how they hold the price down to a reasonable level. I would also use a premium lubricant in moderation. As to cleaning, it appears that about once every 1000 to 1500 rounds is adequate. Good Luck. By the way, if you do have any problems, Ruger customer service is first rate.
only problem I have had so far is 1 light strike (with cheap ammo), and I only have had about 400 rounds through it so far... I did put the trigger shield and replacement extractor in mine also:
here is a link to instructions for disassembly(also shows the trigger guard) and extractor replacement (links at the top): http://www.1bad69.com/ruger/index.htm
Had my slab side GC for aprox, 2500 rounds. I'm using it for bullseye and falling plates. I use CCi standard velocity for both. The only problem I've encountered is ater about 500 rounds I'll get a light strike. I've found that if I keep the chamber clean, nylon brush and solvent clean, no more problem. My thinking is lubricant build up in the chamber and the case can't seat well. So I keep it clean. No complaints and love the gun!
Thanks for the input, everyone. All of your answers are pretty much what I expected to hear, from what I have read on the forum, but I just wanted to make sure. Have made up my mind, will get the Slabside. Probably in about a week.
Will definitely get the OnTarget Trigger Shield. Think I will wait on an aftermarket extractor until I see if it needs it. Besides, I don't want to void the warranty by swapping out parts until I make sure everything works correctly.
Read the second to last page in your manual.......you don't have a warranty. But don't worry, Ruger has what many consider the best customer service in the industry. They will usually replace any part. So when your extractor breaks, you can get a new one from Ruger for free, or pay for one that won't break or cause stovepipes when the front edge wears. But you are absolutely right, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Well except for the trigger and the hammer and the sear and the grips and the bolt release and the ................
I'd at least order the extractor. Might be interesting to see how your gun works with the factory extractor. Then if you have any problems, swap extractors and see if that makes the problem go away. In my case, I was trying so many things that I could not be sure it was the extractor, but that seemed to have the biggest impact. As to the warranty, it is pretty easy to put the factory extracto back in if you need to return the gun to Ruger. BY THE WAY, do pay attention to the manual where it say's to NOT use the bolt stop lever to release the bolt after inserting a fresh magazine. The ONLY correct way, is to grab the bolt ears, pull back and release. Otherwise you'll wear the bolt face and eventually the bolt will not stay open after the last round is fired.
I will order the Exact Edge Extractor at the same time I order the Trigger Shield. But I will try the factory extractor out before I replace it to see what the difference is. Then I will keep the old one... just in case.
Thought I read some things on the forum about "voiding your warranty" by replacing parts. Will read the manual thoroughly when I get my gun.
I bought a Slab last summer and have about 6,000 rounds through the beast. I put the Wilson Trigger, the
Extractor, the Speed Hammer, The Trigger Shield and also added an OKO Red Dot from Brownells. It is quite impressive and believe it or not, I have had only 2 (that's two) stove pipes in all. I attribute those because one day I went through three bricks of cheap (Winchester) ammo without cleaning and toward the end of the run had those two. Nary a problem since as I clean my Slab after every session. After a bit of my own work, I have my trigger pull to a nice crisp 2 pound pull with just a small amount of creep and no travel due to the Wilson. I wish you the best with your new baby.
I have only had my Ruger for a few weeks, but I have put about 1500 rounds through it so far - cleaning it about every 200-500 rounds depending on how much time I have that day to shoot. I am still getting about 5-8 missfires (duds) per box of 500 of Rem or CCI. Gun happily eats anything so far with about the same results. My 22 Mossberg rifle almost never missfires - so I'm thinking it's the gun. Think I have had only 1 or 2 stovepipes, so that is not a problem.
Am I cleaning it too much? (lol)
Would a better than stock extractor or firing pin help?
What do you think?
Thanks!!
John
If your problems are misfires, but no failures to feed or stovepipe ejection problems, I'd remove the firing pin from the bolt and check for any obvious defects. While the bolt is out, clean the firing pin and the channel it fits into completely. Then I'd look at the chamber and make sure it was clean and didn't any minor burrs or imperfections. Also, check to make sure the bolt face and the breech end of the barrel was completely clean. If that does not solve your problem, it's probably time to call Ruger and consider sending the gun back for service. Sounds to me like the cartridges are not getting fully seated in the chamber or the bolt is not closing 100% resulting in light strikes by the firing pin. Good Luck.
You didn't say if you were getting clean strikes on the misfires but I think Mike has good advice. Take out the firing pin and look at the spring. Clean the channel and pin. The extractor shouldn't have anything to do with this unless it is preventing the gun from going all the way into battery but I think you would notice more than just misfires if you could make the hammer fall without the bolt being forward.
You probably know this but to get to the firing pin, take the bolt out, push forward on the rear of the firing pin to get the stop pin out of the bolt. Then you can lift the firing pin out and the plunger with the spring. If you find the spring to be broken, call Ruger to get a new or a few "rebound springs". You can also order these from Numrich.
Rich, since it is not a commercial site, is it possible to add the link that yzguy refers to as a permanent link on the main page of the forum site? I bet people would find it very handy. Just a thought.
On my new slab side, less than 2500 rounds, it seems that lube builds up in the chamber. Then when the round is pushed into the chamber it doesn't seat 100%. So when I clean it I spend extra time with a nylon bore brush and solvent on the chamber. Haven't had a light strike in 500 or so rounds. Good luck!
Thanks for the ideas!
I will lube and clean the firing pin assbly & chamber before I go to the range again. Haven't had the bolt assembly apart yet - guess I just didn't think of it as a potential source of trouble.
Thanks also for the assbly link. I don't find it's too bad to get back together if you follow the directions to the letter.
It's a little more involved than re-assembling my Glock though $^)
I would recommend that you clean the firing pin chamber but don't oil it. That oil will make its way to the breech when the bolt goes forward. I try to keep oil off the front half of the bolt and the breech.
I recently discoverd my local wal mart DOES have rifle ammo. 550 copper platerd hollow points, for $7, sweet!,or so i thought. I went out and started firing. every clip had at least one dud, and when I attempted to eject the round, it wouldnt come out. i had to pry each dud out with my girlfrinds hairclip (shes my reloader:) after 100 or so rounds, i was fed up. the bullets didnt seem to be crimped into place well either. Has anyone else had these problems? whats the best copper plated ammo i can get from wal mart? im interested in everyones experiences. my old standby federal classics run around 12-14 bucks a brick,and im kinda broke....
I also used the Federal Bulk-Pack from Walmart's, but started thinking...brick after brick of cooper-plated metal wearing down the perfect groves of my 512 barrel...
Walmart also sells Winchester Xpert 22 (500 pack for $8) which seems to be lubricated lead hollow-points. They shoot great & then I finish my shooting session with a few rounds of cooper-plated just to help clean the barrel of any possible lead residues...just a thought..
That lube on the federal 550 pak has about as much copper in it as a copper colored crayola crayon has copper. There are no copper jackets until you get to a 25 cal size. You'll be lucky if the Win X goes up your ramp with out crushing the cone.
Dave,
Most of the pistol team I shoot with has had such awful
results with Remmimgton Brass Plated Hollow Point 22s that they don't shoot it even for practice. I won't.
Some have tried the 40 gr brass plated solid version with equally bad results.
Save your remaining rounds and take 'em back abd get your money back!
Then go back to Federal Classic like I do. I shoot it in all my matches.
John
How the hell do you get the adjustable rear sight off of the gun? I have a 22/45 and have just bought a scope mount but need to take the rear sight off in order to get the mount on.........BUT I"M LOST!!!!!!! It appears to be glued on there.
If you are the first owner of the gun, then loosen the set screw, get a small piece of leather to protect the side of the sight, and use a punch against it to tap the sight out from left to right when looking from the rear (port to starboard). If you got the gun from a previous owner, he may have used Loctite to secure the sight. Heat usually loosens blue loctite a bit. Use a hair dryer and heat up the base of the sight, then try to tap it out. If it was done with the permanent type Loctite, then it will be much harder and you might have to "sacrifice" the sight.
That did the trick and so I now have my mount and red dot sight on the pistol, all ready to go to be sighted in so I can take some bushytails with it. Thanks for the quick response and solution to my question.
Now, you may want to try this before loading rounds and searching for the zero:
Take the bolt out of your gun, sight through the bore at a target center and then zero your dot to the center. Replace the bolt and shoot, you should at least be close enough to adjust it in. I zero'd mine at 50 feet since I shoot indoors mostly. I've found that it is still close up to 50 yards but off when shooting at 7 or 11 yards.
This one shoots extremly well with all types of name brand ammo. It shoots 3/4" groups at 50 yards under less than ideal conditions. I can't remember it ever jamming. The empty cases are ejected with a little to much authority in spite of heavy duty recoil spring. I think this might be do to the fact that I have the extracter holding the case very firmly in place. I find this last goes a long way in correcting stove pipe type jams. Also, maybe because extra barrel length has chance to build more pressure sending bolt/spent cartridge to rear at higher speed. 
