Comes in right or left. I have one. Fits good and only cost $15.00. Padded nylon. On the internet or should be able to find a right hand at about any decent sporting goods or gun shop.
Randy.... assuming you have stainless....It does not come any better than this!!!!!!(might be a bit rough on a blued gun).......50 bucks.... Holy smokes thats a long URL!!
Does anyone have any advice for replacing the recoil spring on the guide rod. There appears to be a slight crimp at the rod which prevents a half moon shape retainer from slipping off. Is there an easy way to remove the spring/retainer?
TIA - bob
Here's how to do it easily. Push the half-moon-shape retainer back with a Vise-Grip plier and clamp it to the guide rod - held back far enough to file off the crimped-in ridges. If you then are going to change the spring, be careful where and how you release the Vise-Grip in order to avoid losing parts or being hit by them as they fly off.
This is a relatively easy job to do - actually, easier than disassembling the MkII for the first time unassisted!!
read this site from begining to end in the week i had to wait for my new kmk512. out of the box it jammed with every clip full of ammo. i honed up the slot int the clips and it works flawless now. thanks to this site. also had a hard time selecting which model to buy but after all your inputs bought the kmk512 and couldn`t be happier. ruger should make this site required reading for any one buying there mark 2 pistols
anyone have the gov't 10 barreled ruger? I am wondering how comfortable it is to shoot for long target practice sessions.
I going to see my father this weekend and i'm contemplating a little father-son purchase!! He bought the gun new in the early 80's and has only shot appx. 200 rds. through it (what a shame). when i go to the range i shoot 300-600 rds, with my little target games.
i'm thinking this lil dude might be a tricep enhancer (if you know what i mean). Let me know if this gun is as heavy as it looks!
I just wanted to say to all of you- readers of this forum (who are afraid or do not to comment) , that "you comments are always welcome. There are no stupid questions. only the ones that are not asked!!! asking question or giving your advise is important for everyones learning here on the forum.
please free to contribute your experiences and knowledge (we are all here to learn from one another and and enjoy what we all have in common).
You are too funny.....are you familiar with what is known as a cheerleader ?
do you have a megaphone and pom poms.........ra.. ra.. ra.. please don't take offense but the image came to mind and you got a chuckle outta me
heres my tip...just like in pistol shooting...if you grip too hard and not relax...you will likely not see the results you want
But it's nice of you to convey your heart felt welcome to the bleechers
I've been away from the computer for a week (Spring Break) and now I'm back, still fighting to get my 22/45 reassembled.
Bullseye wrote:
"Check to ensure that the receiver is pushed all the way rearward on the frame, it should have about a 1/16 in. overlap when fully seated. The stop pin can be a little difficult to seat, so if the frame is seated fully don't be afraid to give it a little tap with a mallet to seat it."
Where do I tap with the mallet? There's not much room to hit it there with any force, and I'm afraid it's going to bust the hinge pin that the housing swivels on if I do that.
First, I'd tap on the muzzle end of the barrel to ensure the receiver is fully seated rearward on the frame. Be sure to use ONLY a wooden, plastic, or rawhide mallet, so the mallet doesn't damage the barrel's delicate crown surface. Remember, you are just tapping, not trying to drive home the golden spike on the Intercontintental Railroad.
If your receiver is fully seated, then the receiver and the frame's bolt stop pin guide holes should be aligned and ready for the stop pin to be inserted. However, be sure to tilt the barrel fully downward (forward) to get the hammer spur pin to fall forward away from the recess for the bolt stop pin. Now push the stop pin into the hole, while the barrel is still tilted downward, and start it into the guide pin holes. You may have to apply a little force here to get the bolt stop pin to seat. If it still won't seat, then you may use the mallet to lightly seat the pin on any part of the mainspring housing that you can get a good surface to apply the force necessary to seat the pin. Again only lightly tap, do not hammer the pin in or you will break the bolt stop hinge pin.
If everything is aligned properly, then light force is all that will be necessary to seat the pin. If you don't get the pin to seat, then dissassemble the mainspring housing and visually check for any obstructions, like the hammer strut being in the way.
The first few times the bolt stop pin is inserted it may be a tight fit but after a few teardowns it'll go in a lot easier. You may also want to put a few drops of oil on the pin to help lubricate it as it passes through the guide holes.
Hey, sorry if this has been asked before, but I couldn't find it. How do you change extractors? I ordered a new Volquartsen one from Ontargetguns.com but it did not come with instructions. I can't figure out how to get the old one out, let alone the new one in. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
It may help if you get a third hand. While you hold the bolt in one hand, and pull back the plunger with the other, have someone else grab the extractor and pull/wiggle it up. It should come right out if you have the plunger pulled back far enough.
Or maybe put the bolt in a padded vise so you can pull the plunger with one hand and wiggle the extractor out with the other...
Thanks for all the concern and offers to help. I finally figured it out after looking at the pictures a second time. It was a little bit of me being fuzzy on the concept, and a little bit of the factory extractor not wanting to leave it's home. Thanks again.
I had been planing on ordering the VQ Extractor for both my Mark II's, been drag'n my feet for three days now. I understood it to be a fairly easy job....now you've got me nervous....Let me know how it goes please
It's not that difficult at all. The trickiest part is moving the extractor pin backward far enough and tilting the extractor hook forward (toward the bolt face), to help pry it out using a little leverage.
With a little practice a couple minutes for the whole extractor removal/insertion procedure is possible.
the hardest part is holding that little spring back while trying to remove the extractor!!! Of course if I put the bolt into a padded vise I would have had my other hand to work with and it would have been a lot easier.... still not that hard though.
I lay the bolt on a padded table facing to my left. I take my right hand and hold my dental pick (or jewler's screwdriver) and use the bottom of the heel of my right hand to keep the bolt from moving. I pry back the extractor pin and hold the bolt down with my right hand and use my left index finger to pry down the extractor and then lift it out of the slot.
I'm ambidextrous so it may be a little easier for me.
every time I tried holding the spring and bolt in one hand...
by
when I started to try to remove the extractor the plunger slipped off my screwdriver... Then I found I could just turn it upside down and it just fell out....
I never tried turning it sideways (only had to try like 3-4 times anyway)
This good news considering I said the heck with it this morning and went ahead and ordered 2 VQ extractors this morning, I thought this can't possible be that hard. I have always been good with my hands, shoot at 10 years old was taking Gramma's toaster apart and fix'n it....this just shoots bullets instead of bread.
Once again, thanks guys for the great advice. I eagerly look forward to your next words of wisdom
Sorry I never replied to tell you how the extractor swap went. It went great due to the advice on this thread and I've been too busy shooting (no failures in 300 rounds since the new extractor) and with work to come back to the forum. I hope your extractor swap went well also.
I will be shooting my new MK II this weekend for the first time and had a few questions about ammunition. I realize that each gun has its own preference, but I am looking for some broad generalizations.
I was going to initially purchase one of the bricks of Federal ammunition...550 rounds for about $10. Then I noticed there was a federal classic high velocity...500 rounds for about 20 bucks. The list kept going on and on.
Being relatively new to shooting in general, and completely new to an autoloader, how much difference is there between standard and high velocity? Also, would i be okay purchasing the inexpensive ammunition to get familiar with the gun, or is this a mistake?
Take a look at this page: http://www.accuratereloading.com/22rf.html
It has group size averages from several different rifles and many different types of ammo. One thing I noticed was that the CCI Blazers (about $1 for 50) had groups that were among the smallest.
A lot of people that post to this board shoot the 550 round federal bulk packs (which are high velocity rounds, by the way). There certainly isn't anything wrong with shooting the cheep stuff. And as you can see from that list I refered you to, some of the cheeper stuff can be just as accurate as the more expensive stuff. I believe the more expensive ammo usually has less chance of duds, which can help out in a match.
I remember one story I read somewhere n this board which I will paraphrase. This guy was shooting a matches with cheep, bulk packaged ammo. And was doing quite well. That didn't keep the other competitors from making fun of his inexpensive ammo. So he started loading his bulk packed ammo into empty boxes that he found in the range garbage can. People stopped bugging him when they thought he was shooting the expensive stuff.
As far as the difference between the different velocity types:
First you have *Standard Velocity*, which is also sometimes referred to as Subsonic. Most of the match ammo is standard velocity. Then you have *High Velocity*, which is supersonic when fired in a rifle. And finally you have Hypervelocity ammo, which shoots a few hundred feet/second faster than the high velocity.
The reason, as I understand it, that the match ammo is designed to be subsonic is as follows. When a supersonic bullet slows down to below the speed of sound (which happes at obout 50 yards down range or so when fired from a rifle), it starts to tumble, which effects the trajectory slightly. So if the bullet never travels faster than the speed of sound in the first place, it never has this problem.
The thing to keep in mind with handguns is that with the short barrels that we shoot with, even the high velocity rounds only reach about 1050 fps, which is slower than the speed of sound. So we don't have to worry much about that transitional tumbling.
One final thing to keep in mind (than I will give my poor fingers a rest). Page nine of the Mark II manual says, "The Ruger Mark II pistol is chambered only for the .22 caliber Long Rifle cartridge, standard velocity or high velocity, munufactured to U.S. industry standards." Then it says don't shoot anything else through it. So you may want to stay away from hyper velocity stuff.
Enjoy your gun, then, if you want to get serious about real tight groups, start experimenting with different ammo. The Federal 550 bulks are very reliable and shoot good enough for starters, plinking and recreational tartgeting.
I'll second that! I had lots of problems with all ammo until I put in a new extractor (@ $10 at ontargetguns). Now my MkII feasts on the Federal 550 Bulk pack with absolutely zero malfunctions in the last 300 rounds! Fed Bulk is $8.50 at Wal-Mart and can't be beat.
I have a pretty simple (I hope) question about cleaning my new Mk II. Today was the first time I've shot this gun and when I got home and started to clean it, I relized I couldn't get a patch down the barrel. I was using a pistol cleaning kit from Hoppe's and had purchases a .22 brush seperately. However, none of the rod-end accesories would fit down the barrel.
I ended up using the brush to "push" the patches through the barrel, but there must be a better way? Is there a tick I am missing?
Thanks for all the help, you guys have helped the learning curve a ton,
I have a Hoppes rifle/shotgun cleaning kit that a patch holder small enough to push through a .22, so I know they are out there.
Another option is something called a bore snake, which is a soft, braided, rope like thing with a built in bronze brush. The "rope" has the same surface area as dozens of patches, so you get lots of result for minimum effort. I run mine through the barrel once or twice (with no solvent) after shooting and end up with a spotless bore.
Objections that I have heard about the bore snake usually have to do with re-using the same material over and over again. But I must point out that it is washable, either by hand or in the washing machine after placing in a net bag. Others have posted that even if you did end up pulling some kind of debris through the bore along with the snake, the snake wouldn't push hard enough against the bore for the debris to scratch it.
One other option for pulling patches through that I have seen is to use a length of the plastic cutting strap from a weed eater. You can cut a length a little longer than your barrel and make a little loop in one end and then use a flame to melt the loop closed. Sorry, I can't think of a better way to describe it. You use the melted plastic as the adhesive to make the it stay in a loop. (I better stop trying to explain, or i will end up confused!) Then you can just stick a patch through the loop and pull it through the bore.
Just wondering, what kind of ammo did you decide on, and what did you think?
I forgot to mention the other day that even with cheep ammo and the gun resting on sandbags, my 678GC still outshoots me.
I also forgot to mention... If you have a lot of stove pipes (where the bolt closes on a not quite ejected case) or misfeed problems of one kind or another, don't worry too much, these problems usually work themselves out after a couple hundred rounds or so and the gun startd getting broken in. I had a misfeed every clip for the first 50 rounds or so, then everything started working really smoothe.
I ended up with Federal Classic. After finishing these off i am going to try the CCI Blazers. Shot 200 rounds with only one round that didn't fire, and seemed to have loaded a little crooked(?) into the gun,,,I had a hell of a time getting it out. Is there an easy, and safe way to get a jam out of the gun. I removed the magazine and had the safety on, but it wasn;t easy at all to get it out.
While I am asking questions, one more...What brand oil do you prefer. Currently I am using Hoppe 9 bore cleaner and the oil supplied in the kit, but would change if there was something better that I should be using. Any suggestions?
I keep a 3/16" wooden dowell in my gun case. If another round gets jammed in the chamber you can use something like that to push it out from the front. Be careful not to use any metal tools to pry a stuck round out by the rim. If you crush the rim, the round could go off .
I use Miltec 1. If half of the claims on the web site are valid ( http://www.militec1.com/ ), then it is awesome stuff. But if you ask 10 people on this forun what lube to use, you will get 10 different answers.
Just thought I'd jump in. I was having the same problem with the rounds not ejecting and the bolt closing on the empty case. It started getting worse and I replaced the extractor with a volquartsen extractor from www.ontargetguns.com I haven't had a single problem since.
Zach...you may know this..but always insert your cleaning rods,brushes,jags,patches etc. from the bolt end. so everything travels the direction of the bullet. be carfull not to damage the crown of your barrel (it is the last thing a bullet sees as it exits the barrel, and damage can effect accuracy)
You should not require any tricks to push a wet patch through your barrel. Some patches are quite thick and others are thinner....I like the cotton flannel type. You should be using small .22 patches.
good luck, enjoy your pistol.. Aimhigh
It's not like a Mk. II where there's a spring to depress and then the pin comes out. Totally different. There is what appears to be a washer between the trigger and left side of the frame that the trigger pin goes through . I tried tapping the pin in both directions (actually a little more than merely tapping). It doesn't want to come out like there's something keeping it in there. I can't see any way to get it out.
Any ideas ????
Thanks for any help on this.
Jeff
That washer is actually an "E" spring clip. You have to remove it by either pulling it off the pin on the closed end or pushing it off on the open end. Once you've removed it you can push out the trigger pin. you can see it better on this drawing, it's item #5.
The way it's turned in there and not much room to see I didn't notice it was an e-clip. It'll still be tough to get out but I think I can manage now that I know what it'll take.
Thanks again.
Jeff
This something that I just found and it was meaningful to me so I figured that it would be meaningful to others who are just learning about the red dot sights.
"Minute of Angle (MOA) is the relationship between the diameter of the dot inside the scope compared to the diameter that the dot would appear on a target at 100 yards.
For example,
2 MOA Red Dot Sight would cover a 2" circle at 100 yards, 1" circle at 50 yards or a 1/2" circle at 25 yards.
4 MOA Red Dot Sight would appear 4" at 100 yards, 2" at 50 yards or 1" at 25 yards."
So when picking a sight you have to think about your typical shooting distance. Smaller MOA ==> potentially greater accuracy. The more interesting specification is the resolution of the adjustment. What fraction of a MOA does 1 click of the adjustment correspond to. I don't see this always specified and after a month of looking, I have seen it specified just once (on the page where I got the above definition).
Hey all. I went to the range yesterday, and decided to try out these winchester x-pert JHP's. They come in a bulk pack from Wal Mart. They fed fine into my Marlin Bolt Action, but were not accurate at all (I thought I had read that they were resonably accurate). Then I got out my 22/45, thinking I could get it to eat up half of this bulk pack before I left. To my dismay, every 3rd round was catching on the feed ramp, and leaving a nice little gash in the bullet nose. This ammo has a very wide and deep hollow point, but Ive never seen this before. I usually use Federal bulk pack, and than the Wolf MT or CCI stuff for serious work. The winchester x-perts, however, will never make it into my ammo stockpile. Anyone else had this experience? I know one should try different ammo, to see what works best, but this ammo had such severe feeding problems, it was hard to believe these were 22 LR, as my ruger eats up EVERYTHING i put in it.
It all depends on your gun. Xpert worked fine in a 10/22 I tested them in - totally reliable and quite accurate. But I can see how the design of the bullet nose could cause jams in some guns.
Winchester X-pert feed well in 5 out 6 of my magazines in my KMK-678GC. Have not yet discovered what section of the top of the magazine critical to cause the noise to rise before it hits the ramp into the chamber.
1 misfeed out of 70 is sub par and would cause me to not use the ammo ever agian, with CCI Ive been getting no misfeeds and maybe 2 ejection problems per 500 rounds.
Dave,
Like the folks say guns are individual. Try some different ammo and keep track. I've purchased just about everything I can find in .22LR at Wal-Mart. I have an inexpensive 22/45 with a 5.5" barrel. My records show:
Remington Golden Bullets (HP 550/$9.00 Wal-Mart)- work pretty well and are my low cost "staple." A fair number of dud primers and an occasional "nosedive" in my feed ramp. (Although this has really improved since polishing the ramp and shooting the gun more.)
CCI Mini Mags (HP $4/100 Target Range) absolutely superb in my gun. Never miss a beat, but twice the cost of the Remingtons.
Federal Lightnings (Solid 50/$1.00 Wal-Mart) numerous stovepipes and an occasional failure to feed. Probably won't be buying these again.
Winchester Wildcat (Solid 50/$1.00 Wal-Mart) One stovepipe in 50 rounds. I also noted they were smokier than the Remingtons.
Winchester Super-X (Solid 50/$1.90 Wal-Mart) Shot without problems.
Remington Thunderbolts (Solid 50/$1.00) Shot without problems.
I haven't got around to checking out the Remington Target .22's or the CCI Stingers, yet.
So go down to Wal-Mart and buy a few small boxes and see what your gun likes. That's part of the fun of shooting the weapon.
I've tried all the ammo that you've listed and my results varied some. Had good luck with the Fed Lightenings, Remington Golden Bullets, Remington Thunderbolts, Winchester Super X, and Winchester wildcats. But the Winchester X-perts weren't worth buying. Remington Thunderbolts are my choice for cheap ammo. I couldn't even get the Winchester X-perts to shoot well in my 10/22, just not very accurate.
You mentioned the Remington Target ammo and the CCI Stingers, both of which I've shot through my KMK-512. The CCI Stingers are great, thats my choice for hunting squirrel with my MKII in the fall. When my gun was new I had trouble getting CCI ammo to extract, but after breaking it in good it loves Stingers. I wouldnt waste the money on the Remington target ammo, it's JUNK! A friend and I both bought some and had bad luck with it out of every gun we tried. First we tried it in our MKII's, neither of which shot consistently and we found a LOT of duds. Had much the same result with my 10/22, marlin semi auto, and his Henry lever action.
You may want to be careful with the CCI Stingers. The Ruger MK II and 22/45 are dwsigned for standard and high velocity rounds. The Stingers are hyper velocity rounds. So you may not want to shoot them with a 22/45.
I got around to shooting my box of Stingers last night. Wow they are one HOT round. They sure make a big blast. Unfortunately 3 of the 50 rounds were physically bent (the casing) when the bolt slammed them into the feed ramp sort of sideways. Both the rangemaster and I were impressed at the damage to the casings.
Your advice is probably very timely - the Stingers are a little bit too hot for my pistol. Thanks for your comments.
Hey Buck,
Glad your 22/45 eats those Stingers. They sure sound mean.
Have a P512 that loves Winchester POWER POINTS, and I agree that the Winchester Wildcats bite. For general plinking I go for the Federal bulk pack from Wally World. Keep it safe, Joe
One thing's for sure. I've never had a misfire or hangfire - in either a MkII or 10/22 - with Winchester Xpert the way some favoring cheap Remington ammo commonly do. While I've never had a jam with it in a 10/22, it has in a MkII; maybe the gun just needs feed-ramp polishing. At under two cents per round, it's a good buy.
Some manufacturers make a point of larger diameter bullets (Lapua Midas or Master or Multi M & L).Paco Kelly's Acu'rzr tool is INTENDED to swage rounds up to .224 or a larger.225 size. Better bullet to bore lineup from the chamber, better gas seal, rifleing engagement I understand. Makes sense to me, so I want to test larger rounds in my Mk I ("I wonder what the spec dimensions of the barrel are?" he mused...)
so...
Anyone have an idea what Manufacturer products run toward the big end of the .22 range?
By the way, some info from the Rimfire Central board on a dozen or so miked rounds didn't show any touching .224 in actual diameter!?!! Any direction would be interesting.
Has anyone ever used one of these with a Mk II? I just ordered my Mk II P-512 yesterday and am looking for a holster. Since I like to shoot ambidextrously I'd prefer this holster to one of the Sidekicks, but only if it fits my gun of course.
Hey all, I gave my 22/45 its "2000 round" cleanup today. Got it spotless, but ive gotta wonder, should I lightly coat the gun in oil (as ive been tought), or just leave the Hoppes #9. This stuff coats really well, and says it prevents rust, if so id prefer it to oil on the outside of my gun. I use militec as a lubricant on the bolt, and have been using less and less each time, as ive found this keeps the action cleaner. I live in southern california, were our "winter" (aka 6 days of rain total in feb and march-none in jan.) is over, and its dry here most of the year, so rust never seems to be too much a problem.
p.s.-thanks for the info on my winchester x-pert post, my ammo choices are as follows...
Plinking, Practice;Federal Bulk Pack, its cheap, pretty clean, and almost always goes bang, also its jacketed. Id say 80% of my shooting is done with this
Target practice; CCI blazers, and Federal classics
Target shooting; Wolf MT, and Federal Gold medal, sometimes blazers too.
Specialty loads; Super colibri, Stingers & Velociters, and CB caps. all generally for the little hunting ive done-got a soda can with a cb cap the other day in the back yard, boy was that can sorry it ever messed with me....
Remington; I CANT STAND this stuff, its inconsistent at best, usually unreliable, and even the good stuff has a dud every ten rounds, remington needs to shape up, and from others ive spoken to, same things happening all over the country.
ahh, there ive said it
p.s.s-god bless our troops, and the us- LA is full of those who wouldn't support our troops.
Hoppes has oil in it and when the solvent base evaporates it leaves a thin layer of the oil behind to coat the metal.
Since you live in Southern California where the relative humidity is very low, compared to the rest of the country, you should be alright with your present regiment of cleaning. But humidity isn't all that counts, wide fluctuations in temperature can cause condenstation to form on relatively cooler surfaces. Metals tend to remain cooler in the morning and can gain a layer of condenstaion on them just like dew forming on the lawn in the morning.
Having spent a considerable number of years in California, I can say that if your regularly applying the Hoppes solvent then you shouldn't have too much to worry about. Unless you live in the mountains (like near Lake Arrowhead or Big Bear) where the temperatures and humidity can swing big time.
Another thing that's bad to do is to keep any firearms stored in an attic because there the temperatures vary tremendously between days and nights. (I'm not saying you do this but others might and this warning is for them to read.) Condensation will form quickly and the oil just rises on top of the moisture and starts the corrosion cycle on the now unprotected metal. (Remember oil floats on water!)
If your concerned about rust or infrequently apply Hoppes, then adding a thin coat of oil to the surface won't hurt. Its up to you.
Shooters Choice, Hoppes, and many other cleaning solvents have the oil added into the solvent. However, Sweet's 7.62 doesn't, and due to the high ammonia content tends to suck out any remaining oils from the micrscopic cracks in the metal. If you use this kind of solvent, be sure to coat the treated surfaces with oil, or corrosion will quicky follow and damage your firearms.
B-Square Mounts... good as all the other mounts frequently discussed ???
by Max Sands
Good question Bob? B-Square has 3 types of mounts for the MkII, but I don't see much discussion one way or the other on them. They have the Universal type that slides onto the reciever, a weaver type that replaces the rear sight rail, and another long slide that replaces both the rear and front sights (and is secured with 2 screws- one in the front and one in the rear). How do these compare with the others everyone seems to like... e.g. the MGW, Weigand, and SoLow? Can anyone help us out with this?
Burris Ruger Mark I/II Mount (what about this mount ?)
by WhatAboutBob?
I can't help with the B-Square question... although I would like to know about them also... but does anyone know anything about the Burris Ruger Mark I and II Handgun Base ? It's suppose to install in seconds without drilling or tapping. It accepts 3/8" 22 rings. Designed for any model with adjustable rear sight. It comes in Black & Nickel.
See: http://burrisoptics.com/bases.html (lower left portion of the web page for a look see at the mount). Thanks for your comments and help !
Max, I have the full lenght B-Square mount on my KMK-512 and I like the way it looks along with the Millet Redot sight. It also has all the VQ accessories and polished innerds and is down to a pound and a half pull. It works for me.
There is very slight movement when twisting the barrel clock wise/counter clock wise on my MK II with 5 1/2 inch bull barrel. The gun is by no means new. Don't know the exact age. It's accurate at 50' but the movement bugs me. Any thoughts on how to tighten it up?
TIA - bob
While I have not done it, nor see the reason to on my own guns, check out this link. He explains about using a vice to tighten the fit. What have found to be very beneficial is the polishing. That, I have done and it has made my gun VERY reliable.
hello all! great forum. Just picked up a 22/45 and have ordered solow mounts and ultradot sight.
Please advise on your most accurate ammo for this firearm. Ive tried some already and have had fair results but would like your suggestions.
It would help if you mentioned what kind of shooting you want to do with your 22/45. Is there any particular price range you desire to stay within for a brick (500)? Or, is the sky the limit?
Mostly what you're going to find is; there are certain brands more that are more inherently accurate than others but this doesn't necessarily translate down to an individual pistol. Each gun favors its own flavor of ammo and trial and error (aka. the scientific method) usually will reveal what brand works best in your gun.
The sky's the limit! I plan on shooting some bullseye and fun shoot's at my gun club. I dont have a problem paying $5.00-6.00 for tournament ammo.
Thanx!
Thanks for the extra info. The bettter picture you paint the better results you get.
I use Eley Tenex Pistol Match Ammo. I also have used SK Rifle Match ammo. Lots of folks I know are getting really good results out of Aguila and it costs very little compared to the other standard velocity target ammunition. Federal gold Medal Target is pretty good.
The CCI brands are very popular on the Match circuit and the merits of this ammo have already been discussed in previous posts.
I shoot less expensive ammo for practice. Its really not necessary to pump the high dollar stuff down range just for practice. Most ammo shoots a pretty flat trajectory at bullseye distances. What this means is you won't see much change between zeros from the different brands, however the group spreads may vary. As long as the lower grade ammo cycles in your gun its OK for practice. I don't even worry about missfires because I practice alibis too. That way when one happens in a match, its not unusual or stressful because its part of my normal practice routine.
Ok in order to shoot standard velocity ammo, you may have to cut off a spring coil or two from you Ruger's recoil spring in order to cycle it. What this means is; your gun shouldn't be used for high velocity ammunition after the spring has been cut because the bolt will slam against the stop pin and damage it. However another option is to purchase another full power recoil spring assembly and then you can change between the high and low power spring set depending on the type of ammo you are shooting. Its very easy to change the ruger recoil spring and the assembly is captive, so there's no self-propelled parts shooting across the room during the procedure.
Thanx bullseye. Ive seen your many posts and Ill heed your suggestions. I have been putting Remington green High velocity through it with good results. no failures to feed, no stovepipes. Its cheap ammo and I
get pretty tight groups w/iron sights from 9 yards.
I have purchased cci green tag, pistol match, and some Eley ammo but IM STILL WAITING FOR MY SOLOW MOUNTS for my 30mm ultradot before I see what this gun will really shoot w/the better ammo.
Now about that spring setup....Ive had this gun field stripped several times for cleaning and Ive removed the spring assy and cleaned it as well.
Do you mean I can trim a few spins of the spring for regular ammmo but aquire an additional unaltered spring for the high velocity ammo right?
Thanx again.
Yes, that's exactly what I mean. You can trim off a turn or two with a pair of sharp wire cutters. This will ease the spring tension for the lower powered target velocity ammo. Brownells and some of the other parts places like Numerich Gun Parts have the recoil spring assys for sale. By having two spring sets you can substitue in the correct tension for the ammo you plan to shoot. Don't go crazy clipping off coils, just take off one or a half of one at a time until you achieve the results you are looking for with your pistol. I wouldn't go beyond removing three coils unless I was getting positive results but just not quite there yet. Then, one more turn would probably be my max limit.
Its good that your getting acceptable results from the lower cost ammo. I tried that Remington ammo before but I was having detonation reliability problems even though the ammo was accurate enough for bullseye shooting. Remember it is high velocity ammo so once you start cutting coils these rounds shouldn't be shot through your gun until you acquire a high powered spring assy.
You should see a significant jump on your overall performance once you install a red dot sight.
I can confirm Matt's suggestion of CCI Green Tag. That stuff is extremely accurate in my 22/45. BUT....
Let me share a story I heard from a high master bullseye shooter. He toured the CCI plant a few years back. An acquaintance of his is some kind of big-shot at CCI. They spent some time watching the .22 loading machines. It amazed him how fast those things kick out the ammo. Anyhow, the employee of CCI told him that Green Tag is nothing more then select grade Standard Velocity (blue box). The sales of Green Tag is much lower then the blue box. So when the monthly quota for Green is met, it all goes to blue. Even the select grade gets packaged in the blue box. So save your money and buy the blue box stuff. This high master shoots blue box. If it wasn't any good, he wouldn't be a high master.
its a marketing strategy. it sells the same products to a different market of people. some people buy into this some don't ! ex. natural light beer/bud light. cost is appx. $2 a 12-pk more for budweiser. it is marketed to the middle upper to upper class the natural light is marketed to the lower, lower class to the middle class of people.
some will agree and some will disagree. enough said!
I've done some fairly extensive testing with my Mark II Competition model. Using a rest and a red dot sight at 20 yards, the best ammo I have found is CCI Pistol Match. Federal Gold Medal is nearly as accurate, but has suffered from failures to fire in my pistol and several others in my club. The failures happened in two lots of ammo. Nearly as good and much cheaper has been T-22. CCI Blazer also good. Most other bulk ammo sold at promotional prices OK for practice, but clearly not up to the best in terms of accuracy. With my pistol, I've found that cleaning after about 1200-1500 rounds helps maintain reliability. I'd suggest getting an economical brand for practice and using premium ammo for matches. Make sure the sight adjustment does not change, or at least learn what adjustment is needed when you switch between the two types. Again in my pistol, impact point at 20 yards does not seem to change much with different brands. However, I fired some generic "white box" ammo from Olin last week from a rest and it shot about 2.5 inches high from a rest, but seemed about on when I shot in a normal one-hand bullseye grip. Will investigate this more.
Although maybe not popular(not mentioned, that I remember) on this site, I have been using Winchester High Velocity SuperX $1.50/box/50. Out of every 500 rounds(been through 2000 with a new 22/45 over 2 months), I'd say I have gotten an average of 1 or 2 failed-to-fire per 500 . From what I have seen on other sites, the product has moderate accuracy (not the worst by far for the money). Starting out I had bad luck with cheap Remington and Federal.
I'll echo what I hear here , that each gun likes different brands. I think I've been doing ok and intend to stay with what is working for me until I can outperform my machine.
I'm not competitive yet, so I have not tried match grade ammo.
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