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A question of Stowage.

June 21 2012 at 5:08 AM

Calum  (Login elwano)
Missing-Lynx members

Hi all

I've built a few 48 tanks in the past but I'm still really a novice. I'm currently working on a 48th Tamiya Stug III G. I want to try a winter white wash finish. Plus I am going to add a fair bit of stowage, mainly from the Legend set.

[IMG][linked image][/IMG]

My question is when in the process should I attach the stowage, prior to priming paints. or should I assemble everything and then paint the major colours and work on the stowage later? Or should it be a little of both, i.e base colours on the vehicle, but paint much of the stowage off the vehicle.

All and any tips appreciated.

Cheers

Calum

http://a4alley.t35.com/

 
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AuthorReply

David Harmer
(Login nzdavidh)
Missing-Lynx members

Cool subject

June 21 2012, 7:06 AM 

I have one of those in the stash, where did the barrel and etch come from they look great? For what it's worth I'd paint that lot in place but suggest you wait for one of the proper armour modellers to answer

David's Model Pages

David's Model Pages on Facebook -https://www.facebook.com/modelscale

 
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Calum
(Login elwano)
Missing-Lynx members

Etch and Barrel

June 21 2012, 5:05 PM 

Hi David

the Etch is in the legend set as is all the light resin. the darker resin is from a verlinden set. The barrel is from RB models



Cheers

Calum

http://a4alley.t35.com/

 
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Andrew Deeley
(Login deeley)
Missing-Lynx members

painting

June 21 2012, 7:09 AM 

Hi Calum

I'm not the best painter in the world, but here goes.

The answer is really what works best for you. Simple as that.

If you look at the work of the guys on hear you will see that some ie Pat Johnson assemble everthing including stowage and then paint it in situ. Other paint it seperatley and then add after the main paint work but before weathering.

I suggest you look at the in progress pics of the guys here and look how they do there stowage. Then practice useing some old kits.

There are also some books which show how to do things. The Osprey modelling series is good ie Steve Zaloga etc. Check the Osprey web site. Im sure there are u tube step by step gudies as well, but I have not looked.


One idea i have found is
Soft items like canvas, bedding rolls, webbing items are difficult to get the right look as they are soft. So sometimes its best to add these before painting to avoid gaps and that added hard plastic look. Some guys cover the model in cling film ( clear cooking film ). Then add all the stowage using model putty etc ( Not glue, it melts the cling film). The cling film allows the stowage to follow the shape of the tank but stops it sicking to the tank.Once all stowage is palced and fully dry, remove. Then paint the stowage seperatley and glue back on when tank painted. Hope this makes sense as difficult to describe in words !!!

But do general weathering ie dust, mud etc WITH stowage on the tank as it blends the items together.

Generaly I used a combination of all all 3 style, add on before paint, add on after and the above. There no hard and fast rules.

hope this helps.

andrew


 
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Calum
(Login elwano)
Missing-Lynx members

Thanks Andrew

June 21 2012, 5:06 PM 

I understood your explaination re the use of cling film

Cheers

Calum

http://a4alley.t35.com/

 
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Roman Volchenkov
(Login Bizarre616)
Missing-Lynx members

it depends...

June 21 2012, 7:11 AM 

I dont see a problem in painting it separately, with the stowage attached it would be difficult to make chipping and peeling of white wash on the rear wall of the superstructure. And it is easier to correct the stowage painting if you are not satisfied with the look while it is not attached.

http://roman-bizarre.blogspot.com/

 
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Calum
(Login elwano)
Missing-Lynx members

Thanks Roman n/t

June 21 2012, 5:07 PM 


 
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Konrad Schreier
(Login koschrei)
Missing-Lynx members

Both Ways, Depending Calum

June 21 2012, 11:05 AM 

In my experience, for stowage that has to be closely fitted to the model, attaching it during the build avoids the dreaded "floating stowage blight" - I used to add it all at the end, but a few rounds of AMPS judging and I learned that it's a lot better to get a tight fit and deal with the painting issues.

If you are concerned with trying to paint complex stowage piles on the model, although it doesn't look as sexy in your build photographs, you can prepaint the basic colors on the stowage items before attaching them to the unpainted model during the build, mask them during the painting phase and then go back and finish painting them in the same manner as unpainted attached stowage after the basic colors of the model are on.

For things that can be fitted and removed with confidence that they will go back on without any gaps - which might even be a complex stowage pile mounted on a relatively simple surface, I leave them loose and paint them separately because it easier to get a crisp finish. By way of example, on my Pz. III H project the hull MG, jerry cans, folded tarp, large fender stowage box, tow cables, spare track and spare road wheels are all still loose to make painting easier.

HTH

Konrad

 
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Calum
(Login elwano)
Missing-Lynx members

thanks Konrad n/t

June 21 2012, 5:09 PM 


 
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Owen R Auer
(Login mailman7777777)
Missing-Lynx members

Whatever is easier

June 22 2012, 11:12 AM 

I built a Pershing, not yet painted. All of the resin pieces I drill a hole into and placed tiny magnets.
I also placed magnets in the tank. Now I can remove and replace the stowage for painting or if I get tired of the tank and use it on another.

Owen
Just recently one of our great Politicians is proposing a bill to ban tiny magnets as children are swallowing them.
Like they won't just swallow something else?

 
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