I just tried to get through the MOT-test.. it was no success: I need to change the windscreen, the right front "fuseekogel" (fusion ball??, a round ball in the suspension in the front wheel), and the rubber things around the front shafts are perforated....
I can do the fusion ball and the windscreen myself, but I don't think I can change the rubber things. It will cost me about NLG 250 = EUR 110 .. Anyone who has changed this things himself?
Greetings,
Maarten
Scoring disabled. You must be logged in to score posts.
I replaced the windscreen today. I found a R9 windscreen at a scrapyard with only some tiny scratches, for EUR 20. With help from a friend I got it in place; I hope it is water-resistant.. Tomorrow I'll take a look at the other problems.
Greetings from Enschede,Holland.
Scoring disabled. You must be logged in to score posts.
Funny Maarten, also my balljoints failed on MOT (bij Kroonband aan de Hengelose). I guess you already know Eijsink, Grintenbosweg in Haaksbergen. fl 75,- ex per hour is niet really expensive.
New balljoints costed me fl 85,- each at the Renault Specialist in Oud-Beijerland plus labour...
According to Haynes, replacing the rubber cover on the drifshaft is doable yourself. I had one of mine changed at Snuverink in Borculo. i guess you really need a bridge and tools to remove the shafts, then you can replace the rubbers. It is really bad news by the way. If dirt gets into the homokineet(?), it will wear and result in very bad vibrations.
Succes,
John
Scoring disabled. You must be logged in to score posts.
A 'fuseekogel' is a balljoint? OK, I just learned another English word. Today I tried to remove the wheel from the shaft but it's very difficult to turn the bolt on the shaft. I'll take my R11 to TST, IJsbaanweg in Enschede (near Munsterhuis) they'll fix the rubbers around the shaft for NLG 125 each side. I tried to mount a new balljoint but I couldn't turn that bolts too. But it's easy to place a new balljoint when the shafts are already out of the car so I think the TST-guy won't ask a lot for placing it.
I'm afraid the 'homokineet' on the left side is already slightly worn. The holes in the rubber look very ugly. I hear tickles from the left front wheel, especially when turning.. But the car still drives.
Groeten, Maarten
Scoring disabled. You must be logged in to score posts.
Why don't you just buy a second hand driveshaft at a scrapeyard.(For example Holtrop in Oudehaske). This costs about f 50,-. Then you have a good shaft with a good rubber. It is easy to change a driveshaft yourself.
Bye
Scoring disabled. You must be logged in to score posts.
You did it yourself? I saw the guy at Snuverink (Renault/Peugeot/Citroen)scrapyard do it. It's not difficult but you'll need good big tools to loosen al rusty bolts and nuts and so on. Fl 50,- for a good shaft is really cheap. It costed me about 230,- for a good shaft including assembling. The shaft itself was f 125,- or so.
Oudehaske, to bad it's in Friesland and not in Twente... By the way Maarten, Eijsink is a Renault scrapyard/occasion BOVAG shop.
Scoring disabled. You must be logged in to score posts.
Ga nooit naar Sanderink in Hengelo. Wat een eikels. Binnen de 3 maanden BOVAG de multiriem op de 19 vervangen. Vervolgens op de A1 met kokende motor gestaan omdat de dynamo niet goed vast zat!
Dan blijkt de motor opeens in te houden. Ze hebben er twee keer naar gezocht, maar niets kunnen vinden. U moet er maar mee leren leven meneer. Via Eijsink bij Bloo in Neede tercht gekomen. Probleem gevonden. Lekspanning van 3V op signaal tussen kat en injectie. 3,75 uur werk dus een rekening van 435,-
Ik naar Sanderink terug. Geen excuses, niets. Verwijt dat ik zonder iets te zeggen naar Bloo gedaan ben en al helemaal niets betalen. Wat een slechte service, voortaan ga ik wel naar Munsterhuis. eens kijken of ik via de BOVAG Sanderink kan laten dokken, ze hebben simpelweg gefaald.
Scoring disabled. You must be logged in to score posts.
Hi, can't you get reconditioned drive shafts from a spares shop? I recently changed the clutch on my nine, and soon afterwards the right hand shaft started vibrating like crazy. When I was accelerating up a hill, it felt like the engine wanted to fall out! We can get a reconditioned shaft with guarantee for 70 euros here in Portugal. I got one, but it was a slightly different length, so I had to take it back. They offered to get another one, but I would have had to wait a week, and I needed the car for work, so I ended up with a good one from a scrapyard which cost me 35 euros. I don't know how that compares with the prices you guys were talking about, because I don't know the exchange rate for Nlg or Fl. What are your prices like in euros?
BTW, it is easy to change, you just need a good piece of pipe to put on the spanner to loosen the nut.
Good luck,
Vic in Portugal.
Scoring disabled. You must be logged in to score posts.
If the outer constant velocity (=homokinetic) joint already is defective and is making noises, I'd think twice before having that split rubber boot replaced and the same (defective) driveshaft refitted.
It is a lot easier/faster for you or a paid mechanic to simply replace the defective shaft with a new or reconditioned one. Even if the new/reconditioned shaft itself isn't the cheapest alternative, the end result isn't necessarily much more expensive than if the mechanic spends time on replacing the rubber boot on the used shaft. In the long run you'd probably have to replace that defective driveshaft at some point anyway, so why pay for the job twice? Besides, play at the joint can cause vibration which can lead to premature failure of some related part...
As for a recommendable driveshaft manufacturer/reconditioner, I'd say original Renault is always a safe choice whether new or reconditioned, however in most cases they're the most expensive option. The ones they will usually sell you are in fact reconditioned shafts, even if Renault (at least here in Finland) seems to "forget" to mention that to their customers... You can also demand a completely new driveshaft for most models, but their prices usually aren't very affordable.
A reasonably priced new non-original driveshaft comes from GKN/Löbro, their quality seems to be good.
As for non-original reconditioned driveshafts, there are many companies offering these. However, I'd advise to stay away at least from a French reconditioned shaft reconditioned by Depauto (or Depa). Their reconditioning methods don't seem to be up to the task, and my relatives who run a company specialized in Peugeot/Renault spares decided to move to new GKN/Löbro shafts because there were so many complaints about the Depauto quality...
For those hard to open nuts/bolts: Besides soaking them with some WD40, CRC, etc. penetrating oil, try heating them with a blowtorch or a hot air gun. The heat usually does the trick.
Scoring disabled. You must be logged in to score posts.
At this moment my car is being fixed; not the driveshaft, only the rubber boots and the balljoint.
They will put the rubber boots around the shafts, without dismounting the shafts (special kind of rubber boots). This way, replacing of the rubber boots is less expensive. In about an hour I will collect my car; then I'll ask them about the condition of the homokinetic. When I can drive another year with it, I'm content. I hope I've more money when I really have to replace the homokinetic. (the noise is not that bad)
Greetings, Maarten.
Scoring disabled. You must be logged in to score posts.
.. Anyone who has changed this things himself?
