After thorough check all those pictures sent by Juha (I appreciate that) I found more difficulties
At my carb doesn't exist "Idle cut-off selenoid", some "heater". Not found too defuming valve and float chamber vent. Many hoses out of carb at pictures at mine I found only one (advance vacuum).
Actually my carb is same but in same time different.
May be because my car is form '85 or in previous time big intervention but now I am in difficulty.
Please wizards help me I need some info concernig right mixture adjustign, floating level checking and right position. And deffuming valve adjusting (I havent) at this place I have some arm which pulling back pushes accelerating pump to spray, if it moves forward it closes some hole at the top which is concerned with floatong chamber ventilation.

Can somebody help !!!?!??!

BTW does anybody know good Weber model to exchange with slight modifications and at which cars is used ?

Actually earlier F2N engines of R9/11 were fitted with a Weber 32 DRTM carburettor. For some reason, I've always felt Webers to be better carbs than Solexes, maybe because I have such good experiences of one in my R12.

So, the source to look for a replacing Weber is an earlier R9/11 with an F2N. I don't know whether it uses different manifold or throttle linkages or air filter from the Solex, best you check it when purchasing (if the carb is still fitted to an engine).

Actually, a 32 DRTM can also be found from C2J 1397cc cars, but they use a slightly different jetting. If I've understood the repair manual right, then the Webers used in C2Js should be of subtype '0/0C' while those in F2Ns are '1/1C'. Besides different primary and secondary jets (100/140 vs. 105/130), these two types differ in choke and throttle butterfly openings, but these should be just a matter of adjustment. The difficult-to-change parts like venturis are identical.

Just as for Solexes, you should also check Webers to ensure that the carb base isn't warped. This is often caused by overheating or (more usually) overtightening the carb mounting bolts. Another problem can be sticking throttle butterfly axles, but that can usually be cured by adjusting and/or giving the axles a careful treatment with fine grade sandpaper.

As I decided (in predvious time) to buy one Weber from 1.4. But I had to ask whether it can deliver same power and torque as Solex at F2N ? And the other when I bye some old carb I plan first to check it. Please advise some technique which can help me to find some problems when I test or some tricks (You are more experienced in 1.4:))))

Well, I'm not especially talented mechanically but I've successfully stripped and overhauled a few carbs, so here's my two pennies' worth:


I too always check and clean carbs when I've bought a used car or a used carb. I would never trust a carb just to be "probably ok" and just bolt it on. Even if the carb turns out to be ok, then at least I can be sure any problem I may experience probably hasn't got with the carb to do!

Before anything else, test that there isn't excessive play in the throttle butterfly spindles. Also check the carb base for distortion. If either exists in extensive amounts, then it may not be wise to spend time and money on that carburettor.

I'd suggest buying a carburettor overhaul kit for the Weber. It contains seals, gaskets, needle valve and acccelerator pump diaphragm. Needle valves wear with time and can get stuck and the accelerator pump diaphragm gets tired so throttle response won't be as it should be. Those kits shouldn't cost much (well, maybe directly from Renault they do!), usually they're between 20-30 euros.

Besides the accelerator pump diaphragm, there's usually one or two more diaphragms in a carb. In Webers the other is a separate choke flap pneumatic opening device, the other sits in the carb body. I don't know what this latter one does. However, these diaphragms aren't usually contained in overhaul kits, but it may be wise to get them separately from Renault. If these diaphragms are tired, then the engien may stall at idle when it's only half warm or the idle revs may fluctuate.

Needless to say, cleanliness is everything when working with carbs. When reassembling, be extra careful not to overtighten anything or strip threads. If that happens, it usually means a new carburettor is needed. When completely stripping a carb, it's also amazingly easy to forget how all those littse washers and levers should go back. So make drawings when disassembling.


I don't know any "tricks" when it comes to carburettors. If everything is clean, all passages positively open and all seals and gaskets and diaphragms and valves renewed and everything adjusted to correct tolerances, and a problem still persists, then the carb's just probably had it (e.g. passages just worn too much). There's not much more that a "do-it-yourselfer" can do to it.

Dear Renault freaks,

in my Garage is a Renault 11 in a very good condition exept some serious mistakes. I got the car like a construction kit from a friend as a present.
Only 67000km in fifteen years it was running. The last two years the R11 Automatic stood in my backyard.

Now it's up to me to find out how to mount the carburettor parts and weld one broken lever.

If one of you wood be so kind and send this explosion drawings and maybe the partlist to the following address :
rifix@t-online.de


Lobo