PPD in Hair Dye
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Wella Color Charm with TDS

May 31 2010 at 11:12 AM
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ppdphobe  (Login ppdphobe)

I am providing this information in case it helps anyone else who is looking for an alternative to PPD-based hair dyes and is wanting to try a TDS product. I've been coloring my hair myself for about 20 years now.

I have to start by saying that I am NOT allergic to PPD yet. However, the PPD allergy runs in my family and I am highly sensitive to a number of cosmetic ingredients.

Based on Gina's experiences with TDS (see some of the related posts from last year), I've stopped using hair color with PPD and switched to temporary dyes and TDS-based hair dyes. I've had mixed results with non-permanent dyes since my natural hair color is black, so I find that I periodically have to use an oxidative dye to get a natural look and counteract the purple from the temporary dyes.

Over the past year I have used Wella Color Charm demi-permanent hair color. It is a deposit-only color and its results are permanent on me. Wella Color Charm is available at Sally Beauty Supply stores throughout the US. Here are the ingredients for the 3N Dark Natural Brown (the color I use):
*Water, cetearyl alcohol, ethanolamine, laureth-3, sodium laureth sulfate, glyceryl stearate SE, toluene-2,5,-diamine sulfate, sodium sulfate, lanolin alcohol, sodium lauryl sulfate, hydroxyetheyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline HCL, beeswax, sodium cocoyl isethionate, 2-methylresorcinol, fragrance, sodium sulfite, m-aminophenol, ascorbic acid, etidronic acid, hydrolyzed keratin, limonene, coumarin, tocopherol*

Please note that some of the shades in the Wella Color Charm line do contain PPD, so you have to check the labels. There are other brands that use TDS as well; Wella is just one option. Unfortunately, TDS is not a panacea. If you are allergic to PPD, you may be allergic to TDS also, although TDS appears to be less allergenic that PPD or PTD. For what it's worth, on the Skin Deep site, TDS rates a 5 while PPD rates a 10 for toxicity. As with any hair color, you MUST patch test...even though patch testing is not fool proof.

I prefer the Wella demi-permanent hair color because it has a smaller ingredient list and doesn't contain ammonia or resorcinol (the fewer sensitizers, the better since I'm so allergy prone).

Also, I do not use the Wella Color Charm activator because I find it too heavily perfumed--combined with the fragrance in the hair dye itself, the scent is too much for me. I am sensitive to fragrance and I try to limit how much gets on my skin. Instead, I use a 10 volume fragrance free Salon Care developer (also available at Sallys). I have a tough time tolerating higher volumes of peroxide so I try to use the lowest percentage of peroxide that I can. By the way, the Wella Color Charm and Salon Care developer combined cost me less than $8 (I can dye my hair twice with one tube of Wella), which is really quite inexpensive.

I mix it at a 1:1.5 ratio of color to developer (you can mix at a 1:1 ratio for more permanent results and at a 1:2 ratio for more semi-permanent results). I prefer using a bowl and brush for application because it allows greater control, so I add less developer to create a thicker mixture. I'm afraid to get too much on my skin, but since I color my own hair, I'm still learning how to limit the skin exposure. I shampoo two or three times immediately after I rinse out the dye, so as to leave as little dye as possible on my skin and hair.

I find the 3N turns my hair black initially and then fades to a deep rich dark brown. It looks very natural on me. I'm learning to not be perfectionistic and to not cover every gray strand on my head. Instead, I'm moving toward creative camouflage, using temporary dyes and bleach to add subtle dimension/highlights and limit how often I dye my hair with TDS.

I know that I could become allergic to TDS so I try to exercise caution till a better option is found. Hearing Gina's results with PPD-allergic clients makes me hopeful that I may be able to tolerate TDS longer, but I guess I'll never be without this nagging fear of allergy...

 
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AuthorReply

(Login beanner468)

Great advice!

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June 5 2010, 11:16 PM 

PPD Phobe,

This is all great advice! Thank you for the nod, I am humbled. One thing I wanted to mention to you, the PPD is a cumulative allergen or intolerance to our system. The dye you are using is not. TDS is some how not cumulative. I have not had it explained to me why this is, but if I find out why, I will post it here. So you are supposed to be okay with this dye. Let's hope things stay solid!!
Gina

 
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Jo
(Login jo13)

Wella in the UK

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June 10 2010, 4:13 AM 

Hi
I managed to find a local salon that does Wella with TDS. I rang to enquire and explained my allergy, the girl I spoke to had done a patch test on a friend with a PPD allergy and she had had a severe reation, so not sure if I want to try it yet. To be honest I find using anything scary:) I have patch tested pallete by nature which was fine, but have not used it yet.
I have a shelf full of different natural colours I haven't tried yet lol.

love Jo xx

 
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(Login beanner468)

Double Patch Test!!

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June 10 2010, 9:31 AM 

First, I am very sorry that your friend had an allergic reaction, we all know how uncomfortable that is! Second, I hope that it was with the patch test!! I ALWAYS do a double patch test. It is often with the second exposure that people will react, so this is the most important test!! Remember, Touline Diamine Sulfate is SAFER than PPD, but it is NOT by any means SAFEST. That is why we still must do a DOUBLE PATCH TEST.
Third, why on earth would you be scared? You take a Q-tip, dab some color mixed with the developer, on your fore arm, the size of a pea, and leave it on for at least 10 minutes. (I will only go longer if it is tolerated...)If it feels like it is burning, take it off. No harm done. In that small of an amount, diluted with the developer, you will know straight away if you are going to react. The area is small enough to control, and not large enough to have full blown anaphalactic shock before you can get your epi pen, if you are that severely allergic. (I deal with people that allergic all the time)
Try not to let fear of hair color interact with the tiny aspect of patch testing. It is to keep you safe!
Gina

 
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ppdphobe
(Login ppdphobe)

Further cautions

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June 11 2010, 11:03 AM 

Jo,

I too am sorry to hear about your friend's reaction. As Gina points out, TDS is less allergenic than PPD, but that does not mean that TDS is non-allergenic to everyone.

I also have to warn that just because it is Wella and contains TDS, it could also contain PPD. Wella makes many different products and brands, and they do NOT consistently use the same ingredients in any given product line.

Wella makes a Color Charm permanent liquid line that contains PPD. Even the Wella Color Charm Demi Permanent line that I'm using is not always PPD-free. Some of the demi perm colors DO contain it. You have to read the labels and be aware of the ingredients used.

Honestly, this is one of the reasons that I color my hair myself. I have found that most hairdressers have no clue about PPD, PTD, TDS or its numerous forms and names. As others have noted on this site, it is very difficult to find hairstylists who really understand the PPD allergy and can recommend intelligent or safer alternatives. Even the clerks at Sally's look at me vacant-eyed when I mention PPD. I've spent countless hours in store aisles, notepad in hand, checking ingredients and then researching online.

All this to underscore--check the full ingredient list (even at a salon) and do the double patch tests as Gina recommends. Good luck!




 
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Madison
(Login Manhattenlady)

Question about TDS

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June 10 2010, 5:40 PM 

I've noticed that the Wella Color Charm and some of the colors in Clairol Natural Instincts Cream have TDS, but that these products do not lift/lighten hair color; they only deposit color. Are there any products with TDS (without PPD or PTD) that can lighten the hair (besides peroxide)? Or is TDS only used in products that deposit haircolor and are temporary?
Thanks

 
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(Login beanner468)

Re: Question about TDS

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June 10 2010, 9:16 PM 

Yes! Just keep reading the different boxes/brands. The wella Koleston does have lift, The wella has a separate line for the deposit only. This is the salon version. If you get it, don't forget to patch test twice, then wait 48 hours, and then place a dot behind your ear while you are mixing and setting up. If you don't react while you set up, you are golden.

Gina

 
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Madison
(Login Manhattenlady)

For Gina

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June 13 2010, 12:15 PM 

Thanks Gina.
Yeah, I'm reading all the different brands in the store, and this week I'm going to check out Sally's Beauty Supplies. I guess if I wanted to try Wella Koleston, I'd have to look for it on line or find a local beautician who uses it in their salon. So far I haven't found one who does--or is willing to order it. But I'll keep looking!
Madison

 
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(Login beanner468)

Madison...

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June 13 2010, 8:39 PM 

Hi Madison! I just thought of something that I could have mentioned before. call the local beauty supply, and ask what salons in your area carry/use Koleston. It would make the search easier. It takes the guesswork out of it. Each area usually has 2 or 3 supply houses, so you may need to make a couple of phone calls, but not nearly as many as if you were going the other way around. Once you have found a salon, if you feel comfortable on the phone with the people there, stop in, say hello, check it out. THEN make an appointment for the double patch testing, NO MATTER what they say, OKAY?

Other than that, keep up the looking at Sally's. If you go with Wella Color Charm in a white box, it is a little lighter than what the swatch looks like, so pick a bit darker. I am going on memory as to the name, I am not at the shop, just on the couch on a Sunday night. I am guessing on the name, but the box color was white. happy.gif

Good luck!!
Gina

 
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Madison
(Login Manhattenlady)

Hi, Gina.......

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June 14 2010, 2:54 PM 

Thanks for the advice and information; I appreciate it and will follow suit. And you can BET I'm gonna double patch test. Thanks again.........Madison

 
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(Login sunjunkie)

reacted to TDS :-(

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October 18 2010, 8:18 AM 

I patch tested the Wella Color Charm last night and today the area is itchy and swollen. Rats!! I was so excited about TDS as an alternative since Gina's clients have used it so successfully. But my dermatologist did say that if you are severely allergic to PPD (as I am), the TDS probably won't work.

Ugh. Maybe I'll try a dark brown Sharpie?

Jeanne

 
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(Login beanner468)

sorry...

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October 21 2010, 9:10 PM 

Well, I did just read about a new sight. I will be checking it out, I read about it on facebook. It had all natural Henna, and how you could use other things to change it from red, like indigo, and make black. I will let everyone know what I find out.

Also, you were allergic to the Elumen as well, right? What color is your hair, and what color are you trying to achieve? This will make a differance.

Gina

 
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(Login sunjunkie)

answers...

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October 21 2010, 10:22 PM 

I didn't react to the Elumen but my hair is very dark brown and I am just trying to cover gray. From what I've heard/read Elumen probably won't do it, plus it washes out quickly. I swim and run so I wash my hair almost daily.

Looking forward to your info! Thanks!

 
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(Login beanner468)

Elumen

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October 25 2010, 1:47 PM 

The Elumen can be done so it will not wash out, but there are a few things that need to be done. The first thing is a double patch test to be sure you will not react. The second thing is just a recommendation, but I would try it on a chunk of hair, and see how it does. You will need to bake the heck out of it under the dryer, this is how it gets to be permanent. also, pre-bleaching makes it stain as well, but you may not need it. Have the salon call the color hotline, or take a class for staying power.

e-mail me if you want extra info
beanner468@aol.com

 
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(Login J48)

wella ingredients

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November 1 2010, 9:59 AM 

Ethanolamine is ammonia.... I no longer have the article I read about that but you can probably google it.


 
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(Login J48)

wella ingredients

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November 1 2010, 10:01 AM 

Ethanolamine is ammonia.... I no longer have the article I read about that but you can probably google it.


 
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(Login J48)

Wella ingredients

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November 1 2010, 11:27 AM 

I tried but I can't find the original article I read on ethanolamine.

I did find this:

Ethanolamine is an alternative to ammonia, however when ethanolamine is used in hair color in order to gain 'ammonia-free' status, it needs to be included in concentrations up to 5 times that of ammonia. Ethanolamine is an 'adhesive' type chemical, which can never completely be washed out of your hair and off your scalp. After coloring your hair with ethanolamine-containing products, every time you wash your hair the water acts as a mild oxidizer, inflicting further damage on your hair. Fading and gradually developed dryness after coloring the hair are usually attributable to ethanolamine.

dang!! and I just used loreal's "Healthy Looks" which has guess what in it?

 
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(Login beanner468)

New Loreal Color

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November 1 2010, 11:44 AM 

I am going to pat you on the back on this one! I had already checked this out long before the color was released to the public. We had no intentions of using this, or offering this in the salon, or recommending this product. It turns out it is much worse for your system than using ammonia, and is more damaging to the hair. I had gotten my hands on the stats from the European Union's testing information. I can probably look through my links and see if the link is still viable. Often times, when the product launches, they are not available any more though. I find that they publish much more of the information over there than here. There, I can see every tiny bit of the testing. Even how many people were used for the control group.

G

 
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(Login J48)

Re: New Loreal Color

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November 1 2010, 1:17 PM 

I am so annoyed at myself for not paying attention to ingredients. I used Feria before the Healthy looks and I don't even know what was in that one. I will say that both gave me beautiful color, but at what expense to my health???

What's really aggravating about all the no ammonia ones is that they put huge letters on the box "NO AMMONIA" but forget to let you know that the substitue for the ammonia is far worse for your hair and your health.

 
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(Login sunjunkie)

Labeling

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November 1 2010, 3:56 PM 

I agree, it is SO annoying and also dangerous how misleading the labels can be. I have seen probably a dozen products labeled PPD-FREE that have PTD or TDS. Yes, technically they don't have PPD, but they have a chemical that is just as dangerous for those of us who have severe allergies. I reacted worse to a TDS product path test than one with PPD! And a henna product I tried that is labeled "hypoallergenic" has artificial dyes. Like Gina says, read and patch!!

 
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