Use this board for anything you like as long as it pertains to Honda and Acura cars. Try and keep the conversation friendly and keep the "flame wars" to a minimum. This board will stay up as long as people can follow the rules and be civil. I will check the board and delete messages that are either out of date, offensive or not Honda/Acura related but other than that your on your own.
Flashing Drive(D4) light on dash
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Hello all...When in put my car in the drive gear, the drive light is flashing and the speedometer is jumping all around the place. Is this the cars way of alerting that the speedometer is going out? Has anyone had this problem b4?
Hello
My 1996 Honda Accord is doing the same exact thing. My light is blinking and my speedometer is jumping around and my car is jerking when I accelarate. Although I have no idea what the hell is going on; you aren't the only one who is experiancing these problems.
Crystal
Hi, my check engine light, not the maintenance light, came on recently durring a trip to the coast and the gas cap is not the problem, i was wondering what all the possible things that could make it turn on because i'd like to check them all my self before getting shanked by a dealer.
Did you find out any more about your problem with the Honda Passport problem? I am having a similar problem, but the diagnostics point to catalytic converter on the passenger side. Yet when I had the flow checked on both sides, there was no restrictions. My "Check Engine Light" will clear, but when I get gas, it returns.
i was installing a tach in my hb when a friend of mine shorted out two wires. they go to the back of the gauge cluster and i think they hook up to the tach on the si. the car was running at the time, then shut of when the two touched. i get no spark and can not smell any fuel. i changed the coil, and ignitor. is there a fuse? i checked the ones under the fuse box and engine compartment. i cant think of anything else that it could be. power does get to the dist. but not to plugs.
I have a 2001 honda civic si and im having my problems with my idle. when i start the car cold it will not go under 1000 rpm. it will stay around 1300 rpm and just sit there. i checked for several things so far and still nothing. i changed the throttle body from an ls integra and still same problem. I even sparyed throttle body cleaner where the throttle cable connects to the throttle body (bronze spring) and it idles perfect (of course once i stop spraying) it goes back to 1300 rpm. please someone help me..is it safe to run my car or do i need to check it out asap.
Can someone help me out here. I installed a new clutch in my 1988 Acura legend .I turned the flywheel and bled the system. And my pedal is almost to the floor. Cant shift into reverse and am grinding gears. Well. I bled the brakes myself with one of those vacuum type pumps.Would that make a difference from someone pumping the pedal? I guess i'll try it that way next. But it just seems like theres nothing. The pedal doesnt come back up very far , Just hangs there. There no adj on this either. I tried under the dash but it wouldnt budge.Near the sensor switch, and dint want to break anything. Besides that pedal adj seems minimal compared to what I need.
Any one have this happen??? Any Ideas??
What are you bleeding? Clutch or brakes? -pls. clarify
Assuming it's the clutch, in my experience having someone in the car while you work the bleeder screw is best!!!
Remember that the slave cylinder (if new or left sitting a while) will have ZERO fluid in it. So you need to work the fluid all the way through the system.
Have persone in car work the pedal (will need to use his/her hand at first) to move the pedal 'to the floor' and 'up' Those are the 'commands' I use, so that we both know when to do what. When you open the bleeder, say 'to the floor' and then tighten then say 'up'
you can also try the pump and hold method. then while the in car-guy is holding the pedal down, unleash the flow!! but be careful as brake/clutch fluid is very bad to get in your eye, it hurts, just ask me how i know.
The more the bleeding process progresses the farthur off teh floor the pedal will rise. Make sure you don't stop till it is just right. Should have maybe about an inch or less of free play before you can 'feel' the clutch releasing.
my heater core hose went out then i started it and no antifreeze so i filled it and it started but when i gave it gas it died and just cranks but i checked the relay the distributor but that hose was right under the distributor but everything was checked voltage wise and the spark plugs are getting spark so what is it please help
Happen very easily on these cars, especially the higher mileage ones. If you are starting, especially from a cold start, the motor is in a cold start 'loop' where it gives the engine a rich mixture until the motor completely warms up. If you are starting and you are used to hearing: crank...crank.. fire (car starts) but accidentaly in a hury only did crank ... cra/ and it din't start before you let go of the key. now you have a whole bunch of unburned gas in the motor and it will just have to sit there until that gas evaporates. (hapens to racecars when tuning then, all the time)
STOP, WAIT, before you crank away again, turn the key to off and put you foot to the floor and lod it there, this will help the over abundance of fuel evaporate. Maybe a minute or two. if you have tryed to start your car lots of times in a row, since it did this, it will only get worse, and worse.
The best solution is to leave it sit.
PS; No you can';t flood you air filter!!! the fuel injectors are way to far down steam of the air filter! and besides, this is imposible until gas learns to fly: IE: the design of the intake manifold curvs down towards the intake port to the engine. Secondly, the whole works is capped off be the throttle anyways and I Hope you never ever, try to start a fuel injected car with the gas-pedal to the foor!!
Not trying to piss anyone off, just that's how it is.
Hi,
I just purchased a '92 Honda Accord a couple of months ago and it has been a great car, but one thing I am concerned about is when I first start the car, it idles pretty rough and jumps a good bit until I start moving. It also does this sometimes when I stop at a red light. Does anyone else have this problem or know if this is normal or what I can fdo to fix this.
Does your car warm up in the normal range and stay there? I had the same problem,jumping idle when cold and at stop signs. Your computer gets put back into cold start mode if the temp goes too low.
on the right of the valve cover in the middle theres a thumb screw thing but i think it might be broken off but while its running i can hold my hand over it and air is blowing out of it the valve cover isnt cracked but when i get my rpms over 4 or 5 it shoots oil to the roof of my hood and this stared happening when i changed oils from regular to half synthetic so am i losing compression or would this restrict oil someware ? it doesnt burn any oil and the oil level does stay at the level for the most part is this a big problem?
I have been driving my Accord for about 2 years now. I have about 125,000 miles on it. A couple of moths ago, I was driving it and it died in me. Then that damn check engine light came on. Now when that light comes on, the engine won't rev over 3 and a half grand. I have tried cleaning the excess carbon build-up in the egr valve using carburator cleaner. I have replaced the O2 sensor (that was $105, plus a $15 deposit for the special socket to take the O2 sensor out). But the check engine light still comes on. WHAT THE FUCK!?!?!? If anyone out there has an answer, could you please HELP????????!!!!!!!!!!
Just becuse you cleaned the egr? doesn't mean it'll work after. There is a sensor over the valve that takes a reading of the valve opening upon acceleration. If the egr, not the pcv, valve is malf. and you changed your o2 sensor it might just be that. Let me know.
Just had to replace battery and alternator in 2000 Honda Civic. Also, had problems with idle and had to have the heat shield put on and muffler cover taken off. Has anyone else had so many problems with Hondas? Very disappointed - this is my first and last Honda. Only 50,000 miles on it.
The muffler rattles and my engin light is always on. I changed the oxygen sensors 2 times, according the computer diagnostic and the problem is not fixed. Car still shakes and stalls. I don't know what to do becuase Honda says there's no recall for my model. The problem started just after 45,000 miles. Also, my alarm deploys on it's own. When I open the driver's side door the car doesn't realize it and I may forget my headlight on since I don't get the beeping noise to remind me. It's really crazy because I don't drive erratically and have always had regular maintenance. I wish there is a recall to get back all my wasted money on repairs and maybe even a replacement vehicle.
I am trying to help my friend out with his honda accord i think it is a 89? anyway, it has the flip up headslights and they go up ok even after i turn them back down but they never go down automaticly anymore. they stay up all the time. anyone know what could be causing this? how can i fix it?
THANKS
i have a 93 accord se 2dr
the passenger window worked fine,
then it got a finger rolled up in it and suddenly wouldn't go down.
the finger got out fine(window was poped out of the track at the top for that).
ok after the whole finger thing i got the window completely in the track and for awhile it worked very roughly and shortly after that it never worked again.
you hit the switch (driver and passenger side) and nothing happens.
any ideas?
i have no clue, and no money to take it to honda for repair.
buy a window regulator from ebay.com for about $50 and get the manual book out. the manual book gives you all the information about the installment of anything. i think you don't have to go to the dealer for this, you could do it for yourself.
i bought this car last summer so i don't know if the spoiler is stock or not (i'm guessing its not because of the rear window light). rear window light works but the spoiler light does not. anyone know how to get this light to come one????????
I've been reading the messages posted in this forum and for the most part they are the same things over and over again. Well i have a problem that's not so typical, my car, a 1995 Acura Integra 4 cyl., has compression in the radiator. As soon as you crank the engine, the radiator gets a reverse pressure test from the engine. If you try to start it with the radiator cap off it erupts water out the neck until it's empty. I know it's probably a cracked head gasket next to a water jacket. What i need to know is, is there anyone out there that has had this problem and fixed it themselves? I need to know if there is an easier way to remove the head than what the manual says. It says to remove the intake and exhaust manifolds, besides the fuel rail and injectors plus a lot of other crap.Any help would be appreciated.
I have replaced the master switch on the driver side. That controls the driver and passenger side perfectly. The passenger side window switch only rolls window down and not up. I can raise it with the driver side switch. I replaced the passenger side swutcg and still the same problem... Any ideas what could fix this problem?
I have a 91 civic with a 1.5 liter and an automatic. It has an intermittent problem with the engine bogging down and idling rough. The fuel system has been gone through, replaced the pump and filter, checked the fuel relay, good, and swapped the throttle body for one of the same year make and model. The entire exhaust, from the manifold back has been replaced, to eliminate the cat from the equation. The problem is not consistent. One minute it's running fine and the next it's trying to die or has no power. Sometimes the check engine light comes on sometimes it doesn't. If it comes on it seems to clear up for a while. I haven't been able to check the codes when it happens yet, so I don't know if it's holding a code for a problem. If anyone has had a similar problem or has any suggestions they would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Daniel
i have a 90 acura integra ls [[ automatic ]] i can start the car.. and put it in drive but as i drive the car it idles really high and will only shift the first gear. lets say i am going 40 mph the idle will read 4k.. i dont know whats going on but if u have an idea of what it can be or you yourself have had this problem please e-mail me and let me know what i can do to solve it THANKS
My 98 civic recently had a new distributor installed and now it idles great except for when I go into neutral while driving. When I do that the RPMs drop to 200-300 then come back up to about 700-800. If I rev the engine and I'm not moving the RPMs drop to 700-800 and stay. Any ideas?
I have developed this same stupid engine light thing. Since the prevailing wisdom seems to suggest it's likely an O2 sensor...is there a specific code the diagnostic computer will spit out that relates directly to the O2 sensor being faulty?
On random cold mornings my 95 Honda Civic just wont start! It cranks and cranks, but no go! The tank is full and above all, I just drove it last night! When it decides to start, it runs like a top! It has never failed me in the past! NEVER! It's got 152k miles now.
Could the fuel pump be going bad? Is the ignition system failing? Clogged injectors perhaps?
The car cranks fine. In fact, the battery has never failed me. (I live in California) The engine just wont fire-up. If I wait till the afternoon, when the day warms up. It'll start just fine and without hesitation!
Its the main/starter relay... common with hondas...
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Yep, i've had the same problem,.. When you first turn on the ignition, all the way without starting the car, you should see some lights on the dash turn on and hear the fuel pump in the back turn on,, then it shuts off after a few seconds, and a light on the dash should turn off at the same time,, i think its the oil light or battery,, one of those..
the relay is somewhere under the dash by the fuse box.
I remember seeing how to repair one somewhere on the net. might wana try to do a search. otherwise pay 60-70 bucks for a new one.
Problems usually show around 80k-100k..
150k is great!! I have a 93' 4door. i belive the first year they came out with that body style. Which is simalar to your honda..
My Honda is at 290,000!!!! belive it or not.. she's taken care of me. I did all major tune ups my self.. timing belts, brakes, valves etc. She's never been in the shop, cept the time my sister crashed her. But other than that, all I pay for is gas and oil..
Quick question. Does this starter relay keep it from starting up? Or keep the starter from cranking? My starter cranks fine when I turn the key, but the engine wont fire. In fact it happened again this morning! She'll probably start this afternoon when the day warms up. I need to get this fixed. I do all my maintenance too, but I've never worked on Hondas.
Check your distributor cap for any hairline cracks. Mine had the same problem, moisture kept getting into the dist. which would cause it not to spark. You should be able to pick a new Dist. cap up for about 15 bucks and install is easy. If u have any other questions email me at hondaboy0711@att.net
I had the same problem with my honda, what the problem is with your distributor, it only costs about 30.00 dollars and is very easy to replace. The problem stems from corriosion on the metal plate that rotates and sends the charge to corresponding spark plug, the cold causes condensation and hence the charge never gets to the spark plugs so then engine wont start. I replaced mine about two years ago and have never had the problem again.
Rattles near the back of the engine compartment at low to moderate exceleration when engine is cold and at low rpm. I drove car with mechanic, who heard the noise. Dealer retorqued bolts, etc. on day one, but couldn't replicate problem. Kept car overnight hoping to replicate noise when engine was cold - they couldn't do it. I started the car next day and drove it about 6-8 blocks when I stopped at a stoplight. Car made noise at acceleration from that point on. I called dealer and explained this to them, but they still don't know what to do. What could be the problem?
(92 accord, 146,000 mi)
Recently my oil light began to flash when car was stopped but in drive. Took it to shop to have oil pressure diagnosis and found small leak causing pressure to drop thus the reason for the blinking oil light...i think. Fixed problem, got car back, now car starts to stall but does not completely stall when stopped but in drive. IE: when at red light, car begins to stall and oil light dims and blinks lightly; car does not stall, seems like it wants to for a second, but it doesn't. Once i let go of the brake, the stalling felling stops. I question the possibility of needing a new oil pump and hoping this is the problem. Going to dealership tomorrow. just wanted to know if this happended to anyone else or if anyone had some advice/suggestions, i would appreciate it. Thank you
hi!
I am thinking about buying a Honda Passport and would like to get as much info as possible.
I am also considering the Nissan Pathfinder, Nissan Xtera, the Land Rover Freeland.
So, you know anything about any of these please help!
I own a Honda Passport, 1995 EX 4WD model. The Honda Passport is just a Isuzu Rodeo with a Honda name plate on it. It does not have the engine longivity of the Nissan and Real Honda Engines. Mine died at 174K with a bad rod bearing. I would suggest you get a Nissan or a Honda CRV so you get the engine reliability along with the name. Good luck.
Need a JDM B16 head for a poor man's typeR that I'm fully building I need no internals just A good runnig condition head. contact me at (626)488-4896 or at fcknballistic666@yahoo.com
Thank's,Erik
I recently put in a new clutch due to clutch chatter. After the work was done it stilled chattered, had the motor mounts checked out and the flywheel rebalanced. Everything checked good but it still chatters. Any advice on this from someone with the same experience would be helpful. Thank you Joris
I also have an '87 Legend and I'm currently having identical problems. My clutch began to chatter about 6 months ago. I took it in to have a new clutch put in a week ago. They did the whole clutch: disk, pressure plate, new flywheel, master & slave cylinders. Still chatters. In fact, I think its worse. They say its probably not the engine mounts because the tranny bolts solid to and is pretty much supported by the engine itself. I suspect it might be a leaky seal getting oil into the clutch. I've read that the most common source of clutch chatter is oil contamination. Check out www.lukclutch.com/support/diagnostics_chatter.phtml Do you have any other ideas?
was the fly wheel cut before the new clutch disk was installed. if the fly wheel has burn spots on it and they usually do it will contiue to chatter and the clutch disk will wear out prematurally
Sunrise Japanese is one of largest importer of Low Mileage JDM Motors. Directly from Japan with warranty!!! Contact @ 1800 233-1299
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Hey I was wondering if anybody knows the cure? Here are your details 2nd generation b16a in a crx with obd conversion. When I am driving regular sometimes my car will jerk one good time and the check engine light will come on I usually turn off the car and back on and it goes away but today I tried to get the code before it went away and it was either 46 47 or 48. Sometimes the car will hesistate or stutter until I give it some gas (I've heard of this one a few times but still no cure) Only one time while the car was warming up at idle it took a dip but it is usually when I am driving. One time when I was racing and today when I was driving regular the check engine light started flashing but no code. I turned off the car and it went away. All and any suggestions will be great help I will appreciate it.
I had a 88 crx and the same thing happend, to me ussually when the engine was cold..
If you got a rough idle at cold start, and some jerking during acceleration, it could be the 'oxygen sensor'. The sane thing hapens when a n "EGR valve" (the exhaust gas recirculator). The egr is a smog device.
I would buy the parts and do it yourself. the Oxy sensor might be harder to get to and harder to loosen. the EGR should be right on top..
I just purchased my first Honda and I bought it with a blowed motor at 124K miles. I purchased a used one and installed over the weekend. With the Auto tranny in park, the engine continously idles up and down between 1000-2500 RPM's...any suggestions...remember that I am new to Honda. The transmission indicator on the dash always flashes a circle around whatever gear the vehichle is in...is this normal???
im tired of people who think that got a mustang gtv6 and they think it fuckin smokes every car out there. i have a 95 v6 accord and it smoked a stang(so called MUSCEL) and im not talking about by a bumper length im talking about car lenghts ahead. MY car does QM in 8.3sec and ppl think that they cant do 6's thats bull shit and for that one buddys JO JO is liar the fastest civic went 195hp@20 of course they used alchol and striped the fuck out it
First off, it would be much appreciated if you read your post before posting. Second, if your car runs 8.3s, then obviously your going to blow the doors off a Stock 6 Mustang, and also, V6 mustangs are not GTs.
Just bought a brand new Accord EX 5sp automatic about 2 months ago. It now has 700miles. It now makes a "Tik tik tik" noise (like valve noise)once it warmed up. It's loud. Dealer said it's normal. Never had that problem with my 1991 Accord. Dealer said it's because of the superlight weight oil so the valve will make noise once it warms up. Dealer won't help, anyone tried using thicker oil?Thanks.
Should the idle in drive sound like the idle in neutral?
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I have automatic 1993 Honda Accord SE. Recently Ive noticed that when the car is in idle but in drive it sounds louder, noise coming from the engine bay, whereas when the car is in idle for neutral it sounds smooth and quiet.
Is this normal? What could be the causes for this?
Same thing when it is in park and running the engine sounds quieter than when in drive. Its not a pinging sound or anything but there is a noticable difference between the two. There is 100 K miles on Accord.
What are my options for having a Honda garage inspect this? Would it require me to pay for some computerized diagonostic check?
On a fuel injection motor on the passenger side of the car right above the air intake hose going in to the injection unit is a recessed standard scrw head. Turn it about a half turn at a time until the idle comes up to where you want it.
My Honda civic was working fine, until the check engine came on. The idle was up to 1500 RPM and not even going down. I checked the timing, everything seems fine. Does anyone have any advise. Thanks
89' CRX - wont start, makes weird alarm noise when trying to crank
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-knows nothing about cars- I need some help! i have a honda CRX 89- i try to start the car, when i do the engine tries to start but its making a loud weird alarm noise and i have no alarms on my car. help please?
if anyone has a 94-97 v6 hood they wanna sale, e-mail me, it can be a stock take off hood or carbon fiber, i really aint to picky at this point. but i cant find one anyewhere and the ones i can find are 500$ IT HAS TO BE A V6 HOOD though. thanks.
if anyone has a 94-97 v6 hood they wanna sale, e-mail me, it can be a stock take off hood or carbon fiber, i really aint to picky at this point. but i cant find one anyewhere and the ones i can find are 500$ IT HAS TO BE A V6 HOOD though. thanks.
The passenger headlight on my 98 accord doesn't work and neither do my day time running lights. Although, both high and low beam bulbs in that headlight do work. Sometimes, when I drive over a speedbump my daytime lights turn on and when they turn on then the right headlight also turns on. can anyone help me solve this problem?
I have a 97 accord ex and just ran into this problems, here is what i found on the net so far, if you have more info can you please reply. TKs
Subject: Defective Lighting
My automobile is an 1997 Honda Accord LX, with 87,000 Km. on the odometer. Recently I have
experienced an annoying intermittent lighting problem. When the car is first started, I have an
illuminated daytime running light (DRL) indicator lamp,and a dimly lit high beam indicator lamp.
When the parking brake is released these lamps are extinguished. According to the manual, this
is normal. Lately, however, upon release of the parking brake these lamps extinguish for about
one second and then light again. coincident with this, is a failure to light the right high beam. I
recently lifted the hood to examine the wiring insulation and connections at the lamp assemblies
during a failure. manipulation of the wiring at the lamp sockets had no effect on the failure. When
I dropped the hood to close up, the condition cleared. The dealer had a look at it and changed the
high beam lamp in question. They feel it is the Daytime running light control unit. The accord
manual I have has some pretty good circuit diagrams of the lighting system, but in the entire book
I can find no mention of the location of the control unit. I would like to check this a little further.
Can you tell me where to find this unit, and can you tell me if it's possible to find some detailed
data on the control unit. Thank you. My name and address are as follows.
Module Madness
You have entered the module zone, where many technicians get challenged! I believe you have
already had the correct diagnosis of a malfunctioning (DRL) Daytime Running Light module
(these are common to fail or malfunction), what you want to know is how can you find where it is
located and whether or not you can possibly repair it.
The location of the module is to the left side of the dash near the centre console (very close to the
gas pedal area), there is a cluster of 3 components: Shifter Interlock module, PGM-FI Main Relay
and Daytime Running Light module (if you have a manual transmission then there will also be a
starter cut relay as well), the DRL should have a 14 pin connector.
There is not any published information for repair of the module, once the diagnosis of a failed
module the factory procedure is to replace the module, if you have a background in electronics it
is possible to repair it using components from a place like Radio Shack, I will attach a copy of the
circuit wiring diagram and you can make the decision as to whether repairing or replacement
Craig
Techtips@owenautomotive.ca
I would like to replace the starter cut relay but the great directions in the owners manual do not give any indication of how to remove or what type of relay it is. The Honda dealers here are of no help. Do you have any good suggestions. Please reply to e-mail address.
Power window only goes down, not up - Acura Legend
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I have a strange problem with the left rear power window of my 91 Acura Legend Sedan. It only goes down, and will not go up. All the other windows work fine. I took apart the door and removed the motor. I hooked it to a 12v battery and it works fine in both directions.
Now here's the strange part: I checked the power connector to the motor with a volt meter and it showed +12 volts with the door switch activated up, and -12 volts with the door switch activated down. Ok, the motor should work fine, right? Well, when I hook the motor up, it only shows -12 volts with the switch down; when the switch is up, it reads 0 volts!
I don't believe it's a polarity issue with the motor, as I can reverse the leads and the motor runs, in the opposite direction, but again, only one way.
So, there must be some other electrical problem where the system will provide proper power with the switch down, and not up, BUT only when the motor is connected. Again, if no motor conntected, I get +12 and -12 correctly. There must be some sensor or relay that won't provide power under load or something. I'm stumped on this one!
From what i read of your problem, the motor works fine on the battery, only goes one way in the car, i think there is a problem with the window switch as you stated it was only passing voltage when it was working, but works fine if you switch the wires, just only one way, electrical you have proved the motor is fine, i suspect the switch is at fault.
Thanks for the response, Mike. What's odd is when I hook the volt meter to the power connector, I can flip the switch up and down and it reads the appropriate voltage (+12/-12), so that indicates to me that the switch is working, but when I hook up the motor, it reads zero volts when pressing up, like the electrical system is sensing a "load" and it cuts off. Odd stuff. Also, this problem is occuring with the rear door switch, the driver master switch does not operate the motor in either direction, totally dead. Is there some relay or something I'm missing?
Power Window Switch has similar problem with Accord
by Quesillo
It's the Power Window switch contacts. Open it and try to clean the contacts. Mine is already going really bad and need replacement. It works after cleaning the contacts for a while and still it needs replacement. I am looking for a parts dealer to buy one. I have an Accord 97 EX, 4 cylinder. VTEC. Hope this helps.
I rolled the windows down cuz i was farting a lot, all of a sudden no response when i try to roll it up. Now my window is completely open on drivers side. when i press the button for window to go down, the interior lights dim, that means it's working, but when i press it to go up it doesn't work and the interior lights don't dim. I'm gonna bring it to the dealer and i'll let u guys know what was wrong.
cold air intake with by pass
"strait pipe" with real apexi n1 exhaust (watchout for fake once)
it will give you gun shots from you exhaust
dc hearder (with the sensor)
computer speed chip
msd box (with 7 spark plugs)
optima battery (not deep cycle one)
grilled rotos
japanese SILVER radiator (it's away better than factory one)
upgrade all your hoes
upgrade ground wires
racing high flow cat (watchout for the fake ones)
i'm glad you not putting turbo on it cas it will brake your pistons often
just keep it factory style
the crankpully bolt on the integra comes off like any other bolt,(counter-clock)i belive there is a tool to hold the pulley,but never used one. Yes it is a pain to get that bolt off. What I do is just go to the local shop and have a guy use an impact gun/wrench to loosen and then tighten it back up. Make sure its a high pressure impact gun. If they cant doit, drive on to the next garage and find someone that has a tool powerfull enough to do the job.You need to leave the cover off and you should be able to reach the bolt with the tires turned to right. no need to lift the car off the ground, just drive up close to where the air wrench can reach. I ususally go to my local shop, and the mexicans are cool enough to do it for a few bucks. Ive done this on many occasions when I would replace a timing belt for friends on their hondas/acuras..
My Prelude sunroof isn´t working anymore. I bought the car couple of months ago, then it worked fine but not anymore. Is it a relay or motor. Where the relay is exactly situated? Thank you
The F20A is identical to the F22, but the internal bore and stroke is different. As far as bolt on parts, each motor uses exactly the same parts. I think because the F20 is the SOCH 2.0 motor, I think it can be tuned to rev higher because of the shorter stroke.
Hey all my honda motor gods I need some serious help in buying the right car. I have a 92 accord ex that I bought here in guam. It gets me around but its starting to die. The cost it would take to fix it is not much but check this out. I have a friend in japan that can send me the same year make and model for under a grand which is about the same as it would cost to fix my car. I like the way this sounds cause I would transfer everything from the jspec to the accord. I want to know what engine came in the 92 accord in japan. Is it the non vtec h22 I know that in 94 on they got the vtec but I just want to know more details of what I can expect if I get a 90-93 accord from japan. I can't drive the RHD here in guam cause it will be imported under parts only so I can't register it. Thanks for all the help.
hi, when i drive this car for about an hour the yellow engine light comes on.it seems to come on faster when idling or in start and stop traffic and slower when i have the heater on.the honda dealer couldn't find anything by running a diagnostic,but before they rip it apart i'd like to have an idea of what it could be. thanks ,Mike
My accord does the same thing, and I just recently switched out the motor with a oem replacement from a wrecked accord. I have been through the entire car and cant figure out why the lite comes on. The only thing I can suspect is vacuum as I have installed the AEM cold air intake, but I checked and double checked all lines it's all good. I have had several honda/acura cars and this one acts the same as all of the autos I've had, at red light it shakes a little more than a normal car, but to me all my honda's have done that, so about the lite I dont know, I just ignore mine as the accord is running fine.
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HONDA CIVIC (EG6) 1992
V-tec engine
mileage:135000Km
5F
Power steering
power Window
aluminum wheel
