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Full of sound and fury, pt. 2, with reflections on the old days

April 6 2012 at 3:33 AM

Stuart Milliken  (Login StuartMilliken)
HyperScale Forums
from IP address

I got my compressor repaired today and so was able to continue work on the Fury. I celebrated by spraying Alclad Aluminum on various parts.

This caused me to reflect (no pun intended) on my youth. I'm one of those guys who was an avid model builder up into high school, but then dropped it, and then re-discovered the hobby around when I turned 50. When I was a kid, any kind of silver finish meant a little square bottle of Testor's and a paint brush. It also meant brush marks, runs, not a few fingerprints, and much frustration. Now in my dotage I've discovered the airbrush and wonderful new products like Alclad. I don't intend this as bragging at all, but man, I'm still stunned when I think back on the mess I made as a kid, and then now come up with a finish like this:

[linked image]

I say it isn't bragging, because any credit is completely due Alclad. Doggies! I love this stuff!

Similarly, when I used to do a wooden propeller, it was generic brown out of a bottle. Now I read about all sorts of creative techniques, and very easily am able to do a wood grain effect with oils:

[linked image]

Again, no real skill on my part; just following other people's instructions and voila!

So I gotta say, I'm having a blast with almost every kit I start, trying out new materials and techniques unknown to me back in the day. Brings back the delight of being a kid--without the fingerprints.

Thanks for looking!


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Victor Scheuerman
(Login ffirefighter13)
HyperScale Forums

I hear you Stuart...

April 6 2012, 6:30 AM 

Sure is fun revisiting one of those old kits today with the knowledge, tools and experience to get a little more milage out of them happy.gif

Looks great so far.

Thanks for posting.

Cheers, Vic

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William De Coster
(Login eazyprinz)
HyperScale Forums

I have to get into Alclad too

April 6 2012, 2:15 PM 

Next show I will buy some bottles - promissed

That's a little nice project Stuart - the paint looks marvelous, and that prop even more - great work

Please be aware there is a discussion about the yellow - some argue it is supposed to be blue... so perhaps you have a choice

* * *
William De Coster / Belgium be.png / Plastic Stories

1/72 - Special Hobby - Bolton Paul Balliol T.2 : Part I - Part II - Part III/End new.gif
1/72 - Airfix/Jo-Han - Mitsubishi Zero/Rufe conversion: Part I

Just like the perfect woman doesn't exist, I will never build a perfect model.
Puts me on a par with God

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Barbara Lombardi
(Login Barbara_Lombardi)
HyperScale Forums

Wooden propeller

April 7 2012, 11:22 AM 

Please Stuart, can you explain the technique used to obtain the wooden finish?


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Stuart Milliken
(Login StuartMilliken)
HyperScale Forums

Hi Barbara!

April 7 2012, 4:12 PM 

Step 1: Clean up the propeller--which me took more time than all the other steps combined! (Flash, sink marks and mold lines.)

Step 2: Prime with your favorite primer. (Optional, I suppose, but I always do.) I use Mr. Surfacer 1200.

Step 3: Spray on any tan colored aqueous or alcohol-based paint (typically acrylic) and let it dry thoroughly. I used Gunze Aqueous "Sail Color". Tamiya "Buff" is good too. Do not use spirit or oil-based paints (typically enamels and lacquers), as the oils in the following step will attack them.

Step 4: Apply a small dab of a medium brown (I use "Burnt Sienna") artist oil paint straight from the tube to each blade, front and back, and brush it out evenly, covering the whole blade. Don't worry about the look of the "wood grain" effect yet.

Step 5: Place a few tiny dots of other colors of oils (I used "Red Ochre" and "Burnt Umber") on each blade. Then with a fairly stiff, wide brush, drag in one motion from hub to tip, creating streaks that resemble wood grain and different tones of wood color. You can repeat this motion a few times to adjust the streaks to how you like, but don't do it too much or you'll completely blend in the different colors. Take your time, the oils dry very slowly. If you don't like what you've done, just wipe it off and try again.

Step 6. Let dry several days. Seriously. Oils take a long time to dry (unless you add a drying agent, which I haven't tried), so don't touch for several days of dry weather.

Step 7. Spray a top coat of Tamiya "Clear Orange" or, in my case, "Clear Yellow" with a drop of "Clear Red". (Not yet done in the above picture.)

This is (at least for me) very fun and satisfying to do. Sure beats doing endless black blades with yellow tips!


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bob mack
(no login)

snj spray metal is great too

April 7 2012, 11:39 AM 

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