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Announcement: Forum is temporarily "moderated post only":
by
Due to some recent spam traffic, I've temporarily switched this forum over to moderated posting only. The spammers are using botnet sources, so I can't easily block IPs without also blocking a large number of legitimate users.
Hopefully after a few days or a week or two, the spammers will move somewhere else and we can go back to open posting again.
I have a mini cocker that I have not used in 2+ years that is in desperate need of a tune up and re time. Does anyone on the internet offer gun tune up services? Also, I need to get my nitro tank hydroed. Where can I get this done?
OWNED! - Online Camera and electronics store photos
by BLT
I was reading a story on BoingBoing.net ( http://www.boingboing.net/2008/05/05/camera-shop-offers-c.html#comments )about someone who was offered a $75 "bribe" to take back bad feedback regarding a deal from Amazon.com. In the comments, someone posted this website of pictures showing the storefronts of a whole bunch of internet camera and electronics stores in and around New York city. The list includes some past and present addresses and has some comments as to where and who they are (or were)
After hearing how shady some of those online stores are, and the bait and switch/upselling tactics they use, I wasn't totally surprised at the types of maildrops and ups stores they used!
I personally know someone who had ordered something from one of those types of stores, then was told it was out of stock, but they did have a "kit" version of the same item that came with a whole bunch of extra goodies, like rechargable batteries and a charger (that according to the manufacturer are supposed to come standard with the item). With some difficulty, my friend finally was able to cancel the whole order. By some strange "coincidence", shortly after that, their credit card number "stolen" and used to rack up a bunch of fraudulent charges. Go figure...
Video, Fast food represents countries at war, fun to watch.
by IDN
Pull the progress knob back a few times to let it load a bit, or it may play half and then stop. Then you might have to restart/ reopen you're browser and start over agine.
sprayed it/ put in plastic for a bit/ then cleaned it off.
BUT!
That junk (duct tape gunk) was on there like a second skin, Had to go over with a wire brush. Had to keep spraying a bit on once in a while while scrubbing lightly. I finished as the part off, but there s still kind of a slight stickyness to it left. Figure that will ware off in time and use.
When I worked at Target we used to get a dilutive degreaser called Spitfire. Man, I found out that if you let latex paint dry in a brush, soaking it for a day in undiluted Spitfire would take most of the paint out....
Seeing as how the coloring of the anodizing is essentially the same (or similar) to fabric dye, gotta watch what you use.
I cant believe that the mask frenzy with the stupid straps has stayed around this long. As long as a mask is comfy, keeps me protected and doesnt fog is all I want. I love my Vents, and that mask wont protect me any better than my Vents.
Has anybody ever made their own liquor and/or made rum?
by
I've been toying with the idea when I'm not in school or work, since I'm an avid rum fan I'd love to find a nice little home kit to try (if it's even out there)
Is there much of a difference between regular making bread yeast and brewing yeast?
Any advice would be great, email is the best way to respond.
Thanks!
blueberries in the bottom of a 5 gal bucket (about enough for 3-4 berries high) 1 1/2 cup of sugar and about 1-2 gal of water. let sit a month or so...if you let it set to long it will basically turn into brandy...
I've had a few Linux/Windows dual boots. With Win/Lin it's just a matter of installing Windows first (the prima dona), and then installing Linux. Linux has more than a couple of good boot loaders that can redirect the boot operation to the selected partition.
Catchya on the Flip Side.....
Emerald Wolf -- if you have enough computer, VMs work fairly well....
kinda...for my machine (an HP...got a good deal and didnt have time or money to build my own...again) my HD didn't have drivers for XP and HP refused to even admit they had them so...put in a 2nd HD and installed XP on that...just have to select the OS through BIOS
Like the title says. What my problem is is that when i try to watch youtube on my smartphone when i am connected to the internet from my PC or WiFi. It wont let me for some reason if anyone has had this problem can u please help me. Maybe there is an upgrade or something for the video player or the net i dont know. Thanks for the help in advance. P.S its not the connection or anything cause i can view any site i just cant watch any videos.
You might have to put the video on a desktop first then run it off your desktop (yeah, I know, that kinda takes away from the usefulness of the online capabilities of the phone) but there might be other workarounds for it. I know many people have been frustrated with not being able to view youtube on the portables...
Install a shortcut to Active Directory on your desktop?
by Jake
Does anyone know the name of the install file in the i386 folder of a Windows Server 2003 that allows you to install a shortcut to Active Directory onto your XP desktop?
I’ve done it before, but for the life of me can’t remember what the file was named. Tried searching the ‘net, but my Google-Fu is weak this morning.
It’s a handy tool, it allows you to launch and make changes to Active Directory straight from a XP desktop without having to actually remote into the server to run it.
Re: Install a shortcut to Active Directory on your desktop?
by TheElf
If you're talking the Admin tool pack, the installer file is called adminpak.msi and A copy can be found in the system32 folder on the server. This will install all the mmc addins and make shortcut in the Administrative Tools folder on XP.
This one is just plain annoying. Had to borrow Mom's Saturn while I do a head gasket job on my Rover. And her car, of course, has it's own "Service Engine Soon" light on. It's a '95 SL, OBD-I computer with the standard GM connector.
But here's the problem. It only comes on after driving for about 15 minutes. When I turn it off, the code clears, and I can't pull it out. All I get is the no-code blinky (1-2).
I am suspecting the O2 sensor, probably just going to replace it anyways. But is there a method I can use to pull the code without shutting the car down first?
Try swinging into a Discount Auto Parts or AutoZone when it happens and leave the engine running so the code doesnt clear. See if their OBD code reader will pick it up. Otherwise I suspect it will mean a trip to the stealership.
I know if you ground the diagnostic connect, it should flash the code at you.
Should be two terminals very close together, near the top right of the connector, I believe. Try connecting the two, and you should get flash codes - you can try it while the car is running, but it may not work - generally you need to have the engine off, ignition on.
Most of the time, the computer will store the codes, unless it's a very intermittent code, but that doesn't seem to be the case by your description.
While the car's running, reach under the top of the valve and manually pull the diaphragm up (or use a vacuum pump on the nipple on the top of the valve). If the car's idle stumbles or the engine dies, the passageways are fine, and you may have a bad valve OR apply solenoid.
If the solenoid's bad (and they're not that great of a solenoid) just bypass the solenoid and run a line directly to the EGR valve's vacuum port from the port on the throttle body.
If the car doesn't die and idles fine, you've got plugged EGR passageways in the intake manifold, and you're looking at some serious R&R work.
Oil pan gasket is bad, but I can't drop the oil pan, need a more 'creative' solution
by
So here's the situation. I have a '79 Ford E-250, 460 engine with rear sump oil pan, with the Quadravan 4x4 conversion (booya!). Now the oil pan gasket is shot. However, a frame cross member and a few parts of the 4x4 conversion make it impossible to drop the oil pan more than an inch or two. Since it's a van, lifting up the motor a bit is also impossible. I'd like to avoid pulling the motor out entirely (been there, done that, didn't enjoy the trip). So any ideas? I've pondered cutting the new gasket so I can get it around, but is it even possible to get it to seal once cut like that?
I'm assuming here that the problem you're having is the pan doesn't clear the studs completely when dropped the two inches you can move it.
You should be able to get away with some small cuts in the gasket. What I would try were I in you're shoes is get a gasket and then cut slits in each of stud hole from the outside in. This will leave a solid ring of material along the inside of the studs to seal. Then bend the gasket slightly, get it inside the pan and then pop each stud into it's hole thru the slit. If you can get it in place without tearing the material at all then the slits you cut should line right up again. Even so I would use a little high temp RTV on the slits just to make sure it holds togeather.
Most of that plan depends on a fairly stout and flexible gasket. If you get one of those crappy paper jobs then you're probably going to rip doing that. If all you can find are the cheap paper gaskets you may be out of luck and back to square one.
it's like a spray rubber sealant.. yo will actually seal the pan to the block from the outside.
the trick is to get things clean enough first.
Id start with a pressure washer or at least a trip to a self car wash.
a bit of scrubbing and brushing may be needed.
finish with a healthy dose of brake cleaner..
spray the sealer...
the oil pan shouldn't have pressure pushing oil out..
let the stuff dry before
I have used the stuff to fix a leaking valve cover that had a broken bolt.
and I also sealed a leaking intake manifold.. way cheaper and much easier than trying to get the pan out...
and pan gaskets are very hard to clean.. they stick to the block and the pan and will rip... also the front seal and the rear seal will probably fall apart if you try to drop the pan..
If you want to drop the pan.. I would suggest only dropping it about a 1/4 of an inch and using a rtv or silicone to fix the leak.
and dont remove the bolts just loosen them.. I think a few have to be removed..
I think I might try this one, and how does it and RTV work in the cold?
by
I was thinking of just scrubbing it down and pushing in some RTV, but this stuff looks like it will help too.
Unfortunatly, it's well, winter, and the truck won't fit in my garage.
And how well dos RTV and this spray sealer work in the cold? I'm without access to a heated garage at the moment. Though I could just suffer through pouring in a quart every other day til spring.
Re: Oil pan gasket is bad, but I can't drop the oil pan, need a more 'creative' solution
by Cougar20th
Ive done a pan gasket one a 90's ford van the real hard way. had the 6 in it. But anyway what I did was drop the pan some. cut & remove the old gasket or however it came off. Keep as much junk out of the pan as possible. Then I put the new gasket in and fished it around the oil pick up . got it to where it needed to be cleaned it, worked my way around using the pan bolts one by one to losely hold the gasket in place. and put it and the pan back up. It wasnt fun and I dont know if it lasted since the company got rid of that van a week or two later.
I replaced the hard drive on my laptop recently and did a completely clean install of XP SP2. The XP disk is the one that came from the manufacturer, has the key already imbedded so you don't have to enter it manually, I guess making it harder to mess up the entry, and this is the only computer that key is used on. Obviously, it has been activated before, the first time it was installed on this laptop. Has not been activated since. Well, until now.
I couldn't get it to activate via the internet. And I have been way busy with traveling for work, so it wasn't until the 30 day grace period was over and it forced me to address the issue that I did anything.
Tried again to activate via the internet, with no success.
I generated an installation ID, and used the phone method. The tech support guy couldn't get the installation ID to verify, so he had me generate a new one. The new one worked, he read me the activation code, I entered it, I hit next, and everything was great.
But. (There is ALWAYS a "but" when it comes to Microsoft), the next time I booted up the laptop, it threw a screen saying Windows needed to be activated. If I hit the OK button (which normally leads you to the choices of how to activate), it shows my desktop wallpaper, but then throws a message that says Windows has already been activated. When I hit OK on that, it forces a reboot.
Naturally, when it reboots, it throws up the "Windows needs to be activated" message again. Click OK, and the cycle continues. The software was activated after I called the tech for the activation key. I got into windows and was able to install other programs. It wasn't until I shut the laptop down and then booted it for the first time post activation that this happened.
Short of wiping everything and doing a full re-install, any tips?
I read about the trick with the wpa.dbl and wpa.bak files, but since I did not back these up prior to the install, so I'm guessing they're useless now since they're part of the OS that is having issues?
my Google Fu is horrible. I've spent the last hour trying to find a number to call, with no luck. Found plenty of pages stating how to find the number in XP, but since it won't let me into XP....
I have a brand new Change Time change machine for sale. I have pics, which can be seen here, http://charleston.craigslist.org/ele/579516896.html Asking $250 plus shipping. Paypal is the prefered method of payment, but other methods acceptable. Email me with any questions.
I can't even get Nero to install. It craps out about 3/4 of the way in. Same thing happens if I try to UNinstall it. Same thing happens when I use the Nero cleantool program.
I have Vista Ultimate, and was using the DVD Burning software included with it, but it works about half the time.
Any suggestions? I have a bunch of movies I need to burn off to send to my brother in Iraq and this is frustrating.
I have vista home basic on my new (cheap) laptop and would like to be able to watch movies on it. Windows media in Vista Basic doesn't come with a movie player! So I went out and bought an inexpensive copy of Nero8 essentials that I thought had a movie player in it, but now I'm not sure. I have also tried to install it but it is supposedly corrupt, so now I am in somewhat the same boat.
Does anyone have any cheap/free suggestions to watch DVDs on Vista Basic?
so, after Vantrepes response, I thought "I can't have been that stupid and screwed up putting a DVD into the machine...right?" on top of finding corroborating comments online...
So, I went and put another movie into the laptop and up pops a Compaq movie player to play the disk! It had never ever opened before. So the regular disk played right away. OK, so on that one I feel a bit stupid, but on further reflection, I think that I was actually trying to use my laptop to play movies that I had saved for playing over TCPMP (an my Axim pda) so I think the Divx Player is just the kind of thing I was looking for!
I would like to install a alarm with remote start on my minivan and my wifes tahoe.
I feel I can do the install my self with a friend who is a excellent auto mechanic. I am a electrician and wire all kinds of stuff.
so I dont want to spend over 100.00 on each kit.
and would like long range..
I really dont care much about the alarm side of things.. mostly just want remote start and door locks...
BUT I want a system that is reliable.. I have had to many past problems with alarms.. no one can ever seem to fix them once they start going haywire...
so
any advice? brands to avoid... brands to consider...
I bought a Mundial (cheapy but works) for $35 (that included shipping too). Paid a local installed $50 to put it in. THis was about 7 years ago and the thing still works as good as it did he called me to come pick the truck up after he installed it. Mine did not have a remote start but it did have an ignition kill in it. You can add remote starts to many of the systems out there if they do not already have that as an option.
Today was was working on getting my cassette deck hooked back up in my car (I'd disconnected it during a "find the short" session a few months ago). Anyway, after finding some instructions I learned that there are three wires involved with the power..
Yellow -- hooks to always hot pole
Red -- hooks to accessory pole (so it's off when the key is off)
Black -- Ground.
I thought this would be self explanitory until I hooked up the yellow and red and the radio came on. So the question that I post is whether the ground wire is just to provide a really good ground (and the radio grounds through the shell like the really old 1 wire radios) or is this a bad sign?
I gots me one of those too....It's funny to fire it up. It just vibrates until it's warmed up and slowly you'll hear crackling and then the station...Surprisingly the one I have actually sounds pretty good for being 50-55 years old....
Any Exchange Guru's here? I don't know a whole lot about it, and have hit a problem.
I'm trying to mount an information store and keep getting an error that has an ID no c1041724. Quick web search seems to define that error as the drive not having enough disk space to mount the information store.
I'm only running one drive, and there is 111G free on it, so space shouldn't be an issue.
Above and beyond whatever the issue is, does anyone know of any free tools I can use to extract info from an Exchange backup? It is a .bkf file. I just need to be able to get into the backup to grab a few specific emails.
....and I mean hardware problem. I've yet to check the connection, but for some reason I keep losing the cursor - or else the darn thing will move around, but the cursor doesn't follow. (And yes, I keep it clean; that's a given with an optical mouse.)
So tell me - why else would it be doing this, and is it possible that it's time for a replacement? (I do still have a Kennsington trackball that I think would go with this machine, so I'm not out of a mouse.)
Did you change the mousepad recently, or otherwise alter the surface that the mouse is being used on? Also, when you say that you keep it clean. Are you blowing it out with air? I've found that isn't always good enough, and sometimes I need to get in there with a q-tip and scrub the lenses.
When you say optical, I assume you mean optical without a ball. LED driven? Could be that the LED is starting to lose output and just doesn't have enough power to get a good enough reflection to track. Generally LED's don't fail, but instead they start to fade. Sometimes changing the mousepad will help, if the color on the current one doesn't get enough contrast.
...unresponsive. I thought of that too - the mousepad - and changed that. I'll check the connection to the CPU, and if that's okay..... eep. I really don't want to take this thing apart. Last time I did that, I had to find a geek to put it back together again. If it gets to me, I'll just dig the trackball out of storage and use that.
Problem is, I don't know how to fix it.... and I'm not sure if my friend DZ knows enough to fix it. (Servers, maybe, but a mouse?)
Any road - got the old optical one out (the one DZ had to put back together after I had taken it apart) and it seems to work fine. So I'm using that until I can find someone who knows how to fix the darn thing for less than it cost.
Damned surface mount stuff these days makes a simple solder-job a lot harder than it used to be. It also depends on which end needs to be re-done. The mouse-side probably wouldn't be too hard, but I've never replaced a USB connector, and I don't even know if you can get the bare connectors or not.
any one else have problems reaching mcarterbrown web site.
I keep getting server not found errors.
it's been happening to me for a while.
IT happens with firefox or with explorer.?????
I am poking my toe into the world of amateur gunsmithing and have promptly hit upon a machining question. It concerns Jeweling, specifically jeweling a rifle bolt. The how to is simple enough. I could build the jig and execute the process with little difficulty. The question in my mind is "Why?". What benefit (other than the cool appearance) is to be derive from milling this pattern into the surface of the bolt (or, for that matter, any other surface).
That's precisely why folk do such things - aesthetics. A lot of what my Dad makes on his lathe is unadorned simply because he chooses wood that is unique in itself and doesn't need a design to bring out its beauty.
BTW - you may want to head over to www.dover.com - they've got plenty of designs that are copyright-free just for this purpose.
Jeweling helps hold oil,same as leaving a light cross hatch on something when you're honing. That and it looks cool. Do you need it? Probably not, a light weight moly lube or something like slide glide would probably last longer and slick the action up better. But, it does look cool.
Link above, wayyyyyy down on the bottom, says this.....
"S Series
The PCM has the ability to calculate when the engine oil needs to be changed based on vehicle mileage, engine revolutions and engine coolant temperature, then bases the engine oil change interval within a window of 3000-6000 miles.
To reset the PCM oil life monitor, depress the oil life reset switch located in the underhood fuse box for five seconds with the ignition On."
Take the cover off of the fuse box under the hood - you'll see a little red button labeled Oil RST.
Turn the key on, hold the button down for 5 seconds (I usually hold it for 10), let go, and check to see if the Change Oil Light is flashing. If it is, turn the key, then turn it on again, and start the car - the light should go out in a few seconds.
Thanks, found it and done it. if I had been a little more aware I would have noticed that it said what to do right on the fuse box. Oh well thanks for the help though.
....I need advice on a "store" program. I need something that's easy to set up, easy to use, and easy to update. I plan on using it to sell my junque (a lot will be VHS movies) and eventually sell some things from my mom's store as well (esp. during the summer).
...you can't beat the simplicity of amazon or the sheer size of their customer base. their commission can be a tad high at times, but it's just so easy to sell on there.
I think that Hilary Clinton should be president because she cares about us and she wants to help us. For example, gun control, she plans to find away to get them off the street because that is how people getting them that are not suppose to have them or they are to young to have them. This is also a good way to reduce crime. Also she wants to reduce drug uses by having more programs in schools and other places. She also believed that if the parents keep their child busy like putting them in an after school program or some kind of sport that would keep them from getting in to trouble. She also cares about our environment she wants to try to get our children involved about keeping it clean.
If Hilary was to be come President I think thing would be different. If she does what she says she is going to do the United States would be a better place to live. There will be less violence in school; young people will try to stay away form drugs and parents will be more aware of their child and try to get them involved in some kind of activity. More people will be concerned about our environment and help keep it clean so it con last longer.
The reason I did not choose Obama was because when he was young he used drugs. Therefore he might not do much with trying to reduce
Im looking to drill & tap some holes in some alum, 1/8-27 npt. I know a "Q" bit should be used but could I get away with using a fractional bit? The only reason for asking is my local hardware stores dont carry & could care less about ordering them & I dont really wanna buy a single bit online & get screwed with the shipping.
need to be tapped fairly deep to get the fittings to screw in at all, and so 11/32 is usually just fine, if not better; you don't need to remove as much material with the tap.
So, managed to nab a Suzuki in nice condition cheap, except for the fact that once it's hot, it shuts off. At current, all signs point to a stator or reg/rec problem, but I'm looking for confirmation and hints at other causes.
Nice choice of bike, I picked up a 90 katana 750 this spring, put on 7000 miles this season and havent had a problem with it. I dont know much about the problem you described, if it isnt overheating, I'm not sure why it would be shutting off, some more information might help. Does the bike overheat, then shut off? Is it just when it warms up to normal operating temperature? Does it start right back up? Theres a site online that is specifically for the katanas http:// katriders .com/vb/ , and you might be able to get some info there, or try picking up a clymers manual for the bike.
I don't have it at home yet. Rough day, trying to get it home. Got to a rental place late, called my dad, his truck broke down on the way. Bah.
According to the guy, it's when it heats up to operating temp, it doesn't overheat (air-cooled; nothing to troubleshoot there) it just looses the zappy-zappy and dies.
I haven't managed to get it that far yet. Test drives today.
With no knowledge of bikes. I would check if the bike has a overheat protection circut in the electronics. Check the sensor in the circuit if there is one. Make sure its working and not tripping prematurely.
Where can I get a nice looking "check engine" and other lights?
by Hans
Looking to do a custom dash in my Land Rover. I have everything figured out except the obligatory warning lights.
I don't want it to look like I raided the local radio shack, and am trying to keep it looking fairly nice. But the factory panel has about 20 different indicators in it, only about 5 of which are wired up in ways I don't care for. I'd prefer to ditch the whole thing and do what I want.
But, I can't find any nice looking warning indicators out there. Just the generic cheap round lights, some with occasional markings on them, but none that say "Check Engine" or "Service Engine", both of which I need to keep it legal for OBD-I inspections.
Been very happy with it too, more switches than I have uses for right now.
But I'm looking to redo the gauges behind my steering wheel, and put in a more logical bank of idiot lights (I.E. want to eliminate the 2/3 of them now that don't do anything).
I'll figure out something. Can always make it up, have lot of ideas. Just wanted to try the easy route first.
Re: Where can I get a nice looking "check engine" and other lights?
by thomas
Would it be feasable to have the dash panel cut to say whatever you wanted and just mount your lights to the backside of the panel? Maybe a sign shop could engrave/route(?) the panel for you? I'm not sure how small they can make legible letters.
I'm in the process of buying a Sabre 1100 with Jardine FCs on it. I'm curious if any motor heads in here know of a good way to increase the strength of the clutch linkage pivot pin on these bad boys. The original weld marks look like crap, as it two spots of tac weld, and the previous owner's rework doesn't look much better. I'm loath to drill and tap the chrome exterior, which would be the best solution as far as I'm concerned, so I'm hoping someone may know a better way.
So I need a new laptop for my Dell E1505. It's been a decent machine but I have a ton of time on it from school, homework, studying powerpoints, general surfing and traveling around. My battery finally has given me the middle finger and only gets about 30minutes on a full charge.
Any good websites with deals? I checked Ebay and Dell, ebay just scares me because I don't know if I'm getting somebody elses problem and Dell didn't have anything that I could find (I didn't go too far into the website)
unfortunately 4-5 year old lap top batteries are expensive but 1-2 year old lap tops are cheap? ( supply demand i do not think so more demand for old than new)
they do have other cheaper batteries as well, though none of their batteries seem to be getting particularly high reviews from people who have bought them
I just filed to sue my old landlord over the security deposit
by
My main question is can cell phone txt messages be entered as evidence or further to show that the plaintiff has admited to oweing me the money?
Here is the whole story. I moved into this place I was just renting a room. The landlord is subletting the house from his Uncle. The security deposit was 600 bucks one month of rent. In the lease there was a clause stating I could break the lease with 30 days notice. I gave notice paid all of my rent I left the room exactly as I moved in. I did sign the lease for a year but moved out after 3 months due to going back to school and used the 30 day clause to break the lease. This guy really hasn't done anything right he said his Uncle holds the deposits so number 1 its not in a FDIC escrow account which is the law in delaware. Hes been really hard to get ahold of and always says hes been out of town. He did offer to pay me 100 now and the rest when he can get another person to move in this was in a txt message. Ive been nice and have been patient but this has been going on since 9/15/07 so today I filed a civil suit. Funny thing is I found out that he has 20 days to refund the deposit or it gets doubled. So I am suing for 1200 instead of 600. The only thing Im not sure about on my end is I still have the keys since every message I left said call me back so I can give you the keys when you give me the deposit. Not threatening to keep the keys or anything like that just saying meet at a mutually good time to swap both. What I think what happened is he is using each tenant's security deposit as his deposit to his Uncle which I think is highly illegal.
Things I have done:
Sent a certified letter asking for the security deposit back
Made countless calls to make arrangements for the deposit
Today finally had enough of it and filed suit
Im figuring if the txt message is admissable I have him hook line and sinker. So I am anxious to hear what everyone thinks my chances are with going back to school I really can't take a 600 buck hit right now. 600 will just about cover a semester's worth of books.
why need a txt message when then lease itself sinks him.unless you or him crossed out that part and signed next to it no to inforce the 30 day clause he stuck paying you back the deposit.so you dont get screwed paying for new lock send a register letter to him setting up a date that you meet at the local pd or have the pd there at the apt to turn the keys over to him.dont need him starting a fight or saying you never turned the keys in and you have to pay for a new lock.
I don't believe you would want to do that.
I was the head engineer at an aluminum extrusion plant in the U.S.
Consider this - Anodizing is a process where your material is etched in order to accept the anodic coating.
By etching your block, you are affectively removing material from every surface. This would effect the tolerance built in to every part of your block that would then require re-tooling, re-boring, etc.
You may want to consider stripping your block and contact PPG about any anodic application they may have.
What about powder coating? You can get reflective colors that mimic anodizing from your powder coater.
ALL aluminum block engines have a number of steel and iron parts in them. Of particular note would be the cylinder sleeves. Heads will also have steel valve guides in them as well. So those would all have to be pulled, which is not an easy thing to do in car engines.
That also leaves the question of if the alloy of the block can even be anodized at all.
However, there are some folks doing pretty funky stuff with powder-coating that looks very very similar.
can anyone recommend a good wav to mp3 converter? I only have about 7 or 8 files to convert so I don't mind if it's a shareware or limited trial version.
Driving normally, after braking i noticed that the brake stuck in the "lightly braking" position. While coasting at around 25MPH the car would slow down and come to a stop within about 800-1000 feet. I could use my left foot under the brake pedal to pry it up while driving (automatic trans) to alleviate the braking, but even doing this, I could not fully return the brake pedal. Brakes function normally, but seemed very sensitive, probably since the brake was already partially engaged. Nothing is caught on or rubbing on the brake pedal itself. When i stopped the car, I felt each wheel and I didn't notice a huge difference it temperature difference between the four wheels. The front wheels seemed slightly hotter than the back.
Preliminary research suggests:
Air in system (Bleed system)
Clog in system (flush system)
Maybe a bad ABS servo?
If the slides or the brake piston its self are wearing out it can cause the brake to stick. Ive seen some pretty nasty calipers stick and wear down the pads very quickly. If the pedal isnt spongy i wouldnt think that it would have air in the lines. Doubt it would be the ABS as you will have a light come on when something is detected wrong. So Im leaning towards the clog or a sticky caliper.
I would check both the master cylinder and the brake booster. Hopefully it's something stupid like a pedal return spring. Might check that your brake pads are in the holders like they are supposed to be. I'd replaced the pad on my wife's Ranger and one slipped out. It felt into a funny spot in the caliper rack, had a nice bend after being crushed on a non load bearing area by the piston.
