Read your posts in the weber adjustment thread, Can you give me the full low down on running a pinto on bike throttle bodies cus i would really love to do that. Wat ignition etc are you running? Where do i get the parts from? and wat do the insuranc companys say?

cheers

They're not actually throttle bodies but just
old fashioned carburettors. I've not had anything to do with T/B's but I'm under the impression that they operate along with a set of fuel injectors, the T/B's purpose being to regulate the airflow?
All that's needed is the carbs & manifold, a pushbike brake cable for the throttle cable (fits with a bit of fiddling & cutting the white plastic bulkhead bracket), a fuel pressure regulator (+ ideally a filter) I had a job to get mine running smoothly which turned out to be the maniflod not being flat so letting air in through the gasket faces but help from Boggs Bros sorted it.
Dipstick & tube might need bending a bit with dipstick end smoothed round. New crank breather arrangement, tapping off #4 manifold runner for brake servo (works fine on only one)
Will be fine with standard ignition & fuel pump - some use leccy bike fuel pump.

Cheers for the info its looking like a very effective way to get some goot throttle response

So where did you get your manifold or did you modify your exsisting one?

do you have any pictures that you could send me?

Your help is great cheers

heres some pics of mine, i run the standard fuel pump with a fuel pressure regulator from tweeks,

ignition system i run megajolt, but as already stated will run fine with the standard dissy, but u i think u cant use the vacum advance,

i modified my standard pinto throttle cable to opporate the carbs, used a solderless nipple to connect the cable to carbs, i have had to make a throttle return set up as the return spring fitted to the carbs was not strong nuff, but some people dont have to do this.

theres several ways to do manifold, make your own, buy one, modify somthing,


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short vid, taken with mobile fone so not briliant


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FUN IS NOT A STRAGHT LINE

http://s59.photobucket.com/albums/g288/thesake505/?action=view¤t=20062007014.flv

FUN IS NOT A STRAGHT LINE

Cheers for the pictures snake, just a few questions from them. I notice you have pickup pipes of some sort coming off the manifold? what are they used for? Where did you buy your manifold from? Where does the pipe for the brake servo connect onto?

I love how it looks thought top work there mate, whats the full spec of your engine? am guessing throttle response was greatly improved?

cheers

im quite liking this bike carb idea, not so much for the power or anything like that, it just looks like an interesting mod to do IE it doesnt look impossible to do and it makes the engine bay look pretty damn sweet. i was looking at R1 carbs on't ebay and they arnt too expensive, if i can get a fairly cheap inlet manifold i might go for it, new bike carb manifolds are like 250 on ebay though...bit to expensive

bike carbs are alot more accurate in they way they deliver fuel/air mix, so this means you have a bit more power, but also mean better fuel ecconomy cause its more efficent,

the small tubes on the under side are vacum take offs, originally i was going to join them up and connect them to the dissy but reaserch made me change my mind, one of the is needed for the brake servo vac pipe, the other 3 are blocked off

the guy that did my maifold has stoped trading, i paid the money cause its stainless, and the carbs are spaced to the head, meaning each inlet tube is the same length,

its fairly simple to do, but i would advise the megajolt route for ignition to get the best from the carbs,

my car isnt on the road yet, so only done quick trips around the block with the carbs, but it feels good, cant wait for the rr session to get set up properly,

spec of my engine is 1.6 pinto, with 2.0 cam, ported head, full cci exhaust, mj ignition system (soon to be modified mj set up), 36mm mikuni bike carbs and x4 k&n style filters)


snake

FUN IS NOT A STRAGHT LINE

i think me and craig could soon be the new members of the motor bike carb crew lol.

You've sold me by saying better fuel economy, specially with the price of fuel these days! I could look into making the manifold myself, i know some guys who know some guys lol i aint looking to spend too much on the manifold like.

how does this megajolt set up work? cus am looking to upgrade to electronic ignition next month to see if it will sort out some ignition faults, and if megajolt is the better way to go then id be up for it.But it sound expensive?

could a manifold be made by hacking off the carb end of the standard inlet manifold to leave you with 4 seperate pipes, then grind the pipes back unill they are fairly straight and level and then wack the carbs on the end?

I think I've heard of people doing that with DCOE manifolds, but not the DGAV manifold cos the pipes all curve together.

but there is the possibility of finding a manky old manifold and hack it up to do the job? rather than spending 270 on a stainless steel jobby on ebay?

Yeah i was thinking the same thing could cut down a manifold and mount the carbs on some silicon hose, the only thing would be is for the water ways in the head but then a DCOE manifold would have a bit for that yeah?

you really want straight runners, the dgav ones start curving straight from the head and the internal diameter isnt that big, youd be better off finding a 2nd hand deco one and using that. or make you own manifold- it doesnt have to be stainless steel, mild will do and just paint it.



"Understeer" is when you hit the fence with the front of the car.
"Oversteer" is when you hit the fence with the rear of the car.
"Horsepower" is how fast you hit the fence.
"Torque" is how far you take the fence with you.

You'll need four short lengths of flexi-hose to mount the carbs to the manifold runners, this is to reduce the amount of engine vibration that reaches the carbs which can cause fuel foaming.

All you need is a flat length of metal thick enough so it won't flex, giving a sound face to the head, then five bits of pipe welded to it in the right places at the right angles.
Bike carbs need mounting at their original bike angle to give the correct float chamber situation.
I also had to make a throttle return spring set-up.

my idea was to draw round an intake gasket marking out all the holes (on 1/4 inch or 1/2 inch) mild steel and then cutting it out and shaping it accordingly then welding pipe on to it, one thing will the pipes line up exactly with the 4 carbs if they match the ports on the head are the R1 carbs the same spacing? if you understand what i mean, and also what do you do about the water channel on the intake side of the head? (the square port pretty much directly under the carb) which is covered by the intake manifold...

bike carbs are alot tigher spaced, there are two ways of doing it, spacing the carbs to suit the head which is easy with a lathe, or have the tubes welded in place to fir the carbs! all bike carbs will be held in place with ruber mounts,

one thing i dissagree with is the angle the carbs can sit at, bike carbs will run at most angles, you can even have them as down draft carbs, just look at gallery 5 on bogg bros page!

http://www.boggbros.co.uk/gallery5.html

also look at there pics, you will see how u need twisted inlet runners/tubes to match the carbs, were as mine are spaced carbs, its up to you how you do it! theres not alot in it

FUN IS NOT A STRAGHT LINE

..all you need are four toilet roll tubes and a prit stick.

_________________________________________________________________________________

Jeeves: "If I may be so bold to warn you, sir, the speedometer is reading 85 miles to the hour. And the distinct smell of burning is precipitating into the cockpit."

Wooster: "Burning Jeeves? That's the hearty scent of hot oil and pounding pistons. Nothing--"

BANG

Jeeves: "I fear your prediction of arriving on time for the ten to six may now be null and void, sir."

*snig-ger*

but in my book a float floats on top of the fuel & my carbs have got floats in them. The float needle valves will work at an angle but too much and it will stick open (or closed.)
I don't know much about those Suzuki throttle bodies but they don't look to have float chambers.

my idea was to draw round an intake gasket marking out all the holes (on 1/4 inch or 1/2 inch) mild steel and then cutting it out and shaping it accordingly then welding pipe on to it, one thing will the pipes line up exactly with the 4 carbs if they match the ports on the head are the R1 carbs the same spacing? if you understand what i mean, and also what do you do about the water channel on the intake side of the head? (the square port pretty much directly under the carb) which is covered by the intake manifold...

...bolt them pretty much straight onto the inlet ports? All you need is enough manifold to put bolts through and secure it to the head... then just some gaskets on the ends of the carbs :]

Wouldn't that work? See what I mean? Who needs tubes.

_________________________________________________________________________________

Jeeves: "If I may be so bold to warn you, sir, the speedometer is reading 85 miles to the hour. And the distinct smell of burning is precipitating into the cockpit."

Wooster: "Burning Jeeves? That's the hearty scent of hot oil and pounding pistons. Nothing--"

BANG

Jeeves: "I fear your prediction of arriving on time for the ten to six may now be null and void, sir."

the length of the tubes give the engine different qualities, ie long tubes will give more torque and smaller tubes will give more RPM or something like that.

Just wondering how i would go about doing this conversion too? I was goin to be upgrading to electronic igniton within the next month but i dont want to buy something that becomes useless when i put the bike carbs on.

So How do i go about colecting parts for MJ ignition or is there another route i can take?

cheers

I've just scrapped my sister's old 'L' plate 1.1 Fiesta and taken all the EDIS bits off it. Other bits needed are a trigger wheel, see t/wdotcom, and the megajolly box from autosportlabs.net or off ebay etc.
Bike carbs will run fine with points & condenser or leccy dizzy but you won't have a supply for the vacuum advance. A mappable system gives you options for throttle position sensor which some bike carbs have, along with the facility to adjust the timing advance figures & set a rev limit etc.

im going to make a manifold at work next week hopefully, if you could give me any details on pipe diameters, wall thickness and angles you used it would be great, also why did you find it not a good idea to link vaccum outlets on your manifold and use them for the vaccum advance?

balencing proper, also manyfold i would get your carbs first so u know what your lining up to,

FUN IS NOT A STRAGHT LINE

My manifold came with the carbs and was made to fit the original fitment carb spacings which saves having the carbs split & spaced. There's probably an extra BHP in having them spaced like Snakes but you might be better getting your carbs first, then making the mf to suit.
Angle - I don't have a protractor handy so your guess is as good as mine but enough to let it all fit together. If mine was much higher then it would cramp the throttle cable under the bonnet needing a tight bend from the carb end adjuster.
Pipe diameter is 42mm
Wall thickness is thin - head inlet ports will need matching to manifold along with correct gasket.
It works fine on just the one vaccum take-off for the servo from #4 runner - size as per existing servo pipe.
Coolant take-off as per hose size angled downwards, this connects to the heater pipe & mine runs behind the block for neatness.
Mine has a stub pipe on top of each for NOS injector fitting but that would kill the old engine & I'm not fussed about it anyhow.







Crank breather is similar to Glyn's, it sticks up between #3 and #4

holes can be use for carb balencer gauges cant they??

FUN IS NOT A STRAGHT LINE

They can but most garages/tuners will probably have the little gizmo that you stuff into the carb inlet, air flow meter or whatever. Much quicker & easier than prizing the plastic cover off & unscrewing the blanking screw.

ok ive been talking to a few people and ive got a few questions, why did you not link up the remaining 3 vaccum take offs for and link it to the dizzy for vaccum advance? and did you get round the jetting of the carbs?

From what i understand is that if you took a pick up of each inlet pipe then it would only pick up the pulse of the closes cylinder? i think i aint 100% sure on that so someone else will step in if i am wrong.

Are you going to be using mikuni carbs? The guys on locostbuilders.co.uk have suggested using ZX9R carbs, whats you guys thoughts on that?

From what i understand is that if you took a pick up of each inlet pipe then it would only pick up the pulse of the closes cylinder? i think i aint 100% sure on that so someone else will step in if i am wrong.

Are you going to be using mikuni carbs? The guys on locostbuilders.co.uk have suggested using ZX9R carbs, whats you guys thoughts on that?

I just ran the dizzy without any vacuum pipe connected until Mr Bogg snr. had got everything working (he's old-school) then unplugged the coil & put the fuse back in the megajolly supply. I'm still not running any MAP or TPS advance on that yet as I haven't got round to getting a plug to fit the TPS. Goes well with just the programmed curve.
I spent ages fiddling with jets, drilling, swapping etc. then found out there was a leak on the inlet manifold
poisoned mesen a couple of times aswell, you don't want that!

when you finally got it up and running, what work did you have to do on the jets? could you find a set that worked easily or did you have to do some witchcraft?

It will probably run on anything between say 135's and 180's depending on where the needles are set but the bike spec 155's or whatever are fitted should be near enough to run it to a tuner or even just the local mot guy's gas analyser to check for a decent mixture.
If you fit them and it starts & sounds reasonable it won't be far out as long as you're not revving the socks off it or going long distance to tune it. I got a ? ? (thingy to screw in the plug hole hometune jobbie) but it just flashed blue & I wasn't confident with it.
When you get some, unscrew the floatbowl from underneath one - careful not to round the screws off, they can be tight. The long brass hex in the middle will hold the main jet. Size is marked on the side of each jet in tiny numbers, 155 = 1.55mm