Hello again, well once again i have another question regardiny my 63 t-bird and the rebuilt 390. The draft tube, i believe is hooked up correctly to the spacer port under carb, but im wondering if there is supposed to be a filter within the intake next to this draft tube and if so i have a PROBLEM, because i didnt put a filter in.
Also, is my hook up correct to spacer plate? i want to keep the car looking original especially would love to keep my non pcv THUNDERBIRD valve covers on it. If anyone can give me some feedback on the formentioned, it would be truly appreciated. Lastly if it does need a filter, will i have to take the intake off? Jeez i hope not, i was gonna leter rip this weekend, but dont wanna blow a seal or whatever!
Mine is on the very back of the intake next to firewall. Is it necessary to have this filter (wire mesh) what would happen without it. Very curious!
In your pics, mine is different, mine is at the back of the intake next to firewall!
A recent pic i had seen showed the hook up from draft tube to spacer plate right underneath carburetor. Carb is a 2100 with a 3/8 or 1/2 port in the back above spacer plate that this draft tube hose is connected to, but i capped that off. Unless im missing something.
This message has been edited by clutchster on Apr 13, 2006 3:31 PM
A road draft tube on a stock 1963 352/390 with cast iron intake manifold is basically an open ended tube that mounts to a port at the back of the intake manifold parallel with the firewall. The open tube end points down to the underside of the car where road draft (hence the name) creates a low pressure area that helps draw the crankcase gases out. A road draft tube is only effective at speed. It is almost worthless at idle/standing still. A road draft tube DOES NOT connect to the manifold vacuum port on the carb spacer.
A PCV valve for a stock 352/390 of the same vintage mounts in the same location via an adaptor that plugs into the port in the back of the intake manifold. The PCV valve attaches to the adaptor then a rubber hose attaches to the other end of the PCV valve and connects it to the manifold vacuum port on the carb spacer.
The setup in the photo in this thread is for factory aluminum intakes used on 427s and maybe late 406s as well as most aftermarket aluminum intakes.
Are you using PCV valve? A "draft tube" is a specific part(-6758-)that is approx. 30" long and presses or bolts onto the rear of the intake manifold to vent crankcase vapors to the atmosphere. It does not connect to the carburetor or spacer at its discharge end. If you are running a hose from a fitting at the rear of the intake manifold to your carb spacer, there must be a PCV valve in line to control the vacuum. I think the correct arrangement on a T-bird engine was as follows: 1.Fitting at rear of intake. 2.Rubber tubing. 3.PCV valve. 4.Steel tubing running forward, bent approx. 90 degrees toward #5 intake runner. 5.90 degree female flair adapter to male pipe thread into tapped boss in the #5 intake runner. You can keep your stock rocker covers and use a vented oil filler cap. This system was used on T-birds built for California delivery beginning in 1961 and then became standard later. I don't really know when it was mandated for all states. The breather/oil filler and PCV valve was moved to the rocker covers in 1965.
Ok guys, me being a rookie with this thing has finally caught up to what u all are saying. Yes i connected a u shaped pipe fitting to the draft tube with a pcv and hoses. Im so sorry i didnt indicate that. It sounds like my hook up may be correct. Me not knowing thought all of the draft tube hook ups were similar if not the same, but ive learned something new. So since i have the u shaped pipe with pcv and hoses am i now correct? Also what about this filter, must i have it?
Thanks, So much a Rookie. lol
This message has been edited by clutchster on Apr 13, 2006 4:02 PM
On a 63 T-bird with the factory cast manifold there is a oil separator, wire mesh, held in by the oil baffle on the underside of the manifold. If it's not there you will suck oil. A Stainless Steel Brillo pad makes a good replacement. You have to have the manifold off and upside down to see it.