I don't believe this is a FORD cam but is for an FE. Lift with 1.73 looks like about .500/.515. The only numbers stamped in the end of the cam are a 107R with a little A just under the 1 in 107R. There are some cast in numbers near the last jnl. But I understand that these are just core numbers??? EP-19 and CWC (Clock Wise Cam)???
I posted just a few days ago about the same cam. No replies. CWC is the maker of the cam core itself. A little more investigation after my post got me thinking this is an Edelbrock Performer cam ground by Melling/Speed Pro. Cannot confirm that, though.
The motor this came out of did have a performer on it but Edelbrock's 2 cams listed for their intakes are .460/.480 and .480/.495 lift. But the cam did have about .008" out of round on the center jnl. when I put it on the V-blocks. My brand new Melling that I WAS going to run has .016" out of round. My Comp 292 has .012". All were "high" on the same side where the pin goes into the timeing gear. The only one that measured straight (.001") was the Crane Energizer 266. Guess I have to take my v-block and runout gauge with me to buy another cam....WTF.
Well, I guess this is still up in the air, maybe. There was a local selling this cam new with lifters, but he didn't have the original box and had no clue what it was. Oh well.
BTW, now that you mentioned it, does anybody sell those cam shaft v-blocks, or is it something one has to make up himself? Can a cam be straightened on a press?
Tim at Isky Cams showed us the process and it's pretty simple, a tap with a hammer while the thing is on pivots on each end with a dial indicator that reads .0001's
The process I have heard of to sraighten out a bent cam is to lay it on a flat surface and take a cold chisel and hammer to the space between the lobes and jounals. The idea is to dent the short or low side, wait a few minutes and let the stress created staighten out the cam. But why would this need to be done to new cams? And like Winr1 is saying I am scared the cam would break later on. I am thinking it is like rock, glass or even sheet metal, once you "score" it, then it is ready to break. Bart, did you have good service with your straightened cam? Otherwise, I guess I will keep buying cams and sending them back untill the crooked monster quits messin with me. V-blocks I built are stable to about .001", below that the Lowe's built set-up here is unstable (see pic. angle joist brace is on both sides of the upright.
This message has been edited by TORKTEK on Nov 7, 2009 11:37 PM
Tim Iskenderian showed us a guy doing a cam like that. Very light taps and that's how the process works. Not enough of a mark to weaken it. He says many new cams are bent and need fixing.
We mainly went there to see Ed's big pile of stuff but the tour was interesting seeing cams that come in 3/4 finished and need only a small grind to make them as well as ones that are a raw round billet that are needed for bigger bearing sizes, swapped firing orders or moved lifters and take a huge amount of grinding. Roller lifters are all hand assembled too.
I have noticed that some cams fit some blocks much easier than others, just did not know out of round was that common with the cam. Live and learn (hopefully). I guess I'll try it on a scrap cam first and see what's up. Thanks for the info.
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