I am running twin spal fans, a/c, electric fuel pump and helagon headlights with a 100 amp power master. I do not have a big high draw sound system. The 100 amp works just fine but I would probably go a little bigger if I was doing it over. I am also running dual v belts pulleys, anything over about 95 amps needs a dual belt or a serpintine belt set up.
.......I'm going to build a 200 AMP unit from a Large case 1G Ford alt.
75-85 amps at idle.
I can build more if anyone wants one
Ford Galaxie Club of America member #3350
1966 Galaxie 500 Convertible built in Chicago Illinois, will have a hipo 390, 780CFM 3310 holley, trick C6, Crites Aluminum radiator, California rear floor pan, and a rust free frame from the south. Work continues.
After reading some advice here on the forum I switched my drag car to a stock Ford 130 amp 3G I got from a good local rebuilder and have been very happy. They helped me get a version with the same bolt spacing as stock FE. I believe the 130 amp might have a bit longer case than the 95 amp, but I was able to shorten my spacer and the pulley lined up ( alternator is a little closer to the engine block ) I agree with the others, a dual pulley or a larger pulley will probably be needed along with a good belt, I found a NAPA belt worked better than some others.
I went from a 70 amp to a 105 amp PAPerformance setup. Easy to install. Works great. You need to be 100% sure on 3 things
Charging cable from Alt output to battery or starter soleniod needs to have a maxie fuse in the current.125 amp is fine
They have a orginial looking external voltage regulator that clips into the oem wiring harness> you will need to cut 2 wires or plug in a jump connector.
THIS IS MOST IMPORTANT, if all the power goes through your amp gauge in the dash and you are running the oem harness, DON'T!!! the insolators in the dash are dry and brittle. You could with running up to 100 amps through this dash melt them and the harness. The whole car goes up. I have SEEN THIS with a 140 amp on a amp gauge in the car. Remove the 2 main wires from dash gauge and goto a voltage gauge under the dash. Connect the 2 power harness wires togeather and solder and seal them in rap.
My system works great, 55 amps at idle going to 70 on the track. Have 3 coolant fans, MSD system, FI ecu, 3 blower fans, and 2 fuel pumps. The battery is also getting a good charge too.
P.A Per also has a good tech line for help and stand behind their products with no questions about warrantity. Rick L.
A Ford 3G from a mid 90's windstar/taurus, etc is what I used on my galaxie and on my truck. Galaxie has a couple of stereo amps, MSD, etc and it keeps up perfectly. It fits on stock brackets and wiring is 'two wire'.
The puny OE wires' circuits should already be protected by fuses rated....................
August 6 2011, 6:49 AM
...........for their load. Any additional circuits, those demanding more amperage, will also need circuit protection rated for the size of the wire, which in turn is sized according to what the new, additional devices will draw amperage-wise, Rod.
Re: The puny OE wires' circuits should already be protected by fuses rated....................
August 6 2011, 7:28 AM
I dig all that, but to tax a 125A fuse your drawing some serious current, if your pos. cable chaffed to ground that's a whole different story though. I'm concerned because I have a 130a on my 70 cougar, nothing extra beyond the factory accys, all factory wiring, I just ran the pos. off alt cable to battery with a cable, no fuse, just the existing factory feed wire.