Probably a stupid question, but what is the best way to seal an oil pan with a windage tray? I put two pan gaskets on, one above the tray and one below, along with a thin layer of RTV on all sides.
My oil pan is leaking at the very rear. I've retorqued the bolts and it's still leaking quite a bit. I'm going to take it off and re-do it. I'm just wondering what the best way is. Maybe just use one oil pan gasket and use RTV? If so would you put the gasket between the windage tray and the pan? And use RTV between the windage tray and the block?
IMO, you're making a common mistake retorquing a used......................
August 10 2011, 5:14 PM
...............oil pan to fix a leak (many do this on used valve covers as well). You must check and straighten the oil pan rails for being straight/true. Over the years previous owners may have overtorqued and distorted the rails and now you're tightening them even more to fix a leak. Remove pan and lay it upside down (cleaned of oil of course) on a flat surface, like a marble countertop or plate glass and look for distortion. I use two gaskets to sandwich the tray (I glue nothing to block or head surfaces), Rod.
LOL at Rods mentioning the "on a flat surface, like a marble countertop or plate glass
August 10 2011, 5:55 PM
and look for distortion." Years ago I had to provide an
auxiliary HEPA Filtration package to a contractor so they could hook up a trailer mounted HVAC package and furnish air to the Navy's Instrumentation Shop while they replaced the shops old HVAC system with a new one.
In that shop was pair of Pool Table sized granite Starrett tables that each looked to be well over a foot thick.. In an Eddie Haskell sort of way I pictured a moron bringing a cylinder head in and tossing it on the table..I can't even begin to imagine what had to be the cost to Uncle Sam of just one of those tables?
How big do you want?
I have a 2' x 3' plate black granite. Big enough for a FE engine block.
It's only 1 1/2" approx thick but it does all the rough work I've ever done.
I had it made in a counter top shop. 2 guys can pick it up and move it around. lol
I use as coffee table most of the time.
The higher the certification the more they cost.
Mine was made during the test on the machine that polishes the stone.
I was fixing the machine and took the stone home with me.
I have a few Canton trays here, none have the relief in the rear that is needed. I used a plasma cutter and then file to cut out the last one I installed. I like the Fel-Pro black composite pan gasket, and use a little smear of my secret sealer on both sides of each gasket. No leaks on the last one I did.
Could be the side seals, or the cap parting line (use a little sealer there too), or the rear main seal also. One other area would be the rear galley plugs. I am sure you have looked at the rear china wall and the valve covers, sometimes oil will "walk" around and come down in the back.....
68 Cougar XR7 street and strip car, 428 4-speed, 3560# of fun, best firstname.lastname@example.org email@example.com 1.44 60 ft
I just went through this and having done it many times before the same way, I made a change and I like my final method:
First, I glue a gasket to each side of the windage tray with Permatex Aviation Sealant or Indian Head Shellac (same as mentioned earlier). I use 3 clothes-pegs between each of the 20 holes to hold the gaskets down and let it dry overnight.
At one time I just used more of the same sealant for the next step; installation. Coat each side of the windage pan with gaskets already glued down with the same sealant, but last time I tried The Right Stuff.
The good news is no leaks. Now for the bad news. The Right Stuff starts to set up quite quickly, and when working under the car it takes a fair amount of time to get the pan on. You have to work quickly.
I ran about a 1/8" bead along the center of the surface of the top gasket already glued to the windage tray and put it in place. Where the windage tray goes up against the rear main bearing cap, I ran the bead closer to the outer edge of the gasket. I also ran the bead in a complete circle around each bolt hole. For a temporary measure, I used two pan bolts to hold it on while I ran a bead around the pan lip back at the workbench.
I ran about a 1/8 bead along the center of the pan flange. I also ran the bead in a complete circle around each bolt hole on the pan. This was a fairly heavy winged pan (Aviad) so I held it in place using a scissor jack. It was difficult trying to be speedy getting the first two bolts in (diagonally apart), but then it went faster.
Just work at getting them all started a few turns until they are all started. Then start tightening them up.
I made them all very snug and didn't re-torque. So far, so good.
I have no doubt it will be a pain to remove with The Right Stuff, but it was last time when all I used was the Permatex. Basically the gasket tears itself apart leaving material on each surface. But once the parts are off, it's not terribly difficult to clean everything up. I'm not sure if cleaning off The Right Stuff will be much more difficult. Probably not.
...I use 2 cork gaskets, no sealant, and no leaks. Ford used to supply thinner than normal cork gaskets for the windage tray. I use studs to aid alignment (because I don't use glue/sealant), and locknuts. I don't use studs (use bolts) at the front timing cover, in case I need to remove it and leave the pan on.
RTV is not your friend when used with a cork pan gasket (s).
August 11 2011, 8:40 AM
My procedure is to "3M" one cork gasket to the block, "3M" the other to the windage tray, install dry, torgue to specs they seal just fine. Just a little RTV @ the front cover/block split and a little @ the rear main to block split is all you need. The RTV will not allow the cork to properly take a "set" and in some cases the identations in the pan surface will trap RTV and when torqued it will hydraulic/split the cork. RTV, or mechanic in tube is not your friend. Are you sure the leak is originating from the pan gasket?