I tried the roller bearing route with my TKO600 swap and never felt super confident about it. Seemed various bearings were "sorta" close to workign right, others bottomed the input splines because they were just a wee bit too tall. Fast forward and I'm running the regular BH50 bronze unit with a arguably finicky TKO and it shifts like a dream. Given my own experience, I'd say spend more time or $$ on aligning the bellhousing as good as you can and use a regular pilot bushing.
I know what bearing to use, no... all Ford's are not the same size. If you are using a cintered iron disc for drag racing....I think you are planning to Eric, then you do want a roller bearing. The bronze bushing will get eaten up by the clutch dust in no time. On a daily driver with a rag disc, then yes... use a bushing instead.
One thing worth noting is the bearing is not a tight fit in the crank, I have never had one come out but a few others have. I have had them come out when pulling the trans but not while running. I use green loctite now just in case.
The roller bearing to use is actually a metric bearing, the size is 41x17mm (I believe...) and the part number is 6303 they make all kinds of bearings this size and some are sealed and others are not, some use rubber seals and others are metal, some are sealed on one side others on both sides.....
The two boxes I have here that I have used are labeled as follows...
6303-2NSE that is a Nachi bearing
6303-VVC3E that is a NSK
They all use different codes for what material and seals etc. a common code would be 2rs for interchange.
I just went to a local bearing supply house, was around 8 bucks or so, they are available on EBAY as well....
with double seals ... lol , they could find it with the number , but not by application ...
thanks everybody that posted.... I think SSdynasor is right about alternator bearing too , must be why Napa had one cause it don't come up for pilot bearing on anything , but the number was dead on with NSG number
When I first switched my 428 powered Fairmont over from a C6 to the Jerico/McLeod Soft lok setup, I initially used a stock type bronze pilot bushing. After that didn`t last very long, I talked to a few FE Stick Stocker racers, who turned me onto the "alternator" ball bearing, as well as a factory Ford roller bearing estup. I don`t have the Ford P/N handy, but I believe that it was for a Ranger application. This Ford bearing used the smaller OD roller bearing, like a 5.0 Mustang unit, but it was mounted inside of a metal bushing that has the same OD as a FE. The roller bearing would likely be a bit more tolerant of any minor mis-alignment issues, but I think the ball bearing is a better choice, assuming alignment is good. With the ball bearing, I put a light smear of white lithium grease on the input shaft tip, as it is now fitting into a hardened steel bearing race, rather than a lubed roller or bronze bushing. I also put a bit of Loctite on the OD of the ball bearing, as I have had an "alternator" bearing walk out of the crank, with expensive results.
428 powered Fairmont drag car, Best ET:firstname.lastname@example.orgMPH, best 60 ft: 1.29
59 Meteor 2 dr. sedan 332, Ford O Matic
74 F350 ramp truck 390 4speed
Curiously, it is the same bearing that GM has used in their alternators for years. As a caution, the only failures that I'm personally aware of occurred with bearings of suspect "Asian" origin. The NSK brand have been very reliable.